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MrMaloo
6th August 2009, 08:25 PM
Title : Last Action Hero
Manufacturer : Data East
Year : 1993

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Last action Hero.The playfield magnets, these are very troublesome, most times the small magnet board underneath has a blown transistor that has also taken out the fuse beside it. These magnets are really a large coil that can burn out, these can be checked with a multi meter to ensure no dead shorts.

Werwolf
22nd October 2009, 03:01 PM
If you put a 0,27uf cap between the clock signal and ground of the 74HTC273 the static noise would trigger the IRL540's. After this mod no more trouble with the magnets or the board.

Hashman
25th October 2011, 09:13 AM
If you put a 0,27uf cap between the clock signal and ground of the 74HTC273 the static noise would trigger the IRL540's. After this mod no more trouble with the magnets or the board.

I am just about to do this repair. Problem is being such a noob, I can find pin 11 being the clock signal as its listed on the schematic but not sure where pin 10 (ground is). Also wondering which cap is the best to use as ive seen .27uf and .22uf being used to repair. Hoping one of you pinball tech gurus might be able to help? Would love to finally have my magnets in my LAH going for the 1st time in 10 years. :)

Ive attached pics of the the magnet board, the caps i have and the schematics.

29616296172961829619

I am also using this information from ipdb. "Add a .22uf capacitor on pins 10 and 11 of the IC chip on the auxillary board and replace the fuse. Problem solved."

Homepin
25th October 2011, 10:49 AM
Simply connect the cap between pin 11 (clock) and pin 10 (ground).

The chip pin numbers 10 and 11 are the two bottom ones in the picture you have of the top side of the board - pin 10 is the bottom left and pin 11 is the bottom right.

Pin 10 is not shown on that circuit diagram but if you look at the spec sheet for a 74273 you will see it is clearly ground.

I would use one of the greencaps. The difference between 0.22 and 0.27 is so small it won't matter for this application.

I am in the process of re-making this board for production and I have included this mod :)

Hashman
25th October 2011, 10:55 AM
Please excuse my absolute stupidity but do you mean t hese two? Sorry. I can solder but im not very good at reading spec sheets :(

29635

Homepin
25th October 2011, 10:59 AM
Yes - they are pins 10 & 11

Just shorten up the leads on the cap - I would lay it flat on top of the IC and bend the legs down to the IC pins and solder directly to the IC pins making sure NOT to short to adjacent pins.

Hashman
25th October 2011, 11:23 AM
Youre a legend! Thank you so much. You just answered my other question haha. Very exicted to get home and try my magnets!

I noticed that marcos specialties in the states sell what looks to be a newer version of these boards.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/product.asp?ic=520%2D5068%2D01

Well evenwith my shaky hand i managed to solder then to the ic pins. One is soldered to the top and one slightly on the side but both solders seem strong and i didnt short the adjacent pins. Hopefully itll work when i get it home. Thanks heaps for your help homepin. much apprecited.

29636

Homepin
25th October 2011, 11:31 AM
marcos price USD$150 OMG! :o

I plan to sell them for about AU$60~70

Please see my PM about confirming sizes Hashman.

Hashman
25th October 2011, 10:20 PM
Well unfortunately it didnt work. Still kept blowing F9 fuse. At least I learnt something about schematics as i went over and over the sheets making sure i had the right pins and they were. I read on another site that someone also changed the mofsets so maybe that would help as well. oh well :(

back to no magnets

Hashman
25th October 2011, 11:12 PM
This link tells me to replace the mofsets as well as ad the cap. Will order some and that as go as well.

http://www.techdose.com/repairlog/Repairing-a-Data-East-Last-Action-Hero-Magnet-Controller-Board/306/page1.html