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MrMaloo
7th August 2009, 02:27 PM
Title: Dr. Who
Manufacturer : Bally
Year : 1992

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Quote from Tony at The Pinball Shed :



Also worked on plenty of these in the last year, most common problem is the mini playfield assembly. Replaced 3 motor and gearboxes. No dramas replacing this assembly, pretty straightforward, only 2 wires to solder onto the motor, they don't mark which goes where but if you put on wrong the machine will give you a startup message that the motor is reversed. The 5 grey mushroom button switches at the front of mini playfield are also an area needing repairs in most cases. Behind the buttons are 5 sets of opto switches, these cop a hammering in gameplay, if one stops working, you may as well change the 5 of them, when you have it apart.
The 3 pop bumpers always need attention, I have found on Dr Who and Fish Tales ,the pop bumper bodies are always loose from the playfield, there are 2 screws inside the body that will tighten things back up again. In most cases they will always have one or two broken light sockets inside the bumper. I just remove the old style and replace with the newer type, that is available with the longer and thinner wires that feed down underneath much easier.
The Dr Who game is very popular with Dr Who fans and the game has a good strong following.

stuba
7th August 2009, 02:49 PM
dr who is a game where i've had problems will divots in the outhole to shooter lane, ball gets stuck in a divot and dissapears and then weird stuff happens when it can't be found. its worth checking the lane for divots and filing them out.

Railways
7th August 2009, 10:08 PM
One particular problem that was a bug bear was the mini play gear box. One of the gears inside the gearbox is only a "press fit" and after years of playing the "pressfit" gear in question says - no more - easy fix after drilling the gearbox apart. Another big prob is the playfield glass switch which was fitted I think to stop dickheads putting there fingers in the MiniP/F . beware of that. otherwise a fun game to play.

centrlink
7th August 2009, 11:54 PM
A great game, and I got a great machine from Tony (Pinball Shed).

Only minor problem I've had is the pop bumpers - just need to tune them (very easy) to keep them in great popping order.

Cheers
Simon

Supremicus
8th October 2009, 04:16 PM
Prob the wrong section to be posting this but is there any recommended adjustments to the miniplay field while its out to replace the opto's ?

ItsUrFeminitzNYImNietYoma
22nd July 2015, 04:58 PM
If you unexpectedly find this coming out of your tardis instead of a ball:

http://www.aussiearcade.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80801&stc=1

Then part of your Armature Assembly has broken off:

http://www.aussiearcade.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80803&stc=1

If you look at page 2-35 of your manual, you can see it's attached to part no A-15580 which is 13 in the diagram:

http://www.aussiearcade.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80804&stc=1

I ordered a spare from Mr Pinball (http://provider1.cart.net.au/epages/mrpinballtrial.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/mrpinballtrial/Products/A-15580) or you can search the net for part #A-15580 (http://www.aussiearcade.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=A-15580) .

While waiting for the replacement, I found that (mine!) if you super glue it back to the shaft, it works pretty much flawlessly:

http://www.aussiearcade.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80802&stc=1

Make sure the machine is off for this part:

To take out your existing Armature to super glue back together (if possible) or to replace with a new Armature, just un-tighten nut 8 in above diagram.

When the nut is released, take off 6 (Bell Armature Stop) & 10 (spring), then slide the 13 (Armature Assembly) up from the bottom of the Coil Assembly (11) and out through the top. You can do this all without undoing any other screws or bolts.

To replace the mended (or replacement) armature, first put the black end of the armature up through the hole in the metal case. This can be a bit fidgety but eventually at the right angle it will go through. Lift it carefully until the bottom of the armature is at the top of the coil assembly, then let it fall down. Then just reattach the spring and Bell Armature Stop and nut (in that order).