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Granox
9th June 2015, 05:39 PM
Hi all, where do I start hmmm how about at the beginning. More than 20 years ago I married a young lady from Asia and of course she soon found that the local pubs had an abundance of slot machines. She would head down to the local pub and spend $20 to $30 a day. This was beginning to cause me some serious problems an I had to think of doing something before I was bankrupted. I had the idea of buying an old slot machine and putting it in the house for her to play. We I managed to find a 1960's machine with a 4 ft stand. The machine was an old Aristocrat 5 cent totally mechanical 3 reel unit and cost me $250. Well I filled it up with 5 cent pieces and gave my wife about $20 worth of 5 cent pieces. When she finished them I would open it and give her another $20 worth. Well she played it for hours every day and finally after 2 weeks she got board and the best part is she had no impulse to go and play the ones at the pub either so she was cured...fantastic. Now hmmm what to I do with the slot machine. Well I loved the fact that it was totally mechanical and thought I should restore it. Ok fast forward to about 5 years ago and I started to disassemble it. Below is the machine as I got it

Rich
9th June 2015, 06:00 PM
So you have started your thread, cool, looking forward to this.
Reckon the novelty window showing the coins rotate is tops!

Rob1966
9th June 2015, 06:09 PM
I bought my missus an ex Las Vegas IGT triple diamond pokie she played it for awhile and same thing got bored with it pretty quick, it's the thrill of winning a big jackpot out in a club that keeps them going, winning your own money back just isn't the same


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Granox
9th June 2015, 06:36 PM
Well I have a lot of mahogany furniture and I also like the colours black and gold. So I have decided to replace all the timber with solid mahogany and where possible brass plate the chrome bits. So that is the direction I was headed. Ok first is to I had to dismantle it to have the parts plated

- - - Updated - - -

Now I did do a deal with a friend to get the parts plated but that was a total disaster so I got them back and had them done myself. This actually took me a year to get the parts back and find someone who could brass plate. Also my mate lost a few pieces so I will need to manufacture those...I'll cover that when I get to it.

zippo
10th June 2015, 07:39 AM
looks like you have a good project
keep the photos coming

Rich
10th June 2015, 10:28 AM
So did you do this a while back and have kept all the pics......and now you've found AA your sharing the resto?

angs1957
10th June 2015, 05:18 PM
Sure does depend o the environment your in when playing those machines, either way the machine looks great and will look even better once restored

Granox
10th June 2015, 06:24 PM
@ Rich
Yes the restoration is on going and I'm about 90% done

- - - Updated - - -

So I sent the parts are off to the plates and some were too big to fit in the plating bath so I had them done in black baked enamel. Like I said I like black and gold and I think it will go well with the mahogany.

My next step was to find some nice mahogany planks I needed 4ft high 19inch wide and 3/4 thick. And guess what you can't get it. I did however managed to find some planks of African Mahogany 1.6in thick but only half as wide as what I wanted. So I bought the planks had them machined down and joined. All up the timber alone cost me over $1000AUD (don't tell the wife)

I finally got my plating back $600 AUD lighter (again don't tell the wife)

As you can see the large front panel had to be baked enamel as did the top section

- - - Updated - - -

So where next to start hmmmm. I didn't like the perspex panels very much, arr the perspex panels. I have always been a fan of the etched glass of the 1860's so hey, why not I will replace all the perspex panels with etched glass that I will do myself, it cant be that hard, right. After a number of broken glass panels and ugly attempts I finally did it by taping the glass with masking tape cutting out the areas I wanted etched and then sand blasting the glass.
I etched clubs, spades, diamonds and hearts in both the glass of the coil rotation viewer and the reel viewer and included an edging. Now I didn't like the 27ways perspex panel and though I might replace it with some etched glass, hmm what to etch into it? Finally decided to etch our last name Cherry and this fits into the poker machine theme (three cherries). On the large panel I did like the sunken ship and treasure scene so I cleaned that up and added a 1/16 inch sheet of glass in front with an etched outline around it and included the clubs, spades, diamonds and hearts logos in the boarder

jason1
10th June 2015, 06:24 PM
The black looks good but its a shame you couldnt get it Nickle plated. it would have looked amazing.

that machine would look absolutely amazing with new nickle
your mate really stung you hard for the plating. $600 and couldnt do your faceplate.
and $1000 for the wood wow.

the rolling coins is cool. a bit of a 60's take of the old rolatops

Granox
10th June 2015, 06:29 PM
hahahaha sorry Jason way too late ........actually it really looks fantastic just wait until you see the finished photos in a couple of days it will blow your mind.

jason1
10th June 2015, 06:42 PM
mate Im sure it will look awesome.

But im a big fan of nickle plating lol

But what about the irony of this story, you bought the machine to save you from bankruptcy and now the same machine is sending you to the cleaners ahaha

just remind the missus if she complains how much money you saved when you got it lol

rod71
10th June 2015, 07:01 PM
Wow, very interesting and also very odd :) Looking forward to seeing the end result.

Just an observation, but you broke a design rule with the "Cherry" etching. Script or calligraphic fonts shouldn't be all caps :cool:

Granox
10th June 2015, 07:03 PM
Well I had the panels back from the platers and finished the etching so what else was I going to do but put them together and see what they look like of course. Well I did break a couple of the glass panels and needed to remake them during this stage. Rather than clamp them down as the perspex was it is better just to clamp finger tight and a couple blobs of silicon finishes the job.

jason1
10th June 2015, 07:06 PM
Got any pictures of the wood sides?

Im a restoration guy so i love seeing this stuff

Granox
10th June 2015, 09:03 PM
Yes Jason just getting to that now hehehehe.........
Ok now it's time to start on the timber but I didn't want it to be exactly the same so I added rounded corners and routered the edges. I even decided to make all the internal support blocks that were attached to the side panels out of Mahogany as well as the internal shelving. These were originally 5ply painted black. The foot stand hmmm not much of this is seen and the top is covered by a rubber foot mat so do I go for it or what??? Yeah what the hell. The original one was very crudely made so I redesigned it slightly having mitred corners and the top board inset where you can see it. I will do away with the foot mat and do something with a big WOW factor that has a brass and mahogany flavour.

Now of course all there were measured and cut and routered without a single mistake...yeah right. I made heaps of mistakes but luckily they were all recoverable.

- - - Updated - - -

Then it was time to decide on the stain and finish.

jason1
10th June 2015, 09:06 PM
yer it looks allot better than that veneered shit that is for sure.
Look forward to your updates as this one comes along

Granox
10th June 2015, 09:43 PM
Also I wasn't happy with the stain as it was too light so I went back to the paint shop and they added some black to it ...perfect. I also chose a satin finish polyurethane to coat it all. Now I'm almost to the point where I am actually at and I will be posting updates as I move along over the next month or so...lets hope not much longer than that. I'm happy to answer any questions so let them fly.

I have also stained and varnished both sides of all timbers.

- - - Updated - - -

I have more photos to post but reached my limit and don't know how to remove the pics in my folder to add more

rod71
10th June 2015, 10:10 PM
Also I wasn't happy with the stain as it was too light so I went back to the paint shop and they added some black to it ...perfect. I also chose a satin finish polyurethane to coat it all. Now I'm almost to the point where I am actually at and I will be posting updates as I move along over the next month or so...lets hope not much longer than that. I'm happy to answer any questions so let them fly.

I have also stained and varnished both sides of all timbers.

- - - Updated - - -

I have more photos to post but reached my limit and don't know how to remove the pics in my folder to add more

Stain looks awesome!

Better to upload pics to a site like imgur.com and link them from there directly into your post.

jason1
11th June 2015, 12:03 PM
that color and style will certainly make your slot look more vintage than it actually is.
its a nice 40's look to it now which is a nice improvement over the tacky 60's.

Granox
11th June 2015, 03:50 PM
that color and style will certainly make your slot look more vintage than it actually is.
its a nice 40's look to it now which is a nice improvement over the tacky 60's.
Just wait until I am able to post more photos the outside is already finished and it looks fantastic.

Rich
12th June 2015, 09:46 AM
Now that's 'personalizing'.
When you mention some parts were too big to fit in the plating bath what type of plating were you intending to go for?

Granox
12th June 2015, 11:15 AM
I originally wanted to plate everything brass that was chrome but the main front panel/door was too big for the plating bath so I had it done in black baked enamel. I have a lot more photos to post but I reached my 5m limit here

Homepin
12th June 2015, 01:23 PM
I have a lot more photos to post but I reached my 5m limit here

Like Rod said:

"Better to upload pics to a site like imgur.com and link them from there directly into your post."

Granox
12th June 2015, 06:24 PM
These are the rest of the photos of when I stained and varnished the panels.

http://i.imgur.com/31HMcqx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/4WURrK7.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/T5OS5Ob.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/NUI8AI0.jpg

Granox
13th June 2015, 12:55 PM
Well I had put the final coat of varnish on all the inner timbers and so soon it was time to start putting all the cabinetry together. After some deep thought, who knew I was capable of that, I have worked out that all the positions of the internal shelving and brackets must measured from the top edge of the side panels. The reason for this is that the top machine section is set to the top of the side panels and therefore all the mechanics have to line up with the pull handle and glass windows in the front of the machine which are a set distance from the top section. I have taken photos as I went through this step and make the relevant postings. I hope what I am doing is enjoyed by everyone. I really wanted this restoration to have that all important WOW factor and as such I still have some magic touches I haven't told you about yet and I'll reveal those as I go.

Granox
13th June 2015, 01:38 PM
I decided to replace the back panel completely and luckily for me I had a perfect piece of timber to do it, a 5 ply piece of Formply. It's like marine ply with a had black coating on both sides. This machine has it's own built in trolley complete with handles and wheels which fold up when not is use, a brilliant idea.
So I removed these cleaned them up and gave the a nice new coat of matt black paint. Measured out all the bolt holes and mounted them on the Formply. I then attached the major support brackets inside and a little glue, some bolts and some brads and the first side was on. All of the internal metal brackets are bolted on to the side panels with a special threaded bolt and a Helicoil type fitting into the timber. I tried for a year to find something for this and finally came across the inserts shown in the attached photo. You need to drill a starter hole and screw them in with an Allen key. To ensure the hole wasn't too deep I slid a piece of pneumatic tubing over the drill to stop the drill at the right depth, wouldn't want the hole to go all the way through. Then you need to get all the shavings out of the blind hole so the insert can go all the way in and another piece of pneumatic tubing came in perfect for this a little blow of air and the hole was clear.

http://i.imgur.com/bKSs0FS.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/oHLGpvT.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/SD82H7d.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/wLxP2hq.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zqDJHNP.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CoAhjBr.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/h05AkmX.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MvnZEDK.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/IRPUGVC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/y2EzuT8.jpg

Granox
13th June 2015, 10:41 PM
With both sides and the foot stand on it was time to mount the top and front section. Not as easy as it sounds. The new side panels protrude about 3/16 inch further forward which meant they obstructed the hinge of large front panel and the door wasn't able to be opened. Slotting the holes on the mounting side of the hinge solved the problem and not before a lot of swearing was heard. So now we have it starting to resemble a slot machine.
http://i.imgur.com/IRPUGVC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/1v7ujaR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/bzQl1U3.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/65RoiJZ.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Well the day was spent putting all the timbers, doors and covers on and there were some considerable issues getting them to line up properly but with a little perseverance I managed to get there. So here it is with most of the timber work completed. I think the real fun will start now with getting all the mechanics cleaned up and lined up and well as mounting and lining up all the various shoots.

http://i.imgur.com/6GjCAyW.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rfsaaQw.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/L238n0B.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ridQkao.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/jNHwUsM.jpg

Rich
15th June 2015, 05:22 PM
Coming along nicely, do you remember where you got those helicoil type screw in nuts?

Granox
16th June 2015, 04:20 PM
Coming along nicely, do you remember where you got those helicoil type screw in nuts?

I got them from Masters. Looked everywhere for a year and found them 5 minutes up the road.......always the way

- - - Updated - - -

I decided to finish the exterior so I added brass protectors to all the corners.
Well I needed to insert the lock for the drop down door where you open to access the money draw. It took me forever to find a brass lock and I also needed some sort of brass escutcheon for it. I wasn't able to find anything suitable so decided to make one from sheet brass. My final decision was to keep it simple. Sometimes less is more. So with the corner brasses and the escutcheon I'm heading to that WOW factor I was looking for.

http://i.imgur.com/W3G1EDL.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/glcY7Ia.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/wtzNGPP.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Now time to add the ball to the handle so I settled on using an 8 ball. So the dilemma how to make sure I drill the hole vertical and in the correct spot between the two 8's. "Bing" brilliant idea....cut a 40mm hole in some timber and sit the ball in that with the 8s centred and equal heights then place a small funnel on top of the ball. Scrape some chalk above the funnel hole so the dust goes in and settles on the ball exactly centre between the 8's. Now remove the funnel careful and use a pedestal drill to drill the hole. Starting with a small drill working my way to the 16mm drill. And there you have it.

jason1
16th June 2015, 04:31 PM
a vast improvement over the old shit sides. good work.
If you want to make those brass fittings even brighter, give them a hand buff with some Autosole. they will look even better again and match the brightness of your new plating. also stop them dulling down as it protects as well.

Granox
16th June 2015, 07:59 PM
Now remember earlier in the thread I said I wanted a WOW factor, well time for one of them. Originally on the foot rest there was a black rubber mat with the words ARISTOCRAT and a crown and a bunch of raised dots. So I decided to make this out of brass cut out the crown and word ARISTOCRAT and slot it. This way you have matching brass and you see the polished mahogany underneath. So I hope you agree I think it hives it a bit of WOW. I had to have it cut with water jet cutting as laser cutting doesn't work on brass.

http://i.imgur.com/8GBWPL8.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rqyBGyY.jpg

Not finished yet but it looks a lot better than the original.

http://i.imgur.com/INLfx19.jpg

Next step is to install LED lighting that will go through the colour spectrum and reinstall the mechanics.

I'm open to swapping it for a Wurlitzer or Rock-Ola with the bubbles.

hotty
16th June 2015, 08:04 PM
That's a great job and it looks absolutely fantastic but I don't think its worth a swap for an OMT dollar value wise.

Granox
16th June 2015, 09:35 PM
That's a great job and it looks absolutely fantastic but I don't think its worth a swap for an OMT dollar value wise.

Really ....the raw timber alone cost $1000

Rich
17th June 2015, 06:51 AM
Did you get it plated?
Might just be the lighting but it looks nickel/chrome.
Anyway that is one custom bandit.

TheDazzler
17th June 2015, 09:34 AM
Beautiful restoration, i just got a machine on the weekend and this thread has given me many ideas for my restoration.

Granox
17th June 2015, 09:50 AM
Did you get it plated?
Might just be the lighting but it looks nickel/chrome.
Anyway that is one custom bandit.

Hi Rich, get what plated? If you mean the foot rest it is polished brass sheet. I drew up the profile in autocad so that the profile would be perfectly symmetrical and would follow the routing of the upright pieces.

hotty
17th June 2015, 11:32 AM
Really ....the raw timber alone cost $1000

I just don't think this pokie as beautifully restored as it is, isn't worth north of $5k because that's what these bubbler jukes will fetch in poor condition, the better ones fetch considerably higher..But if someone out there will entertain the idea of a straight swap then that's great for both of you. I am not mocking your restoration it's just an opinion on your comment you made.

mystico
17th June 2015, 01:30 PM
great resto!! It looks grand!

Rob1966
17th June 2015, 10:05 PM
It is very nice and I do love the look of it and you have improved it 200 percent, but when you restore these things that we collect it is so easy to over capitalize and spend a lot more on time and parts than it will be worth I could be wrong but I would probably value it at $1800 to $2500 max which is a huge improvement because I would have valued it at about $300 to $400 pre restoration
Really ....the raw timber alone cost $1000

Granox
17th June 2015, 11:28 PM
hehehe well I haven't finished yet I'm going to brass plate a 5 cent piece and insert it into the coin return button and I have some more brass pieces to go on it to.

Rich
18th June 2015, 06:40 AM
Hi Rich, get what plated? If you mean the foot rest it is polished brass sheet. I drew up the profile in autocad so that the profile would be perfectly symmetrical and would follow the routing of the upright pieces.

Looking at the pic of the foot rest plate it looks plated, I don't see the brass colour.

Granox
18th June 2015, 07:11 AM
no it's polished brass and lacquered. Must just be the way the light hit it.