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View Full Version : Funhouse- yet another funhouse restore thread.



Arcade King
8th July 2008, 08:03 PM
and why not, probably one of the best games ever made which usually gets over looked by some because of its lack of a DMD, don't be fooled though, this game has got almost exactly the same guts as games like Twilight Zone (I always assumed Funhouse was system 11 hardware).

Turned the game on and it works fine, usual things broken, eyelids wont close on Rudy, CPU board has some battery corrosion etc Positive things however the Playfield has very little wear, cab is in decent nic and the alpha numeric displays are like new.

First Pic of when the pin was first assembled
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/DSC00407.jpg

Well to cut to the bones here's a few pics of where I'm at.
I pulled the Playfield out of the cab wires and all, I then decided to separate the wiring, I've removed the solenoid and flasher harness, then the Switch but I've decided to leave the LAMP's on, they should be easy to plug and won't get in the way when we clear.

Playfield out, the Mylar is intact.
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1265.jpg

I've gone over it quickly with some shelite, it looks much better.
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1266.jpg

Now I don't know what I'm going to do here but I have a feeling theres going to be a lot of touch up work involved.
You can see how good the white is on the mylar part but when it meets the unprotected playfield its faded dull(same with the blue) and shit theres also a lot hair line cracks in the paint. Ball swirl marks need to be removed too.
Close up shot of a section of the PF
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/Closeup.jpg

I'm not looking forward to removing the Mylar but it has to be done, the small arrows around the centre of the clock will need to be reseated too.
Any tips, suggestions and comments would be appreciated.

What needs to be done.
Mylar Removed
Inserts reseated.
Playfield cleaned and touched up, Rudy also needs to be done.
Clear coated. I'm actually a bit worried about this, 2 pac seems to have reaction to the bare insert plastic. We had problems when fixing a insert problem with STTNG where when the clear was applied directly on top of the bare insert it started getting tiny surface cracks.
CPU cleaned up and mount remote battery holder, also reprogram the latest version of the roms (which is 2 meg instead of 1) (Done)

What I want to do.
New ramps
New Trap Door
New Cab Decals (long term)
A new playfield would be nice but I can't really justify the price, and where's the fun and challenge in restoring?
I'm sure there's heaps of other things I'd like to do, a game thats worth restoring.

So from peoples experience I take it goo gone or De-Solv-It is the best way to tackle the mylar on a non diamond plated playfield?? I couldn't find De-Solv-It at bunnings.
I will have to grab one of these magic erasers, be interesting to see if it can get the grime out of the paint.

Strangeways
8th July 2008, 08:24 PM
Hmm.. Mylar removal - my favorite !

I think Creech had a go at removing the mylar on his FH with great results. He might have used freeze spray. I guess the key here is patience, and trial and error. The mylar on these playfields is thicker, and the adhesive is generally stronger. Having said that, I removed mylar off a Fishtales with minimum effort - just a hair dryer and some time took care of that..

Arcade King
8th July 2008, 08:28 PM
I guess the key here is patience

Pfffft Patience! who needs it I tells ya, I say just give it the 1,2,3 heave ho rip.

BTW I do recall Garuda (where ever the **** hes disappeared to) sayings hes used freeze spray on early pins with good success.

.................I'm scared!

Pinball Warehouse
8th July 2008, 08:29 PM
Hi Guys, there can never be too many pinball restoration threads. Its get to see all these old girls getting the treatment that they truly deserve.
Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming.

Foot
8th July 2008, 09:07 PM
My experience on Firepower (my 1st attempt at removal) I tried

De-solve-it (from Bunnings ) lots of patience required, work real slow let the glue dissolve, use a blade of some kind, lifted paint otherwise

Hair dryer, worked all right, left lots of residue, don't leave it in one area for to long or it can melt the paint :redface (worse with a heat gun I imagine)

Goof off, good for stubborn glue removal, harsh on paint, I wasn't comfortable using it as the main solvent for mylar removal, can melt the paint if left on for to long

I wish I had of tried the freeze spray, might still do it on the pop bumper mylar (man they are stuck down well, but that's for another thread ;))

Main thing I can say is be patient, walk away and come back if it's pissing you off

humpalot
8th July 2008, 09:34 PM
Funhouse was also made as a system 11, the system 11 ones are the ones with the diamond plate playfields.

Creech
8th July 2008, 09:44 PM
Hmm.. Mylar removal - my favorite !

I think Creech had a go at removing the mylar on his FH with great results. He might have used freeze spray. I guess the key here is patience, and trial and error. The mylar on these playfields is thicker, and the adhesive is generally stronger. Having said that, I removed mylar off a Fishtales with minimum effort - just a hair dryer and some time took care of that..
Don't bother with freeze spray. You will go through heaps and spend lots of money on it. Just go get some desolve-it from the hardware and use an old credit card or those plastic razor blades to slowly work the mylar and glue off. Spray it on liberally, let it work itself in and peel away slowly. Pull the mylar so there is some tension as you are taking it off and then follow behind it with the credit card or plastic razor blade, at the same time spraying with desolve-it.

To clean all the gunky glue off, just use goof-off but be careful as any paint that has lifted will continue to lift a bigger area around it. Only use it in areas where paint has not lifted. To be safe, just use heaps of desolve-it and let it sit for a while. Then wipe off with a clean rag. Do it again and wipe off with a different clean rag.

Strangeways
8th July 2008, 10:04 PM
Don't bother with freeze spray. You will go through heaps and spend lots of money on it. Just go get some desolve-it from the hardware and use an old credit card or those plastic razor blades to slowly work the mylar and glue off. Spray it on liberally, let it work itself in and peel away slowly. Pull the mylar so there is some tension as you are taking it off and then follow behind it with the credit card or plastic razor blade, at the same time spraying with desolve-it.

To clean all the gunky glue off, just use goof-off but be careful as any paint that has lifted will continue to lift a bigger area around it. Only use it in areas where paint has not lifted. To be safe, just use heaps of desolve-it and let it sit for a while. Then wipe off with a clean rag. Do it again and wipe off with a different clean rag.

gunky glue removal - That would do it.. Just to be sure - if you go down the path of using goof off, get the can - about the size of a cigarette packet. Dab some on a rag - never ever - on the direct playfield.... oh - and ensure the work area is well ventilated.

AskJacob
8th July 2008, 10:20 PM
This is gonna be great to follow... I have a mylar removal in the future, so am keen to see how this goes.

And it may make AK slow down to human levels of restoration speed (for a day or two;))

:)

Mickey Juice
9th July 2008, 04:08 PM
Don't bother with freeze spray. You will go through heaps and spend lots of money on it. Just go get some desolve-it from the hardware and use an old credit card or those plastic razor blades to slowly work the mylar and glue off. Spray it on liberally, let it work itself in and peel away slowly. Pull the mylar so there is some tension as you are taking it off and then follow behind it with the credit card or plastic razor blade, at the same time spraying with desolve-it.

+1

Freeze spray didn't do shit on my FH. Desolv-it worked great. You just have to take your time.
Only paint that came up was some of the insert letters that had already lifted with the mylar (stuck to the underside of the mylar bubble).

I'd use Shellite to remove the glue. I wouldn't let Goof-off touch my PF as it removes paint!

I also had the problem with the whites being a cream colour as well as the blues. Not sure if it can be fixed without repainting... :unsure

I tried some ME on the whites, but all I did was remove paint (esp. along the cracks). Others might be able to use it better, but I ran out of patience pretty quick...

http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/2037/whitestn1gn6.jpg

In then end I just repainted the blues and whites!

http://img386.imageshack.us/img386/8296/whitestnin2.jpg http://img387.imageshack.us/img387/2253/whitestn3ka4.jpg

The clear should cover up the hairline cracks (unless they're full of dirt). I had problems with small air bubbles on the inserts after clearing. Probably from the guy clearing it (and baked it). They did have small cracks too so that might have affected it.

DKong
9th July 2008, 04:28 PM
Another for Desolvit, (and slowly) and for glue residue I used Isopropyl Alchohol
http://users.bigpond.net.au/BenWah/Pages/Projects/Firepower1.html (incompleted webpage, I should get around to finishing that someday)

Arcade King
9th July 2008, 05:59 PM
+1

Freeze spray didn't do shit on my FH. Desolv-it worked great. You just have to take your time.
Only paint that came up was some of the insert letters that had already lifted with the mylar (stuck to the underside of the mylar bubble).

I'd use Shellite to remove the glue. I wouldn't let Goof-off touch my PF as it removes paint!

I also had the problem with the whites being a cream colour as well as the blues. Not sure if it can be fixed without repainting... :unsure

I tried some ME on the whites, but all I did was remove paint (esp. along the cracks). Others might be able to use it better, but I ran out of patience pretty quick...

http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/2037/whitestn1gn6.jpg

In then end I just repainted the blues and whites!

http://img386.imageshack.us/img386/8296/whitestnin2.jpg http://img387.imageshack.us/img387/2253/whitestn3ka4.jpg

The clear should cover up the hairline cracks (unless they're full of dirt). I had problems with small air bubbles on the inserts after clearing. Probably from the guy clearing it (and baked it). They did have small cracks too so that might have affected it.

Thanks for the info Mick, I think I will end up repainting the blues and White, I have a antique white colour (water based acrylic) I bought from Crazy Clarks.
It matches the white that wasnt faded real nice, I don't think I want to go with a white white if you know what i mean.


Funhouse was also made as a system 11, the system 11 ones are the ones with the diamond plate playfields.

Taken from IPD


Reportedly, about 200 of the first playfields made were manufactured with "Diamond Plate" covering. Additionally, several years later and due to dwindling replacement stock, a set of NOS replacement playfields was manufactured which also had the Diamond Plate covering, although these are also reported to suffer from having the red color 'bleed' around the center playfield clock.

Also, early production models of Funhouse have the Williams System 11 sound board (part no. D-11581) hooked up to the WPC board (via an adapter), because the WPC sound board wasn't yet ready for distribution.

So only the system 11 sound board was used with an adapter initially which probably accounts for the poor sample quality, shame they couldnt resample it for the WPC.

Thanks for all the input so far fellahs, appreciate it.

DKong
9th July 2008, 06:45 PM
"Ivory white" also matches old PF white very well, I found normal white just to white as well

Skybeaux
9th July 2008, 07:18 PM
Looking good so far.:)
Try the different methods mentioned to remove mylar and see what works best for you.
Don't rush!!...or you could end up regretting it.

Arcade King
9th July 2008, 07:41 PM
theres that don't rush line again! I'm doomed i tells ya!

humpalot
9th July 2008, 08:03 PM
I normally take the playfield outside on a sunny day to help heat up the mylar and glue and use the hairdryer method, then I use a good quality metho to remove the glue, the cheap methos just don't cut it. I find this method works well even on badly flaked paint.

garuda
9th July 2008, 11:13 PM
I never found this to be the case. The most I ever used on an early playfield was 1 can (the small can type from Dick Smith). I find on any playfield that is non Diamond Coat it is easier to remove the glue without harming the playfield than it is to remove the mylar. This is where I thought freeze spray really had it's strength. You could remove the mylar easily using the frozen glue as a protective layer between the mylar and the PF itself. In my experience I also found Shellite much better for removing glue residue than Goof-Off. This said, I think the method is more important than the medium. Take your time and you'll be fine.


Don't bother with freeze spray. You will go through heaps and spend lots of money on it.

Arcade King
10th July 2008, 08:49 PM
I'm going to try the freeze spray, I tend to agree with Garuda. I'd rather be cleaning up glue with Shellite (which is magic stuff) than stripping paint with goo gone.
I just bought a can from dick smith, going to do a test area.

Mickey Juice
11th July 2008, 02:53 PM
Tell us how it goes.

Arcade King
12th July 2008, 07:31 PM
Heres a small update.
I'm pretty happy with the way the freeze spray method is going, only problems ive come across is losing a smidgen of paint on some of the black around a few inserts and I got a bit ahead of myself on the 55 on the clock which pulled some of number off.. I was using a razor blade type scraper but find as suggested in the TOP vids but found it was only really good for lifting the corners to get a start on, I found using it over a insert tended to scrape some black off the edge if the insert was even slightly raised, pulling the mylar off without the scraper was fine.
Another problem has been the glue is super thick and REALLY hard to get off, Shellite wont move it.
I've only done about half because I ran out of freeze spray, I think I was being overcautious and using too much..oh well.
Here's a few pics of where I'm at. first one is how much mylar left to pull off and a shot before I started using the Magic Eraser to clean up the non mylared parts.

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1279.jpg

Check out the difference down the right hand side particularly around Rudy with the umbrella.

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1281.jpg

Its very easy to get carried away with the Magic Eraser, I went a little too far around that area and rubbed some paint off, this has happend on a few parts of the PF but lukily it should be an easy touch up.

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1282-2.jpg

So anyway that's where I am, I fear I will have more lifting problems around some of the badly raised arrow inserts in the clock but I think its unavoidable.
All in all the freeze spray method works well but the glue left over is a real bitch specially if its as thick and hard to remove as what's there now.
The Magic Eraser is amazing also, again very easy to get carried away and start rubbing off paint too, they don't last very long either, I've already used 2.

Strangeways
12th July 2008, 08:15 PM
Betcha feeling a little less nervous now Travis ? :lol

The hard part is almost done, and by the looks of your progress, it has worked our well. Magic Erasers don't last that long, they do their bit and then throw them out. I've noticed that areas of high impact, not wear, can already have paint cracking that you cannot see until you either lift the mylar, or commence removal of the residue. This happens around pop bumpers (as you have found) and around slings.

Very good stuff... It will turn out VERY well methinks :)

Arcade King
12th July 2008, 08:17 PM
Still think I should brave the crappy glue removal with Goof Off?

Strangeways
12th July 2008, 08:22 PM
Still think I should brave the crappy glue removal with Goof Off?

Try a test section...

I used it on one of my favorite games - Paragon, and I had no problems at all. Used it on a Fishtales - again - no issues.

I ALWAYS try Shellite FIRST... but if it is stubborn, I go straight to goof off.

The only disaster I ever had was on a Bally Star Trek where I poured a small amount on the PF... The liquid went through the paint (already lifting), into the wood, and then lifted the surrounding paint... Scary.. Since then, I've used goof off on a rag first and then lightly rubbed it in... It will evaporate in time.. stinks like hell..

stuba
12th July 2008, 08:23 PM
i used turps on my wh20 mylar glue, not for any other reason than it was nearby at the time. it worked a treat and no negative effects a couple of months down the track....

Arcade King
13th July 2008, 10:11 AM
Yeah but isnt white water Clear coated? I'd be very hesitant on using turps on a bare playfield like Funhouse.

Mickey Juice
13th July 2008, 04:03 PM
Did you find De-solv-it? It breaks down the glue pretty well.

Arcade King
21st July 2008, 08:52 PM
Just an update of where i'm at now.
I ended up removing the rest of the mylar with the freeze spray, in hind sight I could have probably done the whole thing with one can, what I realised is the first can was missing that little tube that goes in the nozzle. Second time around spraying it on was much more effective with one in.

Heres the playfield after all the mylar was removed, as expected the raised arrow inserts around the clock didnt fair too well. All in all very pleased with the freeze spray method.

http://aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1289.jpg

Leftfovers :(

http://aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1291.jpg

I've decided to take the inserts out and with some 600 grit wet and dry sanded all the decals off.
Luckily there's a play field decal set available for funhouse so I think this is the best way to go. The 55 and Million Plus will also have to be removed and sanded, they didnt fair too well either.

Removed the inserts using a heat gun from the back side and lightly tapping them out with the back of a niko.

http://aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1293.jpg
http://aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1298.jpg

After all this i decided I can't put off glue removal any longer, I tried quite a few different methods including Goof Off "GASP"
Goof Off didnt really do squat either to this mutant glue, all that happened was the surface of the glue sort of went slimy, I couldnt ball it up. (similar thing when I tried ISO Propyl for the hell of it)
I did about 1/3 of the playfield using a combination of Goof Off then Shellite, I didn't feel comfortable leaving the goof off on too long.
Turns out the shellite with a bit of elbow grease did the job, I first just rubbed some Shellite in and allowed it to dry, then rubbing with my finger tips I managed to get the glue off slowly but surly ( I now have no skin left on my fingertips).
Whole process from mylar removal to glue removal would have taken at least 4 hours or more.
There is a fair bit of cracking through the paint on the PF but you cant see it unless you look real close, I'll feel much better when this thing is cleared..
Now I reinserted the inserts one by one. On Black Rose I used super glue gel and put some on the lip in the insert hole then quickly inserted the inserts, I didn't really like this method because it was one big rush to get the insert level.
This time I decided to put the insert in first then use normal super glue from the underside around the insert. Don't be afraid to use a bit to lock those inserts in tight, I found the superglue did not cloud up the plastic at all so go nuts. I didnt go the gel here because the regular think super glue soaks in and gets down those cracks between the insert and wood and is much easier to apply.

This is probably the MOST important step, if you skimp on this you may find 3 months down the track you start seeing milky lines around the edges of your inserts as we found out the hard way with STTNG.
What happens is the insert can move due to the heat from the globes, because the clear is basically an adhesive the insert pulls away from the decal on top and your left with a milky mess that looks awful.
Bunnings was pretty expensive for super glue, it was like $3 for one 3ml tube where Crazy Clark's had a pack of 6 for 2 bucks, they also had super glue Gel for 99c
I'm going to do a thread on this topic on its own some time soon.

Heres a pic of where I'm at right now. I've played around with touchups but I suck...Mickey!!!!!! need your wisdom.

http://aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1310.jpg

A word on Magic Erasers
While they are great and all be very careful, I managed to do more damage to the paint cleaning it with a Magic Eraser then when Lifting the mylar.
I first tried it on the most dirty spot above Rudy's umbrella but I got carried away and rubbed paint off, not a heap but enough to piss me off mainly because its a prick of a thing to touch up well. The more I fiddle the worse it gets :(
anyway just take it easy with the erasers, I did go through just a ants shit worth of blue above the sling shot area but if you compare some earlier shots of the playfield I think you will agree it was worth it.
Although there are a few spots that could clean up better, I feel I'm gone as far with the Magic Eraser as I feel comfortable with.

TheYellowDart
21st July 2008, 10:21 PM
Nice work AK. Seems to be a fair bit of praise for the freeze-spray method of mylar removal. I've been removing the mylar on my Rollergames over the last couple of days using shellite to soften the glue and while I'm yet to have any paint from the playfield lift so far (fingers crossed) my insert decals have fared quite badly. Because of this I've halted progress and am considering my options. While I think it's probably feasable to touch up/repro black decals there are 6 large colour decals on RG which I think would be quite hard to reproduce.

I was actually initially planning on using the freeze spray method but cracked the shits and went with shellite after not being able to find any on the afternoon I intended to start. Seeing how well your insert decals have fared I'll have to put some more effort into finding a place that sells it.

Shock_And_Awe
21st July 2008, 10:35 PM
Good resto thread Trav. Just on insert decals, I put insert decals on a number of inserts on my Addams and after a few months I noticed they had started to bubble and went kind of weird. I sent a pic of this to Classic Arcades where I bought them and he said they looked heat affected and I should not have been using #44 globes and should have switched to the cooler #47s. This happened maybe 2 years ago but I have not heard it happening to anyone else. When I finally get around to fixing this prob I'm thinking of going with LEDs to eliminate any heat. What's your thour thoughts on using LEDS on "repaired" inserts? Do you think it could help with the moving insert problem?

Strangeways
21st July 2008, 10:39 PM
Good progress Travis.

Looks like Goof Off is not as effective on later playfields as it is on older games.

Magic Eraser is great for removing ball swirl, and surface dirt. Sounds like again, it is not as effective. Did it remove ball swirl ?

narf_
22nd July 2008, 12:36 AM
nice work trav

i got the tip from gibo to run 47s as they run cooler

DKong
22nd July 2008, 02:30 AM
Well done Travisss :cool:

LOTR4U
22nd July 2008, 08:49 AM
Nice work Truvis!

spacies
22nd July 2008, 09:10 AM
Not worth the risk is it? Go LED.

AskJacob
22nd July 2008, 11:31 AM
[holding spacies down]

"Hey guys I got him! I got the LED pusher right here!"

;)

---

By the way, can anyone confirm for me that the LEDs do run cool or 'cooler' ? I assume that they still use a resistor to drop the current to the correct level so there may still be some heat?

Cheers

spacies
22nd July 2008, 11:33 AM
Nah, I am not a pusher. LOL
I don't have any in my pins. I am just saying that why risk it if LEDs are available.

AskJacob
22nd July 2008, 11:41 AM
Yah. I reckon if they last as long as promised then they are also most likely good value too - especially in hard to get to locations, or heat sensitive locations (like a TZ clock, or under AK's clearcoat;))

Just wish they could soft start and fade like a real lamp. That is still to me part of pinball...

spacies
22nd July 2008, 11:48 AM
Well at least now you can get Diffused LEDs so the light isn't so directional.

A cheap bastard can just sand the plastic casing with some 400grit sandpaper and that will diffuse an LED ;)

AskJacob
22nd July 2008, 11:53 AM
Well at least now you can get Diffused LEDs so the light isn't so directional.

A cheap bastard can just sand the plastic casing with some 400grit sandpaper and that will diffuse an LED ;)

Or dip them in MEK :)

I was impressed with the LED setup in wheel of fortune. They were really used to advantage in that machine - so I guess if they are designed with them in mind from the start then there can't be any nay-sayers!

Cheers

Supremicus
22nd July 2008, 12:03 PM
Nice work trav.

retropin
22nd July 2008, 12:07 PM
A few points to remember about LED's

They are very susceptable to voltage fluctuations and as such your power supply must be fully regulated.
Voltage drop on a red LED is approx 2.2v, this divides into a 12v or 24v supply quite nicely. IMO red LED's are THE most stable colour.
White LED's on the other hand can be 3.6v drop across them. This doesnt divide into 12v or 24v nicely. If you run your LED's at over voltage this will shorten the life quite considerably. White WILL dull down by at least 20% after a few months of use.

Your LED's will be divided into groups of 4 or 6 or so, this is for a reason. It is so that the voltage across them is correct. If one pixel ( LED) goes out or fails then you have an OVER voltage on the rest and this will shorten the life of the remainder.
The SWMPS that feeds the LED's regulates the current only, not the voltage supply.
Any guarantee given on LED's needs to be scrutinised. If you can get the guarantee to be for each individual LED then no worries - can take em back if they start to fail. But normally, the guarantee is for the whole strip, you may have 1 LED working on a strip of 6, but you cant get your money back.

Nothing is perfect - Light globes fail and so do LED's, but weigh this up with the reduced heat and power consumption and LED's are a great innovation for pinballs

mjdoz
22nd July 2008, 12:16 PM
By the way, can anyone confirm for me that the LEDs do run cool or 'cooler' ? I assume that they still use a resistor to drop the current to the correct level so there may still be some heat?

These are the ones I am trying in my Space Invaders in the Dead and POP bumpers. Draw around 100MAH each. The resistors (15R x 2) do not even get warm in my testing.

Full thread to come.

Pictures show Dead Bumpers Left to Right Original cap and #44, Original Cap + LED, New Cap + LED

Others show the LED ready to install with 2 resistors and the original LED and the sanded one to remove and directional lighting

Michael

BTW I am not Cheap I used a dremmel scrollsaw with sanding disk to dull the LED's ;)

Arcade King
22nd July 2008, 06:31 PM
Good progress Travis.

Looks like Goof Off is not as effective on later playfields as it is on older games.

Magic Eraser is great for removing ball swirl, and surface dirt. Sounds like again, it is not as effective. Did it remove ball swirl ?

Mate the magic eraser was brilliant. I guess the dirt was pretty bad and noticeable in the non mylared areas. It was working so well but like I said earlier I just went a little too far.
I'd use them again in a heart beat, I'd just wouldnt push my luck is all.


Good resto thread Trav. Just on insert decals, I put insert decals on a number of inserts on my Addams and after a few months I noticed they had started to bubble and went kind of weird. I sent a pic of this to Classic Arcades where I bought them and he said they looked heat affected and I should not have been using #44 globes and should have switched to the cooler #47s. This happened maybe 2 years ago but I have not heard it happening to anyone else. When I finally get around to fixing this prob I'm thinking of going with LEDs to eliminate any heat. What's your thour thoughts on using LEDS on "repaired" inserts? Do you think it could help with the moving insert problem?

Yes LED's would be the way to go under any insert, as they say prevention is better than the cure and considering this problem is heat related LED's make sense as they generate next to no heat.
Under where those 3 large green shield inserts is where I had the big problem. The area has 2 555's and 1 large flasher bulb under every insert which I imagine would generate a lot of heat.
The problem only showed up when the weather started to cool down.
If I knew what I do now I would have gone through and reglued every insert before clearing and probably would have only gone with 2 coats instead of 5.
One thing Clay does stress in his TOP vids is more coats of clear is not always better, I now know first hand why.
Funhouse has no clear to begin with so I reckon 3 coats will do, 2 initially then a sand then 1 final coat.

silverbak
22nd July 2008, 11:36 PM
Great thread, Im learning heaps

When you clear coat do you have it baked? If so, do you do the 2 clear coats first, sand it, do the last coat and then bake it?

One day Ill be brave enough to try this myself

Arcade King
26th July 2008, 07:15 PM
Great thread, Im learning heaps

When you clear coat do you have it baked? If so, do you do the 2 clear coats first, sand it, do the last coat and then bake it?

One day Ill be brave enough to try this myself

nah no baking, I'm sure if Savage reads this he'll give his reason why but I'm sure he has in other threads somewhere.

Well heres my touch ups thus far. Been dabbling in different brands of water based acrylic and brushes.

The brand on the left I got from Crazy Clark and they are around $3 a tube.
I didnt much care for the quality of the paint, I found it too watery and you got far to much bleed through which means a lot of coats, its just too bad I bought most colours they had before really testing the stuff. The Black however is fine.

The one next to it I got from Bunnings and they cost about $4 a tube, what can I say and excellent product which really has made a huge difference. I bought about 3 different colours to try this morning , Sap Green, Warm white and Pacific Blue.
I bought a pack of brushes from Crazy clarks but they were pretty crap, The one in the picture is from bunnings and they range anywhere from $4 to $12, very high quality, its just a shame they didnt have all the different types there, I really could have used the fine one but the one in the pic is very thin and works great for fine lines on the side.

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1314.jpg

The JO SONJA'S Green turned out to be too light the Kaiser Green is too dark I might try mixing them.
I like the JO SONJA'S Warm white I tried it around one of the the pop bumpers and looks good. I tried the Kaiser "Antique White" just below the hole but like I said the Kaiser shit is too watery and took a few coats, not to bad but I prefer the Warm White. You cant see it very well in the pics but theres a lot of cracking in the white around rudy where hes dropping with the umbrella. I really don't know if I should just leave it or touch it up. Because the Warm White isnt a perfect match I would have to do the entire thing..

Anyway heres some pics

First one is the area as it was before mylar was removed and playfield cleaned.

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/Untitled-1.jpg

This one is when Mylar removed and cleaned with the Magic Eraser, you can see the damage I did.
I should have taken another pic when I did even MORE damage to that area when I used some 1500 wet and dry to try scuff it up a bit to get that crap Kaiser paint to hold.
I got the info from one of the TOP DVD where Shaggy says he goes over the PF with 600! Stupid Stupid idea. Not only did I remove even more paint, I ****ed Rudy up even more and most of his hand was gone and the left side of his face.

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1309.jpg

Heres the pic of where I'm at now. I'm really happy with the JO SONJA'S Pacific Blue, as you can see it looks fantastic even though its not a perfect match. I think I'm just going to touch up all the light blue to blend it all in, this paint is great! Look how well it covered the wear, Savage was here today and seen how bad it was compared to the pic above.

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1313.jpg

So to sum up, Use good quality brushes and paint :p
Still a lot of touching up to do but rudy was going to be the hardest and I'm real happy with the outcome considering how bad I ****ed it up and the fact I cant paint for shit.
Think I should brave doing that white part around Rudy?

AskJacob
26th July 2008, 07:27 PM
Looking good. Looks like the magic eraser only took off the paint that would have come off at some point anyway as is doesn't look like it was keen to stay on the PF around those cracks.

Just getting that crappy browned mylar off made a huge difference!

Cheers

Arcade King
26th July 2008, 07:52 PM
Well I should have made it clearer that the 2nd pic the area around Rudy which was filthy was was originally not mylared, you can see the cleaner mylared bit just up in the top left on the pic above the umbrella.

AskJacob
26th July 2008, 07:57 PM
Well I should have made it clearer that the 2nd pic the area around Rudy which was filthy was was originally not mylared, you can see the cleaner mylared bit just up in the top left on the pic above the umbrella.

:) Ok other way round. Wow then - massive sales pitch for the magic erasers then. Even more impressed with what you've done now!

Cheers

Arcade King
26th July 2008, 09:30 PM
anybody know how many clear double star posts this thing has? want to do a order with bay area but lost where i had it written down :b

Strangeways
26th July 2008, 11:26 PM
Outstanding work Travis - very impressive. You have gone down the track that I have not had any success with. Well to be completely honest, I have not really had to do touch up work, but as this thread develops, I will be trying it.

Touch up work is not really covered anywhere in great detail. Keep up the good work.

Skybeaux
27th July 2008, 09:25 AM
That's looking really Great!!....Excellent job!
The magic eraser looks to have worked wonders.

I've also found the Jo-Sonja's paints to work well...an elderly lady who does arts and crafts put me onto them.:lol
Tamiya brand hobby paints are also very good.

Arcade King
30th July 2008, 07:30 PM
Heres a quick touch up progress update

http://aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1337.jpg

Just been doing a bit every night, done all the blue on the right hand side and most of the white. Its all been done by hand, look any good you think?..be honest.

Creech
30th July 2008, 07:34 PM
Looks ace from here. Just curious, can you see many brush marks (I assume you're brushing) or does the paint settle once you apply it? Keep up the good work.

I think Funhouse gets the award for the most restored pinnie on here.

AskJacob
30th July 2008, 08:08 PM
Mate that white has made it really pop out.

That is the bit I think that really has made the most visible difference :D

Keep plugging away.. it looks damn fine.

Cheers
Jacob

Strangeways
30th July 2008, 09:17 PM
Exceptional progress, Travis... Same question as Creech - Brushmarks - Can you see any ?

I'd love to see a close up of the RHS, compared to the untouched LHS...

Impressive work...

..any reason why you didn't look at airbrushing ? Curious - as I want to have a go using an airbrushing technique..

stuba
30th July 2008, 10:31 PM
for someone that said they didn't have the patience for this sort of work you look like a pro. looks great. my wife's been looking for someone to paint a family portrait??

:badgrin

DKong
30th July 2008, 10:45 PM
Looks brand spanking new, :cool: you little artist AK :lol

edit maybe a Big Artist :lol

Supremicus
30th July 2008, 11:47 PM
**** thats looking nice trav

Arcade King
31st July 2008, 06:22 AM
Exceptional progress, Travis... Same question as Creech - Brushmarks - Can you see any ?

I'd love to see a close up of the RHS, compared to the untouched LHS...

Impressive work...

..any reason why you didn't look at airbrushing ? Curious - as I want to have a go using an airbrushing technique..

Funny thing is I bought one of those Preval aerosol spray gun things a few weeks back when me and Scott were doing some touch ups on black Rose and did some spot clearing. Why I didn't Air Brush? to be honest never even thought about it.
I'm only using very fine brissled touch up brushes so unless you look about 5 cm away from the playfield you wont see it.
Things you also have to remember is none of the white is really visible, its all hidden under plastics and pop bumpers. We are also 2 pac clearing it so everything should blend in nicely
The white shows up any imperfections a lot worse than the Blue, The blue is actually quite good. I've had to go over the white a couple of times.
I'm not sure how I could have airbrushed the Blue, there some fine touchup areas there, I suppose I could have done the white but like I said it all gets covered so even a really crap effort wont really get noticed.
A lot of the areas towars the back you wont see at all but I'll do them anyway.


for someone that said they didn't have the patience for this sort of work you look like a pro. looks great. my wife's been looking for someone to paint a family portrait??

:badgrin

I don't really thats why I'm doing a bit at a time, its pretty boring work.


Looks brand spanking new, :cool: you little artist AK :lol

edit maybe a Big Artist :lol

A bull shit Artist you say ;)?

Mickey Juice
4th August 2008, 03:55 PM
I got the info from one of the TOP DVD where Shaggy says he goes over the PF with 600! Stupid Stupid idea. Not only did I remove even more paint, I ****ed Rudy up even more and most of his hand was gone and the left side of his face.

He wasn't talking about diamond plate playfields was he?

Also, if you don't get your colour matching spot-on, the clear-coat will make it look even worse.

Arcade King
4th August 2008, 06:34 PM
He wasn't talking about diamond plate playfields was he?

Also, if you don't get your colour matching spot-on, the clear-coat will make it look even worse.

no, I was watching the very first vid about Em's

Thats why I'm doing all the blue and not just the bad bits.

DKong
4th August 2008, 07:08 PM
A bull shit Artist you say ;)?

:lol
Just been playing Funhouse on the Wii Williams Pinball Collection, great game even when emulated.

Arcade King
4th August 2008, 07:31 PM
yeah and hopefully i may even get to play mine some day :rolleyes

narf_
4th August 2008, 08:13 PM
i found my note from my pin saying steel wool and sandpaper on the PF is a big no no

looks good so far trav

Arcade King
4th August 2008, 08:20 PM
Yeah I dunno how shaggy used 600 grit on his PF, bad advice IMO.

LOTR4U
5th August 2008, 08:35 AM
Yeah I dunno how shaggy used 600 grit on his PF, bad advice IMO.

I have seen a couple of things I would say isn't the best advice.

acejas
5th August 2008, 03:00 PM
I have seen a couple of things I would say isn't the best advice.

Curious mate
what were they?

Arcade King
5th August 2008, 07:34 PM
..any reason why you didn't look at airbrushing ? Curious - as I want to have a go using an airbrushing technique..

After watching Darksouls DVD I think I want an Airbrush :D

So to answer you question I never even thought about it or considered it..and I don't own one :(

Mickey Juice
5th August 2008, 09:40 PM
+1 for airbrushing. Gives a nice even coat of paint. No brush marks etc

stuba
5th August 2008, 10:59 PM
After watching Darksouls DVD I think I want an Airbrush :D

So to answer you question I never even thought about it or considered it..and I don't own one :(

got one you can borrow if you want, never been used, another stupid purchase from ebay. its not a bad one quality wise and you can have the compressor as well as long as you promise to make all the mistakes and save some of the pain :-)

Arcade King
6th August 2008, 06:15 PM
sweet, might take you up on that offer. I'll do the rest of the white with the brush, like I said you dont really see it anyway so it can be pretty dodgy.
Might try it on the red around the top, what sort of paint can you use with it? does the water based acrylic work?

Mickey Juice
6th August 2008, 06:53 PM
Yeah you just have to thin it to get it through the gun. I thined it with Chroma 'Gloss Medium & Varnish'.
Tho some paints cover better than others. Blue was the best for me. Red the shitest

Arcade King
6th August 2008, 07:07 PM
yeah the blue im using is great even with the brush, you cant see any brush marks. I'm really happy with it.

Arcade King
12th August 2008, 08:49 PM
UPDATE TIME :sleep

First a before shot

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1266.jpg

Now

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1362.jpg

Close up

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1363.jpg

Not real sure how far I want to take it from here ? I was going to redo the red but decided you dont see the top left of the playfield anyway so just going to touch up the worn through bits.
I'm really happy with the blue considering I did it all with a brush.

nigelicious
12th August 2008, 08:51 PM
Oh Trav you are so gifted.

DKong
12th August 2008, 09:04 PM
Not bad at all, how much time have you spent touching up with your BS Artist skills :lol More time than money I suppose in this area.
I suppose the crunch will be when you clearcoat (fingers crossed for you), now I have to go and play Funhouse on the Wii again happens every time I read your updates (not a bad thing though)

Arcade King
13th August 2008, 06:14 PM
shit mate too many hours I've lost track. I'll feel much better once the clear is on.

Savage
13th August 2008, 06:43 PM
Mate that is looking great.
Job well done....

LOTR4U
13th August 2008, 07:13 PM
shit mate too many hours I've lost track. I'll feel much better once the clear is on.

Well done mate! Glad to see people having a go and doing there best ona resto. :D

garuda
19th August 2008, 06:57 PM
I still prefer a paintbrush but I thin my acrylics with flowtron (that is from memory, if interested message me and I'll get the details from the bottle). I heard from an old painter that dish-washing detergent does the same thing. When they are thinned properly, acrylics with a brush will flow like an oil-based paint and don't leave brush strokes.

johnwartjr
25th August 2008, 11:04 PM
Very nice!

I am always impressed when I see someone doing their own paint, I have no paint skills.

Also thought I'd mention this, although I'm sure most already know it, freeze spray works great, but you can get equivalent results by getting canned air used for cleaning out computers and keyboards, and just hold it upside down while spraying. It's not cheap by any means, but is cheaper than freeze spray.

Arcade King
26th August 2008, 06:14 AM
Thanks for the tip :)

Shock_And_Awe
27th August 2008, 07:31 PM
I just wanted to add further to the posts re insert decals.... I mentioned earlier that I used Classic Arcade's insert decals on my TAF and they bubbled which I suspected was from the heat of the globes. Anyway, I just bought back a Theatre of Magic that I sold to a mate a year ago that I had put insert decals on a few of the inserts. A year later, same deal, all bubbled and looking like shit! It is obvious the material these insert decals are made on is very poor and does not serve the purpose it was designed for (Classic Arcade' insert decals). End result is if you use insert decals on your playfield make sure to use LEDs to eliminate the heat factor.

Arcade King
28th September 2008, 07:47 PM
Well here's an update.

Decided I've screwed around touching this PF up enough over the months and finally went around to Savages yesterday to get the deed over and done with.
I've done quite a lot of touch up work by hand on this PF so it was make or break time (break meaning if it was ****ed i was going to ride it like a surf board in Scott's pool.
I reckon I must have touched up about 1/3 of the playfield anyway heres the pics you can judge for yourself.

First Pic is of the PF prior to clearing. There were 13 decals that had to be applied prior to clearing( arrows 1 through to 11, number 55 and the Millions Plus).

http://aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/clear/FH0.jpg

Had quite a few pics but I'll cut to the chase.
Heres after about 3 coats.

http://aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/clear/FH1.jpg

Ok after Scott cleaned his gun we did a stupid thing. I was hoping to be able to take the PF home that day so thought well lets put it out in the sun!

http://aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/clear/FH2.jpg

We'll mistake no 1. Just like Mickey Juice's FH resto the playfield developed tiny bubbles from being too hot! so Don't ever have your PF baked or put it out into the sun :x. Stupid thing is Savage said the same thing in Mickeys thread. We didnt think it was that hot of a day but obviously we were wrong.

**** up no 2. This is the biggest **** up! We were standing around the PF admiring it (**** I was stoked) when Scott noticed something wasnt right.
The bloody 6 and 9 were mixed around the wrong way! FFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUCCCCCK!
I COULD NOT BELIEVE IT!
At first I thought it was my **** up but I KNOW I had applied the numbers in order as per the decal sheet. Turns out the clown who printed out the decal set mixed up the 6 and 9!
See the image here on BAA http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-FH777NL&Category_Code=
now picture them on the PF, if you put them in order you end up with this!
You can also see the bubbles.

http://aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/clear/FH3.jpg

Well at this point I was shattered thinking **** why do i get all the bad luck?
We decided because the PF had to be sanded and another coat applied it was best to leave it with Scott. We also thought the best way to tackle the decal was to cut around the inside of the "Black border" and swap them over.
The rest of these pics are what Scott sent me today of the completed job.

BIG THANKS TO SCOTT! LEGEND!

http://aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/clear/FunHouseAfter (1).jpg

http://aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/clear/FunHouseAfter (2).jpg

http://aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/clear/FunHouseAfter (3).jpg

http://aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/clear/FunHouseAfter (4).jpg

http://aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/clear/FunHouseAfter.jpg

Well as you can see it looks amazing, if you look at my pics in the first post in this thread you can see the difference. I'd say 300% better than what I had.

One thing YES I KNOW THE GREEN IS TOO DARK!!!! I spent hours trying to match it with no luck! I just said **** it if I don't do something now I'll never get it done which is why I decided to do the whole section with the one green.
It does look darker in the pics than it does in person though, still the whole thing is much better than I could ever hoped for.
Green is a shit colour and I hate it, I did 99% of the light blue, 80% of the red and parts of the yellow and orange which came out GREAT! (specially the RED and BLUE)
Good way to see how it will look as in a match is take a photo, the camera seems to pick up how good the match is.

Final thoughts...
I'll have to contact BAA as ask them to put some sort of warning on those stickers so others don't get caught out! :x If your laying them straight over the old ones you could easily pick up the problem. I'm just lucky I got people like Scott there to help :) again cheers mate.

Scott used a product called "Flex Aid" in the 2 pac, We are hoping this will HELP prevent the problems I had with STTNG.

AskJacob
28th September 2008, 07:56 PM
What a freakin' adventure.

Looks pretty damn incredible. How long you gonne let it cure before you start putting it back together?

Who says you can't do it with brushes: :D

Cheers
Jacob

Arcade King
28th September 2008, 08:02 PM
Who says you can't do it with brushes: :D

Cheers
Jacob

not me :D

Strangeways
28th September 2008, 08:31 PM
Great update !

Clearcoating is still a mystery to me, but that just looks magic. Looks like a different playfield. Well done.

:038:

LOTR4U
28th September 2008, 08:43 PM
WOW nice one mate! man you getting some tight shit done right there! :D

Savage
28th September 2008, 09:29 PM
It does look good. The camera seems to pic up every little nook and craney that the eye doesn't..

I'm glad I talked AK out of doing anything to it, until the next day!...

Hopefully the flex aid will be the sh1t! with regards to movement...

Now this week and week and will be spent stripping my GnR....

Oh thanks for the props... I take pride in what I do and hate seeing any type of problems!...

Supremicus
28th September 2008, 10:43 PM
Stunning is all i can say about that playfield.

Mickey Juice
29th September 2008, 09:41 AM
Looks good mate.
I know where I'll be sending my PF's to get clear coated! (If I ever do another PF restore)

WOKA
29th September 2008, 11:11 AM
Looking great, and what a prick about the decal..!

Great result.. Maybe my TAF is next ;)

stuba
29th September 2008, 03:33 PM
nice save. appreciate you walking the quicksand to save other lives ;)
looking forward to seeing it back together. it will come up a treat.

Johns-Arcade
29th September 2008, 06:57 PM
That playfield has come up a treat!! Well done both of you. :041:

Regards,

Johns-Arcade.

Arcade King
25th October 2008, 07:55 PM
Bit of an Update.

I've been reassembling the PF the last few days.
Today Burra came around and sprayed around the top of the inside of the cab for me and the back board. I threw some acrylic clear on for good measure.
On the left hand side there was some scrape marks I bogged up.

Well turns out the PF sits to the left and is the reason for the scraping :b so once I put the PF back in and lowered it guess what happened? :b ah well shit happens..
sometimes you have to wonder why go to all this effort? :b am I being too anal?

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1470.jpg

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1475.jpg

Heres where its scraping, you can see it went back to where I bogged it :b

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1476.jpg

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/IMG_1472.jpg

Thanks to Richard for his help :)

Maybe adding another washer on the left hand side will help?

Here a pic of Rudys face Savage cleared for me today ;)

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/DSCF1431 [800x600].JPG

hehe thanks mate :)

WOKA
25th October 2008, 07:58 PM
farking smick-o.. Did you do the inside sides with a can or a gun...? Much prep work or just blast over it all..?

Burra, don't you have shit over at my place you got to pick up..? Ohh.. And bring yah paint too please..!

Looking really good AK.,

AskJacob
25th October 2008, 08:00 PM
Looking good mate.

Make sure your cabinet is levelled properly - my IJ twisted the cab when the legs were out of level, leading to a similar problem..

Cheers

Arcade King
25th October 2008, 08:04 PM
Burra bought his 2.5 HP compressor over and sprayed it. looked fantastic. I used a water based acrylic that I had matched down at bunnings then cleared over top.
Problem withAcrylic clear is it goes mily if too much moisture so I ended up having to go along with a heat gun as I sprayed, worked well.
Anyway as you can see the left side scuffed in exactly the same place as before :b

Arcade King
3rd November 2008, 09:24 PM
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/Rudy-Finnished.jpg

stuba
3rd November 2008, 09:31 PM
looks great! :)

Wotto
3rd November 2008, 09:39 PM
Last face I saw that was that 'glazed' was in a porno email :lol

Now that looks good.

Arcade King
3rd November 2008, 09:41 PM
Yeah I couldnt help myself :)

Strangeways
3rd November 2008, 10:21 PM
Rudi looks like he has been sweating after a "hard" session :)

Looks great.. Can't wait to see the finished product.

Savage
3rd November 2008, 10:40 PM
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/funhouse/Rudy-Finnished.jpg

That looks farkin great. even the bottom lip matches in, eh!

Arcade King
4th November 2008, 07:17 AM
Yeah I ended up using the old jaw. Took about 10 goes to get a colour I was happy with. BTW Good Off was great cleaning it up made it look like new :)

Shock_And_Awe
4th November 2008, 08:36 AM
Nice work. It's coming up great!

AskJacob
4th November 2008, 09:15 AM
Awesome. Man you have some staying power on this project. I would have had many dummy spits by now, would have thrown a blanket over it and sulked for months :D

I want to see more of this machine now!

Cheers
Jacob

Arcade King
12th November 2008, 07:57 PM
Even before I bought this pin I decided from here on in I was going to use LED's in the feature lamps.
Heres a poor quality vid of the LED mod I've done to Funhouse. The reason I say MOD is because all the 555's have been permantly modded with LED's.
The 44's and 906 flasher bulbs I bought from Greg although I havent been happy with the yellow because it looks more orange.
To solve this I used a "Warm White" LED. I was short on 1 yellow 44 for the LOCK so I decided to have ago making my own using a old bulb base and drilling the guts out of it :) works great.

theres a heap of reasons I decided to do it this way.

1. Cost, the whole thing probably cost me 20-30 bucks in LED's and resistors as opposed to hundreds of dollars buying prefabbed ones.
2. I could use exactly the colours I wanted. Experimenting with different types and colours of LED's is a lot of fun.
3. Life of these LED's by rights should last the life of the machine.

Video Quality is shit but it gives you an idea.

YouTube - Funhouse LED's

Big thanks to Johns Arcade, AskJacob and David AVD for all their tech help.
I will post up pics of the underside soon.

AskJacob
12th November 2008, 08:13 PM
That is freakin gorgeous. Very nice indeed.

Congrats and well done!

I reckon you may get quite a few questions about the DIY stuff you did, especially considering the price!

looks like it's time for me to get some LEDs ordered again.

Cheers
Jacob

Arcade King
12th November 2008, 08:52 PM
906 flashers going off, **** they look amazing. Bought these from RTBB

YouTube - Funhouse LED Flashers

Johns-Arcade
12th November 2008, 08:54 PM
You have done a fantastic job on this Trav!

Once it's all finished I'll have to head up to Qld for a game :)

Cheers!

Johns-Arcade.

Arcade King
14th November 2008, 08:20 AM
Got to play my first game last night :D
Had some trouble with the new ramps, being so thick the scres at the entrance wern't long enough so I had to buy longer screws. Problem I had was the head of the screws were bigger so I had to counter sink the ramp holes so the screws would sit flush.

Heres what I started with

http://www.members.iinet.net.au/~golga/funhouse/DSC00407.jpg

heres what I got now :D

http://www.members.iinet.net.au/~golga/funhouse/IMG_1519.jpg

http://www.members.iinet.net.au/~golga/funhouse/IMG_1520.jpg

http://www.members.iinet.net.au/~golga/funhouse/IMG_1521.jpg

http://www.members.iinet.net.au/~golga/funhouse/IMG_1523.jpg

http://www.members.iinet.net.au/~golga/funhouse/IMG_1524.jpg

Still got more to do.

Put the headbox light insert back in.
Touch up the cab art.
While I was playing that ball locking thing came lose :x

Have to say I'm stoked and this one is a keeper.

spacies
14th November 2008, 08:32 AM
****ing beautiful mate!
Fantastic job and I too look forward to a bash someday.

Well done!!!

DKong
14th November 2008, 08:40 AM
Wow that Pops! Very impressive Trav:cool:

felixthadog
14th November 2008, 09:05 AM
Wow, that is a museum piece! :023:

I would be too scared to play it :o

Matthew

LOTR4U
14th November 2008, 09:07 AM
sWEEEEET!

I will give you 2k for it and take it off your hands. :lol

WOW, can't wait to beat the shit out of it when I come up ;) booyeah!

AskJacob
14th November 2008, 09:31 AM
"better than NIB" in so many ways.

Nice job!

Foot
14th November 2008, 10:06 AM
Holy Shit!, that looks great!

Strangeways
14th November 2008, 11:19 AM
Showroom Condition !

Well Done - great attention to detail..:041:

hamish_nz
14th November 2008, 11:47 AM
WOW very nice work :cool:

acejas
14th November 2008, 12:10 PM
bloody awesome mate!!!

Mickey Juice
14th November 2008, 01:01 PM
Would u replace the PF if repro's ever came out?

Arcade King
14th November 2008, 01:48 PM
never, spent countless hours working on this one would defeat the purpose really :)

I had to draw the line somewhere, Repo playfields are far too expensive and I I'm more than happy with mine.

Only other thing I missed was the border around some of the inserts, eventually I'll just use a permanent marker to fix it and just re wax but for now I think I'll just enjoy the game for a bit :)

What about yourself?

Mickey Juice
14th November 2008, 02:26 PM
never, spent countless hours working on this one would defeat the purpose really :)

I had to draw the line somewhere, Repo playfields are far too expensive and I I'm more than happy with mine.

Only other thing I missed was the border around some of the inserts, eventually I'll just use a permanent marker to fix it and just re wax but for now I think I'll just enjoy the game for a bit :)

What about yourself?

When I was halfway through painting I would have said yes :lol
But I'm happy with how it is. I wouldn't buy one atm, as you said they're way too $$.

But I know Wayne has all the vector artwork and was testing prints... so maybe later down the track If they ever become available I might grab one. Even just to sell with the machine if I never used it.

BTW I hate the top of the PF under all those ramps ie trying to get to it, to clean

Brad
14th November 2008, 02:41 PM
Talk about attention to detail :o Well done Trav, it looks awesome!

Brad

Arcade King
14th November 2008, 03:44 PM
I bought myself a air compressor yesterday and an air brush so next project I will dabble with that.

I guess my feeling is if I bought a new playfield then I'd never learn anything. I really wanted to have a go at PF restoration and with the LED mod I think I've really made this Funhouse my own.

Shock_And_Awe
14th November 2008, 03:55 PM
Man this is what this hobby is all about!! Another pin brought back from the dead!! Great work Trav :)

WOKA
14th November 2008, 05:00 PM
That looks stunning - great effort AK.. Might see yah tomorrow sometime.., ;)

Arcade King
14th November 2008, 05:26 PM
Always welcome mate :)

LOTR4U
14th November 2008, 06:27 PM
Was replacing the inserts hard? :unsure

Gav
15th November 2008, 09:42 PM
Absolutely Beautiful. :)Looks better than new outta the box. A credit to you. Well done:023:

Savage
15th November 2008, 09:51 PM
Looks better than I expected...
That is one very colourful pinny!....

How's the clear coat stacking up...

Arcade King
16th November 2008, 09:54 AM
Was replacing the inserts hard? :unsure

Its not something I'd like to do again if I can avoid it but if you must you have to use a heat gun underneath the insert to loosen up the glue. Next you have to get a piece of wood or a socket roughly the same size as your insert to help avoid cracking or stress fractures as you tap it out again from the underside, not an easy task. I have a few stress marks in my arrow inserts even though I was being careful.
Once the insert is out I cleaned up any left over glue put the insert in back in and levelled it then I use regular super glue and go around the underside of the insert (not the top of the PF) where the wood meets the plastic. Some people use superglue gel but I didnt like it. With regular superglue it soaks into the cracks and you get a great bond between plastic and wood plus you can go nuts with the stuff it wont effect the plastic at all.

I originally tried a different method on my Black Rose where I applied superglue Gel around the hole where the insert sits then pushed the insert in, Problem was you only have a very small amount of time before the glue sets so its a race against the clock to get it right. Bad method one which ill never do again.

Another thing you can do if your insert is just raised or what not is just heat underneath then push down with your fingers on the top to relevel after which you must reglue.

If you want to avoid the problems all together as I've stated in another thread

1. if your restoring a pin and its a keeper REGLUE ALL INSERTS after reseating.
2. use LED's under all feature lamps. The difference here is amazing, normally when you have a machine on for a good while if you open the coin door you can feel the heat inside, with LED's in my funhouse its nice and cool :) BTW I use regular lamps in my GI
Heat is the problem here so theoretically if you eliminate the heat problem you eliminate the inserts moving.
3. if you use regular bulbs make sure to check them regularly. For example a good test is to put your fingers on them. if they feel too hot to touch REPLACE THEM! they should only feel warm, If the bulb looks mirrored or burnt replace them right away.
Yesterday In my Funhouse backbox a lot of 555 bulbs visually looked ok but were VERY hot to touch so I ended up replacing the lot, I have no idea how old these things were anyway.


Looks better than I expected...
That is one very colourful pinny!....

How's the clear coat stacking up...

yeah seems to be holding up well, no problems so far :)

teenz
21st August 2009, 01:35 PM
My funhouse at home currently has a broken flipper at the moment (when you hold the button the flipper freaks out) and since I've purchased it I've always wanted to fix it up as it isn't in the best condition.
And I have always love drooling over this thread and the pretty funhouse that has been all fixed up! and was wondering if there is anyone in Sydney that would restore my funhouse to this extent?
If anyone could point me in a direction of anyone that does good quality restores :D

humpalot
21st August 2009, 01:58 PM
The majority of people that do restro's do it for themselves. The reason for this is that it simply costs far too much money to pay someone to do it and we get a kick out of doing it.

Lets keep it simple and say 100+ hours for a restro and a very low $30 per hour labour, that's $3000.00 plus the cost of parts, materials and the machine itself.

On the other hand if you want to see it restored you could always sell it to me :lol:lol

teenz
21st August 2009, 06:30 PM
:P haha alright then was just curious thanks for the response :)

LOTR4U
21st August 2009, 07:21 PM
My funhouse at home currently has a broken flipper at the moment (when you hold the button the flipper freaks out) and since I've purchased it I've always wanted to fix it up as it isn't in the best condition.
And I have always love drooling over this thread and the pretty funhouse that has been all fixed up! and was wondering if there is anyone in Sydney that would restore my funhouse to this extent?
If anyone could point me in a direction of anyone that does good quality restores :D

How much money you got? :unsure would depend on your budget.

spriggy
7th September 2009, 09:59 PM
God damn that looks nice :o
Speechless :o