PDA

View Full Version : T2 mylar removal done and dusted within 2 hours



pinball god
15th August 2009, 11:22 AM
I've started a new thread so I can hopefully show the process for start to finish. The first set of photos show why I decided to do it. These belmishes just pissed me off for a long long time (years) until you guys introduced me to all these things you can do to a pinney.

Because I'm a tinkerer and can't help picking at things I did the following. The security pass insert has been raised and figured the artwork would have lifted with it (no brainer!!). So I was very concerned 1. its gonna lift and 2. this decal is not easy to find (if not near impossible).

So I picked at the mylar where it had lifted on the playfield and thought I'd see how easy it peeled. No crap, it peeled like a sticker. So I kept going, very slowly, a couple of fingers to steady the hand that's peeling and fingers on the other hand pressing on the playfield right next to where the mylar was peeling off. I hoped this would add a bit of stability to the artwork, decals and lessen the chance of lifting them. My eyes covering endless areas of the playfield as I progressed to spot any artwork lifting.

So here are a couple of shots of this process. It was slow but basically no gum residue (a bonus). I removed probably 70% until I felt too much resistence for my liking. BTW I freehanded the mylar off the security pass insert without a problem.

Now I figured I've probably used up all my luck with the freehand method, so now its time for the freeze. I can highly recommend SUPER COLD 134. It comes in 400g can, adjustable nozzle for flow strength and costs $17. I bought 2 cans and probably only use 20mg because of the small amount of mylar left to remove.

The first pic shows how to freeze the mylar and lift a corner. Then grab the mylar and just put slight tension on it. Don't try to lift it off, the minute you feel any force, just hold it there and spray. The next shots (thanks to wife) are quick successions of the process. When the mylar frosts then tension will lift a fair whack of it off the playfield. Then regain tension again and spray until the piece totally lifts off

Note if you notice any inserts becoming cloudy, get the hair dryer onto them and they'll clear up.

The freeze process (no bull) took me 3-5 minutes, and I figure if I did all the mylar, probably 10 minutes. But all the glue residue is left on the playfield. No artwork removed. Removed the glue with shellite.

Here is a couple of before and after of the 'security pass' insert dilema. Also the only casualty of the whole process and this was done during the freehand stage.

Once gum removed (15 mins) I wanted to see if there was any shine so quickly spread a little novus 2 and buffed. Here is the result. I will try out my 'treasure cove' kit before putting the playfield back together.

The first photo is the only one using a flash. I couldn't demo the shine using the flash. Check the reflection

BTW I don't recommend the freehand method as the prefered method. I think I was lucky more than skillful, but I'll take any compliments on my 'mastery'

Thanks for watchin'

shootar75
15th August 2009, 11:40 AM
nice, playfield looks great. are you going to re mylar or just a few coats of wax?

pinball god
15th August 2009, 11:44 AM
nice, playfield looks great. are you going to re mylar or just a few coats of wax?

Thanks mate, no mylar as it caused too much stress planning and taking it off. Don't need that again. I'll wax it. It doesn't get a whole lot of play (100-200 games/year)

shootar75
15th August 2009, 11:49 AM
thanks for the detailed post, vry helpful as I've been putting off doing mine for awhile now as I am chickenshit and thought i'd bugger it up - but yours looks great so I will give it a crack as well. :023:

My mylar has bubbled over the inserts from the heat from the globes i guess, and it shits me.

scratcha
15th August 2009, 04:10 PM
Nice work there:):)....Nothing worse than shitty looking mylar.. Who stocks the Super Cold 134 ?

pinball god
15th August 2009, 06:17 PM
Nice work there:):)....Nothing worse than shitty looking mylar.. Who stocks the Super Cold 134 ?

Got it from rockby electronics in Clayton Vic renver rd to be precise. They sell the crc brand $25+ so this I think is good value. More in the can, -51c, zero residue and you can adjust the flow via nozzle


thanks for the detailed post, vry helpful as I've been putting off doing mine for awhile now as I am chickenshit and thought i'd bugger it up - but yours looks great so I will give it a crack as well. :023:

My mylar has bubbled over the inserts from the heat from the globes i guess, and it shits me.

Glad to help

dezbaz
15th August 2009, 06:55 PM
All I can say is


WOW!


Thanks for the thread and for so many pics and effort :)

pinball god
16th August 2009, 09:20 PM
Completed 3 coats of wax, and re-assembly of the playfield (mini shop of rubbers & GI globes, various touch ups) today. The playfield came up like glass and the game plays lightning fast. The playfield colours are richer and more vibrant.

Scratch2k
22nd September 2009, 11:25 AM
I removed all the mylar from my T2 the other night, I used heat since the supplier of my freeze spray sent me the wrong item (luckily i noticed before I sprayed too much "foaming cleaner" on the mylar) and I wanted to get started.

The hairdryer worked but it took ages (about 1.5 hours), my mylar is in pretty bad condition (I'll be putting a post up about the process with pictures soon) so it was continually breaking and flaking off. My playfield underneath isn't fantastic either but I'm hoping it will polish up nicely.

I noticed you removed the factory mylar from in front of the targets the cannon hits (aboev the HK, on the yellow/white inserts), I did the same and I'm thinking about replacing it since that's a pretty high impact area, are you going to do the same?

Unfortunately, due to the degradation of the mylar/diamond plate (or my inexperience) I had a couple of bits of paint lift off and there's even a slight hump on one of the bits where the paint lifted and there is also a section near the flippers which has worn to wood. I don't think I'm up for paint matching and re-surfacing so I intend on re-mylaring the whole thing once it's all clean to preserve the playfield as-is, I'm more a player than a collector so I'm only interested in having a clean, playable game.

One last thing, you said it only took you 15 minutes to remove your glue with shellite, I'm doing the same but it's taking a LOT longer than 15 minutes and a lot of effort. I wonder if that's due to the difference in mylar removal techniques. I'm going to try heating the glue with a hairdryer then shellite it while it's soft, to see if that helps.

Anyway, thanks for sharing your process and experiences, it helped me a lot.

Will make a new thread with my pictures tonight or tomorrow so maybe I can help future newbie restorers.

wingtipvortex
22nd September 2009, 11:50 AM
Im very interested in seeing you pics, good stuff!

Virgil Tracy
22nd September 2009, 12:39 PM
Hmm so I all I need a bottle of R134a from work and away I go a freeze off my mylar

shootar75
22nd September 2009, 02:18 PM
One last thing, you said it only took you 15 minutes to remove your glue with shellite, I'm doing the same but it's taking a LOT longer than 15 minutes and a lot of effort. I wonder if that's due to the difference in mylar removal techniques. I'm going to try heating the glue with a hairdryer then shellite it while it's soft, to see if that helps.

Anyway, thanks for sharing your process and experiences, it helped me a lot.

Will make a new thread with my pictures tonight or tomorrow so maybe I can help future newbie restorers.

Spray the glue with deSolv-it (bunnings) or soak a rag with shellite til its really wet then rub over the glue letting it soak it, then with a plastic spatula or plastic scraper scrape the excess glue off. Then rub remainder off with a rag.

http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww287/shootar75/T2013.jpg

http://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww287/shootar75/T2027.jpg

Scratch2k
22nd September 2009, 02:49 PM
Spray the glue with deSolv-it (bunnings) or soak a rag with shellite til its really wet then rub over the glue letting it soak it, then with a plastic spatula or plastic scraper scrape the excess glue off. Then rub remainder off with a rag.


I was a bit afraid of "soaking" anything and putting it on the playfield and the tought of scraping the playfield with anything gives me shivers.....I'll just have to get brave and safe in the knowledge that I'm exactly a pioneer in this regard.

I think my main problem is that the glue really seems to have bonded with the surface, I'll see how I go tonight.



Pictures


In it's current state I can't imagine my T2 ever looking this good, but I'm willing to put in the time, perhaps I can resurrect it.

shootar75
22nd September 2009, 04:42 PM
I was a bit afraid of "soaking" anything and putting it on the playfield and the tought of scraping the playfield with anything gives me shivers.....I'll just have to get brave and safe in the knowledge that I'm exactly a pioneer in this regard.
I think my main problem is that the glue really seems to have bonded with the surface, I'll see how I go tonight..

Letting the desolvit or shellite soak in 4 loosens up the bond of the glue. Just a plastic scraper, you don't need to apply much pressure at all so no fear of damage, you won't hurt your playfield as it is diamond coated.



In it's current state I can't imagine my T2 ever looking this good, but I'm willing to put in the time, perhaps I can resurrect it..

Mate my mylar was a disgrace, but under it was perfect. Couple of coats of carnauba wax and she'll be shi i neee!

Mickey Juice
22nd September 2009, 06:49 PM
Letting the desolvit or shellite soak in 4 loosens up the bond of the glue.


Yeah I used heaps of it. Breaks down the glue really well. you just have to go sloooow

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/6559/desolve1ed0.jpg

http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/5003/mylars1th8.jpg

snippy
24th January 2010, 06:15 AM
Nice thread,

I'm going to attempt some mylar removal on my T2 today, i'm pretty worried about it to be honest, but the mylar is so stuffed in some areas it just has to come off. I polished the mylar with novis, the game plays i'd say about 30 to 40% quicker, my machine playfield was extremely dirty... played for hours yesterday, got my top score of 188 million, now I can't stop thinking about what it might be like without this scratched up mylar so i bought some freeze spray stuff from dick smiths yesterday and think i'll have a crack at it today..

I know mine wont be coming off in 1 large piece though, or even a few large pieces, it's all cracked up with holes all over the shop. Finger crossed.

Sorry about the size of the pic.. I'll shrink it a bit later on.

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/IMG_2863.JPG

Cheers,
Snippy.

snippy
24th January 2010, 08:19 AM
Heys,

Well i've done about 10%, the area that's the real problem is where all the crazy cracking is. The mylar is coming off tiny chips at a time, I can't get a run on it. What a pain in the ass, no stopping now tho! :)

Anyone got any idea on any tricks when the mylar is cracked all over the place ?

Cheers,
Snippy.

humpalot
24th January 2010, 09:13 AM
Heys,

Well i've done about 10%, the area that's the real problem is where all the crazy cracking is. The mylar is coming off tiny chips at a time, I can't get a run on it. What a pain in the ass, no stopping now tho! :)

Anyone got any idea on any tricks when the mylar is cracked all over the place ?

Cheers,
Snippy.

It's going to be a real pain, sorry.

But this might help?

http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php?t=29891

snippy
24th January 2010, 10:20 AM
It's going to be a real pain, sorry.

But this might help?

http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php?t=29891

Man,

So i saw put it out in the sun, which translated to heating it up... This lead me to getting my wifes hair dryer - you would not believe the difference it makes. That might of just saved me about 5 hours.

The freeze spray just made the cracked section brittle, it was great for the large uncracked sections though... With this hair drier I have been able to literally scrape off a lot of the crazy cracked areas with a plastic ipod opening tool (yeah sounds stupid I know) I'll post some pics soon.

Cheers!
Snippy

snippy
24th January 2010, 02:45 PM
Hey,

Still going on it.... diamond plate playfields are a thing of beauty - it's coming up great! :)

Cheers,
Snippy.

snippy
24th January 2010, 04:42 PM
Gday all,

It'd be fair to say.... I'm pretty happy with myself :) Took me *all* day though..

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3307.jpg

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3308.jpg

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3309.jpg

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3310.jpg

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3311.jpg

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3312.jpg

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3314.jpg

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3316.jpg

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/mylarremoved/IMG_3317.jpg


Cheers guys,
Snippy.

knight76
24th January 2010, 06:37 PM
A great result. well done.

pinball god
24th January 2010, 10:47 PM
Haven't looked at my thread for ages and thought it would be dead but you guys have done some amazing stuff. I thought I'd be able to brag as having the best t2 in Oz but after looking at these jobs I'm shutting my mouth lol. Great seeing others having a go

Oh btw been thinking about putting some Mylar near the 5 bank targets as a precaution. Anyone sourced a supplier?

narf_
24th January 2010, 10:58 PM
wayne sells it by the sheet

NMD
24th January 2010, 11:08 PM
That is gonna play real fast, nice work =)

snippy
25th January 2010, 06:09 AM
Oh btw been thinking about putting some Mylar near the 5 bank targets as a precaution. Anyone sourced a supplier?

Gday Pinball god,

You know my machine actually had mylar over mylar for this section. I removed the top layer with a lot of care and the original mylar underneath was in perfect condition - so I left it there.

I am actually thinking of re-applying a few pieces of mylar around the playfield a bit though, i've applied a coat of that wax stuff in my picture with the wool buffer on the drill. I really have no idea what i'm doing though, the wax just seemed like a good idea to protect the playfield.

Oh also, my t2 is probably among the worst in oz, not the best, my cabinet is ballsed up along with the plastics etc etc - but the playfield itself is in pretty good condition (i'd go as far to say "fantastic" condition now ;))

Cheers guys,
Snippy.

Skybeaux
25th January 2010, 06:42 AM
That's an excellent result Mat , and i'd be real happy with that:023:

Doesn't look like the same playfield now , looks much better than the one i've got.

snippy
25th January 2010, 07:25 AM
That's an excellent result Mat , and i'd be real happy with that:023:

Doesn't look like the same playfield now , looks much better than the one i've got.

Cheers mate,

You know, I got 188 million on saturday, finally got half your score! ;)

Mat.

pinball god
25th January 2010, 07:56 AM
Gday Pinball god,

You know my machine actually had mylar over mylar for this section. I removed the top layer with a lot of care and the original mylar underneath was in perfect condition - so I left it there.

I am actually thinking of re-applying a few pieces of mylar around the playfield a bit though, i've applied a coat of that wax stuff in my picture with the wool buffer on the drill. I really have no idea what i'm doing though, the wax just seemed like a good idea to protect the playfield.

Oh also, my t2 is probably among the worst in oz, not the best, my cabinet is ballsed up along with the plastics etc etc - but the playfield itself is in pretty good condition (i'd go as far to say "fantastic" condition now ;))

Cheers guys,
Snippy.Mate you did a great job with a fantastic result. I too had several pieces of Mylar and stupidly took them all off. Kinda got too excited I guess. If it's ok I'd appreciate some dimensions of that piece so I could make another. From memory it was rectangular with rounded corners. I've seen Waynes mylar but its a full playfield size which is major overkill but if its the only around, I may have to bite the bullet.

What would the cheap old 'contact' stuff be like to use? You know the stuff kids put on books. I'm figuring that it may need to be replaced more regularly but maybe not as had to take off?? What are your thoughts?

snippy
25th January 2010, 01:27 PM
From memory it was rectangular with rounded corners. I've seen Waynes mylar but its a full playfield size which is major overkill but if its the only around, I may have to bite the bullet.


Gday,

I'm at work today but from memory it is rounded corner rectangular for the side that goes down right in front of the actual target, and the other side of mine kind of had triangles like on the back of a dinosaur. Only 2 or 3 largish triangles though. It looks very factory job to me, not sure about an operator cutting mylar with such precision. I'm happy to take photos and stick a ruler or something onto it so you can try to measure it out, or even if you want me to try and trace it onto a sheet of paper and send you the paper or something like that ?



What would the cheap old 'contact' stuff be like to use? You know the stuff kids put on books. I'm figuring that it may need to be replaced more regularly but maybe not as had to take off?? What are your thoughts?

I know the contact you're talking about - I think the issue you might have is that the contact probably isn't all that hard wearing, so like you said you might have to replace it. It may also not be 'optically clear' like mylar, it might be a bit cloudy. How much is a sheet ? maybe a few of us can go halves or thirds or something.

I'm a bit of a wuss with my machine, after spending so long taking off the old mylar, scraping off the glue, polishing etc I would be a little worried of sticking something on it unless I was nearly 100% sure I wasn't going to have to go through the whole removal again shortly after.

Also for anyone wondering, the only areas that lifted for me was the top right edge of the "database" decal on the fall left ball grabber, not the writing, just the border and the sticker - DOH!

Cheers,
Snippy.

knight76
26th January 2010, 07:43 PM
Plus I am not sure how the contact would go dealing with the heat from any inserts it covers. The heat might send it cloudier still after a while and bubble it up.

pinball god
27th January 2010, 09:19 AM
Gday,

I'm at work today but from memory it is rounded corner rectangular for the side that goes down right in front of the actual target, and the other side of mine kind of had triangles like on the back of a dinosaur. Only 2 or 3 largish triangles though. It looks very factory job to me, not sure about an operator cutting mylar with such precision. I'm happy to take photos and stick a ruler or something onto it so you can try to measure it out, or even if you want me to try and trace it onto a sheet of paper and send you the paper or something like that ?



I know the contact you're talking about - I think the issue you might have is that the contact probably isn't all that hard wearing, so like you said you might have to replace it. It may also not be 'optically clear' like mylar, it might be a bit cloudy. How much is a sheet ? maybe a few of us can go halves or thirds or something.

I'm a bit of a wuss with my machine, after spending so long taking off the old mylar, scraping off the glue, polishing etc I would be a little worried of sticking something on it unless I was nearly 100% sure I wasn't going to have to go through the whole removal again shortly after.

Also for anyone wondering, the only areas that lifted for me was the top right edge of the "database" decal on the fall left ball grabber, not the writing, just the border and the sticker - DOH!

Cheers,
Snippy.

That would be great if you could take a photo or two and measurements. That would help greatly.

The price for a sheet of mylar is about $55 + postage. Granted the sheet covers a whole playfield but a bit of overkill for the area I'm wanting to cover. But I'll probably get a sheet regardless.

Scratch2k
27th January 2010, 10:13 AM
See my thread for some tips, my mylar looked exactly like yours:

http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php?t=26930

As you've found, heat works a treat but you'll still take a long time to get all the residual gunik off. I found the most success (after getting the mylar off with heat) using a magic eraser then a dremel on low speed.

The magic eraser is the key, just don't worry that the surface looks like crap as you work on it, it will come up a treat after going over with Novus.

snippy
29th January 2010, 06:59 AM
Hi,

Just a quick post before work, sorry i've been really busy lately. I measured the long straight edge to be 135mm, that excludes the rounded corners. It's not an easy shape to measure perfectly, I have traced it onto a sheet of paper, i can post you the page if you like ? That way you should get a pretty perfect copy.


click here for a large pic of mylar outlined in green (http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/TargetsMylar/IMG_3344edit.jpg)

http://home.exetel.com.au/snippy/images/t2Pinball/playfield/TargetsMylar/IMG_3349.jpg

Cheers,
Snippy.

pinball god
29th January 2010, 08:23 PM
Snippy you're a pal PM sent