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The PVM-2730QM thread (H-STAT issue, colour bleed, convergence and more!)

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  • #16
    Something you should be aware of is that 'most' professional service technicians hated Sony monitors above all else and with VERY good reason.

    They were usually over complicated, exceptionally difficult to pull apart and even more difficult to fault find.

    I actually can't recall when I ever repaired one to my satisfaction and at a profit.

    It would pay to remember that.

    I certainly admire your persistence but it really belongs here............

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    • #17
      Hahah, thanks for the support

      I'm not nearly done yet. And If I can't fix it, it'll sit around for spares for the other unit.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Homepin View Post
        Something you should be aware of is that 'most' professional service technicians hated Sony monitors above all else and with VERY good reason.

        They were usually over complicated, exceptionally difficult to pull apart and even more difficult to fault find.

        I actually can't recall when I ever repaired one to my satisfaction and at a profit.

        It would pay to remember that.

        I certainly admire your persistence but it really belongs here............

        [ATTACH=CONFIG]95102[/ATTACH]
        I tend to agree with it all up to that last bit.

        But yeah, i never went past the 1001-QM before i moved to the considerably more reliable NECs. There were some Sony products that they shouldve supported better but did not. The G90 was one, suffered a reasonably terminal failure on the YA board.
        •Converting Game Gears and Atari LYNX with McWill screens and Gameboy Pocket with backlight and Bivert mods
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        • #19
          Alrighty then, I've swapped the HVR block in the faulty set with the one in the working set, and vice versa. Knowing how to disconnect the flyback lead was a huge help, and struggling through the anode cap removal (the hieroglyphs for which on the back of the rubber cup now make total sense) wasn't toooo painful, though it covered me in ancient black dielectric grease.

          Now the previously working set has the same fault, same drift in the overvoltage lines, right down to the massive red smear when powering back up. (I've figured out how to cheat the overvoltage lines just slightly for testing, though i think it only works due to the fault. It does work the same way on both sets though.)

          The faulty set now works perfectly, and the measurement across the overvoltage lines, when inputting the set with the same static image from the same video source, is perfectly stable and identical to how it was in the fully working set to within 10mV.

          I'm getting corona out of both sets now, but nothing huge, and it's maybe to be expected given the age of everything? I'll have to clean all the bits, re-seat the plugs and the anode caps using some spark-plug grease. I realise I still haven't proved for sure beyond all doubt with 100% certainty that the flyback in the once-faulty set isn't faulty itself, and that it won't destroy the working HVR block in a matter of hours/days. Would the corona be an indication of that? Do I need an HV probe to be sure? If I had to guess, I'd say the fact the measured voltage across the working block is identical in both sets means they're operating the same, and are thus likely to be within normal range. Thoughts?

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          • #20
            Corona is a shit beer and you should switch to Coopers...

            You need to clean the HV lines with isopropyl alcohol, and be sures it is completely dry before reassembly. Clean the anode cap as well, and either use neutral cure silicone ( apply a ring of it on the tube bell around the anode so that the rubber cap will be sealed on near the outer edge, not alot is needed ) and allow at least 96hrs for cure before turning on the set, or use a suitable dielectric grease.

            The silicone is not required on a direct view set as the HV isnt that high, on projection tubes it is 34.5kV in most cases.

            It will be arcing because all that black shit is somewhat conductive, and by removing the anode leads you have disturbed it enough that the dielectric grease is likely contaminated.

            You should really have something there, because i think these sets are pushing closer to 25kV on their HV.

            Dont keep running the sets while theyre arcing, youll just f*** up the leads and put undue load on the HV tranny.

            - - - Updated - - -

            Here is what it should look a bit like if you use silicone:



            Its an overkill for this, but its never going to leak HV. That tube is a Panasonic P19LUG projection tube.
            •Converting Game Gears and Atari LYNX with McWill screens and Gameboy Pocket with backlight and Bivert mods
            •Sega Saturn, Dreamcast and Mega CD region free BIOS install and power supply repairs, NEO•GEO UniBIOS install, 3DO RGB and 240p mods, DIY kits available for all.
            • CPS2 and NEO•GEO game repairs and conversions

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            • #21
              Cheers for the help and advice! The anode caps are fine, it's more the boot around the flyback lead to the HVR - which has obviously gotten black grime underneath from being shunted up and down the lead during dis/connection. I'll give it a clean, but I'm reluctant to use silicone sealant on it as I may want to change it over later.

              Anyway, I need a replacement HVR. Sony part No.s 1-230-712-21 or 22 or better still 23 will do. I imagine we'd all normally have a few of those lying around. My excuse is that i lost my collection of them in the move to Tassie a few years back, but the rest of you need to cough up

              Seriously, any tips? The parts were discontinued at least 10 years ago. I have a request for a quote in with a company in the US, but i'll be astounded if they can find anything. I can also find one listed in a gumtree-like site in Uruguay for about $60USD, but the add isn't dated, and I don't speak Spanish. I hear that another HVR from a 25"-27" Trinitron might do the job - or anyway I could test it. I'm actually thinking of calling Sony Aus and charming the pants off them, using the line that if I was an art gallery with a video wall, and *needed* to repair these sets, could they think of what we can do next, sort of making it a joint venture
              Last edited by buttersoft; 23rd June 2016, 07:50 AM.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by buttersoft View Post

                I'm actually thinking of calling Sony Aus and charming the pants off them, using the line that if I was an art gallery with a video wall, and *needed* to repair these sets, could they think of what we can do next, sort of making it a joint venture
                Back in the day I was an authorised Sony repair agent and they were decidedly UN-helpful then, even to agents. I doubt they have improved.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Homepin View Post
                  Back in the day I was an authorised Sony repair agent and they were decidedly UN-helpful then, even to agents. I doubt they have improved.
                  They were a bunch of twats indeed.

                  On the other hand, if you ever worked on a Barco set youd never want to go back... Every single board and part can be so easily swapped with hardly any tools.

                  - - - Updated - - -

                  Originally posted by buttersoft View Post
                  Cheers for the help and advice! The anode caps are fine, it's more the boot around the flyback lead to the HVR - which has obviously gotten black grime underneath from being shunted up and down the lead during dis/connection. I'll give it a clean, but I'm reluctant to use silicone sealant on it as I may want to change it over later.

                  Anyway, I need a replacement HVR. Sony part No.s 1-230-712-21 or 22 or better still 23 will do. I imagine we'd all normally have a few of those lying around. My excuse is that i lost my collection of them in the move to Tassie a few years back, but the rest of you need to cough up

                  Seriously, any tips? The parts were discontinued at least 10 years ago. I have a request for a quote in with a company in the US, but i'll be astounded if they can find anything. I can also find one listed in a gumtree-like site in Uruguay for about $60USD, but the add isn't dated, and I don't speak Spanish. I hear that another HVR from a 25"-27" Trinitron might do the job - or anyway I could test it. I'm actually thinking of calling Sony Aus and charming the pants off them, using the line that if I was an art gallery with a video wall, and *needed* to repair these sets, could they think of what we can do next, sort of making it a joint venture
                  Ive asked a mate of mine for all the info he has in relation to this box, and to see if he can obtain one or more.
                  •Converting Game Gears and Atari LYNX with McWill screens and Gameboy Pocket with backlight and Bivert mods
                  •Sega Saturn, Dreamcast and Mega CD region free BIOS install and power supply repairs, NEO•GEO UniBIOS install, 3DO RGB and 240p mods, DIY kits available for all.
                  • CPS2 and NEO•GEO game repairs and conversions

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by NEO-GEO Man View Post
                    Ive asked a mate of mine for all the info he has in relation to this box, and to see if he can obtain one or more.
                    An HVR from these sets should be numbered right - PVM2730QM / KV27HV1 / KX27HG2 / KV27HG1 / PVM2530A / MBSM27V1. Anything from a Trinitron 25"-27" might be worth a look, similar vintage preferred, I would imagine?

                    Any reason not to go ordinary spark plug grease? Thermal properties would be well in range, and spark plugs get above 25KV a lot of the time...

                    This is the most amazing community. Seriously. And that worries me. Because I'm starting to owe more favours than I'll ever be able to repay

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by buttersoft View Post
                      An HVR from these sets should be numbered right - PVM2730QM / KV27HV1 / KX27HG2 / KV27HG1 / PVM2530A / MBSM27V1. Anything from a Trinitron 25"-27" might be worth a look, similar vintage preferred, I would imagine?

                      Any reason not to go ordinary spark plug grease? Thermal properties would be well in range, and spark plugs get above 25KV a lot of the time...

                      This is the most amazing community. Seriously. And that worries me. Because I'm starting to owe more favours than I'll ever be able to repay
                      Youll be right, we're here to help.

                      What is the part number on that faulty item?

                      Spark plug grease might be fine, give it a go i guess.
                      •Converting Game Gears and Atari LYNX with McWill screens and Gameboy Pocket with backlight and Bivert mods
                      •Sega Saturn, Dreamcast and Mega CD region free BIOS install and power supply repairs, NEO•GEO UniBIOS install, 3DO RGB and 240p mods, DIY kits available for all.
                      • CPS2 and NEO•GEO game repairs and conversions

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by NEO-GEO Man View Post
                        What is the part number on that faulty item?
                        AFAIK there are three versions of the HVR, or H.STAT or "HV Resistor Assy" that would be perfect as they come:

                        Sony parts 1-230-712-21, 1-230-712-22 or 1-230-712-23

                        The -23 part is the is the latest iteration, and probably best if avail. I think the first two often suffer failures like mine's had. But a working one of any of them would be totally amazing. Let alone a few!

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                        • #27
                          Will see what i can dig up.
                          •Converting Game Gears and Atari LYNX with McWill screens and Gameboy Pocket with backlight and Bivert mods
                          •Sega Saturn, Dreamcast and Mega CD region free BIOS install and power supply repairs, NEO•GEO UniBIOS install, 3DO RGB and 240p mods, DIY kits available for all.
                          • CPS2 and NEO•GEO game repairs and conversions

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                          • #28
                            I didn't mean to leave it quite so long, but have you had any luck, [MENTION=8581]NEO-GEO Man[/MENTION]?

                            Will this picture help?

                            Click image for larger version

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by buttersoft View Post
                              I didn't mean to leave it quite so long, but have you had any luck, [MENTION=8581]NEO-GEO Man[/MENTION]?

                              Will this picture help?
                              [ATTACH=CONFIG]96073[/ATTACH]
                              No mate i wasnt able to locate any parts that you needed, which is unfortunate!
                              •Converting Game Gears and Atari LYNX with McWill screens and Gameboy Pocket with backlight and Bivert mods
                              •Sega Saturn, Dreamcast and Mega CD region free BIOS install and power supply repairs, NEO•GEO UniBIOS install, 3DO RGB and 240p mods, DIY kits available for all.
                              • CPS2 and NEO•GEO game repairs and conversions

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by NEO-GEO Man View Post
                                No mate i wasnt able to locate any parts that you needed, which is unfortunate!
                                That is unfortunate. But you have my thanks for trying

                                I'll start hunting myself and see what I can turn up.

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