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Strangeways
9th June 2008, 07:42 PM
I'm cheating a little here as this game is half completed, but I thought I'd start from the beginning. So updates will be "quick", and then grind to a halt for a moment as it catches up !


This machine was part of a recent trade for my Strikes and Spares. I thought I'd start this game as I have never restored a Williams SS.

Condition

Overall - A 7/10. Not bad for a game this old that has had as many plays as it would have. The game plays, although very slow - targets don't register intermittently, and the flippers are very weak

Cabinet - Seems to be sound, but it looks like it sustained some damage to the rear of the lower cabinet. A piece of wood has been hammered into it as a support. A "free play" button has been added to the front of the cabinet. This will be removed. It has the wrong set of legs.

Backglass - Reds are faded more than the other colors. No lifting or flaking, just some scratches.

Playfield - Mylar added to the lower part of the playfield, ballswirl at the top section where there was no mylar. Plastics are all good except one of the slingshots that has had an extra hole drilled at some stage

Electronics - Not bad - it's had some repairs and upgrades.. I'll attend to those as well. Displays are all good.

Starting Date - 13/4/08

Started by taking a few pictures as a reference. Then I'll strip the game, starting with the playfield. Before stripping, I had a look at the mylar to ascertain whether the mylar would come off. A test area was tried and it is removed easily ! This is a good start.

So here's a "Before" picture;


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20408.jpg


Removal of playfield parts. Took an hour or two to remove all the parts;


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20422.jpg


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20423.jpg


Notice on the above picture the line between where the mylar has protected the playfield, and where the playfield is bare ( just were the dude is standing ).

Mylar Removal

The test section was in another area, so I started from the bottom section under the flipper. The area is all black, so if any paint lifts, I'll see it easily and because it is black, I can fix it easily. It's not hard to color match black if I need to touch up. The mylar was VERY easily removed. No need for a hair dryer, freeze spray or chemicals to remove the mylar. The mylar itself is old, yellowed and hardened. There is stuff all adhesive holding the mylar to the playfield surface. So I am VERY lucky.

Disclaimer - Mylar removal is SELDOM as easy as this.. Usually, heat is needed to warm the glue as a bare minimum. Test removal from a section not seen, or already raising and have a "plan B" ready. This might involve any of the several mylar removal techniques.

Here a picture of the start from the lower RHS;

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20428.jpg


Here's the only problem I had with the mylar removal - Previous operator used screws for the flipper assembly that WERE TOO BLOODY LONG, and protruded through the playfield. So when the mylar was removed, the already loose paint just lifted off. Lucky for me - this area is covered by the flipper Laughing

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20435.jpg


After 3 hours Mylar is removed. There is some stubborn adhesive left on the playfield that needed to be removed. I used GOOF OFF and a rag to remove it. Make sure that if you use this product, you use it in a well ventilated area and you spray the chemical on a rag - NOT the playfield directly.

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20436.jpg

After GOOF OFF, Novus 3 and then Novus 2 with a buff.. This is how it will look ;

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20437.jpg

There's the first 6 hours covered !!

spacies
9th June 2008, 07:50 PM
Now that is a playfield you don't want to have to touch up!

illawarra_steelers
9th June 2008, 07:55 PM
Nino,

FFS - are you just back to show off? ;)

Shock_And_Awe
9th June 2008, 08:06 PM
Good pictures and so far so good with the restore Nino.

Do you put mylar down again to protect the playfield or will the playfield be ok with just home use?

Wotto
9th June 2008, 08:12 PM
Nino,

FFS - are you just back to show off? ;)


No- but I am - wait and see !!!!:lol:lol:badgrin:lol:lol

Strangeways
9th June 2008, 08:55 PM
Good pictures and so far so good with the restore Nino.

Do you put mylar down again to protect the playfield or will the playfield be ok with just home use?

No mylar.. As you say, its a home use only pinball, so for the rest of its life, it will be cleaned and waxed regularly. Its surprisingly good for a pin of its age, and the amount of games it would have played.


Nino,

FFS - are you just back to show off? ;)

Me ?

"show off"....

That's just madness....:lol

markc
9th June 2008, 09:36 PM
nino


show offfffffffffffffffffff

but hes good at what he does ......

Arcade King
9th June 2008, 09:44 PM
Thing looks 99.9% better than the one I had.
Keep those updates rolling :)

Strangeways
11th June 2008, 09:35 AM
Time to attack the ballswirl and clean the playfield properly. I used Isocol and Chux Magic Eraser and worked the Right Hand side of the playfield and parts of the Left Hand Side.

Here's a picture of the untouched LHS and the cleaned RHS

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20077.jpg http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20076.jpg



Big Difference, and it took about an hour.

Remember the playfield was only half mylared - only the bottom half ? Well if you look closely, you will see the line where the mylar ended. Just around man's torso. I've done his left shoulder and some of his hair..

Big Difference ???

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20075.jpg


Here's a closeup... Note that his left shoulder blends into the section BELOW the mylar line ? Easily done with a little time and effort

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20082.jpg


More playfield updates shortly...

Strangeways
12th June 2008, 01:45 PM
Gathering a bit of momentum on this restore. The playfield is just about right. I've finished with the "ballswirl" and I've used a sharpie around the inserts after cleaning it. I finished off with a good polish with Novus 2.


Flash Man


Below is the finished Flash "man"... WAS Half mylared and half ballswirl.. He looks pretty good. Well compared with what he looked like before !

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20100.jpg


Lower Section

Looks much better. The lines that run with the grain have almost disappeared. Small details like the cleaning of the white areas under the plastics have been cleaned.


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20095.jpg


Mid Section


The FLASH insert is missing here as it was waaaay too high and it needed a good clean. With just a few hours, the results can be rewarding.


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20096.jpg


Top Section


Not the best part of the playfield due to the wear across the top of the playfield. It was kind of corrugated, but the magic eraser improved that somewhat. Most of this area is covered by parts - so it won't be as pronounced.


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20101.jpg


I'm really pleased with the progress of this playfield. It is a lot different than it was prior to the mylar removal.


I'm currently rebuilding all the underside mechanisms. This involves stripping all of the assemblies - Target, Flipper, Kicker, Slings and Bumper. All are washed in a nifti / water solution and cleaned with a toothbrush, or green scotchwhite pad. Then they are usually soaked in alcohol to remove anything not removed by the nifti. Finally, metal pieces are thrown in the tumbler.

All plastics have a similar treatment - Washed in Nifti solution, rinsed in water and then cleaned with Novus 2.

What I'm left with is piles of metal parts ready to be reinstalled. Assemblies are reassembled, and anything that looks broken is replaced - or if the springs are weak they are replaced also. New coil sleeves are used in EVERY mechanism. New globes as well.

Flipper rebuild kit was provided by Greg at www.rtbb.com.au..

Now to start on the body !

:lol

The Pinny Parlour
12th June 2008, 02:19 PM
Nice one.

Strangeways
21st June 2008, 11:35 PM
Well it has been a while, but I've made enough progress for an update. I'm concentrating on the cabinet, and after stripping everything, cleaning and polishing, I had to make a few repairs.

Repairs

The first was that the rear of the cabinet was broken. I had to drill four holes and screw down the frame on the body where the head is mounted to the rear of the body with 100mm wood screws. Secondly the base had come loose and the rear of the cabinet, so I also glued a bracket to secure it. The rear of the cabinet had some plywood sheet glued and nailed to support the head base, so I removed that and repainted the rear.

The on/off switch is mounted on a wooden plate which was split, so I cut a new one and drilled a 30 mm hole on one side and an 18mm hole on the other side. It has been glued to the base and then nailed from below

Other items;

- Legs were cleaned polished & new leg levellers and bolts were installed
- Cables were washed and reinstalled
- I wired in a new power cable and connector
- The mechanisms on the white board to the LHS of the cab were removed, cleaned and rebuilt
- Lockdown assembly was rusted and bent. So I spent a few hours cleaning and straightening it. Came up really well.
- Rebuilt the door, head and checked all the connectors etc...

Cabinet Pictures


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20117.jpghttp://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20118.jpg


Door

The door was filthy with rust and crap - coke stains and the like.. So it was stripped, every part was tumbled or polished. The door skin was regrained using wet/Dry 180 Grit / 330 wet/dry grit with windex. Worked in straight lines and then left to dry. The front coin entrance plate was polished to a high shine. Took around 2 hours to complete. Still need to install a lock


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20121.jpg


Head

All the boards were removed and will be upgraded or repaired. Everything is cleaned with windex. Transformer is removed and checked before being installed. Connectors looks to be in good condition. There was a fair bit of rust on the screws etc - so I used my bench grinder with a wire fitting and just cleaned them. I hate rust.


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20124.jpg


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20128.jpg


Head installed


With all the repairs done, I fitted the head, installed the back legs and the door. Here is an overall view of the game as of tonight;


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20130.jpg


Front Door Fitted


The door is installed and the ball plunger is polished and installed. New springs, clips and washers.. Its starting to come together nicely..


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20133.jpg


Now back to the playfield !

Railways
22nd June 2008, 01:14 AM
Very nice attention to detail Nino- very impressed:) .Love the resto tips so far especially this magic eraser thing-must find out more. congrats on the fortunate mylar removal as from one experience it can go pear shaped no matter how much care or the procedure used. Makes me wonder if restoring a pin with mylar on it is the P/F the 1st point of call before you spend a lot of time elsewhere on the project. sorry for any typos as my daughter is doing keyboard and I'm sort of dictating:p

Strangeways
22nd June 2008, 10:49 AM
Very nice attention to detail Nino- very impressed:) .Love the resto tips so far especially this magic eraser thing-must find out more. congrats on the fortunate mylar removal as from one experience it can go pear shaped no matter how much care or the procedure used. Makes me wonder if restoring a pin with mylar on it is the P/F the 1st point of call before you spend a lot of time elsewhere on the project. sorry for any typos as my daughter is doing keyboard and I'm sort of dictating:p

Thanks for the kind words, Jeff - Each machine is taken on its own merit with regard to mylar removal. I try a test spot first and then decide from there. Strikes and Spares was a case on leaving it alone, as the mylar was in excellent condition, and the playfield underneath was pristine. I did not want to run the risk of damaging that playfield.

I do tend to start with mylar removal on restorations, as if I don't, it "plays" on my mind and I rush other parts of the restoration. Mylar removal is the hardest part of a restoration - by far - because "if" a mistake is made, it can ruin a game - and I have no idea how to do playfield touch ups and clearcoats. But that will change soon, I'm having a go at it....;)

Strangeways
24th June 2008, 11:22 PM
Back to the playfield. I have started populating the playfield. The metal guides are regrained with wet/dry 180 grit and Windex. I never polish them, as that's not what they did in the factory. All the post except a couple are installed and most other parts are installed. New bumper skirts and bodies really look nice on a polished playfield. The playfield has 4 coats of Meguirs carnauba wax and is polished to a high shine. Sure beats aged mylar !

Here's a few update pictures;

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20112.jpg


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20113.jpg


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20114.jpg


The underside assemblies have been rebuilt and only the centre drop target assembly is left to be stripped, cleaned and installed. I plan on making the game a little different from original - Similar to what wotto did on his fabulous Flash restore.

The boards have been removed and I will be going over them this week.

Cheers !

Creech
24th June 2008, 11:30 PM
Looking good Nino. I researched this game on IPDB and it has a pretty high rating. I can't wait to see the finished product.

Creech
26th June 2008, 08:51 PM
I plan on making the game a little different from original - Similar to what wotto did on his fabulous Flash restore.

Can you elaborate on this Nino?

How will you tackle that bit of damage on the front of the cabinet under the lockdown bar?

illawarra_steelers
26th June 2008, 09:10 PM
Can you elaborate on this Nino?

How will you tackle that bit of damage on the front of the cabinet under the lockdown bar?

My money is installing 2 drop target banks where the 6 stationary targets are, that is the way the prototype was designed but Williams decided against it because of cost cutting.

By the way - when this pin came out it was just played to death for years!

Creech
26th June 2008, 09:19 PM
And 19,505 made. That makes it the 4th most ever produced pinball. The top 3 in order are:

1. Ballyhoo ~ 75,000
2. The Addams Family = 20,270
3. Eight Ball = 20,230

(Care of www.ipdb.org)

Strangeways
26th June 2008, 09:31 PM
Actually - it is not really damaged that much - well not bad enough to repair. The previous lock down bar must have been shoved down and scraped the paint. It can be repainted, or a paint pen be used..

Elaborate - That's a surprise !

The drop target mod can be done, but I think the ROM code would need to be changed somewhat.

Skybeaux
30th June 2008, 07:33 PM
My money is installing 2 drop target banks where the 6 stationary targets are, that is the way the prototype was designed but Williams decided against it because of cost cutting.

By the way - when this pin came out it was just played to death for years!

I think your getting mixed up with Firepower and the 6 stationary targets.


Looks great so far Nino..:023:

Better than mine.

Railways
30th June 2008, 09:09 PM
Week by week it's looking better and better Nino- never realised that so many were made Tony - thanks for that as I might have a sniff around;)

Strangeways
8th July 2008, 08:10 PM
While I'm waiting on bits from Mark, I thought I'd finish rebuilding the underside of the playfield. As with all the games I restore - Everything is stripped, cleaned and rebuilt with new parts where possible.

The two target banks were full of old oil which provided more friction than anything else. So they were all stripped and washed with Nifti and then soaked in Isocol. The plungers are placed in the tumbler, and they are really smooth when finished. No oil or lubricant is used. I used a green scotchbrite pad to clean the contact PCBs and the "fingers" mounted on the targets. Replace the coil sleeves and we are good to go..


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20503.jpg


Still a little bit to go under the playfield. A previous repair saw the lower RHS flipper coil wired in parallel with the upper RHS flipper - no wonder the flippers are so weak. I plan on correcting this by installing two EOS switches and a spacer between them (as designed).. So that when the coil is pulled, the EOS is activated and then the coil voltage is routed to the top RHS flipper..


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20134.jpg


Here's my favorite pic so far... The nice new target decals with a piece of protective mylar.. Look at that shine !!


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20135.jpg


Right - Flash and Rocky are waiting on parts now.. WTF an I going to do :badgrin

Arcade King
8th July 2008, 08:49 PM
Flash my first ever game, amazing work as usual Nino.

Creech
8th July 2008, 09:50 PM
Bloody awesome Nino - looking fab as usual!

Strangeways
22nd July 2008, 11:17 PM
The planets have aligned with the parts all arriving this week..

Most of the Electronic spares for the boards arrived from Ed at GPE
MarkC parts arrived as well flipper switches, globes, rubbers etc...

What I have done -

Installed the rubbers and globes - but before installing the globes, I cleaned the sockets with a neat little tool I bought from PBR...
Plastics are warped, so they will go in the over and be straightened. I thought I'd do a "mock" run to see how the plastics would look with the Custom :lol Bumper caps.


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20200.jpg


The lower flipper Bats were donated by Ken (Skybeaux) - cheers mate ! The upper RHS bat is a standard Bally flipper bat - there for looks. It won't be installed on the game - its a Williams pin, so I use Williams parts, not Bally :lol:lol:lol


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20201.jpg


Like Wotto, I don't like the white factory bumper caps, so I've gone with Red caps and red lane guides - both transparent. Makes the game more "modern" and pleasing to the eye.


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20202.jpg


"Balls eye view".. Playfield has come a long way since I started...


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20203.jpg


So at the moment, I'm rebuilding the boards by installing manditory upgrades, replacing connectors, ROM sockets, and the infamous interconnect.

I'm pleased with the progress, even though it is taking a bit longer than I expected !

Creech
22nd July 2008, 11:32 PM
How nice is that? Keep the pics coming - love the updates.

Skybeaux
23rd July 2008, 08:28 AM
Coming along really nicely Nino ,the bumper caps look cool..:cool:

I find Williams machines always require more work and take longer to get them up and running properly.

Strangeways
23rd July 2008, 09:03 AM
Coming along really nicely Nino ,the bumper caps look cool..:cool:

I find Williams machines always require more work and take longer to get them up and running properly.

That's why I bought all the bits to keep the boards stable. I've started to remove the interconnects and the 24 pin sockets on the CPU board, and it is a lot less delicate then the MPU -17 and MPU -35..

Skybeaux
23rd July 2008, 09:17 AM
That's why I bought all the bits to keep the boards stable. I've started to remove the interconnects and the 24 pin sockets on the CPU board, and it is a lot less delicate then the MPU -17 and MPU -35..

The -17 and -35 can be bastards at times.:badgrin
The Stern mpu's are made a lot better.

The Williams boards are made well and are generally easier to work on.
You do get the odd shit one at times that isn't made as well.:lol

retropin
23rd July 2008, 09:34 AM
Williams boards are Waaaay better to work on than Bally - 35 etc.
Nice solid connections on a Williams, is almost a pleasure to work on those Molex connectors compared to the silly and cramped Bally connects. And the Bally power board? What a dum ass piece of design that is - my least favourite board of all time!

Strangeways
23rd July 2008, 09:40 AM
Williams boards are Waaaay better to work on than Bally - 35 etc.
Nice solid connections on a Williams, is almost a pleasure to work on those Molex connectors compared to the silly and cramped Bally connects. And the Bally power board? What a dum ass piece of design that is - my least favourite board of all time!

Thanks for the interconnects, Gavin.. The old ones were a pleasure to remove, compared with the Ballys...

Bally power board is a pain.. I just rebuild the buggers.. waaay too much stress on those connectors !

Strangeways
1st August 2008, 11:16 PM
'bout time for a mini update. The order came through from Ed at GPE and I have been repairing and upgrading the boards. They seem to be in great condition except the usual connector issues, but I thought I'd replace known problematic components to ensure the only phone calls I get from the new owner is;

"Got any more machines for sale", rather than;

"Problems again, she won't boot" :lol

So 5 hours spent doing the boards and checking everything over is worth the expense for a trouble free and reliable machine. Williams machines System 3 to System 7 have the interconnector woes.. Reboots, lock up and intermittent issues. But I decided to replace more than just that !

Here is the result of the time spent on these boards ;


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20252.jpg


Nice and clean - common failure points replaced. Interconnects replaced - special thanks to Gavin (Retropin) who sent me some interconnects while I waited for the main order from GPE. Notice the Red and Black wires soldered to the underside of the boards ? Seems a very interesting upgrade done by a previous tech. I like the idea, gives a common ground to all boards. I'm going to leave this modification in place - it is a tidy job, and it won't hurt to leave it there.


MPU Board


Battery cut out and it will be replaced with a remote battery holder. ROMs are freshly burnt for the game Male interconnects soldered in place. All other connectors checked and resoldered underneath.


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20253.jpg


Driver Board


Female interconnectors replaced. 27 Ohm 5 Watt lamp matrix resistors replaced and two connectors were replaced. Resoldered connectors


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20254.jpg


Sound PCB


Not much done here - Replaced the caps and resoldered the connectors


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20255.jpg


Power Board


PLENTY done on this board. Connectors checked and replaced where necessary.

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20256.jpg


- C15 filter cap replace with an 15,000mfd Cap for 5 V and 12 V supply. 12,000mfd is standard for a two flipper game, 15,000mfd for a 3 flipper game.

- J5 & J6 replaced - HV and +5V

- display Power diodes

- J1 & J2 replaced - 5V and Power Input

- The entire Display HV section was replaced with the kit supplied by GPE.. Covers all the main parts in that area.


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20258.jpg


I'm going to test the boards in the game this weekend.... First, I will have to replace the Trifurcon pins and housings...

Creech
1st August 2008, 11:24 PM
Looking great Nino - better than new!

Skybeaux
2nd August 2008, 09:16 AM
Looks like a nice, thorough job you've done on the boards.
Whoever is lucky enough to end up owning this pin should have a very reliable machine indeed:cool:

Arcade King
2nd August 2008, 09:25 AM
Nice work Nino

Just curious have you replaced the rom sockets? they look like the old style single wipe one.

Strangeways
2nd August 2008, 09:54 AM
Nice work Nino

Just curious have you replaced the rom sockets? they look like the old style single wipe one.

Great pick up Travis.

I will test the game sometime this weekend, and because I have made so many changes at once, I wanted to get the game working 100 % before tackling the MPU sockets. It will be the last thing I do on the boards. I will add a battery pack and that will finish it off.

terry007
2nd August 2008, 12:27 PM
Bloody hell Nino, you have set the bar a bit high for me on this one.
I still havent got mine out of the shed yet!
Good work, and I hope my Flash comes out looking this good.

GORGAR 1
9th August 2008, 10:50 PM
Looks nice-I owned a flash several years ago and it has sadly moved on to a new owner..Do miss that game..

Peter

Strangeways
9th August 2008, 10:56 PM
The weather has been really crap here in Melbourne and I've had the flu (again), so not much time spent on pins.. However, I ventured out last night and worked most of the day on the playfield...Here's the mini update;

- Plastics all straightened in the oven. Turned out really well. Rather than describe it - have a look at Wotto's site which is the procedure I follow on flattening plastic -

http://home.kooee.com.au/brainsnap/flatteningwarpedplastics.html

- Finished installing the flipper rebuild kits I got from Greg
- Made new wireform for the area behind the LHS target bank. They were replaced by posts, and I didn't like them
- Finished installing the rubbers, flipper guides, globes
- Installed the flattened plastics

This is what she looks like tonight ;

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20261.jpg

- Note - Like Wotto's Flash, I don't like the original bumper caps. I like the transparent Red lane guides and the Red bumper caps. Gives the game a more "Modern" look, and the original caps are off color. I'm not sure if I will print off some decals to go on the caps...

Ball's eye view...

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20262.jpg

Nice shine.. amazing what 4 coats of wax will do to an old playfield. I have used Meguiars Paste wax on over 20 restored machines and it never fails to impress. I tried Johnson's and Mother's, but they are both not even close.. You can get it a "supercheap auto".. Make sure it is paste wax - not liquid.. Here a link to the product;

http://meguiarsdirect.stage.suresource.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+M2611&.

Cabinet Repair...

Just below the Credit button, a previous owner drilled a hole and installed a button which was wired to the coin switch.. I have removed that button, and I made a "plug" for it which I glued in and I will "fill" it with bondo, sand and paint over..

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20259.jpg


Close Up;


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20260.jpg


Should be an easy repair. I might paint just the red sections on the front door..


I installed the upgraded boards, tested the voltages in spec and fired up the game - she booted without any issue.

Creech
9th August 2008, 11:03 PM
Very nice work Nino.

I can vouch for Meguiars being a great product. Always use it on my cars - won't touch anything else.

GORGAR 1
10th August 2008, 08:34 AM
Looks awesome Nino-I got some transparant lane guides for my GORGAR off Greg also and they look great and abit modern also..

It sure is Pinball weather in Melbourne at the moment..

Peter

Strangeways
11th August 2008, 11:04 PM
Greg dropped off some flipper cab switches and the proper EOS for the Flash (SW-2010-A) - Why is this important ? Because the previous owner or Operator decided to take a short cut and wire the RHS coils in parallel, rather than replace the part. This EOS is designed to open the EOS switch and close the second set to re route the power to the upper flipper, rather than divide the power between the two coils..


Here's the flipper rebuild kits and the installed Switch (LHS in picture). I will use the second EOS on the upper flipper. The replaced switch is unsoldered and placed on the RHS of the photo...

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20265.jpg

Back to the Cabinet repair

I was sweating over this repair... I bought 3 cans of red spray paint and tried it on one section - not a match.. the other were both too dark... First, sand down the area that I filled yesterday, and then use 3M tape and a sharp knife to cut around the areas I did not want painted ;


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20271.jpg http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20272.jpg


It turned out OK... But the color difference was just too noticeable.
I wanted to try using a low tack transparent packing tape to mask the area - just as an experiment. So I tested the "tackiness" in a section of paint under the legs and it worked ok.. So I applied the tape in the area surrounding the paint area, and jut around it using an exacto. Then I masked off the area and covered it with newspaper.. sprayed on 3 light coats - just to get a match with the area I filled... and it worked. I removed the tape after the last coat and it came off clean without lifting a dot of original paint.


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20273.jpg


Here is a picture of just the packing tape cutouts...


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20275.jpg


Finished result ! I'm happy with it - Certainly better than leaving the hole there !


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20278.jpg


Heres a view from above - with the playfield finally dropping into place, and a picture of the playfield on its own...


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20279.jpg http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20280.jpg


I'm just waiting on some cabinet switches and a flipper bat before I can power it on and have a game !

Strangeways
31st August 2008, 08:30 PM
FINALLY - Flash lives !

Rather than purchase another flipper rebuild kit just for the upper flipper, I ordered the flipper plunger and coil stop from Greg. Installed that today as well as two new flipper button switches. I then switched it on and it worked fine. It had an interesting problem where the game would tilt by just tapping the body ! It ended up being simply the fish paper behind the door slam tilt. It had become bent out of shape. Took 2 seconds to fix.

I made some adjustments - switches and the EOS and it plays very well :cool:

Here's some progress pictures. Not much left to go now !

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20368.jpg


Nice Playfield thanks to Magic Eraser, Meguiars Wax and some elbow grease


http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20369.jpg http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20370.jpg


So what's left to do ?

Back to the CPU board and now that I know everything works, I'll replace the ROM sockets to ensure reliability

I'll install 2 fuse holders from the BRs to the playfield as an extra safeguard.

I need an extra flipper NEW flipper bat - there's an old one there at the moment just so I can playtest it.

New flipper buttons

Install the spinner - repaint with new decal.

Rewire the front door

Play it for a while to iron out any issues !

Next update I'll take pictures without the flash (camera flash :lol) - so the playfield lights can be seen

GORGAR 1
1st September 2008, 11:54 AM
She's come up a treat Nino "well done"-those clips that you have used to hold the wiring loom in the backbox are they avalible or are they just from bunnings. Mines missing some and over time has rubbed the backglass paint off(before I got it) .They hold the wiring to the white board the globes protrude through.

Peter

AskJacob
1st September 2008, 12:02 PM
Jaycar have them, but not in black, just "natural" white nylon:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP0752

They have them in 5mm, 7mm and 10mm loop sizes.

Cheers
Jacob

Foot
1st September 2008, 12:21 PM
:023: Very Nice

GORGAR 1
1st September 2008, 12:29 PM
[QUOTE=AskJacob;203245]Jaycar have them, but not in black, just "natural" white nylon:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP0752

They have them in 5mm, 7mm and 10mm loop sizes.

Cheers
Jacob[/QUOTE

Thanks Jacob-I'm after the white so will drop in and pick some up..

Peter

stuba
1st September 2008, 01:04 PM
looks great nino, wish i lived a bit closer, i'd play test it for you! :-) Cheers

Strangeways
1st September 2008, 02:06 PM
Jaycar have them, but not in black, just "natural" white nylon:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP0752

They have them in 5mm, 7mm and 10mm loop sizes.

Cheers
Jacob

That does the trick nicely... Some machines had black, some had white..

felixthadog
1st September 2008, 04:38 PM
Jaycar have them, but not in black, just "natural" white nylon:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP0752

They have them in 5mm, 7mm and 10mm loop sizes.

Cheers
Jacob

You can get them from Dick Smith too, in both white and black :)

Matthew

AskJacob
1st September 2008, 04:53 PM
You can get them from Dick Smith too, in both white and black :)

Matthew

Eh I don't even bother looking there anymore - they are soon to be the next goodguys or harvey norman.

All my local stores no longer sell components :x

(that and their site was down most of today :))

felixthadog
1st September 2008, 06:20 PM
Eh I don't even bother looking there anymore - they are soon to be the next goodguys or harvey norman.

All my local stores no longer sell components :x

(that and their site was down most of today :))

Fair enough, there are 3 shops in Melbourne CBD so I can go there at lunchtime and if they don't have what I need, I then go to Jaycar. I haven't noticed too much of a decline in their stock, but I figure that is because the stuff I generally buy there is still available.

Matthew

johnwartjr
2nd September 2008, 01:34 PM
Looking good.

I've used tons of stuff from Ed @ GPE. I did 2 or 3 Solar Fires, 2 Jungle Lords, and a Laser Cue last year. Interconnect replacement and PS rebuild have been the best investments in overall system reliability on those games.

That big cap always needs replacing!

AskJacob
2nd September 2008, 01:50 PM
Looking good.

I've used tons of stuff from Ed @ GPE. I did 2 or 3 Solar Fires, 2 Jungle Lords, and a Laser Cue last year. Interconnect replacement and PS rebuild have been the best investments in overall system reliability on those games.

That big cap always needs replacing!

Yep, the GPE stuff saves a lot of stuffing around finding parts.

Those big caps probably are just a big can of ancient dust. When you remove them they are suprisingly light - especially compared to the replacement!

Cheers

ajim
2nd September 2008, 01:54 PM
Posting to play

Strangeways
5th September 2008, 10:28 AM
A quick update. The Game is tuned and plays exceptionally well. It is VERY fast and I forgot how much fun this game really is...

I thought I'd safeguard the GI and Solenoid circuits by installing a fuse holder between the transformer and Bridge Rectifiers. If a bridge shorts, it will blow a fuse, not cook the transformer. 8 AMP SB fuse will do. I mounted the fuses under the current fuse holder.. Looks like this ;

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20387.jpg


After playing the game for an hour or two (time flies)... I took some pictures of the game "lit up: with the backglass on.. but the flash "off" on the camera..

http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20389.jpg http://www.users.on.net/~nzambello/flash/Picture%20390.jpg

All the problems are ironed out...

Still need to ;

repaint spinner and apply a decal
Beer seal installed on the lock down bar
change the el cheapo ROM sockets
Tidy up the wiring in the head
Replace the upper RHS flipper bat and both flipper buttons
Install the backglass



Not far from done now

gottman
5th September 2008, 06:24 PM
Looks exceptional Nino ! :023: :023: :023:

The new owner will have a kick ass F L A S H !