PDA

View Full Version : Terminator 2 Playfield - Restore or leave?



Martyj
26th July 2008, 07:16 PM
Greetings,

I am tossing up whether to have a go at fixing my T2 playfield. It is completely playable, but will need some work. As I discovered (discussed on here previously), my T2 has had Mylar put on the playfield at some stage but after it had worn.
I have got a decal set (non laminated) which can go on, but mylar removal would have to take place. I have got a friend who can 2k clear coat for me once its done.
Thanks to searching on here I will give the shellite / plastic scraper method a run after removing and stripping playfield. I have stripped playfields before but this will be a first time for mylar removal. Below are the images of the worst areas. Basically I am just seeking some advice from the experts here whether I should give it a go or leave it alone and keep searching for another playfield?
:confused:

pinball god
26th July 2008, 07:27 PM
no expert in mylar removal, but looking at the pix, what really have you got to lose? I can see how you are going to make the playfield unplayable by taking it off. Lets see what others say.

AskJacob
26th July 2008, 07:35 PM
WOW that machine has been played hard!

Do I spy dry rub on transfers?

Hmm I reckon that mylar should come off - it must make the ball travel like it is offroad a bit... and will probably only keep getting worse.

Looks like the inserts lifted which started the wear...

I agree with the 'what have you to lose' - worst case you can still keep an eye out for another playfield... Still, as long as you can play and enjoy it.. have fun!

Cheers
Jacob

Martyj
26th July 2008, 07:48 PM
WOW that machine has been played hard!

Do I spy dry rub on transfers?

Hmm I reckon that mylar should come off - it must make the ball travel like it is offroad a bit... and will probably only keep getting worse.

Looks like the inserts lifted which started the wear...

I agree with the 'what have you to lose' - worst case you can still keep an eye out for another playfield... Still, as long as you can play and enjoy it.. have fun!

Cheers
Jacob

Yes, it would appear that some rub on transfers (like I used in my high school projects) had been used. Not quite a McGiver, but points for effort!!
I am hoping that the Mylar over Diamond Plate may make the process a little easier, but who knows. The rest of the playfield looks really good. Those photos are the worst of the worst. Has anyone else had experience with the decal sets?

Arcade King
26th July 2008, 07:54 PM
If its diamond plated the best method is just a heat gun.

Martyj
26th July 2008, 08:01 PM
If its diamond plated the best method is just a heat gun.

Well the areas that are not Mylar'd would appear to have been clear coated. I would think it should be diamond plated under the mylar as the other areas have a nice shine to them.
I don't have a heat gun. The missus has about 3 hair dryers which I could use unless it is not recommended and I will have to go to Bunnings again :lol

Arcade King
26th July 2008, 08:05 PM
no hair dryer is perfectly fine, just go slow and take your time then clean the glue off with Shellite :)

I have a few threads which shows me removing the mylar with a heat gun.

AskJacob
26th July 2008, 08:08 PM
from what googling I could do, it seems that T2 is a DiamondPlate PF...

But I'd prefer someone more knowledgeable to speak up here!

Martyj
26th July 2008, 08:11 PM
from what googling I could do, it seems that T2 is a DiamondPlate PF...

But I'd prefer someone more knowledgeable to speak up here!

Yup and it is screen printed on it stating same! There were Mylar kits available according to T2 Parts list. I don't know whether mine is one of these or DIY.

Arcade King
26th July 2008, 08:14 PM
Probably just an after market job done by an op. At least Mylar removal is much easier on a Diamond Plated playfield.

Martyj
26th July 2008, 08:19 PM
Probably just an after market job done by an op. At least Mylar removal is much easier on a Diamond Plated playfield.

:) Well, if this thread gets moved to the Restoration section, then it will have been a success. If you see me posting more threads or pestering Mark C for a new playfield then everyone will be able to join the dots......:072:

For the existing (screen printing I believe) on the decals, if the Mylar does not remove them any tips on removal / prep?

bwodie
26th July 2008, 08:26 PM
ALL T2 playfields are diamond plated

pinball god
26th July 2008, 08:33 PM
I can second that, T2 diamond plate

Strangeways
26th July 2008, 11:19 PM
Have a go at an inconspicuous area that has mylar. Try a method that you are comfortable with.. As others have mentioned - you have nothing to lose, and if successful, you won't need to look for another playfield..

As Travis pointed out - there are plenty of great threads on mylar removal..

Post your results !

Martyj
27th July 2008, 09:41 AM
Have a go at an inconspicuous area that has mylar. Try a method that you are comfortable with.. As others have mentioned - you have nothing to lose, and if successful, you won't need to look for another playfield..

As Travis pointed out - there are plenty of great threads on mylar removal..

Post your results !

Will do! I've started stripping the top of the PF so I should be ready to roll by this arvo (well top of PF anyway). The underside is a little overwhelming!!!:confused:

Martyj
27th July 2008, 11:44 AM
Mylar removal has been OK. Heat gun has worked well. I've only started in the lower section of PF and removed one section. It looks like the Mylar has been put on after some wear, especially on the decals. I am unsure on how to proceed with the decals. I am thinking maybe using a sharp blade to cut around then remove? I will loose some artwork around the Terminator lower bits, but I guess a little touch up maybe OK?

Strangeways
27th July 2008, 11:51 AM
Mylar removal has been OK. Heat gun has worked well. I've only started in the lower section of PF and removed one section. It looks like the Mylar has been put on after some wear, especially on the decals. I am unsure on how to proceed with the decals. I am thinking maybe using a sharp blade to cut around then remove? I will loose some artwork around the Terminator lower bits, but I guess a little touch up maybe OK?

Have a look on the net for a decal kit ?

Martyj
27th July 2008, 12:48 PM
Have a look on the net for a decal kit ?

Yes I have got a decal set (non laminated) to go down. I am just unsure how to safely get the old ones off. I believe they were screen printed on, then cleared. I just dont want to rip clear coat off where I shouldn't...

Mr_Staypuft
27th July 2008, 01:22 PM
Mmm, very interested to see how you go.

I have T2 playfield issues of my own, and as we've seen in another thread recently
the chances of finding a NOS T2 PF is "not much".

Arcade King
27th July 2008, 01:52 PM
Yes I have got a decal set (non laminated) to go down. I am just unsure how to safely get the old ones off. I believe they were screen printed on, then cleared. I just dont want to rip clear coat off where I shouldn't...

I personally removed the inserts by heating the underside and tapping them out then on a flat surface used 600 wet and dry to remove the decal.
What ever you use to tap out the insert make sure it cover as much of the insert as possible otherwise you risk cracking, for example to remove the arrow inserts from my funhouse i used the bottom flat side of a niko pen.
Clean out any remaining glue from the insert hole and insert itself, reseat the insert then apply super glue underneath to hold it in place.
If you intend to 2 pac clear make sure you glue each and every insert to reinforce them otherwise if they move your decals could lift if the insert moves and you will get a milky patch.

Martyj
27th July 2008, 03:14 PM
I personally removed the inserts by heating the underside and tapping them out then on a flat surface used 600 wet and dry to remove the decal.
What ever you use to tap out the insert make sure it cover as much of the insert as possible otherwise you risk cracking, for example to remove the arrow inserts from my funhouse i used the bottom flat side of a niko pen.
Clean out any remaining glue from the insert hole and insert itself, reseat the insert then apply super glue underneath to hold it in place.
If you intend to 2 pac clear make sure you glue each and every insert to reinforce them otherwise if they move your decals could lift if the insert moves and you will get a milky patch.

I've removed the bottom section of mylar of the pf, which was covering all the decals and the worst of it. I'm slowly removing the glue. I'm also using a bit of the desolvit (on a rag first) to help with the glue. I am guessing that it may have had a decal set at some stage as some have removed off the top of the inserts completely (ie same bits as the stickers I've got to replace). I'm gently using a surgeons knife with heat gun and seems to be working ok, but very slow.
I guess I will have a look when the glue is all removed. The next step will be do I remove the rest in the OK bits, completely strip playfield or just re mylar the lower section with new decals on. Given the playfield is & never will be 100% I don't want to spend all the time and effort just to get an ok result.
The other bit that scares be a lot is the removal of loom, light sockets and rest of u/s of playfield.....:unsure
Below is photo with mylar off and insert decals starting to be removed. I still have a bit of glue to remove, but it is coming up OK. The main issue will the the Terminators shoulders...The blue/white dotted bit which runs across the insert on both sides....

Martyj
27th July 2008, 07:16 PM
OK, I'm done for the day. Lower section of pf is about 3/4 complete. Still have mylar glue to remove on decals and little bits of playfield. I will have to paint the Terminators shoulders back over decal as it was already gone on the r/h/s and beyond saving on l/h/s. I think with the decal set on, it will at least look neater. Still in two minds whether to clear coat or just go the mylar on lower section.

AskJacob
27th July 2008, 07:30 PM
Looks really good so far.

Don't the decals have the shoulder bits on them - or just the text?

Cheers
Jacob

Martyj
27th July 2008, 07:54 PM
Looks really good so far.

Don't the decals have the shoulder bits on them - or just the text?

Cheers
Jacob

No...It has a wiggly bit which sits on the top edge of his shoulder. Unless there is a different decal set...??:unsure

AskJacob
27th July 2008, 08:15 PM
Ah I was just wondering. At least touching it up looks pretty straightforward.

Best of luck!

Cheers
Jacob

Martyj
27th July 2008, 08:53 PM
I was speaking with my panel beater mate who was going to clear playfield..He has not done one before and given the rarety of a T2 playfield he is a bit nervous and not so keen now. I'm the jogger king when it comes to spray painting so I wont be doing it :o
The other option is to re mylar. Now at the moment only the lower section is removed and with new decals & a little touch up should be better. Now I can either apply new mylar just to bottom section, or remove top section and re apply whole mylar. Now I know the pf has diamond plate so not really necessary, but decals have to have it over the top.
Has anyone applied mylar and is it an impossible job? Does the underside of pf need to be removed?
Should I just redo bottom section or whole lot?
Any advice is appreciated! :I_give_up.thumb:

ktm450
27th July 2008, 10:38 PM
I was speaking with my panel beater mate who was going to clear playfield..He has not done one before and given the rarety of a T2 playfield he is a bit nervous and not so keen now. I'm the jogger king when it comes to spray painting so I wont be doing it :o
The other option is to re mylar. Now at the moment only the lower section is removed and with new decals & a little touch up should be better. Now I can either apply new mylar just to bottom section, or remove top section and re apply whole mylar. Now I know the pf has diamond plate so not really necessary, but decals have to have it over the top.
Has anyone applied mylar and is it an impossible job? Does the underside of pf need to be removed?
Should I just redo bottom section or whole lot?
Any advice is appreciated! :I_give_up.thumb:

I personally think mylar is not the best way to go, after a while it start to loose its gloss and ends up looking hazy. I'd approach someone else about spraying it. I have seen a few guys on here who have respayed and the results are fantastic.

AskJacob
27th July 2008, 10:44 PM
I also think that if the mylar starts to lift around the inserts you will be right back where you started - once it lifts, bits of decal/debris trapped between the mylar and the playfield will grind away the decal/paint...

Cheers

Arcade King
28th July 2008, 06:15 AM
while your doing up the Playfield I suggest you buy TOP 4 which has a good guide on clear coating, preparation etc.

Savage
28th July 2008, 11:19 AM
Tell your mate, is he a panel beater or spray painter by trade?

That if 2-pacing to avoiding baking it, just ambient room temp at 25-30 should be fine....

And a good dosing of wax and grease remover, seems like o lot of playfied have silicone all through them..

Strangeways
28th July 2008, 02:41 PM
Go with a clearcoat.. Mylar does slow down games, and it will be noticeable. You can get away with mylar on older games - no problem..

Clearcoat then apply the decals..

If your mate cannot / will not - find someone who can !

Martyj
28th July 2008, 05:12 PM
Thanks for the input guys! I am still umming & arring which way to go. The playfield job was & is just a clean up from what I had. Unfortunately the playfield has a bit of wear / crack in plywood under shooter ramp which makes me lean towards not going the whole hog until I find a more suitable donar.

I have started the touch up on the Terminator's collar struts too.

Before I stick the decals on the inserts, should they get a light sand ie 600 or 1200 grit? They are clean of glue.

Martyj
29th July 2008, 10:57 AM
Minor touch ups done. Still more to go.
Decals going on OK too. Next time I think I would remove inserts, sand flat and reinstall. A little bit dissapointed with the decal set. The white shading (highlights) around the numbers is that faint its pretty much non existant. But better than nothing (or the newsagents transfers which was on previously!)
:107:

DKong
29th July 2008, 04:47 PM
Its looking a lot better,are you going to clearcoat or mylar. I have never applied decals before, do they sit higher than the rest of the PF or flush:unsure

Martyj
29th July 2008, 05:55 PM
Its looking a lot better,are you going to clearcoat or mylar. I have never applied decals before, do they sit higher than the rest of the PF or flush:unsure

I went with the mylar option. I know many others would have cleared it, but for the time and effort to get something done properly, it pf was probably not the right one. The main purpose for this was just to clean up and make it look and play better than what I had. The mylar (original) came off really well, so if I can't get another donar pf then I may go the whole hog on this one down the track.

The decals were actually really dissapointing. Without the white highlighting on them they dont jump out. The decals were actually thinner than what was there before. Unfortunately the decals were also not 100% the right size, so around the edges it sat up a little. I think if I were to have clear coated the pf, there would have been issues.

The whole applying mylar is not an easy task. I'm about 85% happy with it...Still chasing a few little bubbles and a crease, but for a 1st time effort not too bad - compared to contacting my highschool books!
I'm gotta leave the mylar for a couple of days for it to shrink and settle, then I'll polish. There were areas I couldn't touch up...I think if I had of tried, being centre of pf would have looked terrible. Better off left out...

Foot
29th July 2008, 07:59 PM
Looks mighty fine compared to what it was like. Should play much better now!

Strangeways
29th July 2008, 08:14 PM
OK - so you have gone with the Mylar.. Just a tip - Even after you have applied the mylar and waited several days - you may have problems with posts. What happens over time is that the posts may become a little loose, and then they can move around, stretching and moving the mylar. This may take years, but it might happen. sometime you see it in the older games - around posts - it is a "twisting" effect.. The "smashing" of the ball into posts loosens them and "turns" them..

Here's something to think about - Cut the mylar our around the posts (plastic or metal) - effectively, the posts can turn and do what the hell they like, but they will not distort the mylar. They will be directly against the playfield. Use an exacto knife (scalpel), and a cylindrical tube and take your time.

Martyj
31st July 2008, 02:41 PM
OK - so you have gone with the Mylar.. Just a tip - Even after you have applied the mylar and waited several days - you may have problems with posts. What happens over time is that the posts may become a little loose, and then they can move around, stretching and moving the mylar. This may take years, but it might happen. sometime you see it in the older games - around posts - it is a "twisting" effect.. The "smashing" of the ball into posts loosens them and "turns" them..

Here's something to think about - Cut the mylar our around the posts (plastic or metal) - effectively, the posts can turn and do what the hell they like, but they will not distort the mylar. They will be directly against the playfield. Use an exacto knife (scalpel), and a cylindrical tube and take your time.

Trimmed around the posts. Thanks heaps for the tip!

OK, well the mini playfield resto is done, apron restored as best as well. Lot of work, but overall I am happy with the finished product. It plays better and certainly looks better!

Strangeways
31st July 2008, 02:43 PM
Looks great !

How did you go about restoring the Apron ?

That has some serious shine to it - well done

Martyj
31st July 2008, 02:49 PM
Looks great !

How did you go about restoring the Apron ?

That has some serious shine to it - well done

The apron was delivered to my good mate the panel beater / spray painter!

Some decals with a very deep black+2 coats of clear. I'm very happy with it... I cannot take any credit for it!

Strangeways
31st July 2008, 06:37 PM
The apron was delivered to my good mate the panel beater / spray painter!

Some decals with a very deep black+2 coats of clear. I'm very happy with it... I cannot take any credit for it!

Regardless of who did it - you organized it so take the credit !