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LAI cabinet refurbishment


Anything to do with repairs.

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  • #31
    Originally posted by gsuttor View Post
    wiring in the cabinet to be standard JAMMA instead of that hybrid thing.
    Don't know if anyone else has mentioned this, but the weird jumper thing is probably LAI's specific pinout that they did for most/all their machines. I think (but have not confirmed) that they'd use pigtails to go from that to each board when they'd swap a board out. I think it pre-dates JAMMA, and they just kept using it after JAMMA, mine came with one to connect it to JAMMA for my Neo Geo board.


    • #32
      Are there other causes of bad rgb sync other than a bad Sync wire/connection?

      EDIT: Found this conversation... def crappy 5v connection on the Harness then.


      • #33
        So a pretty big week considering working full time and in between other things. Got my Duratrans (custom size) marquee after 4 weeks of waiting, they had a big Christmas print queue.
        Click image for larger version

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        Hats of to ProLab in Brisbane them it was a superb print at $66, but worth every cent IMO, love it.
        My only regret is I didn't take into account the wood edge at the top of the cabinet which leaves a dark shadow.

        The original Rygar Marquee is shorter width and higher, which means I had to crop top/bottom to the best of my ability to fit this exact size and also extend the artwork sideways a little, adding a big more leg and background to Mr Rygar.

        Next year I'll be getting the screen bezel and side art printed. Exactly the same issue, the format of the monitor mount/bezel is different from the original artwork, so Photoshop will come out for some more work. Eventually I'll upgrade the control panel, or is that downgrade? I need to get a similar (non-bent) metal control panel made and new print, set up a single joystick and 2 buttons in the middle. I hate standing at the left side of the cabinet to play.


        • #34
          I'm absolutely over the moon at the moment, my original Rygar board came back from repair and not only is 100% but it's stabilised the VGA adapter flicker! How?


          • #35
            Got my custom size screen bezel (from photoshop modification I did to fit cavity size and screen). Same local printing place as the Marquee (Prolab)
            They suggested to print on 1mm thick PVC rather than cardboard for durability and it worked a treat. They even cute to screen hole ($80 all up)
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            Fit's perfectly!
            The cabinet came with very heavy duty but dark tinted glass, so it was really dulling the graphics behind it.
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            So I whipped down to Bunnings and got a sheet of 600x900x5mm clear Perspex (wanted 600x600 but Clark Rubber was out of it).
            As the Perspex was 5mm thick it was to thick for scoring and snapping with a Stanley knife, had to use a fine blade hand saw, what an effort.
            Anyway, it does improve the visuals a lot, but I'm thinking maybe some of my print is too dark to start with. Anyway, jobs done for that!
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            Next up is the side art decals. Already sent in the images, can't wait to see how they turn out!


            • #36
              Ohh and to brag a bit. This machine has allowed me to do this!

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              • #37
                Holy shit, nice work! That's a crazy Rygar score.


                • #38
                  My side art came today (local print shop can do EVERYTHING!) ~$45 each side. Application was super simple. I did have to cut them out with a razor knife though, quite tedious.
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                  Ohh... and a new high score
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                  • #39
                    So colours on a LCD is something I've been struggling with since I got the PCB. I don't know if the 'fluro green' colour I get in the background is a result of the VGA converter, my contrast/brightness/saturation settings or an issue with the board.

                    The image below shows the MAME colours, which I think are accurate to how it should look.
                    Below to the left is the PCB the first time I plugged it in through a VGA converter on default settings (faulty sky background), then in the middle image is the repaired board, and top right the current status of the board with me playing with settings on the converter and LCD.
                    Also the cab had very dark tinted glass which I replaced with clear acrylic, so the original images are from that dark tint version in different lighting conditions.

                    I have been playing with the saturation/contrast/brightness on the converter but no matter what I do the bright green always remains fluro like compared to 'grass' green. It should be darker!

                    Does anyone know if this is common with the converters? I'm hopefully getting a CRT back in next weekend to confirm if the VGA converter, but my gut feeling is the board is outputting a really high green for the background (the foreground tree's aren't so bad). Any ideas what it could be?
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                    • #40
                      Found a video from another converter that I had to send back due to bad interference issues (all over screen shimmer made it unplayable).
                      I would have loved this converter to be clean as it shows the bootup sequence, rom check etc. that is hidden in the Chinese adapter.

                      Anyway point is, the green feels a little darker/better, but still very Fluro like.

                      If I try turn down the green pot/screw thingy on the Chinese adapter the whole screen reduces in green which put off all other colours that are fine.

                      So now I thin I just wait for the CRT and hope all is good. :/

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                      • #41
                        future hive GIF


                        • #42
                          I worked it out. The pots on the Chinese VGA converter card when set at 100 (all the way up) are completely unbalanced RGB colours. So it was turn green down a little turn red up, turn blue a little etc etc untiI got it pretty much how I want it. To it really was the VGA adapter.
                          Here is a low res crappy image from a stream but you can see the green is nice and dark.
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                          • #43
                            OK I need help... I installed a CRT I bought yesterday and it was working but there was 2 issues as I was installing it.

                            1. The ground plug that goes into the neck board had been damaged, but still connectable. (it came like this)
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                            2. There was a blue/red horizontal convergence issue.
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                            So after watching some videos around convergence rings I wanted to see if mine had some kind of 'marking/line' as suggested in the videos where the factory had set the alignment and somehow the rings were slightly off. No such marking. So I figured how hard could it be to adjust one slightly and see the result, I could always put it exactly back where it was.

                            Look I'm a bit of a tinkerer, and want to understand how these work, how else do you learn?
                            First set are purity, second set red/blue (my targets), third set green in relation to red blue (or so was described).
                            I understand this is not a novice adjustment but I figured learning the hard way is sometimes a worthwhile exercise. I took photos of the positions, a mental note etc.
                            I mean eventually I could put them back right?

                            So first, because they were super accessible, I made mental not of the purity ring positions and tried to separate them slightly.
                            No such luck... upon moving the rings... the little plastic(?) grab pieces just broke straight off, it was super brittle. I thought "ok there are still knobs left where the broke so they are still movable and put them back in position. So I did.

                            At this point I'm thinking, ok these seem bad, and sure enough the bottom ring is completely cracked in one place and the tab (which I had not touched!) and moving the associated grab tab it literally will hang out. So I shut everything off, push the broken ring into place and am where I am now. Completely demoralised.

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                            I understand these parts are really old, so you can expect issues, but I don't know if these issues are fixable.
                            It's really knocked my confidence around having a CRT back in the machine. I don't know what to do at this point.
                            Is this dangerous or just means my convergence is likely to be stuffed forever and not adjustable?

                            After the high of getting it in and having it working with the slight convergence issue, today I'm just completely deflated.


                            • #44
                              Hi, sorry to hear about that problem - try not to be too hard on yourself after all the amazing things you've achieved in this thread already ! a setback here and there can't be avoided, especially on this old hardware.

                              It's a brave person who attempts a purity / convergence adjustment and it takes a bit of practice even without the issue of damaged magnetic rings. And the result is never perfect, there is always some compromise on these standard TV tubes...

                              It might pay to put it aside and try to replace the magnet assembly with another one from a similar tube - what's the number on that CRT, by the way?

                              Old CRTs which are worn out are often discarded along with the deflection yoke and convergence assy which can be saved for a working tube with a dead deflection coil or an issue such as yours.

                              I have been buying old CRTs and chassis to fix or for parts and have one CRT with deep scratches on the face which is useless - so if the magnet assy off that tube is the same I can send you that one, if you like.

                              Regards, John

                              more from John's Retro Workshop -


                              • #45
                                Ok a little more uplifted today successfully discharging and removing the tube (yeah I can do something right!). It looks like if you COULD replace the assembly it would be good again I guess?
                                There WAS a line marking from the factory on the rings, it just happened to be on the opposite side (where I have no access when installed).
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                                Note the fallen out piece I was talking about 'hanging out' in previous posts, resting below the assemble on the white structure. There are also gaps in the rings you can see from where they just crumbled.


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