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jstr
12th April 2009, 12:05 PM
Hey,

This is my first arcade restoration project. I figure I will learn a lot as I progress. I got rather low grades in all the workshop units at school, and that was 15 years ago, so I know I am going to suck every time I have to do something practical. I did however do well at tech drawing and I work as a software developer for a CAD company, so I should be good at the design side of things. I will have to measure 8 times, and cut once, very, very slowly.

I bought the cabinet on ebay. I think it is a taito, however the control panels have been removed, and new ones added that protrude from the side of the box. They are pretty ugly and a small chunk of the cabinet was removed to insert them.

These are the general problems with the machine that need to be fixed:

1. Legs are very rusty
2. Glass is very scratched, and painted black on one side ( I want to replace it with a smoked clear pane of glass)
3. Top wood pane is in pretty bad condition.
4. Control panels are ugly, and need to be replaced.
5. Case is non JAMMA
6. Power supply is return 10.5V instead of 12 and 5.3V instead of 5. (its very old and menacing)


The cabinet came with a game, Repulse, 1985 Sega. It was quite enjoyable, but I killed it with static 2 days ago. I feel like I have committed a crime against the preservation of antique gaming, but I don't think there was much I could do, I was very careful with it and kept it in its bubble wrap.

These are the photos of my work so far:

http://picasaweb.google.com/jesse.chilcott/CocktailRestoration?feat=directlink

I've derusted the legs with pretty amazing results. I've cut a new top pane, but the inner left edge is a bit wonky, so i will try to sand it down a bit with a Dremel tonight.

I also painted the black bar on the bottom of the cabinet with a can of dulux I got from Bunnings. It turned out pretty good, so I will paint the entire metal undercarriage like that soon.

dezbaz
12th April 2009, 12:43 PM
Hey,

This is my first arcade restoration project. I figure I will learn a lot as I progress. I got rather low grades in all the workshop units at school, and that was 15 years ago, so I know I am going to suck every time I have to do something practical. I did however do well at tech drawing and I work as a software developer for a CAD company, so I should be good at the design
1. Legs are very rusty
2. Glass is very scratched, and painted black on one side ( I want to replace it with a smoked clear pane of glass)
3. Top wood pane is in pretty bad condition.


Welcome to reno land
Just keep makin' progress, never stop, or it will die

jstr
12th April 2009, 01:47 PM
Thanks mate,

if any one has any pointers then please mention them. There is a good chance I am doing something wrong just because I am unaware of the alternatives.

dezbaz
12th April 2009, 01:55 PM
Thanks mate,

if any one has any pointers then please mention them. There is a good chance I am doing something wrong just because I am unaware of the alternatives.

Use primer / surfacer if painting, I actually use car spray putty as well. Then I sand using 240Grit white sandpaper and then use satin black not gloss

jstr
12th April 2009, 01:59 PM
I bought a can of gloss, and a can of metal primer (the gloss had metal primer in it , but I just wanted to make sure the job was done correctly).

Whats the difference between satin and gloss? Is satin slightly less glossy?

dezbaz
12th April 2009, 02:10 PM
If you use gloss then use 400 grit paper as the scraches will be visible on shiny gloss

Satin is flatter, and more forgiving, and looks like plastic, where as gloss is shiny and reflective and unforgiving

Foot
12th April 2009, 06:32 PM
Making good progress, keep it up. The drawing/ plans in one photo look nice - much better than I can do.

jstr
12th April 2009, 08:43 PM
Thanks for the encouragement. I just spent 30 minutes sanding the inner square strait, and my girlfriend just wants me to work on one corner. She is extremely retentive and has taken the role of QA.

So far I haven't done anything severer planning, except just transfer a few drawings i scribbled down to send to friends over msn.

I need to order glass for the top. I got a few quotes here and there. Does any one know what type of glass to use? Would smoked glass be appropriate?

dezbaz
12th April 2009, 11:38 PM
Clear glass if the surface underneath is perfect, smoked glass if not.

I prefer clear myself

It's a preference thing too.

jstr
13th April 2009, 08:27 AM
I see. I might go smoked because I am missing the skirting for the screen (or bezel or whatever, I new to all the terms).

daics3522
13th April 2009, 08:54 PM
If you use gloss then use 400 grit paper as the scraches will be visible on shiny gloss

Satin is flatter, and more forgiving, and looks like plastic, where as gloss is shiny and reflective and unforgiving

I also found with GLOSS you will need to leave the top for 72 hours++++ otherwise every finger print will show if the paint is not 100% fully dried.

jstr
14th April 2009, 07:45 AM
Thats interesting. I've been wondering what paint to use the paint the lid. Would that also be satin?

jstr
21st April 2009, 09:13 PM
Finally replaced the lid:

Old lid:

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/61pJX00Y3_MsuITzorLLTw?feat=directlink

new lid:

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/kQj0-5r2xT8GhEWa9cF5hw?feat=directlink

photo doesn't look that good, Ill take a photo in the morning with better light.

Used iron on edging, 15 mm ply wood, and satin finish paint.

dezbaz
21st April 2009, 10:07 PM
Big difference good 1!

jstr
2nd May 2009, 12:05 PM
Yesterday a big parcel arrived at work full of all the goodies I ordered from GameDude ( Thanks Dorian for the AA discount! ). It contained a 48 in 1 board, some zippy joysticks, a new set of buttons, a psu, a harness etc.

I spent several hours trying to get dc out of this new psu even tho i can see ac power going into it. Either I am doing something wrong (very likely) or its a doa. I then decided to hook everything back to my old psu. The PCB said no more than 5.5v and i was getting 5.23v unloaded, so there was no problem there.

Wiring the cabinet was a bit of a pain, and I haven't wired up p2 yet. I haven't got the right spanner to open the control panels and monitor has a different socket, so i just riped all the wires out at the old non-jamma harness and then matched stuff up via continuality tests.

Then I booted it up, and YAY, works fine. Initially the screen was centred to far to the right but i adjusted that now.

When I can get into the control panels I will wire it up properly, and also restrict the joystick to 4 way. Things are looking good for my old cocktail cab now :)

mxd
2nd May 2009, 01:12 PM
well done your doing some great work there.

TurboTom
2nd May 2009, 06:40 PM
I spent several hours trying to get dc out of this new psu even tho i can see ac power going into it. Either I am doing something wrong (very likely) or its a doa.

Is the PSU a Min Dong? I purchased one from Gamedude recently. I was told it's auto switching between 110v and 240v. But it didn't work through a 110v stepdown transformer but it does hooked up to 240v.

jstr
4th May 2009, 04:52 PM
Is the PSU a Min Dong? I purchased one from Gamedude recently. I was told it's auto switching between 110v and 240v. But it didn't work through a 110v stepdown transformer but it does hooked up to 240v.

Thats exactly what it is. So should I hook this thing up before the transformer? So I would have:

ac - transformer - monitor
|_ min dong psu - components

TurboTom
7th May 2009, 07:11 AM
Yeah, but just take into consideration you will have 240v exposed at the front of the powersupply.

jstr
7th May 2009, 01:18 PM
I wired up P1 control panel. Looks much nicer. My gf has beaten my highscores already. :(