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  • Neo Geo repair in Melbourne?

    Is there anyone in Melbourne who could repair MVS motherboards? I've got three that are beyond my powers.

  • #2
    Originally posted by lavalyte View Post
    Is there anyone in Melbourne who could repair MVS motherboards? I've got three that are beyond my powers.
    What models and what are symtoms?

    Do you wish to sell them?
    •Converting Game Gears and Atari LYNX with McWill screens and Gameboy Pocket with backlight and Bivert mods
    •Sega Saturn, Dreamcast and Mega CD region free BIOS install and power supply repairs, NEO•GEO UniBIOS install, 3DO RGB and 240p mods, DIY kits available for all.
    • CPS2 and NEO•GEO game repairs and conversions

    Comment


    • #3
      I have a MV1C which is working except that the p1 D-button is permanently on and I can't see anything on the motherboard that might be shorting. I have an MV1F that doesn't start up properly, never gets to the cross hatching screen and seems to flicker. I have a 4 slot that also doesn't start up but seems to be worse than the MV1F.

      I would like to try the 4 slot and MV1F in someone else's setup just to be sure the problem isn't a lack of amps from my little CMVS.

      I'd consider trading 3 non-working for 1 working + a cart.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by lavalyte View Post
        I have a MV1C which is working except that the p1 D-button is permanently on and I can't see anything on the motherboard that might be shorting. I have an MV1F that doesn't start up properly, never gets to the cross hatching screen and seems to flicker. I have a 4 slot that also doesn't start up but seems to be worse than the MV1F.

        I would like to try the 4 slot and MV1F in someone else's setup just to be sure the problem isn't a lack of amps from my little CMVS.

        I'd consider trading 3 non-working for 1 working + a cart.
        Take the battery out of the 1F and see if that fixes it. Leave it out for testing.

        The 1C has a faulty chip, im not sure which one it is though, id have to see a pic now to remember. I dont think i have a 1C here.

        The 4 slotter could be anything, id need to see it, and even then there is no promise.

        I have a near new 1 slotter and a perfectly good never been in a cab 4 slotter that has stereo sockets and the same RGB output as the home console, both have UniBIOS fitted, but no way theyd sell for a trade of 2 faulty boards

        - - - Updated - - -

        You need at least 3A on the 5V line for a single slotter, but they will still boot with no cart with a lot less. The 4 slotter will choke on anything less than 5A if you load all 4 slots. The 12v line only powers the audio amp and is not needed if you connect to an external amp. The machine only needs 5V to operate.
        •Converting Game Gears and Atari LYNX with McWill screens and Gameboy Pocket with backlight and Bivert mods
        •Sega Saturn, Dreamcast and Mega CD region free BIOS install and power supply repairs, NEO•GEO UniBIOS install, 3DO RGB and 240p mods, DIY kits available for all.
        • CPS2 and NEO•GEO game repairs and conversions

        Comment


        • #5
          Coin Play Australi

          Try Gunner at

          Coin Play Australia in Mulgrave
          Ph 18000 333 350

          Hope that help







          Originally posted by lavalyte View Post
          I have a MV1C which is working except that the p1 D-button is permanently on and I can't see anything on the motherboard that might be shorting. I have an MV1F that doesn't start up properly, never gets to the cross hatching screen and seems to flicker. I have a 4 slot that also doesn't start up but seems to be worse than the MV1F.

          I would like to try the 4 slot and MV1F in someone else's setup just to be sure the problem isn't a lack of amps from my little CMVS.

          I'd consider trading 3 non-working for 1 working + a cart.

          Comment


          • #6
            Regarding the MV1C how do I get the battery out? It's sitting a bracket that looks like the battery is just being held in place but it appears to be solderered or welded into the bracket.
            Further, I've noticed that the p1 D button only registers as ON when there's a cartridge in. The weird thing is, I turned it on without a cart, went to the hardware display and the D button slowly flickered on and off until it was completely off. After that it never registers as on without a cart in, but with a cart its always on.

            Comment


            • #7
              I misread, but I do have the same issue with the 1F regarding battery.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by lavalyte View Post
                Regarding the MV1C how do I get the battery out? It's sitting a bracket that looks like the battery is just being held in place but it appears to be solderered or welded into the bracket.
                Further, I've noticed that the p1 D button only registers as ON when there's a cartridge in. The weird thing is, I turned it on without a cart, went to the hardware display and the D button slowly flickered on and off until it was completely off. After that it never registers as on without a cart in, but with a cart its always on.
                Disconnect that D button and see if that is the issue, what sort of button is it? Now that youve added that is may not be the board, but the microswitch in the button that is faulty.

                To remove the battery just desolder it. Its spot welded, and the metal brackets solder into the board.

                The problem with the backup RAM in NEO•GEOs is that on occation you may have a game cause a glitch that corrupts the backup data, and it must be cleared to fix the issue. Ive seen it cause graphical glitches, sound glitches, control issues, program issues, and even stop a board from starting.
                •Converting Game Gears and Atari LYNX with McWill screens and Gameboy Pocket with backlight and Bivert mods
                •Sega Saturn, Dreamcast and Mega CD region free BIOS install and power supply repairs, NEO•GEO UniBIOS install, 3DO RGB and 240p mods, DIY kits available for all.
                • CPS2 and NEO•GEO game repairs and conversions

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by NEO-GEO Man View Post
                  Disconnect that D button and see if that is the issue, what sort of button is it? Now that youve added that is may not be the board, but the microswitch in the button that is faulty.

                  To remove the battery just desolder it. Its spot welded, and the metal brackets solder into the board.

                  The problem with the backup RAM in NEO•GEOs is that on occation you may have a game cause a glitch that corrupts the backup data, and it must be cleared to fix the issue. Ive seen it cause graphical glitches, sound glitches, control issues, program issues, and even stop a board from starting.
                  This is all going through a CMVS. I have another board that works just fine through it, so I don't think its the wiring of the CMVS or the controller.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Oh ok, better post a pic so i know what youre talking about, a CMVS is generally a complete consolised unit, as in the consolising mods are done onboard to make the MVS edge connector redundant and make for simple connection to TVs.

                    - - - Updated - - -

                    Originally posted by lavalyte View Post
                    This is all going through a CMVS. I have another board that works just fine through it, so I don't think its the wiring of the CMVS or the controller.
                    What other board?

                    - - - Updated - - -

                    Originally posted by lavalyte View Post
                    I misread, but I do have the same issue with the 1F regarding battery.
                    You can cut the side pin it side cutters if you like.

                    - - - Updated - - -

                    Originally posted by lavalyte View Post
                    This is all going through a CMVS. I have another board that works just fine through it, so I don't think its the wiring of the CMVS or the controller.
                    Is this device you speak of designed for JAMMA connection or MVS connection? Theyre not the same.
                    •Converting Game Gears and Atari LYNX with McWill screens and Gameboy Pocket with backlight and Bivert mods
                    •Sega Saturn, Dreamcast and Mega CD region free BIOS install and power supply repairs, NEO•GEO UniBIOS install, 3DO RGB and 240p mods, DIY kits available for all.
                    • CPS2 and NEO•GEO game repairs and conversions

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by NEO-GEO Man View Post
                      Oh ok, better post a pic so i know what youre talking about, a CMVS is generally a complete consolised unit, as in the consolising mods are done onboard to make the MVS edge connector redundant and make for simple connection to TVs.

                      - - - Updated - - -



                      What other board?

                      - - - Updated - - -



                      You can cut the side pin it side cutters if you like.
                      So... here's what I have. This is a CMVS that I just finished today that I'm using to test the other boards.
                      The board inside works with no problems. The other image is the board I am having the problem with.
                      This CMVS is only connected to a 2 Amp power source so I suspect I should really test them some other way.


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                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by lavalyte View Post
                        So... here's what I have. This is a CMVS that I just finished today that I'm using to test the other boards.
                        The board inside works with no problems. The other image is the board I am having the problem with.
                        This CMVS is only connected to a 2 Amp power source so I suspect I should really test them some other way.


                        [ATTACH=CONFIG]93212[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]93213[/ATTACH]
                        2A is heaps to run a single slitter with no cart in it and have it work as it should. Itll probably also be enough to run some games too.

                        The 1F has a switch to swap between JAMMA and MVS, like i said before the two are not the same, ive never tried wiring up incorrectly to find out what it does.

                        Are you using this only for NEO•GEO?
                        •Converting Game Gears and Atari LYNX with McWill screens and Gameboy Pocket with backlight and Bivert mods
                        •Sega Saturn, Dreamcast and Mega CD region free BIOS install and power supply repairs, NEO•GEO UniBIOS install, 3DO RGB and 240p mods, DIY kits available for all.
                        • CPS2 and NEO•GEO game repairs and conversions

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Yes, only Neo Geo.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by lavalyte View Post
                            Yes, only Neo Geo.
                            Remove that battery to clear backup and see if it changes anything.
                            •Converting Game Gears and Atari LYNX with McWill screens and Gameboy Pocket with backlight and Bivert mods
                            •Sega Saturn, Dreamcast and Mega CD region free BIOS install and power supply repairs, NEO•GEO UniBIOS install, 3DO RGB and 240p mods, DIY kits available for all.
                            • CPS2 and NEO•GEO game repairs and conversions

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I desoldered the battery for the MV1C and the MV1F and had the same result.
                              I also put them all through a supergun that uses an ATX power supply with the same result.
                              I can only conclude they all have problems on the board.

                              Comment

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