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Strangeways
27th June 2008, 10:29 PM
A Classic Bally restored for MarkC's personal collection !

Background

Whilst a couple of us AA pinheads were assisting the unloading of the EM container at Childs a few months back, we were astonished to see a Bally Rolling Stones body half way through. As we dug deeper into the container, we found the head right up the back. While removing the head, I nearly broke the Backglass by accident, thankfully, my hand was in the way of some nasty Backglass breakage. After removing the machine and having a look over it - the machine was average - at best...But the backglass was a nice.....

Obviously, I love Ballys of this era, so I took a liking to it immediately and I wanted to check it out. It had heaps of problems that needed attention. Mark had plans to
keep the game for his own collection, so I though I'd ask if I could work on it.

I figured that Mark had done me so many favors locating a Medusa, CV and a really nice JP - that I oferred to restore the game for his own personal collection..In fact, I insisted...After all - it was going into his personal collection, and I saw the game restoration as a challenge.

Condition

Backglass - 9/10 - Really nice. No fade, no flaking. Just a couple of minor scratches.

Cabinet - 7/10 - Faded, but structurally ok. No repairs required. Repaint is a possibility in the future

Playfield - 7/10 - Day 1 Mylar on the bulk of the playfield. Not on the top ball arch and the area under the flippers.

Electronics - 6/10 - Some real ugly "route" repairs done by a bushman mechanic....

Objective

To restore the game - not recondition. The cabinet will remain unpainted, the electronics will be rebuilt and the playfield will be restored using some interesting techniques. I've never used a airbrush, and I didn't for this playfield. Read on to see what I mean !

Starting point

So here is what the game looks like, an hour after being removed from the container. I was sprung admiring this game, and I just had to assemble it to see what it looked like. I was a Rolling Stones fan, so it was pretty cool to see the game up close.


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%202026.jpg


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%202027.jpg


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%202028.jpg


The playfield was filthy and the non mylared section had a fair bit of wear. Had it not been for the mylar, this playfield would have been "shot". Bumper caps were yellowed and burnt, targets worn - usual problems.. But look closely under the flippers.. What the hell is that ?

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20135.jpg


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20129.jpg


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20148.jpg


Now this picture takes the cake for the biggest butcher job on a power supply.. This was just shite..BRs just floating in the air, wires soldered directly to the connector pins, wires joined to other wires with gaffer tape...sigh...

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20133.jpg

Under the bonnet - Filthy.. every moving part was seized from lubrication gone mad. Ever screw was glued to its bracket or to the base. Dirt was forming around the dirt that was stuck to the dried grease...

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20153.jpg


First step is to take HEAPS of photos, and strip the playfield..

LOTR4U
27th June 2008, 10:32 PM
Man that machines got more hax then a non steam CSS server :D

Need the progress pics.

jyebow
27th June 2008, 10:49 PM
Hey Nino,
What is that blue stuff under the flippers??
How 'bout the bridge rectifers & the gaffa tape.
It would be great to see it restored.
Don't see too many of those.
Last time I saw one it was getting trashed by those F*@wits !!
( everyones probably saw the vid )
all the best.
keep us posted.
Steve.

Wotto
27th June 2008, 10:54 PM
Hey Nino,
What is that blue stuff under the flippers??


I believe that would be some type of tape, you know a typical proffessional repair job :rolleyes


Oh , and Nino- you need to cut your thumbnail a little closer ......to your elbow !!!!:lol

markc
27th June 2008, 10:58 PM
I am sure Nino and the boys that helped restore this beauty back to life have finished pictures, if not I have some
I wont put them up as its Nino's restoration thread

i still cant beleive its the same pinball machine. well over 200PLUS hours has been spent on this one. My wife picked it and loves it. Such a masterful job has been done. Nino well what can i say your a ****ing mad man with what you did. and the silent ones thanks for the hours you did one this.

its sit now next to my MM and Shrek , but it is awaiting its new buddy Rocky to come home and sit with it.

mark

Strangeways
27th June 2008, 11:23 PM
I'll draw the thread out a bit... I have most of it documented. Just in case there are questions, comments etc...

Fish Tales
28th June 2008, 07:50 AM
Just one question...pics!

MrMaloo
28th June 2008, 12:20 PM
Just got one thing to say .....


:041: :041: :041: :041: :041:


DAMN NICE JOB NINO (AND OTHERS )

AskJacob
28th June 2008, 01:13 PM
All I can say is thanks for coming back here Nino...

So much great stuff already!

I love these posts... Makes me want to grab a project machine.... even though I have 3 already:D

Look forward to seeing more on this one.

Surely if you were to put this on location all it needed was more tape to stop the bridges rattling and an under playfield squirt of WD40 and she'll be right for another 6 months:p

Strangeways
28th June 2008, 06:10 PM
All I can say is thanks for coming back here Nino...

So much great stuff already!

I love these posts... Makes me want to grab a project machine.... even though I have 3 already:D

Look forward to seeing more on this one.

Surely if you were to put this on location all it needed was more tape to stop the bridges rattling and an under playfield squirt of WD40 and she'll be right for another 6 months:p

Thanks for the kind words - I have another Restore that is current that I will put up as well, and the list of machines "in the works" just keeps getting longer - just the way I like it...

One observation of mine since I "returned" - There are a lot of very savvy restorers (including yourself ;)) that have come along, with really impress me and inspire me to post more restores..

WD40 ? Standard kit in the "old days" :lol

ktm450
29th June 2008, 12:50 AM
Sweet project, I like the blue tape touchup, nice!:lol

Strangeways
29th June 2008, 06:12 PM
Body

The body is a straight forward procedure covered in my Strikes and Spares restore. Yep - I forgot to take pictures of the process on the Rolling Stones.. The body is stripped completely, washed and cleaned, the metal parts are removed and polished in the tumbler. Legs are cleaned and new legbolts and leg levellers are installed. A new power cord is installed. The door is stripped, washed - all parts in the tumbler. The door skin, side rails and lock down bar are regrained simply by using 180 grit wet/dry followed by 320 wet/dry with windex. The ball plunger is polished on the buffer wheel, and new springs installed.

Electronics

Solenoid Driver has the ground mods done and a new 5V Cap is installed. check the display voltage is regulated to 174VDC. MPU has its battery removed - luckily - not much corrosion. But the area was cleaned and a new battery installed with a diode to prevent recharging. Lamp Matrix needed a couple of SCRs replaced - no big deal. The Rectifier board was a disaster - see the picture above.. The fuse holder, connectors, bridge rectifiers and ceramic resistors are replaced - the whole board gets an upgrade ! The connectors and pins are replaced on the harness itself as well. When completed, it looks like this ;


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20098.jpg


Displays are all checked and connectors re flowed. All the digit resistors are replaced with 100K OHM 1/2 Watt resistors.

The Blue Mess

Whats underneath the gaffer tape ??? Well after a few Beams, I decided it had to come off...Pictures describe it better than I ever could !!!

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20160.jpg

Here's an ever "better" picture...

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20164smaller.jpg


:cry:cry:cry


There were two options - Airbrush or Decal... I can't airbrush for crap, so its going to be a decal. first thing to do is trace the area up and then think about how to fix this problem - biggest challenge I've had so far !

Here's the trace...

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20176smaller.jpg


Hmmm.... What to do next ??

:unsure

AskJacob
29th June 2008, 11:31 PM
Wow. All I can say is I'm glad for your sake that none of the wallpaper pattern above your stencil was missing:119: <- how you'd end up trying to recreate that!

Looking forward to this!

stuba
1st July 2008, 10:47 AM
cmon cmon!

Strangeways
1st July 2008, 03:05 PM
The "wallpaper" effect was not part of the area to be touched up - thankfully :D

Up until this point, I had never had to deal with this kind of wear, but I guess it makes sense. There are plenty of examples where a playfield is completely worn to wood in the "high traffic" areas. Well I think this game was one of them. Thankfully, this game had "Day One" mylar (installed on the production line), so 80% of this playfield was protected and the artwork is intact. So you should be able to work out the areas where the mylar is. It ends under the "1000 Bonus" light - in the shape of a "V". So there are three different levels to contend with.

The highest section was above and beyond the "V" in the section between the flippers. This is where the Mylar is applied from factory. Then there is the area below that, which is simply the bare playfield with its protective clearcoat (factory). Finally, there is a section "worn to wood" - and within that section, there is some sort of reaction with either water damage or the adhesive backing from the gaffer tape than was applied.

So there was some method in my mad idea to apply a decal here. The first thing to do was remove the existing wear by creating a "flat" area. The areas left with artwork just peeled off - it was unstable anyway. So I used a chisel and just lifted it gently, but creating a border beforehand. This would give me a stable and flat area to work with.

The bare playfield is porous, so no decal will adhere to it for a long period of time - something I learnt from another pinhead ;). So I had to seal the area with some sort of lacquer or sealant. I found a can of Cabots clear lacquer finish at bunnings and started to experiment on pieces of wood. The aim was to have a level area that would be a great preparation to lay down the decal.

Decal

The trace was scanned into photoshop and with a bit of time and luck, some "mock ups" were printed out - using no colors - no color matching yet. Just the size and alignment were important here. Here is an early sample of the decal ;


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20198.jpg


Bit of fiddling around, but the idea is starting to look like it might work. So once the size and aspect is right, we add color ;


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20184.jpg


Were is the writing ? There is no such thing as a "Rollings Stones" font, so it had to be created. Few hours later and viola ;


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20238.jpg


The color matching was a headache... All the colors were close except the light blue. That was near impossible to match... So the art is printed on vinyl adhesive paper and left aside for a while...


So now the area that the decal will be applied needs to be sealed and raised to the playfield "artwork + clearcoat" level. By doing that, the decal can be added to that level and BE level with the MYLAR... so that the additional mylar I will apply to protect the decal, and to keep the bottom of the "V" flat will be one level.. Hard to follow :unsure

The aim is to have the entire area LEVEL, by raising the non mylared areas, adding the decal and then applying the new mylar..

So first the area is prepared with a light sand and then the surrounding area masked and covered.


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20080.jpg


Thin coat first
Wait 4 hours
Thick coat
Wait 4 hours
Sand with 800 grit
Thick coat
Wait 4 hours
Sand with 800 grit
Thin Coat
Wait 4 hours
Sand with 800 grit

Test for level with the mylar - and it is JUST under.. Perfect height. Now with the application of the decal, it will be level..

Remove the paper and test the section with a "mock run" of the decal installation.. The decal has to be trimmed to "butt up" against the mylar "V"..Note the "V" is "dead centre" between the flippers, but the artwork is not. So the Decal has to be trimmed ! I did this by tracing the "V" area on the playfield and transposing that onto the decal in "reverse" - ie the underside. I trimmed the decal so that it "meets" the "V" and it does !

Further trimming is required, with a straight metal ruler and an exacto knife.


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20087.jpg


After COUNTLESS hours working on this decal, I had to remove the backing and line up the four corners - with those lines in the artwork - and I had once attempt. It took 30 minutes of procrastinating, and it was all over in 15 seconds.. It was either going to fit, or I was going back to the printer !!!

Here it is - installed ;

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20089.jpg

Keep in mind that with the flash on the camera going off - if "changes" the color slightly - so it might not look that great, but it looks better in real life !

This was the most time consuming and difficult process of the restore.

Strangeways
2nd July 2008, 10:27 AM
The RHS return lane was worn to wood where the "But I like it" writing is.

"But I Li" is under the factory mylar, the "ke it" is worn to wood. In fact, the ball could almost just sit at the crease of the mylar if the ball was trapped by the RHS flipper. I did not employ the same technique as the main worn area, so I sanded the area flat and then applied another decal running from the "ke it" all the way up to the entrance to the return lane. It was trimmed to "buff up" against the factory mylar, and it took 5 minutes to trim and install. I did a test "run" with some of the hardware installed ;


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20094.jpg


Heres a later picture with the full sheet of mylar installed over the two decals. The hardware is installed and this will be the final result;


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/picture%20359.jpg


Under the playfield

Every mechanism was removed cleaned and soaked in alcohol to remove the years of crap that had built up, and to completely remove the lubricants that were smeared on the plungers.. YUK... So all mechanisms rebuilt and re installed.

New globes installed.

All the metal parts were tumbled - including the all the plungers. All coils sleeves replaced, new switch caps installed where required.

The flipper coils were not original, so they were replaced. New full flipper kits were installed ;

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/picture%20357.jpg


The game was fired up for the first time and it worked !

AskJacob
2nd July 2008, 11:03 AM
Very tidy flipper rebuild there. They look really neat.

Good to see it went to a good home too!

Love the updates!

Cheers
Jacob

Strangeways
2nd July 2008, 11:50 AM
Very tidy flipper rebuild there. They look really neat.

Good to see it went to a good home too!

Love the updates!

Cheers
Jacob

Thanks Mate - I sometimes get accused of "being too anal" - but that's the way I do things. The assembly plate is polished, and here's a neat tip ;

Note the coil stop screw holes.. They look really bad, one is "elongated". Oversized screws and even wood svrews are common to hold things together.. All you need to do is swap the LHS plate with the RHS plate and you can use the new mounting holes on the plate. Now you can use the new screws supplied with the kit.

illawarra_steelers
2nd July 2008, 12:12 PM
Nino,

Mate you have outdone your high standards yet again. To make those decals like you did is amazing!

I thought Gavin would of chimed into this thred by now, sure it is only a matter of time.

Nice work my friend and once again we all find your work inspirational!

Cheers

Tony

stuba
2nd July 2008, 12:22 PM
Nino,

Mate you have outdone your high standards yet again. To make those decals like you did is amazing!

I thought Gavin would of chimed into this thred by now, sure it is only a matter of time.

Nice work my friend and once again we all find your work inspirational!

Cheers

Tony

+1 Thanks Nino. Love your threads on this sort of stuff. So many great solutions/ideas. :)

The Pinny Parlour
2nd July 2008, 12:35 PM
Nice work indeed. I think I need to soak myself in Alcohol too.

Strangeways
2nd July 2008, 01:29 PM
Nino,

Mate you have outdone your high standards yet again. To make those decals like you did is amazing!

I thought Gavin would of chimed into this thred by now, sure it is only a matter of time.

Nice work my friend and once again we all find your work inspirational!

Cheers

Tony

Great point - where is Gavin :unsure :lol

I'm looking at picking up some airbrushing skills and hopefully some clearcoating skills as well. I think Gavin is qualified well enough in these areas, and has been offering me advice along the way. Given the hours that went into the decal - especially the color matching, I'd rather invest that time into airbrushing. The only issue there is that to clearcoat - I might have had to take the risk of removing the factory mylar.. A risk I was not prepared to take.

Railways
2nd July 2008, 06:45 PM
Aaaah yes my old nemesis mylar is mentioned again. Very tidy so far Nino and a vast improvement on what a lot of people would have just:rolleyes.

retropin
2nd July 2008, 08:16 PM
I did post earlier but got logged off and the post got lost in the ether.

The decal is amazing - Im sure the colour matching was a real pain, id love to know how many print offs it took before it was OK.

I find computer work irritating at the best of times ( especially if i get logged off!) and so prefer to paint/spray etc. Ive been debating it in my head - time spent making decal as opposed to time spent airbrushing over templates.

If using airbrush and soft enamels then it would have been 24hrs between colours - making the job last several days.

My reason for not taking this approach would have been the issue with getting the levels right, but Nino - youve achieved this - i find this more impressive than the decal itself, its a most difficult thing to do!

As for clear coating over Mylar - yes it can be done but im not sure how it would last over time. Clear coat is used to protect digital prints also, so can be applied to vinyl, and so im assuming Mylar too. 10 years down the track though - will it still be holding? I dont see why not, so long as the Mylar itself is still holding.
I have never shyed from removing Mylar as i know i can make any repairs invisible, so ive never covered it with clear coat ( or anything else).

Personally i hate the stuff ( Mylar) and if i did coat it, in my mind years later id still be asking - "did it hold??"


But great decal work Nino - looks great!

stuba
3rd July 2008, 08:04 AM
There are quite a few threads/stories from the US where they have clear coated over mylar and then claimed it has ruined the playfield. Seems to happen quite a bit with overlays. On reading the instructions for clear coating over an overlay they suggest a very fine sand before adding the clear as this helps adherence. I have also seen it said that a clear coat takes 90 days to cure and not to add any posts/parts until its cured. Seems risky but for every negative there seems to be a positive story as well. After the reading I've done I don't think I'd risk it..

Strangeways
3rd July 2008, 08:32 AM
Mylar can shrink over time. Certainly the edges of the mylar can have some evidence of shrinking. I don't think a clearcoat over mylar is a good idea.

retropin
3rd July 2008, 09:29 AM
Mylar can shrink over time.

.....- says it all! So no go on the Mylar coating.

Stuba - depends on what clear coat you are using, some take 90 days, mine takes 7 to fully cure. But in all honesty i leave for about 3 - seems to make no difference. Most quotes on time are made for a disclaimer by the manufacturer and so they give the very outside time for a cure.
As with all paint applications - clear coat is no different and so a light sand is necessary for anything as surface prep

ktm450
3rd July 2008, 10:46 AM
Looks fantastic! Is the vinyl adhesive paper readily available or special stuff for the job?

Strangeways
3rd July 2008, 11:00 AM
Looks fantastic! Is the vinyl adhesive paper readily available or special stuff for the job?

It is available from some signwriter shops or specialty print shops. The last lot I bought was from Snap Printing.

Strangeways
3rd July 2008, 02:19 PM
Finished Pictures

After installing all the hardware, there was not much else that needed to be done. The game fired up and I played it for a week or so until Mark picked it up. There were no issues that developed, so I took some more pictures and here they are;


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20107.jpg


I added a front door lock and it was basically finished.

Playfield

Target bank was rebuilt with new targets. New bumper bodies, skirts, caps, rubbers, globes, lane guides, flipper bats, post caps. Plastics came up well ;


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20115.jpg


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/picture%20360.jpg


Here's a shot of the playfield, with the decal partially obscured.


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/rollingstones/Picture%20118.jpg


Part of the reason why I wanted to do this game was to prove that no matter how difficult a project, there is always a method in fixing something you have not experienced before. The Decal procedure took more time than the rest of the pinball, but I "had a go" and I'm happy that the machine is presentable. It's better than blue gaffer tape or bare wood.

Special thanks to a couple of guys who gave me advice with the decal :)

All the parts were sourced locally from Greg or Mark, except the flipper rebuild kits (Pinball Resource) and the Electronic components (GPE)

Now on to the next project which will be a System80 ;)

Gav
3rd July 2008, 03:06 PM
Fantastic ,I think Mark owes you a beer:038::sm1::sm1::sm1:

AskJacob
3rd July 2008, 03:12 PM
Very Nice! Did that machine come out and play at the meet at Markc's? or is it in-home?

Slightly OT:

I have been wondering for a while - what is the purpose of the whitish translucent insert next to the bally logo on the apron?

Always wondered...

markc
3rd July 2008, 03:47 PM
Very Nice! Did that machine come out and play at the meet at Markc's? or is it in-home?

Slightly OT:

I have been wondering for a while - what is the purpose of the whitish translucent insert next to the bally logo on the apron?

Always wondered...


its at my house

Strangeways
3rd July 2008, 03:50 PM
Very Nice! Did that machine come out and play at the meet at Markc's? or is it in-home?

Slightly OT:

I have been wondering for a while - what is the purpose of the whitish translucent insert next to the bally logo on the apron?

Always wondered...

No mate.. Mark kept is for Sue, his wife. I wanted her to play the first few games. In fact, I insisted Mark pick up the game from my place and play it..

Every machine has "its story" and this one has a beauty.. When I started it, the inside was so filthy, there was an icy pole stick stuck to the bottom of the door entry. I prized it off gently and it has some european writing on it - some sort of promotion.. So I put it aside, only to lose it..:x I wanted to get the stick framed and present it to Mark... sort of a "memento" of the Machine..Well I found it the night Mark picked it up.. :)

The light on the apron is to indicate to the player(s) that there is at least one credit on the game.

ktm450
3rd July 2008, 04:54 PM
Fantastic result given the original condition! Nice work:cool:

Arcade King
3rd July 2008, 09:34 PM
Well done Nino, I wish i had your patience.

GORGAR 1
5th July 2008, 10:30 PM
Just Awesome Nino-could read your resto's all day..Your a very talented person.

Peter