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stuba
30th March 2009, 07:39 PM
Well here’s one that might interest a few people as we don’t see many of these in Australia. This is a 16ft (4.9m), 750lbs (340kg) monster EM bowling game. Manufactured in 1962 by United. United was bought out by Williams in 1964 and Williams moved to the United premises in Chicago and still make slot machines there to this day.

The machine is a United Capri. Flyer and pics from Clays site can be see here.

http://marvin3m.com/bowl/capri.htm

This is a 6 player EM that comes in 4 separate sections. I was lucky enough to score this machine as a project from some arcade machines, jukeboxes and pins that Retropin scored as a bulk lot.

I plan to restore this machine over the next couple of months, my goal is to have it ready for a meet we are planning loosely for July (if all goes to plan a special kiwi feast is planned!).

Anyway, here are the initial pics. The condition of the machine is as follows:

Backglasses – both 9/10 – here is the upper backglass, there are a couple of spots that I plan to fix up with some photoshopping.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture007.jpg

Here is the lower backglass. This has one spot that will need a little touch up as well.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture013.jpg

The lane itself is a laminate and is in very dirty but good condition. There is one chipped area that I plan to touch up with some 2 part coloured epoxy. The chip could be left alone as it doesn’t affect gameplay but I plan to give this one the ‘works’ so will try and repair it fully.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture009.jpg

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture011.jpg

The frame is solid oak and makes up a lot of the 340kg. It has nearly 50 years of scrapes and scratches but I have a feeling that with a light sanding and treatment that it will look fantastic. It is furniture grade timber and will come up really nice.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture012.jpg

The pin unit is not in good condition. The way these things work is that each pin is on a solenoid that retracts the pin when a lane switch is activated by the ball. The switches can be seen here:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture002.jpg

The switches are just in front of the pins so the ball looks like it is hitting the pins but it is a bit of an optical illusion from 16ft away. There are a few broken switches (2 are missing altogether). The pins themselves will need a bit of work (dirty and a some a bit misshapen and cracked). All swing up mechanisms will need rebuilding.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture001.jpg

The pin uplift mechanisms and coils, some not working, bent housings, gummed up actions.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture004.jpg

There is a pin reset motor where the windings have broken. The cam is badly worn and this will require a major rebuild. Many of the pin coils poorly adjusted/bent (don’t know how many of the coils themselves are ok yet). Some broken leaf switches.


The hood unit (home of the lower backglass) is pretty simple in comparison. This is basically just a light board. The cool thing about this is that just like in real bowling it lights which pins are still standing after your bowl.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture014.jpg

The coin unit is in fair condition. No key of course so it will need to be drilled out. There may be more surprises inside.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture008.jpg

The ball return unit. After your bowl the ball it finds it’s way onto an elevator that takes it to the top of the rear unit and allows it to roll down a ramp which returns it to the front of the machine (VERY cool!). The elevator unit will need a rebuild and re-lube. Note the copper tubes which allows the ops to oil the motor bearings (I’m already stressing about what condition they will be in when I open that up).

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture018.jpg

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture019.jpg

Silent ball return rubber. The photos look worse than it really is. A heat gun and some care will most likely get it back to working condition but you can also buy replacement rubber which I’ll probably do just to get it looking shmick.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture.jpg

The main backbox. Basically the rear of the machine is the brain. It could be loosely described as a 6 player EM pinball in terms of logic but anyone that has seen the backbox of a 4 player EM pin will know just how much gear lives in there. The score reels, the score motor and the pin count units. There are 4 motors and 102 coils in here. I’m pleased to report that it looks super clean. Contacts will need adjusting and cleaning and counters and motors will need rebuilding but at least there is not a layer of the usual filth and black dust!

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture015.jpg

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture016.jpg

All in all there are 102 coils and 4 motors and about 40 switches that drive this unit. It runs on 117 volt US power so will need to be driven off a step down transformer for the time being. It pulls 3.5 amps @ 117v. There are 2 transformer taps @ 50v and 6v but a couple of things like the elevator motor run on 117 raw.

The really great thing about it is the dusty crud covered envelope with rusty fasteners that was in the back. It had the full schematics and coil and motor specs. The schematics fold out to be about 1m by 3m and I’m sure they get a fair bit of use in the next few months. Anyway, I’ll update the thread with progress as I go along. Thanks to DavidAVD who happened to appear as I was moving it into the gamesroom, hope you recover soon...

Arcade King
30th March 2009, 07:48 PM
What a beast Stu I can't wait to play it :D

Foot
30th March 2009, 08:14 PM
Wow that head box reminds me of the 1950's lift motor room at work

The wood work will come up a treat!

arcadus
30th March 2009, 08:38 PM
Excellent score! Condition looks great for it's age and complete.
EM paradise :D

slevbro
30th March 2009, 10:11 PM
WOW.:o...That is a great score.....good luck with all those switches,looks like a bloody bingo machine....no wonders it heavy.
Looks like it will look great setup..well done on picking that up.

hamish_nz
31st March 2009, 05:47 AM
WOW cool machine

must be very rare in AU

AskJacob
31st March 2009, 08:26 AM
Absolutely beautiful. Been fascinated by these ever since I saw a picture of one years ago.

Very few around, great score. Look forward to seeing how you progress.

PS Don't freak too much about those bearings - they will most likely just be sintered bronze sleeves so will clean up easily.

Would love to play one - and if I owned one would probably spend most of my time "under the bonnet" just fiddling and watching how it works...

Cheers
Jacob

Gav
31st March 2009, 09:11 AM
An exciting Restore, look forward to updates. I've always wanted one of these but unfortunately room factor will see me without one :(

GORGAR 1
1st April 2009, 01:28 AM
Great score:D will follow your progress closely..

Peter

Skybeaux
1st April 2009, 07:18 AM
Awesome looking machine Stu , should clean up a treat:023:

Railways
1st April 2009, 10:21 PM
Love the woodwork and the sheer size of it--whoever said bigger is better is spot-on:023:

stuba
2nd April 2009, 05:48 PM
thanks for the postive comments guys. i hvae fallen in love with this thing, it will be the centre piece of my games room when done.

stage 1 complete. logic dictated that i should start with the playfield switch deck. it had a couple of missing and broken switches and most were rusted and non functioning.

here's a pic of a particularly bad section:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture021.jpg

you can see below a broken switch and whats left of the gutter ball switch on the far left. the other gutterball switch is missing altogether..

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture024.jpg

here are the newly manufactured switches:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture025.jpg
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture026.jpg

any farm boy knows that there's not much that can't be fixed with no 8 fencing wire. only prob is that whilst its the right guage it does lack the tensile strength of the 1962 stuff. i don't think it will matter though for this use.

i removed every switch and cleaned off the rust, re-installed and then tested every switch with a multi meter, many needed some fine sanding of the contacts but pleased to report that they are all working reliably now. it should make diagnosing the backbox possible now. The original metal switches are black and my replacements are silver so i put black heatshrink on them - don't know how well that will last but we'll see. here's the finished deck before i re-installed it:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture030.jpg

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture032.jpg

if your eyes are good you'll spot the gutter ball switches. I don't know the optimum length of these as i do not have any balls to test with (they are enroute from the US) I expect that i will be able to cut them back a bit when i can test them properly.

one comment I'll make is that American manufacturing in the 60's was amazing. this thing is beautifully built at every level. something like this will look just as good in 50 years time and be just as functional. i sound like an old fart when i say they don't make em like they used to. todays shit that only lasts for the life of the warranty is a long way from this.

I drilled the coin unit lock, no surprises, just an empty coin box. I'm going to have to rig a credit button but obvioulsy don't want it visible.mmmmnnnn.

WOKA
2nd April 2009, 08:00 PM
What a beauty..!

dmworking247
2nd April 2009, 09:44 PM
I'm super jealous of such a showpiece, although still not as much as your asteroids. *sob* :)

stuba
3rd April 2009, 06:24 AM
I'm super jealous of such a showpiece, although still not as much as your asteroids. *sob* :)

well you know you are always welcome for a game dale;) the asteroids is not working and requires a full rebuild and possibly a new monitor. still a great score but not without some pain before the gain..

hamish_nz
3rd April 2009, 06:57 AM
super cool

green with envy:088:

Brad
3rd April 2009, 11:22 AM
This is indeed a beautiful piece of vintage gear. I'm always amazed where you guys pick these things up.

Brad

stuba
7th April 2009, 01:31 PM
some new stuff done:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture038.jpg

had to rebuild/replace this broken cam switch on the pin reset motor. pinched a part from some junk lying around and it seems to do the job.

heres the replacement:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture039.jpg?t=1239074622

rebuilt the pin reset motor, the windings had broken, this pic before power soldered back on:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture040.jpg?t=1239074656

I pulled out the ball elevator motor and the assemblies and chain drive:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture041.jpg?t=1239074687
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture042.jpg?t=1239074708
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture044.jpg?t=1239074735

the motor was turning but it was pretty tight. the oil inside was gummy so I gave it a good degrease and topped it up with fresh stuff - the motor turning a lot easier now:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture046.jpg?t=1239074781

the motor coil paper is burnt but I think coil is OK, resistance is OK.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture043.jpg?t=1239074939


the chain lift is a mess, the links rusty and gummed up. next job is to takle this with degreaser, rust remover and get it back to running freely.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture048.jpg?t=1239074819

parts arrived today, will take some pics and post some details next...

retropin
8th April 2009, 08:36 AM
Good to see this baby being restored Stu!!!

If you heat up those new roll over switches to red/orange hot and plunge them straight into cold water it will give them more strength and they shouldnt bend out of shape for you.

Gonna be a popular machine when shes done!!!

stuba
8th April 2009, 08:56 AM
Good to see this baby being restored Stu!!!

If you heat up those new roll over switches to red/orange hot and plunge them straight into cold water it will give them more strength and they shouldnt bend out of shape for you.

Gonna be a popular machine when shes done!!!

cheers gav! good tip thanks. temper those puppies :-)

famous last words and touch wood but getting pretty close to putting juice on this baby. there is a complex reason as to why I haven't but in simple terms the moment I power this thing I'll find excuses to stop the cosmetic work. I'm kind of teasing myself lol and forcing myself to do this properly.

Murphy's law dictates that when I finally do power up the transformer will be rooted. lol

Foot
8th April 2009, 05:33 PM
cheers gav! good tip thanks. temper those puppies :-)

famous last words and touch wood but getting pretty close to putting juice on this baby. there is a complex reason as to why I haven't but in simple terms the moment I power this thing I'll find excuses to stop the cosmetic work. I'm kind of teasing myself lol and forcing myself to do this properly.

Murphy's law dictates that when I finally do power up the transformer will be rooted. lol

Good way to do it Stu, once it gets going the work tends to stop - Keep it up!

stuba
11th April 2009, 07:52 PM
still chipping away. worked most of today on the beast. if i never see a stepper unit again it will be too soon. there are 13 of them in this thing and I rebuilt 9 of them today. none were working correctly, mostly gummy and too tight. one was seized completely.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture105.jpg

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture102.jpg

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture104.jpg

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture106.jpg

the shaft of that solenoid in the last photo was the reason it had seized, the coil tested good so just a case of fine sanding the shaft and coil sleeve, working good now.

most who know me also know i am an EM virgin. possibly not the smartest thing to start with a bowler but getting there, the last stepper i rebuilt only took about quarter of the time as the first one.

much more stuff done as well:

new pins fitted for old ones.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture086.jpg

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture082.jpg

the ball lift motor and chain assembly was completed and re-installed. I basically degreased this and cleaned. it took a long time to get all the links moving freely (thank you RP7!):

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture094.jpg

ball guides rust treated:
before

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture096.jpg

and after:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture097.jpg

the light box globe holders are all corroded. note the corrosion on the bulbs themselves:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture067.jpg

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture068.jpg

i used the dremel to sand all these out, the dremel is a great tool for this but it still took ages. i'll do another update tommorrow but planning to get juice on it soon.......

coolspot
11th April 2009, 11:07 PM
hey stu i hate the stepper units aswell ive got one and i hate having to pull them apart:cry

Falcon
12th April 2009, 09:29 PM
great work Stu
Keep it up, Will be an awesome feeling when you have paled your first game.
Now get back to work ;)

revolt
12th April 2009, 10:05 PM
Wow, what an amazing old machine!

stuba
13th April 2009, 04:34 AM
well. the old girl fired up. not without the usual dramas. when working on solid state gear i always leave connectors disconnected when i first power up to isolate as much as i can if transformer/rectifiers aren't in spec. to cut a long story short did the same here and it took a while (and the schematics) to realise that the line return went thru a connector to complete the circuit. the orange wire into this connector is the transformer 120 volt common.....after connecting this it powered up - the reset bank coil (120 volt) locked on straight up and it took a while to figure out that moving the score motor position corrected this. shite! not good for the nerves.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture116.jpg

messing about i wondered what the clips were at the top of the backbox.....

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture119.jpg

geez! that makes cleaning steppers and score reels a heap easier, wish i had of done that 2 days ago....doh

anyway, the good:

trasformer voltages are in spec
the game starts
it scores properly - except for the 7 and 10 pin switch
the pin reset motor works perfectly
score reels reset

the bad:

the ball lift motor only works for 60 seconds before it seizes - the problem happens even without load - back to this in a sec.
a couple of lane switches don't seem to register - need to figure out if this is the activator switch (unlikely) of the relay or switchbank (more likely).
a couple of pin retract coils not working properly (coil makes funny noise like its trying, will try adjusting or maybe coil needs replacing)
there are quire a few bulbs that aren't working (they will just need adjustment)

the only big problem is the ball lift motor:


http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture093.jpg

I think there is a bit missing here, if you see where the shaft comes thru on the right, there is a flat bit on the shaft - i think that it should have some sort of metal cyclinder on it so it keeps the armature fully engaged - just a suspicion but i think the seize happens when the armature drifts to the right and becomes disengaged from the gears, a quick bang on the end of the shaft will get it going again. Ideas? BTW this thing runs really hot, not sure how normal that is....

arcadus
13th April 2009, 09:09 AM
Between the armature and end cap there should be a slightly bent spring steel washer that allows a bit of give and keeps the armature in place. Alternatively take the play out with a washer or two.
The length of shaft protruding with the location flat suggests that there would have been a fan fitted.
Maybe similar to this.

stuba
13th April 2009, 06:10 PM
Between the armature and end cap there should be a slightly bent spring steel washer that allows a bit of give and keeps the armature in place. Alternatively take the play out with a washer or two.
The length of shaft protruding with the location flat suggests that there would have been a fan fitted.
Maybe similar to this.

you got it! two washers fixed it. the shaft gets a wobble after about a minute, this was progressing to a seize, it was the end of the armature getting too close to the end cap. I tried the counter weight but made no difference - probably made it worse. washers kept the distance just right, it still gets the wobble but it corrects after about 10 secs. still have a couple of switch errors that I'm chasing down but definitely feeling like i'm over the top and coming down the other side - we'll have a fully working bowler soon. :-)
what a journey

GORGAR 1
13th April 2009, 11:02 PM
Awesome job well done-please small video on youtube of this baby working would be funtastic..

Peter

DKong
13th April 2009, 11:09 PM
I am loving this thread, great stuff, appreciate all your EM findings too, agree stepper units are hard enough when there is one but multiple must of done your head in :)

Where did you find the new pins?

Agree on wanting to see a vid of it in action. Its going will be the restoration thread of the year without a doubt.

Keep up the good work looking forward to the progress:023:

stuba
14th April 2009, 09:04 AM
Awesome job well done-please small video on youtube of this baby working would be funtastic..

Peter

will do pete. agree that its the best way to appreciate it.


I am loving this thread, great stuff, appreciate all your EM findings too, agree stepper units are hard enough when there is one but multiple must of done your head in :)

Where did you find the new pins?

Agree on wanting to see a vid of it in action. Its going will be the restoration thread of the year without a doubt.

Keep up the good work looking forward to the progress:023:

thanks DK :-)

probably a good time to give Doc Doom a plug. his website is

BigBowler.com (http://www.bigballbowler.com/index.html)

this guy rebuilds a lot of these. he works out of Indiana in the states. In Australian terms we would call him a "character"! He is a funny bugger that has supplied the parts I needed, much of the advice I needed and a fair few wisecracks. :lol

the rubber (not installed yet as i want to sand and polish the timber first):

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture085.jpg

the pins:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture086.jpg

the balls:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture084.jpg

and new leg levellers of course:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture087.jpg

other bowler part resources are:

http://www.chicagopinball.net/#

http://www.competitiveproducts.com/index.php

Topcast no 8 (http://marvin3m.com/top/)

which is the latest release also deals exclusively with bowlers. Clay did an XLNT job on this one and I found it very useful. A must have for any one attempting one of these. Clay didn't always respond to emails when I was trying to source gear but I guess he is a busy guy and probably has a mountain of email to sort through. :unsure

Once I found Doc Doom though I was set.:)

stuba
15th April 2009, 01:12 PM
I've spent the last couple of sessions working through some switch problems. I found this to be very interesting and I know the technical minded amongst members will also:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/DeckSwitches.jpg

This is the 'logic' plan of what pins tumble on what switches are hit. I find it amazing that an engineer could tackle this with only EM parts. The solution is screaming for an IC! The switch combinations close a relay for each pin scored (a single switch like for instance the H switch closes down the 3,5,8 and 9 relays).

My problem was that the number 9 relay was not closing - this turned out to be a poorly adjusted switch on the number 9 relay (telling the relay it was closed when it was still open). Adjusting this meant that full scoring was then active and working properly. This meant that I could score my first strike shortly after (with my hand lol - too bloody hard with the ball!). The only pin deck problem now is that the number 10 pin is not retracting - this is cosmetic only btw but i will chase it down - testing with MM indicated no power getting to coil so suspect another switch issue.

Next things to do:

Dremeling the light sockets was not enough - the white powdery stuff is still stopping connection between the globe pegs and socket. If anyone has any ideas let me know :unsure I will probably try vinegar/water solution on a cotton bud next to see if that will dissolve it and allow connection. alcohol maybe?

whenever i coin up it starts a 6 player game - driving me nuts - poring through schematics to try and figure out what's going wrong..

game selection switch does not work - it is stuck on regulation until I can figure out why. unable to teset the 'flash' game and motor until i get this sorted.

pin retraction units need to be stripped, cleaned and lubed. they work ok but would look better if they were snappier. cosmetic only.

then its time to novus the deck, sand and polish the oak and install the new rubber. then shoot a video ;)

Virgil Tracy
15th April 2009, 08:29 PM
Great looking game almost tempts me to get back into the hobby. EM games have a great feel

stuba
16th April 2009, 08:40 AM
Great looking game almost tempts me to get back into the hobby. EM games have a great feel

great to see a post from you VT and thanks :) I have to say that I have enjoyed this more than any other resto's I have done. I understand you have quite a few of these older EM arcade games. I plan to tackle a pitch and bat next but have a couple of other project possibilities in this area. I know where a shuffle bowling alley is as well that needs restoration. PM me if you are interested in having a look at anything.

Virgil Tracy
16th April 2009, 06:23 PM
great to see a post from you VT and thanks :) I have to say that I have enjoyed this more than any other resto's I have done. I understand you have quite a few of these older EM arcade games. I plan to tackle a pitch and bat next but have a couple of other project possibilities in this area. I know where a shuffle bowling alley is as well that needs restoration. PM me if you are interested in having a look at anything.

Cool PM on its way

Fair Dinkum Dan
18th April 2009, 07:15 PM
Great restoration thread Stu, and what an awesome score. :023:

'On ya Gavin for being lucky enough to pick it up in the first place. Not to mention anyone else who was involved.

Great to see you resurface Sean. Hope to see more of you around here too, mate.

Not trying to hijack the thread, apologies if so, but I would like to put this next part in as a side note.

I was listening to Topcast #21 again this morning. It was Clay Harrell (Shaggy) interviewing Rob Berk. Rob was responsible for starting up Pinball Expo in Chicago back in 1985, which is still going strong to this day. One thing that both Clay and Rob touched on, in this interview, is that although they both have a great love of pinball, there are so many different novelty EM arcade machines made in the 50's and 60's that deserve just as much attention. Companies such as United, Genco and Chicago Coin, to name some of the manufacturers who made some wonderful EM arade games. Especially, because of the way in which the designers of these wonderful EM games were able to design and put these things together, to make them work with what they had in the day. As Stu mentioned earlier, the way in which these machines were built back in their day to last for many, many years, IMO, is truly a testament to the imagination, ingenuity and sheer brilliance of these designers and engineers. :worship:

Cheers,

Dan

stuba
18th April 2009, 07:42 PM
not a hijack at all Dan, very worthy comments. what these guys did to create some of these games with the technology they had is amazing. the bowler is a great example but the gun games, the pitch and bats, EM motorbike games, boxing games, flying games. its well worth a look on pinrepair at some of these games and interesting to note how collectible they are. A guy like me that started on 90's pins and 80's arcade cabs is now selling 90's pins to make room for some of these, it really does round out the games room (and fill it beyond bloody capacity). Pitch and bat for me next when i finish this one. :) and I think VT might have found his next project today as well hopefully ;)

Fair Dinkum Dan
18th April 2009, 11:29 PM
Thanks Stu. The games you outlined are some of the arcade games from the manufacturers I was referring to and a lot of the information about them can be found here at the pinrepair site (http://pinrepair.com/), as you mentioned.

I hope your bowler is ready to play when I next get up that way and I look forward to more updates on your progress on this restoration until then.

Cheers,

Dan

Arcade King
19th April 2009, 07:39 AM
Richard, myself and Sean were lucky enough to have a go on this yesterday and even though it was working 100% it was great fun!
Look forward to seeing it fully working mate :D

Virgil Tracy
19th April 2009, 09:59 AM
The more I think about it the more I convinced that the problem is the spring return on the player step motor.

stuba
19th April 2009, 02:04 PM
The more I think about it the more I convinced that the problem is the spring return on the player step motor.

which prob? the 6 player or the reset loop?

Virgil Tracy
19th April 2009, 04:51 PM
The 6 player, I still think the reset is a switch on one of the score reels not making.

goodolddays
21st April 2009, 09:31 PM
Absolutely amazing machine Stu. My hats off to you for taking on this huge challenge, especially with no prior EM experience. Fantastic effort !:041::041::041:

stuba
23rd April 2009, 11:14 AM
I have been busy rebuilding and cleaning score reels (there are 19 of them and they take about 20 minutes each), I'm only about 1/2 way through (it fixed the reset loop thks sean). I'll put up another post detailing the process that I have found works the best from a fair bit of trial and error.

Here's something I did last night. If you look at this picture you'll see the chain ball lift unit :

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture048.jpg

the stuff on the end of the forks is a waxy resiny stuff that is worn through in places and crumbling. its purpose is to protect the balls from cuts and scratches as it lifts them to the ball return lane.

I originally tried to replace this with felt stick ons, seen here:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture094.jpg

yep. looks like crap and of doubtful effectiveness. then I discovered this stuff (from topcast 8):

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture017-1.jpg

it is a plastic/rubber dip that is used to create handles for tools. You can google for distributors but I bought mine from Prime Electronics in bowen hills.

I cleaned up the forks with 220 grit to leave a clean but fairly rough surface for the stuff to grip to.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture016-1.jpg

you just dunk the metal in (at a rate of 1 inch per 5 secs and out at the same rate)

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Dip.jpg

and here's the finished result (I will put more coats on - 4 hours to dry between)

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/FirstCoat.jpg

I chose red because the damper rubbering at the back of the machine is red and I think it will match nicely:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/Picture098.jpg

pretty cool product, I can think of a lot of uses for it. It has a plastic lid that goes back on but I was still worried that once the can was open it would start to go off but on checking this morning it had not formed a skin at all inside the can.

Emohawk
23rd April 2009, 01:14 PM
nice work that look 100000% better then the felt. That stuff is cool I have some tools that could do with that.

hamish_nz
23rd April 2009, 01:43 PM
Well done a great solution

stuba
24th April 2009, 10:51 AM
Thought I would put up some pics and detail re the score reel rebuild process:

The score reels are held in with 2 screws, once removed the whole unit will slide out, it is still soldered to wires so you can't move it too far away. The reel itself is held in by 3 screws and a clip. remove these taking care not to let the clip fly away (#$#$# clips)..

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/ScoreReel1.jpg

worthwhile noting the reel is 'keyed' so it can/should only go on one way, there are three plugs that sit in their corresponding sized hole so idiots like me can't stuff it up.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/ScoreReel2.jpg

after the reel is off then remove no1 - the screw holding the upper switch, then loosen the other switch screw so you can slide the switch away and up without having to remove it.

remove the clip at no 2 and spring at no 3 and then remove this cam, its always the stickiest and sometimes you have to degrease it a bit to get it off, some of these have been completely seized, this one wasn't too bad..

remove the coil (no4) and the spring at no 5 (already off in this pic) then the whole nylon cam unit at no 6 will lift off.

you can see the purpose of the rebuild in this pic, all of that grease and dirt is like thickened honey and it restricts the movement and reset of the score reel badly and sometimes completely.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/ScoreReel3.jpg

I drop the removed parts into a shellite bath and hit them with a brush to get all the crud off, do the insides of the shafts with a cotton bud.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/ScoreReel5.jpg

go at the axles themselves with paper towel and shellite, I use cotton buds near the bottoms and sometimes a screwdriver blade to scrape the stuff that has set hard.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/ScoreReel4.jpg

once its cleaned up I do the switch contacts with this thing (a tongue depressor with 600 grit wet and dry super glued to it, my kids are good at making them lol).

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/ScoreReel6.jpg

I lubricate the metal on nylon parts with dfl - dry film lube. this collects no dust and is not moist, it should prevent this happening again for a long while. the topcast guys use teflon gel, i reckon this stuff might be a better solution as it is not wet, time will tell. nylon on nylon needs no lube and don't lube the coil shaft!

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/ScoreReel7.jpg

reassemble and test by flicking the coil shaft, it should click around cleanly and snappily and the switches activate in the 0 position. done. 18 more to go :blink:

tnpshow
24th April 2009, 02:02 PM
What a fantastic machine and fascinating thread - thanks for sharing this stuff!

More! More!! :D

I definitely want to see this thing in action (and, hear it too). Can't wait for a vid!

My missus would kill me for bringing one of these home but I hope to own one day an EM shooter or driver. These machines fascinate me more than anything else!

Thanks again

TC

coolspot
24th April 2009, 04:47 PM
hey stu what are you using the lube stuff on your not suppose to use flammables

Arcade King
24th April 2009, 05:05 PM
Very nice post Stu. I really enjoy reading on how things work and how to repair them when broken :)

AskJacob
24th April 2009, 05:15 PM
hey stu what are you using the lube stuff on your not suppose to use flammables

It's a dry teflon lube, not WD40!

After about 30 seconds the solvent is GONE, leaving a non-flammable dry lube film behind.

Cheers
Jacob

arcadus
24th April 2009, 09:48 PM
Excellent going! Must remember the plastic dip, I'm sure I could have used it in many applications.
I've been using drylube for a while now, no problems with it.
Vaseline should be left where it belongs...umm bathroom..whatever.
I have used drylube on nylon to nylon, only because the mech was binding no matter what and that worked.
Love the work and the updates!:023:

DKong
24th April 2009, 09:55 PM
Reminds me of when I did my EM pinball score reels were crudded up, cleaned them up and they ticked over perfectly, game is still working great in its new home.
Funny your posts about clips and then realising the whole mech comes off, was the same a simple cotter pin and the whole mech slide out ( usually the clip flies away lol). I had four score reels took me a good night (plenty of pot back then makes it easier:lol) had them ticking like clock work.
Love EM's need another

coolspot
24th April 2009, 10:51 PM
It's a dry teflon lube, not WD40!

After about 30 seconds the solvent is GONE, leaving a non-flammable dry lube film behind.

Cheers
Jacob

ok i just saw the flammable simble on it

Falcon
28th June 2009, 11:52 PM
BuMp

Where are you at now with the EM Bowler Stu?
Fantastic restoration your doing there, please keep the updates coming.

dezbaz
29th June 2009, 01:33 AM
Hey Stu

Very Nice

How much power does that sucker draw?

1.21 GigaWatts??

stuba
29th June 2009, 08:15 AM
good timing on the bump and I'll post a proper update shortly but as a result of weekend efforts the bowler is fully working for regulation games. there is a problem with the flash motor/gearbox but this only effects flash games (bowling at a certain time based on flashing lights on the deck for bonuses). I have pulled this (the gearbox) out and will crack the case and see what's wrong. It's riveted so been putting it off :(

there have been a few faults that have taken quite a while to diagnose (one score motor fault and one switch which was a needle in a haystack to find) but very pleased to report she's all going and will be fully functional for the meet in August.

dez - its about 5 amps (@ 120v) say 600 watts. It has been a monstrous undertaking to date but well worth the effort to see it going again nearly 50 years since it was manufactured. It is a major pain in the ass space wise though - it occupies the space of about 6 pins - :cry

Falcon
5th July 2009, 08:23 PM
Pic pic pics please stu.

Where abouts are you having this setup? garage ?
would love to get a hold of one of these big boys.
one day. :)

stuba
5th July 2009, 09:44 PM
Pic pic pics please stu.

Where abouts are you having this setup? garage ?
would love to get a hold of one of these big boys.
one day. :)

yep no worries. have been too busy to update but will get some pics of the finished unit up this week.

bowler lives in the games room. have managed the space better by putting it down half of one wall and backing pins up to the other side of it. cam still get 20 pins in the room with it now but haven't tired the power with everything on yet :redface

Falcon
6th July 2009, 02:51 PM
looking forward to your pics with the work you have completed.
Not very often they show up on ebay or around here in melbourne. :(

P.s - when you take pics, can you show your room please.
very interested. :)

WOKA
6th July 2009, 03:38 PM
What sort of 'interested'..? Do you have a balaclava and gloves..!


:)


:lol

Falcon
6th July 2009, 07:59 PM
Hahaha yep, wanted to know if it was worth the trip in fuel. :D

Nar, to be honest - just like to look and get ideas as to what people do in setting up there arcade/pinball rooms.
I have been thinking about it for a while now, just need the space somewhere :cry .... Maybe i will have to clear out the garage and make a room out of that.

stuba
6th July 2009, 09:49 PM
looking forward to your pics with the work you have completed.
Not very often they show up on ebay or around here in melbourne. :(

P.s - when you take pics, can you show your room please.
very interested. :)

yeah but rooms full of projects atm, not currently set for playing, when i clear the junk (sometime in august ;) ) there will be plenty of pics. there are 2 EM pins in progress together with a pacman cab.

stuba
10th July 2009, 04:06 PM
bowler update (cleaning up a few threads, bah, its friday)

bowling machine is fully functional for regulation bowling.

I had two faults to clear up on this machine:

1. It would not get out of reset loop when starting it. This took me a long time to resolve and several people looked at it, I emailed a guy in the US and messed around with it for a long time going over schematics and all sorts of time wasting.

One day, Travis volunteered to help me with it. He stuck his head in the back and says he spotted a reset switch that wasn't making properly. He adjusted it and then the next time the machine fired up the problem dissapeared. I understandably struggle with this on sooo many levels, he only had his head in the back for 5 seconds, he has never worked on EM's before and there are several hundred switches in this machine plus I had checked those relays several times. I'll leave it there as it upsets me just thinking about it. :(:redface:(
but alas it has continued to start up perfectly since that time.

2. Once it was working correctly we noticed that it was scoring funny - it seemed to be tripling scores intially, it would even score three pins for gutter balls. This was also a problem that took a long time to resolve. Travis took this one on himself as I was working on the Spirit Of 76 (http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php?t=25050)

He set up some diagnostic that traced the problem to the score motor (which he slowed down) and marked with nico pen. (feel free to add/edit AK).

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/bowler/bowler1.jpg

to cut straight to the problem he noted that as the score motor turned the fingers on this bakelite disc that the inside finger lifted slightly as it went over the top of the screws on the plate (not the rivets - but the screws holding the plate in place). this meant that contact was not been made as it turned over these screws.

Fix: Loosen the grub screw and shift the finger cam closer to the end of the shaft giving more clearance over the plate screws and yet still maintaining proper contact. All scoring problems resolved.

This fault was probably caused by me removing the cam to clean the rivet contacts on the plate with 600 grit and then replacing the cam and positioning it too close to the plate. :redface

Other things I did:

New score cards, scanned and photoshopped the old ones.
Cleaned coin unit to remove rust and fix up.
Fixed timber frame around backglass.
Mounted the hood and backglass.

Anyway, heres some pics of my oldest 2 kids having a game:

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/bowler/bowler2.jpg

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/bowler/bowler3.jpg

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/stuba_bucket/bowler/bowler4.jpg

Final things to do:

replace rubber runner along ball return (i have a replacement)
hit the timber with some high grade furniture polish
add an extra rubber damper to the backbox (have a replacement)
replace left hand rubber damper (have a replacement)
make a coin-up contact switch (I don't have any dimes)

Flash Motor:

I need a new coil for a motor that runs the "flash" game. I have a spare but just need to fit it (not easy) and see if that is what the problem is. the motor will turn the shaft but not with any load on it..

this will be going for the hangi meet but I'll warn now that it's 50 years old and bowling harder and faster (especially after beers) does not help to get better scores!! it is switch activated and the speed of the bowl does not matter!!

I'm sure those that see it up close and play a game will feel the same as I do when I play it - a fantastic trip back into gaming/arcade/EM history. it is quite an awe inspiring machine:)

special thanks to Travis for giving up a lot of time in helping to fix those issues :) I'd give you a beer but you already drank them all :p

Arcade King
10th July 2009, 04:15 PM
Nice pics Stu looks fantastic. Was a real pleasure(and pain) to work on but we nailed it in the end.
The only problem you missed to note was the intermittent light problem for the player up/frame and what not lights that come on during game play. Turned out to be a switch that needed some adjustment in the game over relay. Was a real prick to get at too!

PS: Hope that beer is stocked up ;)

Brad
10th July 2009, 04:17 PM
I am drooling to have a go at this fantastic piece of kit. I know ny daughter will not be able to get enough of it either. Roll on the meet!

Well done on the restore Stu........and Trav ;)

Brad

Fish Tales
10th July 2009, 04:51 PM
That is one awesome arcade bowler, am so looking forward to seeing this stuff at the meet. Top work guys getting all this great old gear up and running, and looking sweet-as.
:cool:

David_AVD
10th July 2009, 04:53 PM
...This fault was probably caused by me removing the cam to clean the rivet contacts on the plate with 600 grit and then replacing the cam and positioning it too close to the plate. :redface

Ah, so it was a SIF then (Stuba Induced Fault)!!

Flash Motor:

I need a new coil for a motor that runs the "flash" game. I have a spare but just need to fit it (not easy) and see if that is what the problem is. the motor will turn the shaft but not with any load on it..

Does the motor have two or three wires going into it? If it has three (or two main ones + a capacitor attached), it could be the phase lag capacitor has gone low in value. This is just a stab in the dark. It may not be that kind of motor.

terry007
24th July 2009, 09:05 PM
If you want some "dimes" so you dont have to mess up you coin mech, let me know and I can send you a dozen or so.

Falcon
12th August 2009, 03:20 AM
Very cool Stu, Just wish i could find one myself.
:cry

stuba
19th August 2009, 11:07 AM
There was one on ebay on the GC about a week ago (not working). needed a lot of work but it was older and went for a fair price for someone willing to take it on. I have a big bonus shuffle alley that I have a pin unit coming for in the next month or so. It will be for sale at some stage.

phreak97
14th August 2010, 11:46 PM
wow your bowler is so much cleaner inside than mine..
seems like you must have a nice place to work on yours too.. mines in a freezing cold shed:(

Can you take some photos of the legs which attach the two halves of the lane together? mine are missing and I'd like to know what sort of thing I'm looking for.

ddstoys
15th August 2010, 12:10 AM
Don't worry about finding leg for it in your freezing cold shed sell it to me the wife will divorce me and I'll set it up on her side if the bedroom. Lol. I'd swap my wife for a bowler but I'd feel guilty lol
Posted via Mobile Device

phreak97
15th August 2010, 08:37 AM
hahaha
Posted via Mobile Device

stuba
15th August 2010, 12:24 PM
wow your bowler is so much cleaner inside than mine..
seems like you must have a nice place to work on yours too.. mines in a freezing cold shed:(

Can you take some photos of the legs which attach the two halves of the lane together? mine are missing and I'd like to know what sort of thing I'm looking for.

there are no legs where the join is :unsure

just two feet up where you bowl and then the backbox which sits on the ground..

phreak97
15th August 2010, 06:56 PM
ahhh, I think the bally ones must be different then..