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Jesder
17th January 2014, 08:09 PM
I've had my Nugent for just over a month now and in among lots of playing, I've been hard at work learning about pinball machines and making improvements to mine. I've posted a few pics in other threads, so will try not to duplicate too much - but wanted to go through a few things I've been working on and put up a lot of photos for those who are interested. The follow is a series of changes, fixes, upgrades & mods I've made over the last few weeks. I've had a lot of fun playing my new machine, but equally as much getting my head inside the machine and learning how it works. I'm glad to have an older machine to start with, as I think they could be easier to become familiar with.

The machine is functional and plays fine, although there are a few issues I needed to sort out. Kind of what I'd expect from a machine that is 35 years old. I suspect I've played it more in the last month, than it's been played in the last few years - so I suspect a few issues are coming to the surface as I play - and that's OK - everything seems possible to fix.

For the last few years I've had my head inside arcade machines - so Pinball machines are a new beast. I wanted to try doing a few simple things first and use this as a chance to learn some pinball 101. Giving the playfield a clean and changing the rubbers seemed to be a good place to start.

The playfield has collected dirt, dust, small leaves (?) and bits of plastic that look like they came from some of the star posts.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_dirt.jpg

Before wiping it all down however, I wanted to replace all the rubbers. The machine came with black rubbers installed and they looked well worn. I've read that black rubbers tend to get the playfield dirty and I found just touching them to remove put black marks all over my hands. The red rubbers on the flippers were also well used and quite dirty – these were removed.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_flipper_rubber.jpg

The star post caps were also well past their used by date. These don’t have and effect on the gameplay, but these look faded and old. As you can see in the photo below, the new white ones look so much better.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_postcaps.jpg

Next up it was time to remove all the plastics and old black rubber. I took the opportunity to replace all the old bulbs with new #47′s.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_stripped.jpg

I decided to replace all bulbs under the playfield too as most were #44′s. Some were broken too, which I replaced also. I love looking at the wiring on these things. In the future, I will also be replacing the drop targets, so will need to get back under here to remove the old ones and add the new ones, so this was good opportunity to get familiar with the internals.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_underside.jpg

I then added all new white rubbers along with yellow flipper rubbers. Yellow was the original colour the Nugent shipped with and it looks alright. I’m thinking I may get a set of blue flipper rubbers at some point as I think blue will look great. All the plastics were reinstalled and start post caps added. I wipes the plastics down also which gave them a clean look – amazing how much dust gets into these things.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_newrubber.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_newflipperrubber.jpg

That left me with a nice pile of old rubber to throw out. I also replaced the rebound rubber at the top with a new white disc – looks much better than the old hard black disk.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_oldrubber.jpg

The shooter rubber was replaced too with a new tip:

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_shootertip.jpg

With that done, I gave the playfield a wipe down with a lint free cloth and used a vacuum to suck up any loose dust and dirt. The glass was cleaned on both sides and added back on. I played a number of games afterwards and was amazed at the improvement the new rubber made. It felt MUCH better.

After giving the playfield some attention, I shifted my focus to the backglass.

One of the first things I wanted to when I got the machine was have a look at the game board. All of this lives behind the backglass. There is a lock on the top right of the machine. Sadly this lock came with no key, and I could not locate one inside the machine. Looking at the lock, it appeared that the previous owner had also misplaced the keys as the lock itself looked like it had been attacked with a screwdriver. Using a screwdriver myself, I undid it.

With the lock undone, I could then slide the actual backglass up and out to reveal the bulbs, score displays and door containing the components.

The lock itself controls a long metal rail that runs across the top of the backglass. With the lock engaged, the backglass cannot be moved. With the lock open, it removes the metal rail, allowing the backglass to be slid up and out.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/backglass_broken_lock.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/backglass_metalbar.jpg

I switched the power on to note which bulbs no longer worked and replaced them. There were also some bulbs missing. At first I thought this was strange, but then after replacing them I noticed that the newly lighted areas showed some flaws in the backglass artwork - so suspect this was intentional. It's not too bad, so decided to leave it with all bulbs. I also ordered 10 blinking bulbs to use across the top row of bulbs (a suggestion from #rob71 (http://www.aussiearcade.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=rob71) )– this will create a binking effect across “NUGENT” “by Stern” and the blast coming from the shot gun in the backglass artwork – just to add some extra flare to the backglass.

I also replaced the dodgy lock with a brand new one.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/backglass_new_lock.jpg

I did some searching online for replacement plastic bezels for the lights – even second hand ones or NOS (new old stock), but couldn’t find anything. I had some thick black cardboard left over from the bezel I made for my pole position machine and decided to craft up some small bezels myself.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/bulb_bezel_2.jpg

With the bezels made up, they were stapled into position. This helped ensure areas like "ball in play" and "tilt" and the player numbers didn't receive light from other bulbs. If I ever track down some proper plasic parts for this, I'll be sure to grab some.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/backglass_bulbs_replaced.jpg

Time to look at the playfield again.

The original Nugent machines came with solid red lane guides at the top of the playfield. They look OK, but are a little dull. When looking around at various pinball spare parts shops I spied a few transparent red guidesthat would look awesome, so I purchased them. Replacing them was only 5 minutes work.

This is how the original red guards look:
http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_oldlaneguides.jpg

I replaced them with new transparent red line guides which look much nicer – especially in the dark with the lights shining through.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_newlaneguides.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_newlaneguides_2.jpg

Next up, I wanted to adjust how lenient the return ally’s are on each side. I constantly find the ball going down the sides to the point where I feel I'm being cheated - and it's less fun. So I moved both posts down to close the gap. The ball still goes down there, but much less often now.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_right_return.jpg

One of the bulbs in the pop bumpers was not working, so decided to replace the bulbs in all 3 at the same time. As with most of the other bulbs, they were #44′s, so I replaced all with brand new #47′s. The cap plastic has burnt on all 3, so I've ordered replacement caps.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_popbumpers.jpg

You can see the burn/melted points from on top too
http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/bumpercap_old.jpg

I sourced 3 new caps with the same star pattern, and replaced them.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/bumpercap_old_2.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/bumpercap_new.jpg

The playfield is looking quite nice under lights right now:

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_atnight.jpg

I purchased some blue flipper rubber and decided to try out how it looked. I had gotten used to playing with the yellow, but will try out the blue for a bit and see if it sticks :)

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/flippers_blue.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/flippers_blue_2.jpg

The original leg levellers that came with the machine were impossible to adjust, so I decided to simply replace them – at the cost of under $10, it was an easy decision to make. With some effort I got them off and replaced with the new ones – looking much better and they have been adjusted a few times to improve the gameplay. I’m pretty happy with where they are at now. It was interesting to see how much the gameplay is modified when increasing the height.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/leglevellers_new.jpg

I find the 5X multiplier isn’t fancy enough. The 2X multiplier is green and the 3X multiplier is yellow, but the 5X is just a normal light colour, which I find boring. When I hit 5X - I want it to stand out - so let's change it. Replacing the insert was not an option as I could not track down a 5X insert. (If anyone has one or knows where I can source one, please let me know)

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/multiplier_5x_old.jpg

I purchased a blue bulb to use instead:

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/multiplier_5x_new.jpg

In the dark, it looks awesome – with the lights on it’s less obvious - and this is due to the fact it's just the bulb adding the colour, not the insert. But I like the fact it’s a different colour – it feels more rewarding to see a new colour light up when you achieve that 5X multiplier!

Time to look at the coin door. The coin door on my Nugent isn’t too bad. It has some rust, and the bolts could do with a polish, but otherwise it’s fine. I wanted to make a few minor tweaks to it though.

I firstly gave it a good wipe down and clean, removing built up dust, gunk and what looked like the remains of a drink spill.

I purchased a credit button decal and added that

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/coindoordecal.jpg

When I fired up the machine for the first time, I noticed that the light on the left coin decal didn’t light up. Opening up the coin door showed that the coin mech on the left was not installed, which would explain why the bulb had been removed. I really wanted to add a second coin mech, just so coins could be accepted on both sides.

A quick search on ebay turned one up and for $20 delivered, I snapped it up. It was already configured for 20c coins and was a match for my existing coin mech.

One of the previous owners of the machine had installed a microswitch in place of the second coin mech. It was attached to the frame in such a way that when the coin return button was pressed (on the front of the coin door), it would add a credit to the machine. I thought this was an excellent idea as it avoids adding new buttons to the coin door or side panels of the pinball machine. I wanted to keep the microswitch so I could easily add credits. It couldn’t remain in it’s current position and hooked up to the coin return button as it would be in the way of the new coin mech.

I had a hunt through my arcade spare parts and found the frame for a leaf switch button would fit nicely into to the third coin mech position. Using the frame, I attached the microswitch up using the existing holes in the frame and then put it into the coin door where the third coin mech would have sat.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/coinmechsandswitch.jpg

One last thing I wanted to adjust was the coin/game setting on the right coin mech. The coin door itself can support up to 3 coin mechs. My machine only has two installed and the plate on the front only has support for two coin slots. The middle coin mech was already configured for 1 coin = 1 game. The coin mech on the right was configured to 2 coins = 3 games.

The coin/game settings are controlled by 3 separate sets of switched on the game board. Switches 1 to 5 control coin slot 2 (middle), 9 to 13 control coin slot 3 (right) and 28 to 30 control coin slot 1 (left). Interesting the coin slot 1 only has 3 switches available compared to the 5 allotted to coin slots 2 and 3. To achieve 1 game = 1 credit, I only needed to set switch 2 from each set to on. I had originally thought the coin mech on the right was coin mech 1 (looking at it from the inside of the door), but it’s actually coin mech 3 – which makes sense when looking at it from the outside of the door. No doubt this can actually be customised based on the wiring – but I will leave it as is.

I wanted to make some more cosmetic changes. The old buttons has faded in colour and were quite dirty. They are cheap to replace, so wanted to do it. I wanted to keep the same colour white button housing as it’s a nice clean white, but the buttons will now be transparent red (instead of white). You can see the difference when the old and new buttons are along side each other.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/newnugentbuttons.jpg

Replacing the buttons was as simple as undoing 2 screws each side, popping the old plastic out and putting the new buttons in it’s place. I double checked the switches to ensure they still made a clean connect when the buttons were pressed and also gave each one a clean with a random business card I had handy.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/newbuttonsinstalled.jpg

Since I was in the area of the buttons, I wanted to rebuild the shooter. The shaft was (very) well used and sticking at times. The handle has seen better days and the springs no longer as effective as they could be. The white beehive was also faded, scratched and dirty. To replace the whole thing was going to cost around $15 - $20, so decided why not.

I removed the shooter and disassembled it.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/shooterdisasssembled.jpg

Using a new shaft, springs and beehive, I put everything back together and then screwed back into the machine. It has come up looking great. It’s interesting that a lot of shooter shafts these days are slightly shorter than the original ones. The new one I’ve used is 5mm-8mm shorter. The new plunger feels much nicer and the springs make a big difference.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/newnugentshooter.jpg

The only thing I'm disappointed with on the rebuild is the shooter shaft is not quite as long as the original. This one is sold as a "universal" rod and measures 7-7/8". The original one was over 8 inches, but I've not been able to source one of this length. It works, but I suspect the extra length will improve it more.

Last part for now - rebuilding the flippers. The flippers on my Nugent are in need of some attention. While I can make any shot on the table with them, they often bounce when catching the ball. This sometimes acts as a trampoline by making the ball jump or causing the ball the bounce off in unexpected directions.

I purchased two sets of flipper rebuild kits. They only came in sets of two, so I will have a left flipper kit spare once all three flippers have been rebuilt. First step was to get the play field lifted up so I could get access to the flipper parts below the play field. I decided to start with the left flipper since it was the worst of all three.

Here is a picture of the left flipper before I began:

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/leftflipper1.jpg

I removed the coil stop, along with the coil. Then the plunger, bushing and finally the frame. I now had access to all the parts and could start replacing the worn out parts with new ones.

I was worried the bushing might be damaged and be part of the issue I was seeing with the flipper. But it turned out to be OK. It just needed a good clean. I really wanted to replace them, but sadly could not source the correct parts. The bushing on the left is the one out of my machine and the one on the right is one I purchased hoping it would fit.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/flipperbushing.jpg

Here is a photo of the old and new flipper components:

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/leftflipper_rebuildparts.jpg

Installed all the parts, and one new flipper.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/leftflipper_rebuilt.jpg

I went through the same steps to rebuild both right flippers. I also decided to remove the faded old white flipper bats and replace them with new yellow bats.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/yellowflipperbats.jpg

The flipper rebuild was a great success. The flippers are much stronger now and I now need to adjust to using them. I used to be able to use the weakness in them to hit certain targets, but now I’ll have to get some experience up with the new flippers for hitting targets.


So I've been busy.

There is sill more to do:

Drop Targets - I've sourced replacement targets as the painted stars are worn (see previous image). Also, during gameplay sometimes the game does not register that all 3 have been dropped. It only happens sometimes and can often be fixed with a well placed shot at the dropped targets which seems to trigger the reset - so maybe a switch not connecting properly? I'll be looking at that soon.

Pop Bumpers - The bulbs flicker during gameplay, so want to take a closer look at the connections there.

Player 4 score - One segment of the player 4 score is missing - sometimes. Right now it's working, but that could change any moment. I've sourced replacement parts which I'm told will fix it. I don't want to bother touching it until it's not working again.

Playfield surface - needs a proper clean, the use of some novus 2 and some wax. I'll be doing this last since it will probably mean i'll be without the ability to play the machine for a little bit.

I've also kept all of the original parts, incase I decide to revert anything back.

wiredoug
17th January 2014, 08:27 PM
very smooth ..keep at it.
Now you have the backbox open you can check all the boards are in good order ( no bulging capacitors etc)

rod71
17th January 2014, 09:22 PM
Great post!. Love your enthusiasm :)

Did you remove the apron and give it a clean under there?. 30 years of encrusted filth!

Not sure about those Williams flipper bats. Might have to report this to the Classic Stern police ;)

Jesder
17th January 2014, 09:29 PM
Great post!. Love your enthusiasm :)

Did you remove the apron and give it a clean under there?. 30 years of encrusted filth!

Not sure about those Williams flipper bats. Might have to report this to the Classic Stern police ;)

I have that on my to do list (remove apron). I got under the plastics at the top and that was an eye opener - so can't wait to see what's lurking down there..

Yeah the flipper bats - they don't have a W on them - I made sure to avoid a branded version :) However if you (or anyone) can point me in the direction of coloured bats shaped like the original Stern, i'll go place an order right now :) I like the old style better, but could not find anything that suited - white is boring :)

rod71
17th January 2014, 09:44 PM
Yeah the flipper bats - they don't have a W on them - I made sure to avoid a branded version :) However if you (or anyone) can point me in the direction of coloured bats shaped like the original Stern, i'll go place an order right now :) I like the old style better, but could not find anything that suited - white is boring :)

These could look choice. Dont think you can get them locally though.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-3994-2

Jesder
17th January 2014, 10:13 PM
The star caps I pictured above came from marco specialties, along with a few other things.

Not sure on the transparent part (and the ridges) of them though.. I'd love a good solid yellow or blue.

- - - Updated - - -

I should add too that as part of the play field clean and wax, I plan to level the inserts - which is why I'm leaving all that until last.

I've found it really difficult to find exact part numbers for various components of the machine. I've seen newer machine manuals break down the entire assembly of flippers and bumpers and targets, etc so you can easily source a specific spring, or piece of plastic. But the Nugent manual lacks all of that detail. I've seen a book on Marco Specialties that supposedly has part numbers for all the older Stern games (Nugent included), so may purchase that shortly to aid in tracking parts down.

illawarra_steelers
17th January 2014, 10:39 PM
wow..i enjoyed reading that so much! thanks for taking the time to firstly post all that and secondly for all the work you put in.

it is awesome to see all your enthusiasm for your game..a game that brings back so many great memories when the game was on location..

will go as far as saying the above post is my fave on aussie arcade for the past 12 months..

keep at it mate..you have done really well!

Fire_Power
18th January 2014, 07:06 AM
The one post super cleanup job - great post, thanks for taking the time to show it all. Cool pin and it'll play a heap better now.

Jesder
18th January 2014, 09:09 AM
Thanks guys :)

There was actually more content originally, but I found that AA has a 20,000 character & 40 image limit per post. So I had to go back and remove all emoticons, along with a few photos and trim down some parts.

I've really have enjoyed getting hands on with the machine - just as much as playing it. I like to log/record things as I go - photos come in handy also when trying to put things back together ;)

I did have some sound issues which I didn't go into above and will add a future post in this thread about (once I'm satisfied the issue has been resolved). Some here will remember a thread where I explained some sound issues I was having. Although they were resolved (at the time), the issue surfaced again and again until sound never came back. But i'll go further into that later.

I'll be adding more content here too as I address the remaining issues.

Thanks also to the people who have been kind enough to PM me with details about things I was looking for!

Homepin
18th January 2014, 11:46 AM
Excellent stuff, a great read and an even better result - well done.

A comment on the flipper switch - I think you will find the contacts are tungsten and will possibly need filing with a points file. They are different to the other "computer controlled" switches that are gold flashed and are cleaned using a piece of card and NEVER filed.

Jesder
18th January 2014, 02:23 PM
Excellent stuff, a great read and an even better result - well done.

A comment on the flipper switch - I think you will find the contacts are tungsten and will possibly need filing with a points file. They are different to the other "computer controlled" switches that are gold flashed and are cleaned using a piece of card and NEVER filed.

Does that apply to all switched on a machine of this age? Or only the flipper switches?

Thanks for the tip though :)

JoshZ
18th January 2014, 03:39 PM
A fantastic and thoroughly comprehensive read. Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to share your journey so far :)
I wish you all the best with your Pin journey and hope to see some more updates soon.
I love this time in a pinball journey, all the tinkering and getting your head in and learning heaps as you go. And all the cool stuff - bulb changes and rubber replacements etc etc .. then standing back with a beer admiring all your work ;).
Gotta love pinball!

rod71
18th January 2014, 03:46 PM
What is really cool about the way you're going over this machine and getting to know it, is the day you get hold of a 90's machine you'll feel right at home. Although they are more complex, a lot of the theory of operation carries over to them. So it wont seem so daunting.

Way to go man :)

Homepin
18th January 2014, 05:48 PM
Does that apply to all switched on a machine of this age? Or only the flipper switches?

Thanks for the tip though :)

Generally only the cabinet flipper switches - it's pretty easy to tell the difference - the gold flashed ones connect to the switch matrix and don't carry any current to speak of, the heavy switching is done by the transistors.

The cabinet flipper switches carry the full current of the flipper coils and you can see by looking at the contacts they are MUCH larger and beefier than the gold flashed ones. These can be filed with glee.....

Railways
18th January 2014, 10:58 PM
Great thread and good reading. I haven't seen a lot of resto threads on the older Sterns here. well documented with lots of pics, job well done I'd reckon;)

Jesder
1st February 2014, 02:08 PM
I've been a bit quiet on my Nugent lately - more playing than tinkering :)

I've got a batch of parts arriving in a week or so to fix up a few more things, so will hopefully have more work to report shortly.

I have been meaning to get under the apron for awhile and check it out, so decided to do it last night.

The apron itself isn't in bad shape. There are a few marks across the "for amusement only" text and some very minor scratches around the edges. But overall it's clean, solid and the artwork clear.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/apron_start.jpg

Before getting under the apron, I wanted to pull the instruction cards out and clean away any dirt on the plastic protector and anything that had collected underneath. I started with the price/replay card. This looks like an original to me given the colouring of the paper. It's in decent condition and only has some excess glue of some kind over what looks like a price value. The plastic cover has coloured a bit but it's not too bad. I gave the plastic a wipe down and cleared away dirt and dust that had collected under the paper. Can the plastic cover be replaced easily enough? Where can you source these?

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/game_info.jpg

I then moved onto the instruction card. The paper for this one feels a bit different - slightly thicker - and hasn't coloured like the other. Not sure if that means this is a repro or NOS, but it's in better shape - although showing some signs of age. The card actually has printing on two sides. The plastic cover on this side has the same aging signs, although is still very usable. I gave everything a wipe down as per the other side and then put it back together. Something to note that's different on this side is some minor scratching under the card.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_instructions.jpg

Then it was time to remove the apron. The photo probably doesn't show it well enough, but there was some serious dirt and crap that's been hidden here for who knows how long. The white coating on the large washers was very flaky and leaving dust everywhere when moved. A nice later of dirt/dust covered the playfield under the apron. The solanoid and plunger were covered in black dust and dirt had collected around the metal rails/frames.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/apron_underside.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/apron_removed.jpg

One thing I noted was the kicker uses a metal "foot" (I have no idea what to call it :p) to kick the ball out. Should this have some rubber or something over it to avoid damaging the ball? Those with an eagle eye will also note the new looking red rubber on the post in this photo. I noticed early on that when the ball drained down the centre, it would often hit this post. The post was covered in dirt and I was concerned about the metal ball hitting a metal post at speed with no protection. Without removing the apron I was able to clean the post and slide on a rubber sleeve to protect the ball. I'm not sure if anything should be on this post, but it made sense to me to protect the ball to minimise damage to the play field.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_kicker.jpg

Because there was dirt build up around the base of the metal rails and fences, I wanted to remove as much as possible. I also removed the metal cover that sits over the shooter. After removing all but two parts I got to cleaning as much as I could. I only had limited time to

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/shooter_casing.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/apron_rails.jpg

Given the amount of crap around the solanoid, I decided to detach it so I could give it some attention too.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/kicker_coil.jpg

With pretty much everything removed I cleaned the parts as best I could. I was wondering what the best method for cleaning the metal is? Steel wool and brasso? I'm not too worried about it looking flash since they live under the apron and no one can see them - but I'd like them to have minimal impact on the condition of the ball - any thoughts?

Anyway, once the parts were given a good clean and the playfield cleaned up also, I reassembled everything. I suspect I'll be back under the apron in the near future to give it some additional attention. I'm really interested in how to best look after the metal ramp and kicker to prevent (or at least minimise) damage to the ball.




Something else I've been wanting to do for awhile is re-replace the ball shooter. In my last post I showed how I rebuild the shooter, which included replacing the rod itself. The reason I replaced the original rod is because it was no longer smooth and had seen much better days. I have read that some people recommend sanding it to smooth it out - but given how used it looked, I wanted to get a new one.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/original_rod.jpg

The problem with the replacement rod is it's a generic rod - which turns out to be roughly 10mm shorter than the original rod. While this doesn't sound like much, it resulted in the rubber tip on the rod only just connecting with the ball when it's at rest in the start lane. Size does matter and 1cm can make all the difference.. ;)

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/tip_too_short.jpg

This actually has an impact on the start of each ball as I could easily hit the bonus roll over and land the ball in the 9000 point lane by pulling pulling the shooter as far back as possible - every time - there was little skill required. It also meant the power of the shot was much less. Because the shot was less powerful too, it also never rebounded with enough power to hit a small target at the top. The target is only worth 10 points, but I don't like the fact part of the game was removed and part of it was made easier.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/toptarget.jpg

First step was to dismantle the shooter assembly. As you can see in this picture of the two rods lined up, there is a difference of roughly 10mm.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/rodcompare1.jpg

With that done I substituted in the new rod and reassembled.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/rodcompare2.jpg

Then it was back into the machine. The shooter tip now sits that 10mm higher, making better contact with the ball and it also does a much better job of putting the ball into play.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/newshooter1.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/newshooter2.jpg

I did like the black handle - but I think the metallic look of the new one will grow on me. I think it's closer to the original anyway :) I'm glad to have finally got around to sorting this out. It was quite tough to find a rod that was the correct size - most places I came across only had the generic kind or shorter.



I should have more to report in the next week or so. I've got some replacement bats on order which will let Rod sleep better at night ;) I will also be doing a service of the 3 pop bumpers and 2 drop target assemblies too. They have all shown a few issues - but I suspect most it will be resolved with some cleaning and reflowing solder. I've also got a small custom mod in the works that even the stern police will approve of - but more on that next time :)

rod71
1st February 2014, 02:56 PM
Great job mate. That apron looks pretty good. Just gotta be careful as the red and blue paint is ultra thin and will rub off easily.

Lol yes looking forward to sleeping better after the batts are changed. Hehe.

I have contacted Constable brado from the stern police, who will be keeping a watchful eye on proceedings.

Carry on.

Fire_Power
1st February 2014, 03:53 PM
I use windex with wet and dry for the under apron metal work.

illawarra_steelers
1st February 2014, 04:45 PM
everytime i see and read these post makes me want to get a nugent!

just to add a few things..if you're not fully happy with the card tray you can buy decals for the trays here
http://www.pinballrescue.net/Decals_Apron_Stern.html

with the cards it's easy to make reproduction cards from here

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

just copy the .pdf files and either print them out on card stock or take them to officeworks and get them to do it, costs sfa..just trim to size, makes a massive difference.

brado
1st February 2014, 04:45 PM
I have contacted Constable brado from the stern police, who will be keeping a watchful eye on proceedings.

Carry on.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6Slm3wziAc

I have been monitoring the progress and all is satisfactory thus far......keep up the good work son........

Any stuff-up and you will be dealing with commandant Ballywannabe and you don't want that to happen.......

Homepin
1st February 2014, 04:54 PM
.....for the plastic that covers the cards try a stationary store - there are dozens of different types of plastic folders that you can chop up to make them from.

Also, chuck away that metal sleeve inside the coil (and ALL coils for that matter) and replace it with a nylon one. Cheap as chips and stops the metal filings from getting into everything.

Jesder
1st February 2014, 05:18 PM
Just gotta be careful as the red and blue paint is ultra thin and will rub off easily.

Yeah I found this out. Where the paint has been removed on the "Amusement" text, there was previously some sort of glue / sticky substance that had caked on. I was able to remove it OK, but did notice some colour coming off on the soft cloth I was using. At that point I backed off and just tidied it up as best I could without removing any more of the paint. Thankfully I didn't go to town on it before realising ;)

The white paint has started to come off where the ball drains on the left and right, but not much I can do about that :(


just to add a few things..

Thanks for those links! I didn't know you could get a decal kit for the apron. I've booked marked it for future in case needed. Almost tempted to buy one and put aside should the need ever arise.


.....for the plastic that covers the cards try a stationary store - there are dozens of different types of plastic folders that you can chop up to make them from.

Also, chuck away that metal sleeve inside the coil (and ALL coils for that matter) and replace it with a nylon one. Cheap as chips and stops the metal filings from getting into everything.

I'll have a hunt around for some plastic that would suit. I thought that maybe it had a part code (everything else seems to ;)) but happy to make some up myself.

I was a little surprised to find the sleeve was metal. The others I've come across so far have all been nylon. I'll look into finding some of the same size and purchase some. I suspect there will be more, so will grab a few to be safe. Thanks for the tip.

illawarra_steelers
1st February 2014, 05:21 PM
.....for the plastic that covers the cards try a stationary store - there are dozens of different types of plastic folders that you can chop up to make them from.



tried officeworks last december and the only folders they have are clear have the dimpling on them and think they would look terrible..

went to buy some to do all my games..so if anybody has any other ideas please speak up :)

Homepin
1st February 2014, 05:24 PM
tried officeworks last december and the only folders they have are clear have the dimpling on them and think they would look terrible..

went to buy some to do all my games..so if anybody has any other ideas please speak up :)

I found some at a $2 shop not that long ago - cheap shitty ones but excellent clear covers....

Jesder
1st February 2014, 05:29 PM
Also, chuck away that metal sleeve

The stern part number on that coil sleeve is 2A-189, but that doesn't show up in searches.

Does the "189" refer to size or anything which can be used to compare against sleeves produced by Bally or Williams to find a part that would be suitable?

rod71
1st February 2014, 05:54 PM
The stern part number on that coil sleeve is 2A-189, but that doesn't show up in searches.

Does the "189" refer to size or anything which can be used to compare against sleeves produced by Bally or Williams to find a part that would be suitable?

Just measure the length. Forgot which ones i order from rtbb

Jesder
1st February 2014, 06:07 PM
Just measure the length. Forgot which ones i order from rtbb

OK will do. Was hoping I could be lazy and avoid that ;)

Did you see my question about the metal foot on the ball kicker? Should this be covered with some sort of rubber or cover to prevent damage to the ball?

rod71
1st February 2014, 06:24 PM
OK will do. Was hoping I could be lazy and avoid that ;)

Did you see my question about the metal foot on the ball kicker? Should this be covered with some sort of rubber or cover to prevent damage to the ball?

Just as lazy as me not looking up the size for you. Couldn't be arsed ;)

Yeah don't need anything covering the out hole kicker. Shouldnt give you any grief.

Rule of thumb is to inspect your balls every once in a while and attend to them if any irregularities are evident.

wiredoug
1st February 2014, 08:28 PM
tried officeworks last december and the only folders they have are clear have the dimpling on them and think they would look terrible..

went to buy some to do all my games..so if anybody has any other ideas please speak up :)

overhead projector transparencies?

rod71
1st February 2014, 08:53 PM
overhead projector transparencies?

Newsagents might be a good place for that.

Fire_Power
2nd February 2014, 08:09 AM
... The white paint has started to come off where the ball drains on the left and right, but not much I can do about that :( ...

If you're talking about the vertical face of the apron you can stick on a patch of mylar to stop it getting worse. I Use Marbig Quick laminate self adhesive for small patches like this - part no 91180 available from Officeworks for a few $ for a pack of five A4 sheets. I also use it to stop play field wear spots getting worse. Also for the instruction card covers I don't cover them - by the time you print a new versions, I use a sort of ice cream colour card fed flat through a laser printer they look pretty good anyway. Maybe laminating them would give a bit of a sheen?

PBR website has a good section which cross references coil sleeve sizes and manufacturer part numbers, but as others have said just buy by size - needs to be long enough to locate the coil within the brackets and not too long so that the coil when pulled in hits the sleeve.

Great thread and pics too - thanks.

Jesder
2nd February 2014, 08:25 AM
If you're talking about the vertical face of the apron you can stick on a patch of mylar to stop it getting worse. I Use Marbig Quick laminate self adhesive for small patches like this - part no 91180 available from Officeworks for a few $ for a pack of five A4 sheets. I also use it to stop play field wear spots getting worse. Also for the instruction card covers I don't cover them - by the time you print a new versions, I use a sort of ice cream colour card fed flat through a laser printer they look pretty good anyway. Maybe laminating them would give a bit of a sheen?

PBR website has a good section which cross references coil sleeve sizes and manufacturer part numbers, but as others have said just buy by size - needs to be long enough to locate the coil within the brackets and not too long so that the coil when pulled in hits the sleeve.

Great thread and pics too - thanks.

Yeah I did mean the vertical face. I'll drop past office works today and grab some.

I went and measured a few of the sleeves last night and placed an order with RTBB. I did notice that some of them are different diameters - The sleeves on the drop targets have a bigger diameter than those on the pop bumpers, kicker, etc. RTBB didnt mention much on the diameter, so hopefully I got the right set for the drop targets.

toads
2nd February 2014, 08:26 AM
That's what I used. Pinched (sorry, borrowed) some from work :)

overhead projector transparencies?

Jesder
2nd February 2014, 08:29 AM
That's what I used. Pinched (sorry, borrowed) some from work :)

Make sure you take them back then when you're done :p

Rich
2nd February 2014, 09:09 AM
Just thought I'd mention that I put a piece of heatshrink over the metal part of the ball kicker that comes in contact with the ball. Cheap n' easy way to stop metal on metal contact.

- - - Updated - - -

And.....as Nugent has a kickout hole......I use the clear circle pieces that you can get from automotive windscreen places.
They come in a 4 pack on a small section of paper........used to cover chips in windscreens.
They are a good size, right thickness, replaceable, cheap, and when put in the right spot help prevent further damage to the playfield.
I have only used these on a playfield already plasticised, might lift some artwork if replacing one on an unprotected playfield.

Jesder
2nd February 2014, 12:13 PM
Picked up the marbig laminate today, but couldn't see a reasonable pack of overhead transparencies - the base pack was $20 - and I only really need 1 sheet. Will hunt around online to see if I can find a 5 pack or something. I seem to remember being able to buy individual sheets many (many) years ago when I was studying.

rod71
2nd February 2014, 12:36 PM
Picked up the marbig laminate today, but couldn't see a reasonable pack of overhead transparencies - the base pack was $20 - and I only really need 1 sheet. Will hunt around online to see if I can find a 5 pack or something. I seem to remember being able to buy individual sheets many (many) years ago when I was studying.

Try your local newsagent for individual sheets

toads
2nd February 2014, 12:59 PM
Business shirt box lid works well too :)

bossninja17
4th February 2014, 07:41 PM
It's been weeks - make that months - since I have turned on mu Nugent. Reading this post and thread has inspired me to make a date with mine this weekend.

Jesder
11th February 2014, 08:30 PM
First up for this update is the lock down bar. The condition of the bar itself is OK. It's a little worn and has a few scratches, but is solid and doesn't need replacing. The issue it does has however is it's loose on the left side and does not lock down properly. I can lift the left side up with my hand.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/loose_lockdown_bar.jpg

First thing I did was remove the bar itself, lift the playfield and have a look at what was occurring when the bar was supposed to be locked. I could see that the metal plate that should be locking it in place has sagged. I'm actually wondering if there should be some sort of hole/loop on the far left that the metal plate shown would slide into to ensure it does not sag? There didn't seem to be a way to actually remove this to bend it back the other way, so it may have to stay like this.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/lockdown_internal.jpg

Next up I wanted to have a look under the lockdown bar to see if I could adjust anything which would allow it to work. Turns out I can. There are two screws that can be adjusted - one on each side. I removed the one on the left, set it to an level that would allow the lockdown bar to actually be locked into place and problem solved.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/lockdown_bar.jpg

If I can find a way to straighten out that sliding metal plate under the lockdown bar on the cabinet, then I will do that as that will properly fix the issue.

Another issue that cropped up in the last week was the first digit on the player 1 score display. I had seen this digit show signs of flickering about a month ago, but it never really went much further and was only a rare occurrence. This week though it decided to play up regularly.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_score_display_broken.jpg

First it started as shown in the image. The first digit should be a 7. Instead there are missing segments and you might notice the lit up part at the base of the digit which should not be there. After being like this for a few minutes, the digit became worse with more segments missing until nothing was displayed. The other 5 digits on that display were fine however.

I opened up the back box and swapped the player 1 and 2 cables over to try and isolate the issue. This test showed it was not the cables or MPU as the player 1 score displayed fine on the second display. So it was the display board. I pulled it out and opened up Clays guide to see what I could find out about the displays. Thankfully it seemed like my issue was fixable. I first tested the resistors and they came back ok. I had a look at the solder side of the PCB and noticed a few points where the solder could do with reflowing. I got my soldering iron out and reflowed the solder along each pin on the connectors cables and the few points where it looked like the solder had become loose.

I do have spare resistors and transistors I could put into the pcb (I purchased a batch of parts back when I noticed the issue just in case), but I wanted to go over the basics first. I put the display back into the machine and fired it up. All good :) First digit was back displaying correctly again and without any issues. I left it to run for 30 minutes while I did some other things and the issue did not return. It's something I'll be monitoring over the coming weeks, so if it does flare up again, I'll try replacing the resistors and transistors outlined by Clay.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_score_display_fixed.jpg

A few things I wanted to touch on before I continue. I sometimes talk about keeping all the parts I replace on the machine. Here is the box they are currently fitting into. If I ever sell the machine, I want to be able to pass on all the original pieces I've pulled out in case the future owner wants to use them again. Anything that's actually broken gets throw out, but otherwise it's kept.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_old_parts.jpg

I've also taken the time to print out a lot of information and put them in folders I keep handy in the garage. Anything I think will be useful when working on various aspects of the Nugent goes in here. I don't have a computer in the garage, so having information at hand where I need it comes in handy. Plus it's sometimes interesting just to read :) I've got information specific to the Nugent, bally and stern machines, similar machines, parts, assemblies, soundboard info, etc. Lots of good information.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_binders.jpg

Anyway, back to the interesting stuff...

I wanted to take a look at the Knocker next. It works - and fires off every time I'm awarded a free game. Makes a loud, horrible sound - but that's how it's supposed to be - I have to admit though there is something rewarding about hearing it go off :) I decided to give the assembly a clean, replace the coil sleeve and check over the wiring. One issue I have noticed is that when it does fire, parts of the game seem to "pause". The score still ticks over, but things like the pop bumpers go inactive for a few moments. Not sure why this is - any ideas?

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_knocker.jpg

I disassembled the knocker to give its components a good clean.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_knocker_parts.jpg

The sleeve was very dirty, as was the plunger. I cleaned it all up and then reassembled. The pausing issue is still present, so not sure what to do about that other than hit google and research. I know there are some components in the machine to deter rough play by making the game inactive if players are violent with it, but I'm not sure that's what this is.

I recently noticed a few crappy looking white posts on the playfield. This is how the machine shipped, but they look crap compared to the other posts dotted around the playfield.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/crap_posts.jpg

I wanted to replace these with more attractive posts, so purchased some thin red posts to swap them with. It's a minor cosmetic thing, but the posts look like cheap spacers, and given their age look unattractive - so they are now off the playfield and into the old parts box ;)

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nice_posts.jpg

After doing some work under the apron the other week, I decided to revisit it again this week to finish off a few things that I had left incomplete.

On the vertical face of the apron (where the ball drains out of play), some paint has worn away where the ball has constantly rubbed against it over the years. To minimise any future wear, I purchased some quick laminate sheets (as suggested by Fire_Power to cut up and place over the affected area. I cut up two small slices to run the length of the wall and placed them on the vertical face of the apron. This should prevent further damage being done.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/laminate.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/laminate_over_drain.jpg

When I had a look over the apron last time, I looked at the state of the instruction cards and plastic sheeting over them. The plastic had started to yellow with age, along with the cards. I decided to print up some replacement instruction cards and get some new plastic to sit over the top of them. I had some left over card stock from somewhere and I purchased some overhead transparencies (as suggested by wiredoug) to cut up.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/transparent_sheets.jpg

Using the transparencies was OK, but the thickness didn't match the original. This left it feeling a little cheap. It does the job and protects the instruction cards, but I wouldn't mind keeping an eye out for a better replacement. Another alternative (suggested earlier also) would be to laminate the cards. I will give this some consideration too. The old instruction cards and plastic covers have gone into my binders (mentioned earlier). Here are the new instruction cards in place:

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/new_instructions_1.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/new_instructions_2.jpg

I ordered some replacement coil sleeves since I last looked under the apron and wanted to replace the metal sleeve used by the ball kicker. It's the only metal one I've seen on the machine so far thankfully. I completely removed the kicker assembly this time from the playfield, so I could give it all a really good clean.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_kicker_removed.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_kicker_parts.jpg

I've been having a small issue with the kicker. It works fine, but I've noticed it seems to stick once it kicks the ball out before returning back to it's normal position. I figured a good clean might fix this, but sadly it hasn't. I'm going to have to watch it in action to see exactly what is going on. It has no impact on the game, but it's not behaving exactly as it should - so it's marked for further investigation :)

I also added a small piece of rubber around the metal foot that kicks the ball out to protect the ball from damage.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/kicker_foot_rubber.jpg

I have been meaning to give the slinghots a good clean for awhile and there was no time like the present. I removed the coil and frame for cleaning from both sides.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_slingshot_clean.jpg

After removing the assemblies from both slingshots, I cleaned the parts down and replaced the old coil sleeves. I didn't bother replacing the coil stops.

Since I was working on the slingshots, I decided it would be a good time to adjust the contact switches on them and the rest of the playfield. I took the plastics off the other areas of the playfield, cleaning and adjusting the switches for each to make them a little more sensitive. It took a few goes adjusting the slingshot switches to ensure they were not too sensitive, but all the switches are now cleaned and in a reasonable position to award points during gameplay without triggering unexpectedly

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/switch_adjust_2.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/switch_adjust_1.jpg

With the playfield up, I wanted to give some attention to the flipper button switches also. I used a fine file (as suggested by Homepin) on the flipper button switches as the left flipper still felt a little soft, even after the rebuild. I suspected it was not getting a clean connection. Checking the connection showed some caked on crap, so I gave both left and right switches a clean and file. I'll monitor this over the coming week as I play to see what sort of difference it's made.

You will have seen the new flipper bats in some of the photos above - but I'll mention them specifically here. Since I put the thin yellow bats on, I've had my phone tapped, letter box bombed, credit cards cancelled and mysterious letters in the mail from Stern activists everywhere. After Rod was kind enough to point me in the direction of some nice looking fat bats, I decided to purchase them - my life has returned to normal since :p

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/blue_nugent_bats.jpg

Seriously though - I didn't realise how much the game play would change due to the shape of the bat. It's obvious this machine was build for the old bats, and these are the only kind that should be used on it. The thin bats work against the playfield design and it's a good lesson for me to be aware of such things moving forward :)


and lastly...

I've wanted to add some customised features to my Nugent to make it stand out from other machines. Changing the colours on flipper bats and rubbers is OK, but anyone can do that. I wanted to give my machine a little personal touch without causing damage to it (in otherwise - make it completely reversible). So I contacted a good mate of mine ztdgz for some help. For those you haven't seen my Pole Position cockpit restoration on the arcade forum, ztdgz reproduced the screen bezel artwork. I wanted to add some custom decals to my machine.

First up - the stationary target.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/stationary_target_old.jpg

At the top of the playfield there is a lone stationary target that nets you a cool 5000 points and increases the bonus for hitting certain roll over switches. In it's pure form - it's just a white target. Taking the blue and yellow explosion from the ball drain artwork, Mike produced a small decal to match. The blue and yellow pattern appears along the plastic set too, so it made sense to model the decal off the existing artwork. I purchased some glossy white peal and stick paper and printed up a few versions of the decal. I then got some steel wool and cleaned up the metal pin in the middle of the target. Using a hole punch, cut a perfect hole out of the middle of the decal and then applied it to the target. The result:

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_target_decal.jpg

But I didn't want to stop there. I love custom flipper bats. While I couldn't create some custom molded flippers, I figured a custom decal on top might be enough. There was only one choice in decal for the flipper - the shotgun guitar. This looks awesome on the backglass, so why not duplicate it onto the flippers (I imagine the shotty firing with every shot made). Mike excelled himself here. The original plan was to print them onto peal and stick transparent sheets. This sadly didn't work out how I had thought it would. The transparent blue of the flipper bats made the guitar decal almost invisible when applied.

Next idea was to try the same glossy white paper used for the target decal. We did two versions - the differene being the gradient on the guitar. There were also red and blue versions, but we felt yellow suited the bats best.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_flipper_decal.jpg

I cut the decal out slightly smaller than the size of the bat to allow some of the blue to show through. The stern logo on the decal was done to match the one shown on the backglass.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nuget_flipper_decal_done.jpg


That's all for now. This post turned out longer than I had expected. I had planned to pull apart the drop targets and pop bumpers and give them a solid service - but that will be next time. I'll probably start with the drop targets and then move onto the pop bumpers. I've just about worked my way through the entire machine. There is still a lot to learn about it though, but that will only come when things break or begin failing and I need to address them. Two months ago I didn't know how to get the playfield lifted up or even open the back box - let alone service any of the parts. It's been a thoroughly enjoyable addiction since getting my machine to have my head inside looking at how it works and fixing/improving things along the way. I'm wanting to pick up another machine from the 79-85 era I think as I love the playfield designs on these. I do plan to level the inserts, touch up some paint and fix the playfield surface up as best I can, but that will be once I have another machine in the house to play while this one goes offline.

Until next time :)

illawarra_steelers
11th February 2014, 08:45 PM
that's awesome!

i'm sure everyone here is really enjoying your posts on this game!

gotta say if this your first crack at restoring a game, sure looking forward to the next one..

thanks for taking the time to put all that together..:cool:

Kayno
11th February 2014, 09:00 PM
Yep, loving this thread! Very inspiring also! Must say I'm not a fan of the flipper bats.. That just my opinion though. Keep the updates coming!

Jesder
11th February 2014, 09:25 PM
The decal or colours?

rod71
11th February 2014, 09:48 PM
Great job matey! Lost me with the flipper decals, but whatever works for you :)

Now with the knocker and a short loss of power to the coils, I think you'll find it's a programming bug. On Trident and Dracula it will do the same thing each time the drop targets reset. If the ball happens to hit a bumper in that half second, it won't score/fire the coil.

Jesder
11th February 2014, 09:53 PM
Great job matey! Lost me with the flipper decals, but whatever works for you :)

Now with the knocker and a short loss of power to the coils, I think you'll find it's a programming bug. On Trident and Dracula it will do the same thing each time the drop targets reset. If the ball happens to hit a bumper in that half second, it won't score/fire the coil.

Yeah that's what is happening. I notice it the most on the pop bumpers and I'm pretty sure i've seen it on the slingshots too. Is there a way to fix the bug (replacement chips / reflashing) ?

So the decal isn't getting any love. Is it the white background? Is it the guitar itself? Colour combo?

rod71
11th February 2014, 10:14 PM
Yeah that's what is happening. I notice it the most on the pop bumpers and I'm pretty sure i've seen it on the slingshots too. Is there a way to fix the bug (replacement chips / reflashing) ?

So the decal isn't getting any love. Is it the white background? Is it the guitar itself? Colour combo?

Not as far as I know. There is a guy in the States who did some custom Stern roms a few years ago. Don't know if he did other games apart from Trident and Hot hand. He utilised the extra memory in a pair of 2732's to add some cool features and iron out bugs.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llzCa7vJ9gk

Kayno
12th February 2014, 06:08 AM
The decal or colours?

Decal. If it were me, I wouldn't put anything on there. Your machine though, great work.

imck
13th February 2014, 09:21 PM
Thats a great post you have had fun and learned at the same time
They do breed how many games do you have room for ? lol Imck

Jesder
13th February 2014, 09:43 PM
I took a look at one of the pop bumpers tonight. I had intended to take a few photos and get an idea on how they worked but couldn't help myself, and ended up stripping, cleaning and rebuilding it.

I'll do a more in depth write up once I've done all 3, but here are some photos of it being pulled apart.

http://www.newhighscore.net/images/blog/nugent/nugent_popbumper_assembly.jpg

The dirt build up on top of the plunger (shown above) was amazing. I'd love to know how many years it's been since it was last looked at (if ever).

http://www.newhighscore.net/images/blog/nugent/nugent_popbumper_disassembled.jpg

Reassembled - much cleaner:

http://www.newhighscore.net/images/blog/nugent/nugent_popbumper_rebuilt.jpg


This one is now back in the machine and working better than ever.

Jesder
15th February 2014, 03:31 PM
I'm beginning to run out of things to do on the Nugent now. I've gotten into most corners of the machine and sorted out many issues as I've gone along. There are two main things left to look at - the drop targets and 3 pop bumpers. I'm going to focus on the pop bumpers and get them serviced.

Awhile ago I replaced the 3 caps on the pop bumpers (seen in an earlier post). Now it's time to actually remove all three pop bumper assemblies to clean and service them. At this point the only real complaint I could make about the pop bumpers is sometimes they don't activate when they should. Most likely solved by cleaning and/or adjusting the switch.

There is a bit of work to actually get them out as I found, but once I had managed to do one, the others were much easier. I decided to do one at a time. That way I had two working pop bumpers to use as reference in case I mucked up.

To begin with, I need to remove the cap and also undo two screws that sit inside pop bumper. The two screws attached the pop bumper body to the playfield. But I can't simply lift it up as the bulb socket is soldered under the playfield and the metal ring is attached to the plunger.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_popbumper.jpg

Next up I needed to get under the playfield. There are two nuts that connect the metal ring to the plunger. As you can see in the photo there is HEAPS of crap attached to the spoon, sping, yoke and, well everything. It’s quite sticky to touch.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_popbumper_assembly.jpg

First step was to remove those two nuts, along with the coil, soil stop and frame. This gave me much better access bulb socket so I could remove the wires. With a soldering iron I carefully removed the two wires. I could now lift the pop bumper off the play field.

I put everything down to have a good look at it and take photos. Here you can see the crap that’s built up on top of the plunger and under the yellow skirt. I also captured the new coil stop and sleeve I had on hand to use. But before I go any further, this lot is going to need some serious clean up.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_popbumper_parts.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/popbumper_removed.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/bumper_disassembled.jpg

After some cleaning you can really see the difference on the plunger. I’m kicking myself for not getting a photo of the rebuilt pop bumper at this point.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/bumper_plunger_disassembled.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/cleaned_plunger.jpg

On the third pop bumper I did, I found a slightly different yoke. Each one has a fiber yoke and metal yoke. The metal yoke on this one had a lip, which the others didn’t. It still seemed to fit OK though, so I’ve left it. One of the fibre yokes has started to develop a crack, so I’ll be ordering a new one. It works fine now, but will replace it sooner rather than later.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/different_yoke.jpg

With everything cleaned, I reassembled the different parts of the pop bumper. I basically had to work in reverse from how I removed everything. It was a little fiddly, but by the third pop bumper, I had the routine worked out nicely. I also replaced the plastic spoon that sits below the skirt which connects the switch. The new spoon has an extra lip which helps prevent the skirt from getting stuck. The switch was also cleaned and adjusted to improve the sensitivity.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/reinstalling_bumper.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/new_bumper_top.jpg

The process for each pop bumper was the same, although the back two were a bit tougher to deal with due to other components in the area. In the end though, they have come up looking awesome and function MUCH better during gameplay. The photo doesn't do them justice.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/popbumper_completed.jpg

Next up will be the drop targets. There are also a few globes that are not working correctly which I suspect is the socket as the bulbs are fine. Could be the lamp driver board, but i’ll start with the socket first as it most likely will just need a clean.

The player 1 score has been running flawlessly since my work on it in my last update. The player 4 score has not had any further issues in a long time, although I anticipate that bottom segment will fail again as I didn’t actually do anything to fix it.

The sound issue also seems to have been resolved and Ill do a write up on that shortly too.

Fingers crossed I can get onto the targets tomorrow.

Fire_Power
16th February 2014, 10:11 AM
This is a great thread. Don't worry you'll never fully run out of things to do :)

rod71
16th February 2014, 11:02 AM
Nice job on the bumpers. Did you replace the bodies or just clean them up?.

Jesder
16th February 2014, 11:22 AM
The white plastic bodies I replaced as the old ones had gone yellow over time and were not cleaning up enough. It looked kind of odd to have this really nice clean cap, ring and skirt, but a faded body.

I purchased some replacement skirts and springs too but didn't use them as the existing ones cleaned up nicely, so will just keep the parts handy for future use.

The new bulb sockets were a good decision. Before the lamps would flicker a bit during play. Now they are on constantly without flickering.

I was going to photoshop some decals onto the pop bumpers just for you rod ;)

I laminated the instruction cards today too as I really wasn't happy enough with the plastic transparency over the top of them.

rod71
16th February 2014, 11:33 AM
The white plastic bodies I replaced as the old ones had gone yellow over time and were not cleaning up enough. It looked kind of odd to have this really nice clean cap, ring and skirt, but a faded body.



Cool. Was going to ask what you used to clean them up so well :)


I was going to photoshop some decals onto the pop bumpers just for you rod ;

:punish:

Jesder
16th February 2014, 12:36 PM
A question for the usual suspects:
rod71 Fire_Power wiredoug Homepin illawarra_steelers

Just pulling the drop targets apart and found I don't have a coil sleeve that will fit. The current one is an aluminium one, so keen to replace it.

The coil is a B27 - 2300

The sleeve diameter is much larger than the others. Online stores seem to focus on the sleeve length and not the diameter.

Any ideas on a sleeve that would fit this coil?

can post a pic if that would help

wiredoug
16th February 2014, 12:40 PM
my stern parts book is out on loan but if you take old sleeve to your local parts dealer and ask nicely they would 99% be able to match it up..

Jesder
16th February 2014, 06:57 PM
I will go for a drive next weekend if nothing comes up. Closest supplier is about 40 minutes away + road tolls, so online ordering is preferred :).

I've found the part I need at MarcoSpec, so hopefully can find someone locally to match it.

Had some fun with one set of drop targets this afternoon.

http://www.newhighscore.net/images/blog/nugent/nugent_droptarget_disassembled.jpg

But back together and looking better than ever

http://www.newhighscore.net/images/blog/nugent/nugent_droptargets_complete.jpg

Will do a better write up with more photos once I complete both banks.

(and yes the red star in the middle is deliberate :) )

illawarra_steelers
16th February 2014, 06:58 PM
Just pulling the drop targets apart and found I don't have a coil sleeve that will fit. The current one is an aluminium one, so keen to replace it.





what is the diameter and length of the sleeve? if i have one i'll send..

Jesder
16th February 2014, 07:01 PM
what is the diameter and length of the sleeve? if i have one i'll send..

5/8" diameter and 2" long (so roughly 16mm x 51mm)

Fire_Power
16th February 2014, 07:11 PM
If you have the part number from Marco or the dimensions then have a look on the PBR site or pinballmedic and you might find out more

http://www.pbresource.com/coilsleeve.html

http://www.pinballmedic.net/coil_chart.html

looks like it might be 1 15/16" by 9/16" diameter from PBR site - says they were used in old Sterns

illawarra_steelers
16th February 2014, 07:51 PM
5/8" diameter and 2" long (so roughly 16mm x 51mm)

will check tomorrow mate when out in the shed..will report back :)

Jesder
16th February 2014, 08:13 PM
will check tomorrow mate when out in the shed..will report back :)

Awesome mate thanks for that :D

Jesder
17th February 2014, 10:19 PM
The drop targets - one of the final elements of the game to receive my attention. The Nugent playfield has two banks of 3 drop targets. The first set (located on the left of the playfield) control the special bonus (which is an extra ball & 100,000 points). The second is located on the upper right and controls the bonus multiplier (x2, x3 and x5). Both sets are functional, although sometimes it does not detect when all 3 targets have been dropped (more on this later). The blue star decal on all 6 targets is worn and the white has faded over time. There is also some dirt build up on the targets and the assembly under the playfield.

This is how the drop targets looked to start with:

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/bonus_drop_targets_start.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/multiplier_targets_start.jpg

Originally I was going to just replace the drop targets. I purchased a set of 6 targets from MarcoSpec, but these turned out to be a little different in shape to the originals. The originals are referred to as "tombstones", and looking at their shape you can see why. The new ones have an extra lip on top.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/replacement_drop_targets.jpg

Since the original targets were not actually broken, I was keen to keep them. With some encouragement from Rod, I was able to find some decals (which were much cheaper) and would let me keep the original tombstone shape targets. I can clean the targets up a little, but they will still show the faded white colour on the sides and top - but I prefer the shape of the originals, so I'm going to just clean and add the new decals.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/drop_target_decals.jpg

First up was the bonus target bank. The photo shows it off to be cleaner than it really is. The plunger is sticky, and uses an aluminium coil sleeve. The springs are a little sticky too. Lots of dirt inside the base of the assembly and the switches could do with a clean too.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_target_assembly_1.jpg

An interesting thing I noticed on this bank was the two outer switches have some sort of double switch on them. Not really the best photo, but I don't understand why these two switches have a double switch, while the other 1 (and 3 on the other bank) all have a single. Thoughts?

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/drop_target_switches.jpg

First step was to remove the switches and the coil. Once that was done I could then undo the 4 screws holding the assembly to the playfield. With the parts removed, I put them on the ground ready to disassemble, clean and put back together. An interesting thing I found here was on the second bank of targets, only 3 screws were used. The 4th screw hole had been predrilled, but never used. It's certainly held in place firm with 3, but why not use 4 like the other?

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_target_assembly_2.jpg

At this point a took a few photos of the assembly to make sure I could get it all back together in the correct order. I found the positioning of these plates interesting in that the back plate sits inside the base. Took a photo to make sure I remember this as it seems like something easy to miss.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_target_assembly_3.jpg

At that point I was ready to undo more screws and pull it apart to clean up.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_target_assembly.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_target_assembly_4.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_target_assembly_6.jpg

The assembly from the multiplier bank was dirtier and needed some more attention.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_target_assembly_5.jpg

Some very dirty drop targets:

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/dirty_drop_targets.jpg

I took my time and cleaned parts as best I could. Even used a bit of novus on the drop targets once clean to try and bring them back to life a little. I then added the decals to each target. I decided to having a red star in the middle and a blue start on each outer target to spice it up a little.

I took some time to clean all 6 switches too. I need to order two new coil sleeves to replace the aluminum ones also. Those will be easy to replace though and won't require me to pull the whole thing apart again thankfully.

I really love how simple most of these assemblies are. The way they are designed and built just works so nicely and it makes sense. These older machines are great for getting into and developing an understanding on how parts of the playfield function.

With everything back together and installed again, the drop targets were looking nice:

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_droptargets_complete.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/multiplier_targets_complete.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/drop_targets_replaced.jpg

I mentioned at the start of the post about the drop targets not always registering and i'll go into that more now. I have noticed this issue on both banks - occasionally during a game, I will drop all 3 targets but the game will not register that it's happened. i found that if I hit certain areas of the bank again (with all 3 targets down) the game would eventually recognise they were all down and then award the bonus or advance the multiplier.

At the start of each ball, both banks reset. It really stood out one game a few weeks back where I had dropped one of the multiplier targets but at the start of a new ball, the bank did not reset. This gave me a big clue as to which target on that bank was not working correctly.

I put the game into test mode and started knocking the targets over with my finger to try and replicate the issue. The target on the right had an issue where 3 out of 10 times, it would not register. As you can see here, the far right target has been dropped, but 0 is showing on the display (meaning no switches closed).

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/drop_target_not_registered.jpg

I repeated the same test on the other bank of drop targets, but could not get any consistency in replicating the issue.

The solution to the problem was a slight adjustment in the alignment of the switch at the base of the drop target assembly and a clean of the connection using some thin cardboard. I did this across all 6 switches and tested all of them for about 10 minutes. I made sure to apply different amounts of force with my finger and the issue has not occurred again.

So that's it for the drop target :)

Jesder
18th February 2014, 10:17 AM
will check tomorrow mate when out in the shed..will report back :)

Any luck?

illawarra_steelers
18th February 2014, 10:29 AM
Any luck?

no dice sorry..i did look last night..if you can wait a few weeks you can tack it onto my next pbr order..

Jesder
18th February 2014, 10:34 AM
No worries mate, if I don't have any by then that would be great. Should be able to track some down :)

Jesder
19th February 2014, 09:17 PM
On the home stretch now (in case you missed my posted about the drop targets, look a few posts back - I snuck it in late one night) - the last part of the game under the hood to receive some attention is the saucer kicker. I haven't really had to worry about this at all since it's working fine from day one. But like everything else, it can do with a clean and this is a chance to learn some more about it. In the first photo you can see some dirt built up just below the base of the saucer and on the kicker arm which can't be good for the ball.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_saucer_kicker.jpg

There really isn't much to this thing. A coil, a coil stop, plunger and metal armature to kick the ball back out and a switch to activate it. First step was to undo the coil from the frame, which allowed me to them remove the whole assembly in one go.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/saucer_parts.jpg

After disassembling the parts I gave them all a good clean and replaced the coil sleeve. The spring was covered in gunk and was a little sticky, so that's got much more spring in it.

I found the coil stop on this interesting. Just when I thought I had seen everything there was to see in my machine, it gave me something new to look at. This coil stop is different from the others as it has a bolt through it. I'm assuming this is a way to adjust the power at which the kicker acts when kicking the ball back out into play. I hadn't really considered how (or even if) I could/should change the power at which it comes out at. Right now it throws the ball across to the multiplier drop targets and will drop two at once - which is nice - although maybe a little easy. Nice to know how I can change this now.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/saucer_coilsrop.jpg

With everything cleaned, it was assembled again and put back into the machine.

Something else I wanted to cover was the sound board and the issues I had with the audio from day one. When I first got the machine the sound was very low. Adjusting the speaker volume fixed that but only for a short time. After about one or two games, the audio started to become inconsistent where sounds would sometimes play and others not. Other times the sounds would not play correctly and sound horrible. There was also a lot of static coming from the speaker. It didn't seem to be specific to a set of switches or targets. Putting the game into test mode wasn't much help. The only consistent thing was sound #5 (http://www.aussiearcade.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=5) never played in test mode.

I tried some things like reseating the cables on the sound board and main board and even jiggling the cables while activating a switch to see if that had an effect. Nothing was consistent. What did work initially was switching the machine off, setting the dip switch that controls electronic sounds to off, switching the machine on, then off again and toggling the dip switch back to on. I don't know why that worked - it shouldn't have - and it made no sense. But at the time I didn't care - I had sound back.

That lasted for about a week (or slightly more) before it became inconsistent again. Sometimes it would get stuck on a sound and only correct itself when the next sound was played. Other times it would only play sounds occasionally again. I did notice though that often the sound was affected after times I had the playfield up or the backglass off.

Eventually it got to the point where all sound stopped. This lasted for about 3 days before I put everything on hold to investigate it and try to sort it out properly. Thankfully it was only a lack of sound and not game freezing or something more severe.
Homepin sent me a link to a VERY useful and interesting article about diagnosing and repairing the SB-100 card which is in my machine (and others). It was written up by Wayne Eggert (and can be found here (http://www.techdose.com/projects/Stern-Pinball-SB100-Sound-Board/346/page1.html)). First task was to read through this and absorb what I could.

Next step, I removed the SB-100 from the machine to have a closer look at it.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_sb100.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_sb100_back.jpg

After going over the board (front and back) looking for obvious issues I decided to start small and work my way up. Rather than start replacing parts, I thought I'd get some of the basics sorted first. Because the sound was often affected most after the playfield had been up I wanted to start with the connector pins. In my mind, movement from the cables caused by lifting the playfield or opening the back box could be enough to cause a loose header pin to move, resulting in issues. I reflowed the solder on each of the connector pins and then put the board back into the machine to test it. No change, still no sound.

I pulled the board out again and found a few connections on the back which looked like they could do with some reflowing also. This was done and again the board was put back into the machine to test. No change, still no sound.

On page 4 of the repair guide it details expected voltages across certain test points on the board. I thought this would be the next step. If one or more parts of the board were not getting the correct voltage, that would be a good indication and more isolation of the issue. There were a number of test points, all labeled along the lines of TP1, TP2, TP3 and so on.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/sb100_test.jpg

I got my DMM out and tested each of the points covered in the guide. Everything checked out. All voltages were correct across the test points. So what next? I didn't want to start replacing parts and trying to shot gun it. I put it aside for the night and figured I'd do some more research and reread the guide to see what else I could learn or may have missed.

It then dawned on me one thing I hadn't checked was the speaker. I did look at it a long time ago when first investigating the sound issue, but only to make sure it was actually soldered on. I went back outside and had a closer look. It looked alright, but decided to desolder it and replace it with a small arcade speaker I had spare that I knew worked. Switched the machine on and SOUND! Glorious SOUND! It had been days - but here it was - playing better and more clearer than ever! So the speaker was at fault! Before I threw it out, I decided to soldier it back on to make sure it was actually the issue. Turned the machine back on again with the original speaker installed and again - SOUND! My head hurt. Was it just luck? Or did resoldering the speaker actually fix the issue!? Was the issue now actually resolved?

That was roughly 5+ weeks ago. The sound had not missed a beat since. I've had the playfield up almost every night as I've serviced the pop bumpers, slingshots, kickers, drop targets, etc, etc and I've also moved the machine around a few times in the garage. It has not had trouble since. So perhaps it was just resoldering the speaker wires. Maybe it was a combination of that and reflowing the connections on the SB-100. I can't say for sure. But what I can say is the sound now works correctly. The only exception to that is sound #5 (http://www.aussiearcade.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=5) in test mode. This still does not play. I've hit every target with my finger and each one plays a sound. I have no idea what it's supposed to sound like or when it's supposed to play. Given a sound plays at #6 (http://www.aussiearcade.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=6) , I'm assuming it's something. But without another Nugent to watch in test mode, I'll never know.

(now that I've posted all that, I expect the sound card to fail in the next 5 minutes :p)

So where to from here? I'd like to replace the glass at some point. The current sheet is scratched like crazy. There are a few bulbs that don't work properly which I think is an issue with the bulb socket and I'll look at that soon enough. The playfield could really do with some love - including leveling the inserts. But that's a huge task and not something I'll undertake until I have more machines. A couple of metal sleeves to replace and some minor cleaning here and there. Right now though I'm on the look out for another pinball machine. It's true - you can't stop with one and they do breed. Ideally I'm chasing a project machine from 1979 - 1985. I love the playfields on the machines in this era. I find them much more playable than the newer ones (just my opinion :)). It's incredibly hard though to find a project cab that isn't a complete basket case or at a reasonable price (and by reasonable I mean priced fairly factoring in repair costs to get it back into a good state) and not some magical figure slapped on it.

But anyway - working on this machine has been awesome and has sent me in a new direction that I had not expected :D Hope you guys have enjoyed reading the posts.

Edit: Also want to send a big thanks to those who have posted hint, tips, advice, suggestions and feedback - it's been welcome and appreciated :)

rod71
19th February 2014, 10:07 PM
Excellent reading as usual :)

I posted an SB100 sound test video on my Youtube channel years ago. The 6 sounds are all there, just disregard the first 4 being out of tune (you can adjust them with the 3 pots on the board)

Sounds 1 to 4 are 10's/100's/1,000's/10,000's

Sound 5 is bonus advance

Sound 6 is usually pop bumpers which is a 'pew" sound that illawarra_steelers will lol at for sure :)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9t6zFvRk8R4

Jesder
19th February 2014, 10:19 PM
Awesome rod thanks for that.

I have watched a youtube video of someone playing a Nugent and noticed their sounds were slightly different to mine - but who knows how much the pots on my machine and theirs have been adjusted over the years. Mine sound pretty reasonable so haven't bothered playing with them at all.

Yep the "pew" is the pop bumpers - I actually like it and wish it was a little louder.

So I'm missing the sound for the bonus advance.. I wonder why that would be when all the others work? A faulty component on the SB-100?

Incidentally, I was going through your youtube videos earlier today while on a break at work and drooling over the thought of owning some of those awesome machines.

Pinoffski
19th February 2014, 10:21 PM
Great work Jesder.

very inspiring , love the passion you have :023:

I should send you my projects

rod71
19th February 2014, 10:43 PM
Awesome rod thanks for that.

I have watched a youtube video of someone playing a Nugent and noticed their sounds were slightly different to mine - but who knows how much the pots on my machine and theirs have been adjusted over the years. Mine sound pretty reasonable so haven't bothered playing with them at all.

Yep the "pew" is the pop bumpers - I actually like it and wish it was a little louder.

So I'm missing the sound for the bonus advance.. I wonder why that would be when all the others work? A faulty component on the SB-100?

Incidentally, I was going through your youtube videos earlier today while on a break at work and drooling over the thought of owning some of those awesome machines.

Yeah not sure about the missing sound. I reckon Skybeaux has worked on a few and might be able to shed some light on that.

Yep, I'm certainly amassing a nice collection of videos, and am fortunate to have been able to play them all at one stage :)

illawarra_steelers
20th February 2014, 05:23 AM
Excellent reading as usual :)


Sound 6 is usually pop bumpers which is a 'pew" sound that illawarra_steelers will lol at for sure :)



60837

rod71
20th February 2014, 06:53 AM
60837

Haha. Classic.

robm
20th February 2014, 08:29 AM
Brilliant write up mate. Thanks for taking the effort to document it all. It is a great resource for yourself and others.

Great fun and learning experience in what you have done

brado
23rd February 2014, 01:02 PM
Great thread!

Really good to see you give the drops a going over too, very worthwhile.

Pinball IS classic Stern drop targets.

Jesder
23rd February 2014, 01:16 PM
I snuck in a final tweak to the flipper bats that went unnoticed (which was slightly visible in the drop target post) :)

It's been a quiet few days with no work to do on it. Spent more time flicking through old sale threads here and gumtree/ebay looking for a new project ;)

I've had to adjust my play a little bit after the latest batch of work. The ball comes off the pop bumpers and sling shots better now and a few shots I used to be able to make require different timing / placement.

Jesder
27th March 2014, 07:00 PM
My sound board issues have now finally been sorted out.

I did as much as I could in terms of tracking the issues down and fixing what I could. But it got to a point where I lacked some knowledge on the next step to pin point the issue. I knew roughly what was wrong, but I wasn't prepared to start shot gunning it and replacing perfectly working parts.

So I sought out some expert help.

I have to give a big thanks to one of our sponsors Skybeaux at Kens Pinball Repairs. :)

I contacted Ken and he felt he would be able to fix it no problems and the price I was quoted was reasonable. So I shipped it off.

Only 6 days later, I had the sound board back in my hands, working 100% and Ken did it for less than what was quoted. Hard to complain about that :)

I'd thoroughly recommend Ken. He's great to deal with, reliable and I'll be using him again should the need arise.

I now know what sound #5 is like - and it's kind of weird to hear it playing during a game. I'm not used to it yet ;)

Further on the Nugent, I replaced the last of the aluminium coil sleeves and also tracked down some faulty components on the Lamp driver board which were giving me grief with certain globes on the play field.

But lately, the only thing to do on it is play :D

toads
27th March 2014, 07:36 PM
Great write up.
Ken has a good reputation here, now you see why. I too was amazed at his price and speed :)

Skybeaux
28th March 2014, 08:44 AM
Yes it's a great write-up Andrew , you've done a ton of work to the machine and it's really looking great!
Thanks also for the nice words , i'm glad your happy with the work and that the sound board's working well in the machine.

bossninja17
6th April 2014, 11:33 AM
Ken sorted out my Nugent - and just like your experience it was a great job and a great price by someone who loves his work.

vanhos
13th April 2014, 05:44 PM
Hi just wondering we're you purchased u flipper buttons. Also are these able to fit in a bally 81 model machines as I won't to illuminate the buttons.

wiredoug
13th April 2014, 05:55 PM
what color ? only seen transparent in red

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-905RT


page has all the gtb part numbers you will need to find them

Jesder
13th April 2014, 05:56 PM
The buttons came from either marcospec (http://www.marcospec.com/) or RTBB (http://www.rtbb.com.au/), I can't recall.

Not sure if they will suit an 81 Bally - rod71 might be able to answer that.

wiredoug
13th April 2014, 05:58 PM
oh cool ..
green .. http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=658
and red http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/b16680r.html

rod71
13th April 2014, 06:06 PM
The buttons came from either marcospec (http://www.marcospec.com/) or RTBB (http://www.rtbb.com.au/), I can't recall.

Not sure if they will suit an 81 Bally - rod71 might be able to answer that.

Yeah dunno. Dont see why not though.

vanhos
13th April 2014, 07:35 PM
They look nearly identical.

martymoose
19th September 2014, 02:09 PM
What you realkon its worth now
i have one in the shed its very rough condition never played it
but if you wanted one for parts

Jesder
20th December 2014, 02:18 PM
It's now been 12 months since I came into possession of my first pinball machine. The Nugent has received a lot of play time over the year. I rebuilt the machine back in January / February this year and at the time was learning a lot about how pinball machines worked in general and the ways to clean & service them. Since then I've gone onto restore a Fireball Classic and also well underway with a Pinbot machine. I've learnt a lot since working on this machine and I decided that I'd revisit it for a 12 month service. I don't plan to rebuild the machine like I did last time. It's running really well, but needs a bit of a surface level clean and there are a few small issues I'd like to sort out (very minor). It's a chance too to apply some of the skills I've learnt since working on it to improve it further. I'm also going to use it as a bit of a guide for servicing my other machines once they hit the 12 month mark. The first thing to look at will be the plastics. A number of the pieces are warped.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_warped_plastic_1.jpg

Some are worse than others. The most obvious are the two large blue pieces that sit at the top of the playfield. The ends on each are the worst affected.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_warped_plastic_2.jpg

I did the plastics in 3 sets in the oven. Each time the oven was heated to 105 degrees and the pieces put onto a biscuit tray lined with baking paper. I'd keep an eye on the plastic and wait for it to flatten out. This took about 3 - 4 minutes. I set an alarm for 4 minutes incase my attention was dragged away. The pieces were removed once they became flat and put between sheets of glass and heavy items sat on top and left to cool. This resulted in a complete set of flattened plastics.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_flat_plastics.jpg

With the pieces flat, I needed to address another issue with them - the rear side of most pieces was quite dirty. First time around I was too damn scared to really touch the plastics. With lots of practice under my belt now, I wanted to clean them up properly.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_plastics_dirty_back.jpg

With a little effort, each piece was gently cleaned until the dirt and crap was removed. There are a few minor scratches, but given their age I'm quite happy with their condition. The only problem I have with them is the yellow "Cat Scratch Fever" piece which has had an extra hole drilled in it. This hole was added and a post added behind the bonus multiplier drop target at some point in the past. I'm not sure why. In fact a post could easily been added without a hold added to the plastic. The bonus collect saucer ejects the ball in this direction and it's possible to adjust the strength the ball is released at - so I'm thinking that perhaps at one point in time it was being released with too much force, causing the ball to hit the target bank with excessive force.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_plastics_clean_back.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_extra_post.jpg

Thankfully it's not an obvious fault when looking at it installed in the machine - but it's there, and I know about it. The next issue to look at was the bulbs. On the playfield there were two bonus lamps not working (10K and 1K). The 1K bonus lamp turned out to be the wire connected to the lamp socket - it had snapped off. The 10K lamp was simply a bulb. I checked all other bulbs at the same time and found everything was OK except for two #455 (http://www.aussiearcade.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=455) flash bulbs I had in the backglass. These were looking quite burnt and were replaced.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_broken_bonus_lamp.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_bonus_globes_working.jpg

The last lamp to look at was the 5x multiplier lamp. The bulb was OK and the lamp socket connected properly. So I had a look at the boards and found a dodgy transistor. This was replaced with a new one and the 5X lamp was back working again. While I had the board out I went through each transistor and checked the solder joints on the connectors for any cracks.

My attention now turned to the shooter lane guard and apron area. These areas were cleaned but never polished up nicely. I wanted to take some time to restore some shine to the metal. The lane guard was up first. It started out looking quite dull from age.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_lane_guard_start.jpg

It was a chance to use my new tumbler. I loaded the tumbler up with lots of metal parts and media and let it run for 8 hours. The results were fantastic. The lane guard looks much better as do the screws, bolts and washers. The ball serve assembly was also dismantled and polished up.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_cleaned_guard_ballserve.jpg

The ball ramp metal parts were removed from the playfield for polishing too.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_dirty_ramp_guards.jpg

Due to the size, there were done by hand and not the tumbler. They are looking much better now.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_cleaned_ramp_parts.jpg

The playfield area under the apron wasn't too bad. There was a small surface layer of dust in most areas. There was some crap under the ramp. Looking back at my photos from earlier in the year, I couldn't find any of the ramp removed. So it's possible I did not remove the ramp last time and simply cleaned around it.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_dirrt_apron_playfield.jpg

The area was cleaned with eucalyptus oil and the polished with Novus 2 and 1.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_cleaned_apron_playfield.jpg

The metal parts were all installed back into position and the ball serve assembly rebuild. With this assembly, I replaced the spring as the arm was not being pulled back into position correctly.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_apron_area_revisted_ready.jpg

The last thing to look at here was the ball drain switch. This was removed from under the playfield and cleaned up also. Before removing it though, I noticed something interesting. The metal arm was sitting below one of the switch blades. As you can see in the photo, there is a switch blade between the wire and the playfield. This blade should sit below the wire. This explains an issue I had been seeing and wanted to address. At random times, the ball serve coil would fire, always directly after a ball had just been served. Looking at the switch closer, I noticed that because the wire was below this blade, it was not opening the switch correctly (and causing the ball serve assembly to fire again).

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/ball_drain_switch_blade.jpg

The switch arm was cleaned up and polished also.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/ball_drain_switch_clean.jpg

I can't express how much I enjoy playing this machine. I figured a nice anniversary gift for it would be a nice high polish ball and also a fresh set of white rubbers. The current rubbers have built up some dirt over the last 12 months, more than I had expected. So a new set will help maintain the clean state. There is still more to do and I'll go into that in the next update. There is a source of dirt that is getting pushed around and I want to address this before moving onto anything else. Once that's taken care of I plan to strip most of the parts from the top of the playfield and give it a really good clean.

It may seem like overkill to be cleaning it again already, but this is machine I plan to own for a long time and intend to care for is as much as possible. It's also a great chance to put new skills gained into practice.

illawarra_steelers
20th December 2014, 04:57 PM
in Comic Book Guy voice..best AA poster :cool:

rod71
20th December 2014, 05:17 PM
Clean your white rubbers with shelite. They will still have good bounce after 12 months. Buy beer instead.

Fish Tales
20th December 2014, 05:48 PM
Great game, and excellent thread :-) Blue rubbers look good on Nugent.

Jesder
20th December 2014, 06:17 PM
in Comic Book Guy voice..best AA poster :cool:

Thanks Tony :) You're probably making Rod jealous though ;)


Clean your white rubbers with shelite. They will still have good bounce after 12 months. Buy beer instead.

Thanks for the tip. I already have the rubbers ready to go on, so will keep that in mind for the next machine I do a 12 month service on. What I will do though is grab some of the shellite I have and attempt to clean the ones I take off as a trial run. How do you recommend doing it? apply the shellite to a cloth then wipe each one down? soak them?


Great game, and excellent thread :-) Blue rubbers look good on Nugent.

Blue rubber rings? They came in colours other than White and black?



Just to expand on the dirty area of the playfield I mentioned in my update. At the top of the playfield there is a large wear patch that extends for about 10cm between the bonus saucer and the multiplier drop targets. This area seems to be a common wear zone as I've seen other Nugent playfields with damage in this area (although the others have not been as bad as this).

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_damage_start.jpg

It looks like someone has used a black marker to colour it in. It does get hidden well when you're playing as it sits behind the to pop bumper and being dark, doesn't stand out. I ran my finger along it and found the black transferred far too easily. This is from me gently moving my finger across the patch once.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_damage_transfer.jpg

Seeing how easily that transferred to my finger, you can image how that would travel around the machine since the ball hits this area everytime it enters the playfield and anytime it is ejected from the saucer. This explains the black I'm seeing on many of the rubbers around the playfield. The short term solution for me is to clean off the black marker and cover it up with a small mylar patch. I've removed all the black and will be adding the mylar patch tomorrow.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_playfield_damage_cleaned.jpg

Long term, I have a few options. I've contacted Savage about a possible playfield restore. Since it's a machine that will be in my possession long term, I am considering getting him to work some magic fixing this area (and the other smaller wear areas) up and clear coat it. Another option is to patch it up myself and airbrush. I have a junk playfield I've purchased specifically for airbrushing and it's something I'll be tinkering with next year.

With the black marker removed and no more crap to push around the playfield, I think i'll stick with cleaning the playfield, waxing and then adding the new rubber set for now. A long term solution is something I'll investigate more next year.

Fish Tales
20th December 2014, 08:01 PM
Common wear area, fortunately you dont really see it from the front of the machine.

rod71
20th December 2014, 08:09 PM
Thanks for the tip. I already have the rubbers ready to go on, so will keep that in mind for the next machine I do a 12 month service on. What I will do though is grab some of the shellite I have and attempt to clean the ones I take off as a trial run. How do you recommend doing it? apply the shellite to a cloth then wipe each one down? soak them?



Yeah, paper towel, cloth. Shit will rub straight off, good as new.

Jesder
22nd December 2014, 08:27 PM
Since the apron area was complete, it was time to start moving up the playfield. I want to give the playfield a solid clean, followed by a polish and wax. It's a bit of a task, so decided to split it into two. I'd start with the lower half and then move onto the top half once complete. I removed all the plastics in the lower half of the playfield, along with all the star posts and rubbers. I also removed the inlane and outlane switch arms to give them a good clean. They were not something I'd cleaned last time around, so made a point of removing them for cleaning. I used steel wool and brasso to polish them up.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_inlane_outlane_switches.jpg

The next part to remove was two roll over inserts. There is one inside the return opening behind the third flipper and a second in the middle of the playfield, just above the bonus lamps. These are quite small and made up of a button and a frame. No spring - the switch blade below the playfield pushes the button back up in the default position. Dirt had collected under these and since I'd not cleaned them last time, here was another opportunity to target something I'd skipped.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_rollover_dirty.jpg

The two parts separate easily enough and were cleaned. The orange button parts were also polished with a bit of Novus to restore some shine.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_rollover_clean.jpg

When I had the playfield up to remove the switches and roll overs, I noticed some black markings behind most of the bonus inserts. A small dark outline, around where the bulbs normally sit.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_insert_rear_dirt.jpg

As you would expect, this shows through when the insert is lit during play. This was easy enough to clean with a cloth, so I worked my way through all the inserts, giving the underside a gentle clean. With the top of the playfield clear, I used eucalyptus oil and isopropyl alcohol to thoroughly clean the surface area. I was surprised at the amount of dust that had managed to work its way under the inserts. Once done I moved onto some Novus and then finally some carnauba wax. Despite the damage that has formed over time on the playfield, it has cleaned nicely and has a nice shine. In fact I can see the Space Orbit machine next to it in the the reflection on the playfield surface.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_lower_playfield_cleaned_waxed.jpg

Next I installed all the star posts again, giving each one a gentle wipe down with a cloth. New rubbers were also installed and the globes added back into the playfield. The flippers also received new rubber rings.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_lower_playfield_service_done.jpg

Finally the plastics were installed and the lower playfield was now done.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_lower_playfield_service_complete.jpg

One thing I have been tempted to do is respray the white wooden rails as there are some real signs of age here.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_wooden_rail_wear.jpg

Sadly these are attached by nails under the playfield, so removing them would be a real hassle (newer playfields switched to screws - which makes life so much easier). Because of this, i'm putting it in the too hard basket (- at least for now). They are still solid (and cleaned). There would be some gain to the presentation of the machine by doing it, but little else.

Next up - the upper playfield area. This has some switch arms and roll overs to clean and polish. The playfield also needs a good clean and wax. A few metal pieces will go into my next tumbler session. I'll also be checking the rear of the inserts in this area for any crap that's built up under them. I have new rubbers ready to go here too. I'm undecided what I'll be doing about the wear patch in the short term (aside from the mylar patch). Maybe i'll decide before my next update :)

Fire_Power
23rd December 2014, 06:55 AM
With the wooden rails still in place, with some careful measuring and drilling you could install new "upgrade" screws to hold them in place and then remove the rails for the paint job and then re-installation not using nails would be a breeze?

Jesder
23rd December 2014, 07:39 AM
With the wooden rails still in place, with some careful measuring and drilling you could install new "upgrade" screws to hold them in place and then remove the rails for the paint job and then re-installation not using nails would be a breeze?

I did have that thought and I think the reinstallation post painting would be very easy. It's the removal I'm not 100% on at this point. Would need to be careful on removal. As I often find though, things turn out OK when I approach them with my full attention. Perhaps once my Fireball is done and a few fix ups to the Space Orbit (oh and the 4/8 joystick board added to one of my machines) I can revisit this.

I seem to like filling my life up with projects ;)

Rich
24th December 2014, 05:53 AM
With everything you have tackled you are letting a few nails stop you........no, no, no, no....
With all the screws removed you can move the side rails left and right a little so as to have a tiny gap....
At the top of the playfield use a chisel or screwdriver to pry the rails from the playfield.
You will get to the point where you just use your hands and they will pull straight off....
Once you start it just gets easier.
Oh, just to mention.....Mr Sheen is great for removing dirt from rubbers and the playfield.

Railways
24th December 2014, 06:54 AM
Agree with Rich above. As far as Mr. Sheen goes, I only use it to clean/polish plastics though;)

Rich
24th December 2014, 11:30 AM
I should clarify......I use Mr Sheen on my playfields as they have a clear vinyl protective cover like Mylar.

Jesder
24th December 2014, 11:49 AM
What do you guys think of Millwax? I've not used it yet but have a bottle sitting on my shelf.

Fish Tales
24th December 2014, 12:20 PM
Millswax is ok, if you have it, use it.

rod71
24th December 2014, 02:49 PM
Crap. Smells like your local servo when you open it. Not good for plastics or Mylar. I have 2 bottles that I "Won" at meets, and would hesitate passing them on.

Fish Tales
24th December 2014, 03:13 PM
Doesnt hurt mylar? never has for me, removes the dirt, leaves a shortlived shine. People tell you all kinds of stuff about polishes.....I have used turtlewax with good results.

rod71
24th December 2014, 03:24 PM
Doesnt hurt mylar? never has for me, removes the dirt, leaves a shortlived shine. People tell you all kinds of stuff about polishes.....I have used turtlewax with good results.

Quick search on Google groups archives will tell the story. Like anything, you'll get the odd person who swears by it.

It's a bit like Bally recommending "Wildcat 125" back in the day. Research that for a laugh.

imck
24th December 2014, 08:37 PM
Hi Jesder
Ive been watching your post and your going great guns . I agree with other comments you should romove the rail and paint it Nugent was a game from my past, and I have it on my Hyperpin and love playig it

Great post Imck

Jesder
28th December 2014, 07:05 PM
The final part covering my 12 month service of my Nugent. In some respects, it's getting a much better playfield clean than when I rebuilt it this time last year. Although I replaced many old and worn parts, I didn't give enough attention to the surface of the playfield. It was wiped down but I didn't have the knowledge or confidence at the time to do more. The apron area has been taken care of, as has the lower playfield area. Now on to the upper half. First step was to remove everything. This includes the rebound rubber and gates. There is quite a bit of crap built up already.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_upper_playfield_stripped.jpg

With the components removed from the top of the playfield, I then removed the two roll over targets. As with the others, these were not looked at last time and you can see some dirt built up under the roll over.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_dirty_upper_rollovers.jpg

These were disassembled, cleaned and then finally polished with some Novus 2 followed by Novus 1.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_clean_upper_rollovers.jpg

The 3 roll over switch arms were also removed for cleaning and had the arms polished. Again, the sort of thing I skipped over last time and wanted to make a better effort with now.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_clean_lane_switches.jpg

A number of metal parts were put into the tumbler for 8 hours. This included the gates, and rebound frame. They came up looking amazing. The tumbler does such a good job and it's been a worthy addition to my every increasing range of tools for pinball servicing and repairs :)

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_clean_gates.jpg

The next step was to give the playfield a really solid clean. Using isopropyl alcohol and eucalyptus oil I removed as much dirt, dust and crap that I could. I gently went over some sections with a magic eraser to try and remove some of the really built in dirt. I polished up the metal rails and ball guide rail as best I could. From there I could polish and wax the playfield which left it looking nice and clean with a nice reflection. This should look good under lights.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_clean_upper_playfield.jpg

Another part I skipped last time was the small metal rail that sits just beside the spinner. This was removed and cleaned up.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_clean_ball_rail.jpg

The two roll over targets were installed again as were the 3 roll over switch arms. All star posts installed with new rubbers on all. The rebound rubber was not replaced, but instead rotated around.

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_new_rubbers.jpg

Last part to go back on were the plastics. Before playing, I put the game into switch test mode and found a few switches were stuck - I recall knocking a couple as I went around cleaning, so adjusted them back correctly again. The playfield is now cleaner than it has been in who knows how long (and looks really nice under lights :) )

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_12_month_complete_1.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_12_month_complete_2.jpg

http://www.enteryourinitials.com/images/nugent/nugent_12_month_complete_3.jpg

Last thing to do was give the game a brand new high polish ball. With the glass back on I fired the game up and played a few credits. I was AMAZED at how fast the game now played. The rubbers have so much more bounce in them. Even though the old ones were only 12 months old, there is a really noticeable bounce difference. The wax on the playfield is certainly having an impact on the play and it's feeling really nice.

The white rails will be done at some point in the future. Right now I've been without my Nugent for just over a week, so I'm dying to play it. Once my other projects settle down (I really want to finish off the Fireball Classic this week and also get a few more things done on Pinbot), I'll return and give those white rails a new coat of paint to again improve the presentation of the machine.

But this ends the 12 months service. I wasn't sure what to expect while doing it and if I'd find it a bit boring. But I loved it. The presentation of the machine has been improved and it's also cleaner and playing better than ever. It was a chance to revisit some areas of the machine and apply new skills I'd learnt since moving on. I enjoyed taking the opportunity to do this. In the year since I came into possession of this machine, I've learnt -a lot- about pinball (and made an excellent group of new friends). It's completely run over the top of my interest in building / restoring arcade machines. I've been lucky in a way as this machine was an excellent introduction into the world of pinball, which I was then able to build on with the Fireball Classic project and then build again with a junk playfield and I continue to build knowledge with the Pinbot project. Returning to the Nugent actually made me aware of the knowledge gap I'd covered and highlighted the importance in starting small and working up. There is still so much more to learn and I can't wait for the next project post Pinbot.

One last thing, I will have to decide what to do with the wear patch at some point. For now the mylar over it should help minimise any further damage it receives. I'd like to do more with it though, so may (will) add a follow up post here detailing that outcome.

Also... while putting the parts back onto the playfield I was left over with 1 extra bulb. I couldn't spot where it was missing and figured it was one I had replaced under the playfield the day before. Looking at the photos now while I write this, I just spotted where it is missing from. I'm off to fix that while you read this :)

Fire_Power
29th December 2014, 07:21 AM
Looks good, a coat of wax does wonders for ball speed but you forgot to clean the crap off the top of the flippers :safeyet:

Jesder
29th December 2014, 08:09 AM
Looks good, a coat of wax does wonders for ball speed but you forgot to clean the crap off the top of the flippers :safeyet:

http://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--OczT6mGE--/aebcwbzndpq5t918xgao.jpg

bossninja17
19th March 2015, 07:51 PM
Back on Aussie Arcade after months away and looking through posts I've missed. Love this one!