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Arcade King
22nd June 2008, 09:25 PM
Well big thanks to Tony at The Pinball Shed for giving me some great deals on these :) Tony has always looked after me in regards to Pinball.
Big thanks to Richard too ;)
Sorry about the quality of the pics, had to use my mobile to take them.
PS: STTNG on hold. :(

First 2 pics are of the pins on their arses.

Black Rose (sorry everybody who warned me not to get one, I just couldn't resist)
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/DSC00404.jpg

FunHouse
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/DSC00405.jpg

Funhouse I will take on second. The playfield has no wear and I'd like to remove the mylar and get her 2 pac clear coated. I wont go to much into it because I wan't to get the easy one(Black Rose) done first although any suggestions on cleaning the non mylar'd areas of the PF without damaging the paint would be appreciated.
Overall I'm very happy with this and can't wait to start on it! She fired right up and the alpha numeric displays look like new.
BONUS! had minty NOS slingshot plastics inside the machine in a envelope!
Few problems I noticed right away.
1. Trap Door hinge broken: Took me 5 mins to fix, just put another bit of wire through the hinge ;)
2. Rudy's eyes won't close. Very common problem, I will share a simple but permanent fix that doesn't involve buying new parts.
3. Mylar is lifting, will need to be removed. On diamond coated PF's the heat gun always does the job but would there be a safer method for this PF? I've read freeze spray is good?
This is pretty much it so far, I'll also upgrade the rom versions.
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/DSC00407.jpg

I forgot to take a pic of black rose before I pulled the cannon out to clean it.
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/DSC00410.jpg

Has the usual wear around the cannon although Burra managed to get one without it! should be a easy touch up..just not for me lol
Rest of the PF is in good nic, no other wear or broken plastics really well made game. BTW my first BALLY machine.
Does anybody have a spare Bally logo that sits in between the speakers? mine is busted :(
The cannon was absolutely filthy! I didn't even know it was clear! Heres some pics of the metal plate under the cannon to give you an idea.
Before
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/DSC00416.jpg
After
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/DSC00417.jpg
A lot of the mylar has bubbled on this machine so first step will be rip all the ramps off and remove the mylar. Because this playfield is Diamond Plated( clear coated) mylar removal should be easy.
Heres a pic of some of the bubbles, its funny but its hard to see in the picture, you'll just have to take my word there's that most of the PF's mylar has lifted.
the S-I-N shows up like dogs nuts and mostly due to the insert has lifted on each letter.
I'm going to leave the mylar above the flippers and pop bumpers alone, it hasnt bubbled and is a must because the long wireform that returns the ball from the upper cannon dumps the ball in front of the flipper, the drop is quite large and could damage the PF without mylar.
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/DSC00418.jpg
With the heat gun slowly lifting it, this piece runs all the way up the PF.
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/DSC00419.jpg
OK done, bit of a clean up with the CP100, I really need to get something that will remove the glue of the mylar without dulling the diamond plate clear coat, which is best, prepsol or shelite?
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/DSC00420.jpg
Quite a few inserts have lifted, probably about 1/3rd
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/DSC00421.jpg
This is where I need advice from the experts, I've read heating them from behind and pushing them through is the method to remove them, i'd like to get advice from you guys on the "best way" and what glue to use to stick them back.
If I push down on some of the inserts I can actually make them wiggle, obviously the clear coat at the factory is applied thin.
Any detailed information will be appreciated.
Trav

AskJacob
22nd June 2008, 09:33 PM
Hey nice a Black Rose!

I have one, and she's in very good nick playfield-wise. Same faded cab.

If you need any detail from around the machine, just ask.

Good luck with it!

Cheers
Jacob

Foot
22nd June 2008, 09:34 PM
****ing well done Trav you big pin whore!

Nice pair to pickup

Arcade King
22nd June 2008, 09:37 PM
Hey nice a Black Rose!

I have one, and she's in very good nick playfield-wise. Same faded cab.

If you need any detail from around the machine, just ask.

Good luck with it!

Cheers
Jacob

The decal on the other side isn't so crash hot, looks like a chunk out of the bottom was ripped off. Can't complain though overall a really good machine. I think from what I've been told the fade in the red is common.
I reckon the art on BR is the second best ive seen next to CV

Fish Tales
22nd June 2008, 09:39 PM
nice! Having owned and sold a BR I am really left missing it. I know people rubbish them, but its a real crowd pleaser and in a collection of a few or more pins you prob wont get sick of it being easy to master. Its charmer of a machine and thats why i like it, BR has soul!

AskJacob
22nd June 2008, 09:40 PM
The decal on the other side isn't so crash hot, looks like a chunk out of the bottom was ripped off. Can't complain though overall a really good machine. I think from what I've been told the fade in the red is common.
I reckon the art on BR is the second best ive seen next to CV

Yeah red goes. Mine has faded more since I had it too... even in a 'controlled' light environment.

Have seen a damn fine restore job with the glass paints though - makes me want to try it one day...

Fish Tales
22nd June 2008, 09:41 PM
The I reckon the art on BR is the second best ive seen next to CV

pisser is that no one is making side art for them, infact no one is making plastics either

Arcade King
22nd June 2008, 09:46 PM
pisser is that no one is making side art for them, infact no one is making plastics either

haha ;) I've seen them on ebay but lets no go there. Luckily the plastics are all in tact except for some warping.
Seems to be a very solid made machine all round, it would have been nice if they extended the mylar to the edge of the cannon hole.

pinsanity
22nd June 2008, 09:46 PM
Yeah red goes. Mine has faded more since I had it too... even in a 'controlled' light environment.

Have seen a damn fine restore job with the glass paints though - makes me want to try it one day...

http://remote.kiwi.gen.nz/PinballPaint/

narf_
22nd June 2008, 09:50 PM
nice

taking a break from arcade for a while trav?

Arcade King
22nd June 2008, 09:50 PM
Seen that before, really amazing job. Unfortunately I have no patience for that sort of fine detail, be cool if it was just a stencil.

AskJacob
22nd June 2008, 09:53 PM
Yep, that's the link :)

As far as plastics, it seems the design of this machine lends well to them not being broken.

The only spot I see commonly busted is just above where the ball ends up in Pirates Cove, it seems the kicker sometimes kicks the ball into the plastic there. Mine is broken there, but hard to see (I think anyway;))

Railways
22nd June 2008, 10:08 PM
Nice pair of pins there Trav (no not your legs). They should keep you going for awhile. Pretty well all of the Bally/williams pins in the early 90's with any form of red/yellow in them have faded even the ones in a basement with a 40w bulb. I currently have an Indy ,FT,Gilligans and all have suffered so has a mates Dr.who. Is this the badge you're after? http://www.marcospecialties.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=31%2D1493 .

Arcade King
22nd June 2008, 10:12 PM
Sure is mate, I'll get Tony to put it on the list of "Things to get" when he does his next order.
SWEET AS!

Strangeways
22nd June 2008, 10:37 PM
Congrats on the new acquisitions, Trav.. :)

Two really cool titles, and yes the art on the BR is awesome. I hope you are taking heaps of pictures before you strip them !

To answer one of your questions - if you are removing the inserts, you may need to look at cutting around the margin of the insert, so when you push them out, it does not ship or disturb the surrounding clearcoat and artwork. This would be a delicate procedure that you might like to trial on an insert that is more hidden that in the "front centre" of the playfield. I have not really done one before - I just pushed them up from behind and then glued - ie - not fully removed them.. Hopefully, someone here has tried it before and can offer better advice..

I look forward to the restore progress !

Arcade King
23rd June 2008, 06:28 AM
Thanks Nino.

I don't think ill need to cut around most of these because they have lifted well above the PF. What sort of glue do you use? anything specific? Some of them I could push down and glue from the other side but others like the letters need to be removed so i can clean the edges.

Burra749
23rd June 2008, 06:47 AM
Cool stuff, Im glad you started with BR.
I,ll have heaps of questions answered for when I start mine.;)

Strangeways
23rd June 2008, 08:31 AM
Thanks Nino.

I don't think ill need to cut around most of these because they have lifted well above the PF. What sort of glue do you use? anything specific? Some of them I could push down and glue from the other side but others like the letters need to be removed so i can clean the edges.

I use araldite, but I know other s have used Super Glue Gel - in case they need to make adjustments before it sets. I might go back to super glue, as the last time I used araldite, the glue expanded and lifted the insert slightly.

spacies
23rd June 2008, 08:48 AM
Yeah Araldite is a 2 pot system. No good for this application as chemical reaction occurs after applying it.

stuba
23rd June 2008, 02:49 PM
do i hear the snap of the cookie cutter? :p

what's next - you gonna join wickety wak? ;)

Arcade King
23rd June 2008, 06:05 PM
I use araldite, but I know other s have used Super Glue Gel - in case they need to make adjustments before it sets. I might go back to super glue, as the last time I used araldite, the glue expanded and lifted the insert slightly.

Thanks for the info Nino. What's the best way to go about getting them out? just heat from the bottom for a little bit then push?


do i hear the snap of the cookie cutter? :p

what's next - you gonna join wickety wak? ;)

Hey a little birdy told me your were heading down for a tyre kick :p

Strangeways
23rd June 2008, 06:24 PM
Thanks for the info Nino. What's the best way to go about getting them out? just heat from the bottom for a little bit then push?



Hey a little birdy told me your were heading down for a tyre kick :p

Yes mate - go from the bottom with a hair dryer set to high.. Then remove the applied heat and push the insert out GENTLY with either a small block of wood or for rounded inserts, I find sockets to be appropriate. Make sure you do not use too much heat, and the insert could melt slightly and become out of shape.

stuba
23rd June 2008, 07:02 PM
Hey a little birdy told me your were heading down for a tyre kick :p

Yep. Haven't been able to get there yet tho. Have done a deal with Silverball for his Corvette. Tony had one but was missing a hard to find bit. I'm hoping Tony has saved a deal for me on something else cause i'm broke now..:) I was interested in his FH but a bunch of arcade geeks has been scoring all his good pins. Hopefully he's got another one. :) or two..

WOKA
23rd June 2008, 07:21 PM
There is a very clean NBA Fast Break there.. Had a few games, was very tempted but ultimately wasn't sold.

BACK ON TRACK

LOTR4U
23rd June 2008, 07:22 PM
Trav is starting to amount a great collection of cookie cutters :lol

Strangeways
23rd June 2008, 07:50 PM
Its great to see so many Collectors having a go at Pins as well as vids. I don't recall the interest in restoration work (all amusement types) as healthy as it has been in the last 2 years. I used to think that all the Hobbyists were mainly in the USA, but I'm really glad I'm wrong there !!

Arcade King
23rd June 2008, 08:02 PM
Its great to see so many Collectors having a go at Pins as well as vids. I don't recall the interest in restoration work (all amusement types) as healthy as it has been in the last 2 years. I used to think that all the Hobbyists were mainly in the USA, but I'm really glad I'm wrong there !!

mate i wont buy a pin unless it needs some TLC and elbow grease. Fixing em up is half the fun, the other half is playing :)

stuba
23rd June 2008, 08:04 PM
Its great to see so many Collectors having a go at Pins as well as vids. I don't recall the interest in restoration work (all amusement types) as healthy as it has been in the last 2 years. I used to think that all the Hobbyists were mainly in the USA, but I'm really glad I'm wrong there !!

we crap on the seppos nino, the way they are headed they will be a t(h)ird world country shortly. williams manufacturing has moved here from chicago. the really great thing about this is pinball screws will soon all be metric. ROFL

Strangeways
23rd June 2008, 08:12 PM
mate i wont buy a pin unless it needs some TLC and elbow grease. Fixing em up is half the fun, the other half is playing :)

That's what I'm talking about....

:hijack:

I'll digress for a moment - If it was not for people like us, these pins would be sitting in storage in Europe and here in Oz.. The demand is there because of the enthusiasts that are getting involved in the hobby, that's one less pin stuck in a warehouse and one more restored in someones collection..

:)


we crap on the seppos nino, the way they are headed they will be a t(h)ird world country shortly. williams manufacturing has moved here from chicago. the really great thing about this is pinball screws will soon all be metric. ROFL

The standard is 100% of where it was 5 years ago...no doubt !

stuba
23rd June 2008, 08:27 PM
Trav is starting to amount a great collection of cookie cutters :lol

I'll get worried when he starts chroming the coin doors..:)

silverball
23rd June 2008, 08:41 PM
Whats the going rate for a decent blackrose, passed up on one with excellent colour cab and no playfield wear......i thought price was good too..............need more room.

Fish Tales
23rd June 2008, 08:43 PM
2-2.3k I guess

silverball
23rd June 2008, 08:47 PM
Should have got it then. Still available though.

stuba
23rd June 2008, 08:56 PM
Should have got it then. Still available though.

It's a great pin. One of those that's under-priced relative to the theme and game play. Under 2K is a steal if you can swing it.

silverball
23rd June 2008, 09:01 PM
Was a few hundred less last time I asked.

Fish Tales
23rd June 2008, 09:03 PM
if you can get a BR with minimal cab fade and a steal of a price.......grab it or pass the info on!
:)

AskJacob
23rd June 2008, 09:03 PM
Hey AK don't forget to get the L4 CPU roms if it doesn't already have it.

Helps the Davey Jones Locker ramp lock open a crapload more reliably, and stops it flinging balls on it into the playfield glass:o

Cheers

silverball
23rd June 2008, 09:39 PM
if you can get a BR with minimal cab fade and a steal of a price.......grab it or pass the info on!
:)

Good advice, just did that and machine has sold.

LOTR4U
23rd June 2008, 09:55 PM
I'll get worried when he starts chroming the coin doors..:)

.... or coin box lids :lol

Arcade King
24th June 2008, 06:24 AM
:hijack:

Mickey Juice
24th June 2008, 03:13 PM
Fixing em up is half the fun, the other half is playing :)[/quote]

Mines probably more 70/30 in favour of restoration.


I wont go to much into it because I wan't to get the easy one(Black Rose) done first although any suggestions on cleaning the non mylar'd areas of the PF without damaging the paint would be appreciated.

You'll probably get differences in paint tone between the mylared areas and the non ie blue. I think it's unavoidable.


1. Trap Door hinge broken: Took me 5 mins to fix, just put another bit of wire through the hinge ;)

I think Wayne was in the process of making these :unsure
I bought a replacement from eBay intl.


3. Mylar is lifting, will need to be removed. On diamond coated PF's the heat gun always does the job but would there be a safer method for this PF? I've read freeze spray is good?

Freeze spray did stuff all on mine. 'DeSolv-It' from Bunnings did a much better job. Just take it slow.

I found taking photo's with the flash off will show up the crappy mylar bubbles better ;)

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/5696/clockxr8.jpg

DKong
24th June 2008, 03:45 PM
I second the Desolv-it (orange stuff) fantastic product

Arcade King
24th June 2008, 05:57 PM
Fixing em up is half the fun, the other half is playing :)

Mines probably more 70/30 in favour of restoration.



You'll probably get differences in paint tone between the mylared areas and the non ie blue. I think it's unavoidable.



I think Wayne was in the process of making these :unsure
I bought a replacement from eBay intl.



Freeze spray did stuff all on mine. 'DeSolv-It' from Bunnings did a much better job. Just take it slow.

I found taking photo's with the flash off will show up the crappy mylar bubbles better ;)

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/5696/clockxr8.jpg

I should start a new thread for funhouse, will move all this into it once i start the restore.
Mate mine is bubbled the same, did you find the small clock inserts were raised on yours? is it meant to be that way because all the other inserts on the play field are perfectly level but the small clock arrow inserts are all equally raised slightly.

Back to Black Rose, can somebody check the upper right flipper for me to see if its spose to be smaller than the bottom 2? I have a plain one on the right, one with a lightning bold on the left and the upper right has a lightning bold but it looks smaller.

waylander
24th June 2008, 06:57 PM
According to the operations manual the flippers are all have the same
part number 20-9250-7 ( black flipper and shaft assembly)

Arcade King
24th June 2008, 06:59 PM
hrm my manual says 20-9250-6 yellow flipper for all 3

waylander
24th June 2008, 07:07 PM
what's the date on your manual, mine is August 1992, Maybe they changed the colours mid production. I have seen photo's of both colors on the net, Black with red flipper rubbers looks O.K.

Arcade King
24th June 2008, 07:28 PM
says August 1992, 16-20013-101.

It currently has white flippers 2 of which have that lightning bolt on it.

waylander
24th June 2008, 07:55 PM
Thats just odd, mine has the same codes on the cover but the flipper colours differ on the parts page. File that one in the trivia box.
So to answer the original question all three flippers are the same size.
Pinball life shows that part number to be a flipper bat with the small "w" logo.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=915&parent=59

Arcade King
24th June 2008, 08:24 PM
Funny, Marcos lists them as plain yellow and so so bay area

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FB-3BY&Category_Code=
http://www.marcospecialties.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=20-9250-6

I think I'll just stick to this, the black bats don't seem real common and bayarea and marcos have no stock, I agree would look good though.

stuba
24th June 2008, 08:52 PM
you going to clear coat it? same deal as the stng?

Arcade King
24th June 2008, 08:54 PM
you going to clear coat it? same deal as the stng?

nah, will clear coat funhouse though, its a keeper. BR I'll probably fix up and play for a few months till it bores me then get something else to fix up.
I'm not going to clear coat play fields unless they really need it anymore, I've had some problems with STTNG that made me think twice about it.
I think if the playfield is in good condition a good regular wax and new balls will make it last for many many years to come.

AskJacob
25th June 2008, 09:14 AM
In the flyer, BR has black flippers. I like the look of them in Black!

I'm ashamed to admit mine has 2 generic white unbranded flippers at the bottom, and a white DE flipper up top:unsure

Will sort them out one day - but am working on the Drac and IJ for now....

Still plays OK, just don't look too close to the upper flipper;)

Fish Tales
25th June 2008, 09:16 AM
now....

Still plays OK, just don't look too close to the upper flipper;)

but that flipper is prob one of the most important things on that game! u gotta look at it often!
lol

Crafty
25th June 2008, 10:52 AM
I'm not going to clear coat play fields unless they really need it anymore, I've had some problems with STTNG that made me think twice about it.


Do share, what problems ???

Mickey Juice
25th June 2008, 12:05 PM
Do share, what problems ???

+1


Mate mine is bubbled the same, did you find the small clock inserts were raised on yours? is it meant to be that way because all the other inserts on the play field are perfectly level but the small clock arrow inserts are all equally raised slightly.

Nope. The center red clock one had sunk slightly and maybe one or two had to be leveled (the 12 o'clock arrow) but I don't think I had to touch the small clock arrow inserts.

Arcade King
25th June 2008, 05:58 PM
Do share, what problems ???

I'll do a write up one the issue is resolved.



Nope. The center red clock one had sunk slightly and maybe one or two had to be leveled (the 12 o'clock arrow) but I don't think I had to touch the small clock arrow inserts.

Ok strange, seem weird how all the other inserts are perfectly level and the small clock arrows are slightly raised.

Strangeways
26th June 2008, 09:44 AM
Early on there was a question regarding post mylar removal, - cleanup of the adhesive residue. Here's my method ;

I use a number of products, depending on the condition of the residue left behind, and I always try it on a test area first. Try "Shellite" - it is the same as Naptha (yanks use it a lot). It stinks - but it will work and not damage playfield paint or insert decals. If the residue is not moving satisfactorily - use "Goof Off" - This stuff will remove ANYTHING. Use sparingly and in a well ventilated area - it gives me head rushes !!!! But is is "last resort" for me - but it will do the job. Never - EVER - spray this stuff directly on a playfield. Both products are available at Bunnings - Goof Off is in a tin container the size of a cigarette packet - with a red "tip" at the end of it. Don't get the spray version. some pinheads use "DeSolvit" and "Goo Gone".. I've only seen Goo Gone in a paint store, and I've never seen Desolvit - But it is at bunnings as well..

I use a desk lamp over the playfield to "highlight" the areas that I'm working on. Its easy to lose track of where you are working on.

Don't laugh - But I once used "Brasso" to remove the residue.. Believe it or not - it DOES work, but no where near as effective as other methods. But it leaves a nice shine !

Mickey Juice
26th June 2008, 11:15 AM
I just use Desolv-it and Shellite for glue residue

IIHO Goof Off is way too harsh (removes paint)

Arcade King
26th June 2008, 08:48 PM
Early on there was a question regarding post mylar removal, - cleanup of the adhesive residue. Here's my method ;

I use a number of products, depending on the condition of the residue left behind, and I always try it on a test area first. Try "Shellite" - it is the same as Naptha (yanks use it a lot). It stinks - but it will work and not damage playfield paint or insert decals. If the residue is not moving satisfactorily - use "Goof Off" - This stuff will remove ANYTHING. Use sparingly and in a well ventilated area - it gives me head rushes !!!! But is is "last resort" for me - but it will do the job. Never - EVER - spray this stuff directly on a playfield. Both products are available at Bunnings - Goof Off is in a tin container the size of a cigarette packet - with a red "tip" at the end of it. Don't get the spray version. some pinheads use "DeSolvit" and "Goo Gone".. I've only seen Goo Gone in a paint store, and I've never seen Desolvit - But it is at bunnings as well..

I use a desk lamp over the playfield to "highlight" the areas that I'm working on. Its easy to lose track of where you are working on.

Don't laugh - But I once used "Brasso" to remove the residue.. Believe it or not - it DOES work, but no where near as effective as other methods. But it leaves a nice shine !

Thanks for the Info Nino, Your a asset to Aussie Arcade and im glad your back :)
Cheers for all your input to Mickey.

Strangeways
26th June 2008, 09:32 PM
Thanks for the Info Nino, Your a asset to Aussie Arcade and im glad your back :)
Cheers for all your input to Mickey.

Cheers Mate - Much appreciated !

Arcade King
1st July 2008, 02:53 PM
Just a progress report post.
I've programmed up the lastest rom revision for the game.

Here the glue from the mylar has been completely been removed, you can also see the touch up work Savage (cheers mate you're a legend) and I did around the cannon hole (see first post for pic of the wear)

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/IMG_1183.jpg

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/IMG_1189.jpg

This star post here was basically just falling out, I could have fixed it with a few methods but decided that the area must cop a flogging from the right hand flipper which is why it was loose to begin with.
I made sure there was nothing under the playfield that would stop me drilling through, once checked I drilled the hole through.
http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/IMG_1190.jpg

The post screw on the right was the original, the machine thread one on the left is what I'm replacing it with, old one pulled from a Adams Family PF (thanks Tony) and the 8-32 Tee Nut is used under the PF to screw the post in.

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/IMG_1184.jpg

Heres the finished job.

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/IMG_1192.jpg

Next pic is one after I waxed it and started putting it back together, all star posts have been removed and replaced with nice new clear ones.
I also spend quite a bit of time straightening up the warped plastics, come up great.

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/IMG_1193.jpg

Well shes almost done, I've levelled the cannon, still waiting on some parts so I can rebuild the flippers.

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/IMG_1196.jpg

Theres a post thats missing from the PF here.

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/IMG_1198.jpg

You can see what i mean from the pics at IPDB
http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=313&picno=14297&zoom=1

Things left to do.

Replace the Bally logo on the headbox - on order
Rebuild the flippers - waiting for nylon bushes
Fix the missing post.

Fish Tales
1st July 2008, 03:01 PM
that last pic.... on mine there was a post infront of the starpost near the top pop bumper (just under the whirlpool) . I had to do some work on it because it took a hell of a beating. Looks like a nice BR.
:)

Strangeways
1st July 2008, 03:11 PM
Brilliant work Travis - very impressive. That playfield looks new !

Question - RHS Sling plastic - It looks "milky" compared the the LHS. Is that the flash on the camera ?

Arcade King
1st July 2008, 03:18 PM
Pretty much the same Nino, but yes some of the clear bits have gone milky with age.
Another thing to add to the list is the Davy Jones Locker ramp wont raise properly, when it goes up it just "flings" and drops right down. If I put my hand on above it and restrict the flinging it locks up properly..

spacies
1st July 2008, 03:26 PM
Looking real good!
Nice work.

Strangeways
1st July 2008, 03:31 PM
Pretty much the same Nino, but yes some of the clear bits have gone milky with age.
Another thing to add to the list is the Davy Jones Locker ramp wont raise properly, when it goes up it just "flings" and drops right down. If I put my hand on above it and restrict the flinging it locks up properly..

Just a question mate - Does that RHS sling (upper) have a rough texture where the dirt has almost been "baked" into the clear plastic ? It almost looks like a clear that has been heated up by a globe (its not, but it sorta looks like it)..

If it is definitely a "milky" appearance - it is just the clear going "off color" and there's nothing you can do about that...

Arcade King
1st July 2008, 03:35 PM
Its not rough, the underside was cleaned to white. It looks the same as the left one to me. Maybe its just the photo.
What are you getting at? :)

AskJacob
1st July 2008, 03:42 PM
Pretty much the same Nino, but yes some of the clear bits have gone milky with age.
Another thing to add to the list is the Davy Jones Locker ramp wont raise properly, when it goes up it just "flings" and drops right down. If I put my hand on above it and restrict the flinging it locks up properly..

L4 ROMs - Do you have the L4 ROMS :)

I've been pushing and pushing on this - it fixes the ramp raising issue - it "slides" up instead of popping up, so the catch locks it properly!

I know you programmed the latest - did this problem remain?

Cheers

BTW:

Man you are quick with your restores! My IJ has been dragging on for months:sleep

Looks really nice now. Those sink ship inserts cleaned up really well too. The canon re-work looks top notch too.

Very good.... And now I know what a BR looks like with white rubbers :)

What colour flippers and flipper rubbers are you going with?

Arcade King
1st July 2008, 03:45 PM
yep problem remains, it "flings up" :(

AskJacob
1st July 2008, 03:49 PM
yep problem remains, it "flings up" :(

Is that in the solenoid test or the game?

Solenoid test doesn't do the modified lift. It does the modified lift in game. My machine can't lock in the up position in the test... works perfectly in game.

Try it by simulating a 3 bank ricochet or lighting all 3 sets of standups to open locker during a game...

Strangeways
1st July 2008, 03:49 PM
Its not rough, the underside was cleaned to white. It looks the same as the left one to me. Maybe its just the photo.
What are you getting at? :)

I bought a second set of Strikes and Spares plastics to replace my old ones, as one plastic is clear (over a kickout hole), and it had developed the same "milky" appearance. Well I replaced it with a really good one and then afterwards noticed the milky appearance was caused by a combination of dirt, smoke and crap that was "ingrained" into the plastic. It left a "leathery" texture... So with nothing to lose, I tried different methods to clean it - and stuff all worked.. until... I used a stiff toothbrush with novus and I simply "brushed" the clear section and it improved it to the point where it looked like the other plastics.

Arcade King
1st July 2008, 03:50 PM
Very good.... And now I know what a BR looks like with white rubbers :)

Here's the reason why I use white rubber ;)

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/IMG_1175.jpg

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/IMG_1178.jpg

Black rubber=bad

I just got my bits from Greg! woohoo, Time to rebuild those flippers :D won't be long now before I'm having a game :D :D

AskJacob
1st July 2008, 04:03 PM
Black rubber=bad


But that Funhouse has white rubbers :b :D

I do know what you mean though. My BR came with black, and I am so used to it... that's all really.

When it has its turn being tidied up, its an option for me to look at. Also umming and ahhing about using the blue cliffy post sleeves:unsure may look good...



I just got my bits from Greg! woohoo, Time to rebuild those flippers :D won't be long now before I'm having a game :D :D

At the rate your going, by the time I post this I'd say :lol

Arcade King
1st July 2008, 04:07 PM
nah rebuilding flippers is a shit job..I got the first one apart though :lol

felixthadog
1st July 2008, 04:30 PM
Here's the reason why I use white rubber ;)

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/IMG_1175.jpg

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/IMG_1178.jpg

Black rubber=bad

I just got my bits from Greg! woohoo, Time to rebuild those flippers :D won't be long now before I'm having a game :D :D

Fair enough about the black rubbers, but how long does it take before white rubbers develop the marks like the ones in that first pic? :unsure

Matthew

AskJacob
1st July 2008, 04:33 PM
Fair enough about the black rubbers, but how long does it take before white rubbers develop the marks like the ones in that first pic? :unsure

Matthew

depends how clean the rest of the machine is.

Novus 2 cleans white rubbers quite well. Don't put them on with dirty hands (I keep bloody doing that and havign to clean them again:x)

felixthadog
1st July 2008, 04:39 PM
depends how clean the rest of the machine is.

Novus 2 cleans white rubbers quite well. Don't put them on with dirty hands (I keep bloody doing that and havign to clean them again:x)

Would you need to clean the white rubbers more often than having to clean the ramps on a machine with black rubbers? :unsure

Matthew

stuba
1st July 2008, 05:13 PM
back off on the coffee will you. you're too fast. i prefer ryans restore speed - makes the months i take dicking about feel a little more normal. that looks like a nice funhouse. playfield looks pretty good from the pics.

Arcade King
1st July 2008, 07:25 PM
I don't **** around mate.

Awhile back somebody posted up about how their flipper kept coming loose, Tony recommended these to me.
They are locked from one side and you tighten the other, 1000% better than the regular types where you have to tighten it to almost breaking point to get it to grip.

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/IMG_1201.jpg

Here's the machine 100% working

http://www.aussiearcade.com/uploads/AK/IMG_1205.jpg

Looks and plays fantastic, what a great game, not the easiest either.

Still a few things to get, the missing post and bally symbol and shes complete.

PS the Davey Jones Locker works sweet :)

AskJacob
1st July 2008, 07:33 PM
PS the Davey Jones Locker works sweet :)

There ya go! I knew it would.

Black flippers and red rubbers - look great!

Don't forget you can kill polly - when you get a polly awarde, hammer the fire button and kill him for 2 mill.

Is this a restore record?

Are they new decals on the canon? if so where did you get them?

Cheers

Arcade King
1st July 2008, 07:43 PM
nah guess I was lucky, the decal is original :)

WOKA
1st July 2008, 07:44 PM
Looking really nice, great work as usual. Much different to what I saw a couple of weeks ago..

Can't believe the pic of the flipper part.. Surley not taken on your computer desk downstairs..? :badgrin

Burra749
1st July 2008, 08:04 PM
Looks great, did you touch up around the cannon.

Fish Tales
1st July 2008, 08:11 PM
Looks great, did you touch up around the cannon.

your BR on ebay looks nice burra, seldom see the red so bright in the decals

Arcade King
1st July 2008, 08:25 PM
Looks great, did you touch up around the cannon.

yes :)

Foot
1st July 2008, 08:27 PM
Very quick work! looks great, now have some fun playing that sucker

Ballypinball
1st July 2008, 08:28 PM
I tripped over a box full of Black rose parts today, ramps plastics etc

AskJacob
1st July 2008, 08:32 PM
Well, if they are in your way.... Surely you want to get rid of them right?

Arcade King
1st July 2008, 08:50 PM
I tripped over a box full of Black rose parts today, ramps plastics etc

what stuff you got Wayne? any of those red rectangle buttons?

Ballypinball
1st July 2008, 09:04 PM
the fire button?

Burra749
1st July 2008, 09:56 PM
your BR on ebay looks nice burra, seldom see the red so bright in the decals

Yeah, it is actually a really nice machine.
It was a hard decision to let it go.:cry
I got it for my son who is pirate mad ATM but he didnt take to it, he showed more interest in the helicopter on Rescue 911:x

David_AVD
1st July 2008, 10:01 PM
I got it for my son who is pirate mad ATM but he didnt take to it, he showed more interest in the helicopter on Rescue 911:x
So, you wanna adopt me? :lol

Strangeways
1st July 2008, 10:52 PM
Looks like a different machine, Travis. Well done.

Has to be a resto record !!!

Arcade King
2nd July 2008, 09:57 AM
the fire button?

The red fire button thats sits on top the lock down bar. Could you tell us what you found?


Looks like a different machine, Travis. Well done.

Has to be a resto record !!!

Well mate it wasnt that much wrong with it, not on the level on any of your restores.
The most annoying thing had to be the touch ups and when the switch matrix shorted taking out that ULN2803A

AskJacob
3rd July 2008, 04:05 PM
Thought I'd bring it back into this thread:

With regards to sinking the ship, a good way to get letters fast is when you load the cannon for the first time after opening the locker, try and shoot slightly to the left, so you can bounce the ball across all 3 sets of standups (yellow/green/red) - you will get 3 letters right away. And very rarely you can get the 3 standups and into the broadside - 4 letters off 1 shot.

Only works 1st time - second time you need to lock a ball to start a video mode, 3rd you need to hit the yellow standups etc...

In multiball every ramp shot also gets you a letter - but I guess you already knew that :)

Savage
3rd July 2008, 07:45 PM
Looks great. Can't wait to have a game of it!!!!!.

Arcade King
3rd July 2008, 09:29 PM
Just ironing out a few annoying problems a few of which I'll post up repair guides tomorrow.

One thing I've found is the bumper skirts get stuck down, all that was needed to fix the problem was pulling out the spring between the skirt and the body and stretching it out a bit giving it extra spring.
I don't know how the bumper bodies were done on the later model Bally stuff but these ones on Black Rose are a fantastic to work on, 5 or 6 screws and the whole thing pulls right through the play field making them so much easier to work on, the data east set up is similar but this is much better than that again.. It's a shame Williams didnt do the same.