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AskJacob
7th April 2008, 04:57 PM
Hi All,

Though I'd keep a thread burning here for my 1979 Stern Dracula.

What I have done so far:

1 - rebuilt mpu board, had corrosion damage, and had been (mutilated) repaired by a once well known mob. Took a long time to strip back and repair the board. I guess it's different when you own the thing...
2 - Rebuilt power supply board - just basic component replacements
3 - Re-did power wiring (I have to post pics) - damn good reason to inspect before powering up... this sucker was going to kill someone (probably me)
4 - added 'SuperCap' to retain memory
5 - strip back playfield and clean clean clean
7 - derusted/polished all the metal rails (but not the little posts for now)
8 - pulled, cleaned and rebuilt the solenoids (for now have left the aluminium coil sleeves as they were OK... but am tempted to replace with nylon)
9 - reseated and glued loose inserts
10 - carefully cleaned apron (that paint really wants to come off!!)

What is remaining to do:

1 - The usual dodgy light sockets are a PITA
2 - Sound issues (not working every time it fires up)
3 - Upper dead bumper is a generic star type cap is wrong should be a 'Deco' type with skull image.
4 - Spinner is wrong - it is from a Future Spa
5 - I need to get some 3" rubber rings (these were the only ones I didn't have handy)
6 - Some switch adjusting
7 - Missing Plastics: The small one above the saucer, the long thin one above the standup targets on the right, the curved one behind the cats/bats drop targets
8 - adjust drop targets so they are level with playfield
9 - outhole kicker transistor is bad
10 - Play it

What I need to do one day, but want to play first:

1 - remove the craptacular mylar (http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php?t=13171)
2 - remove + tumble polish the posts
3 - Have a good hard look at the cabinet and see what needs to be done, or is it OK.
4 - The backglass is not in good shape, with a lot of paint shrinkage/cracking...

Anyway, I'll update as I go. I have heaps of pics.. what sort of pics do you want me to put up?

I am OK to try and create 'resto' plastics, but need an image source if possible (can create from flyer and imagination, but would prefer better sources). Balls of steel has nothing :( - will have when I'm done :)

LOTR4U
7th April 2008, 05:01 PM
pics pleaseeee ;)

AskJacob
7th April 2008, 05:09 PM
OK,

1 - Partially stripped and grubby as hell

2 - Now with a bit of novus #2...

rod71
7th April 2008, 06:25 PM
Sound problem is most likely dodgy J5 cable between mpu and sound board.

AskJacob
7th April 2008, 10:46 PM
Yeah Rod71, I'm guessing it is something like that.

If I fiddle with it, it crashes the machine out, with some interesting sound effects!

The PCB pin connectors actually look slightly tarnished... I tried a temp fix with a brass brush but it didn't make it worse or better. I assume the mating connectors are in bad shape too :(

Damn, I can't believe how many wires go from the CPU board to this sound card which only has 6 sounds!

Can anyone point me to a circuit diagram for the stern soundboard? (more out of curiosity on how it works and why so many wires!)

I would also like to figure out what the 3 trimpots on the soundboard do...

rod71
7th April 2008, 11:11 PM
Yeah Rod71, I'm guessing it is something like that.

If I fiddle with it, it crashes the machine out, with some interesting sound effects!

The PCB pin connectors actually look slightly tarnished... I tried a temp fix with a brass brush but it didn't make it worse or better. I assume the mating connectors are in bad shape too :(


Yeah usually the connectors themselves. Some games had ribbon cables and some had the regular wires with red connectors.

You can purchase a new cable from the States which saves a lot of buggering around. Or you can rebuild it yourself etc.


Damn, I can't believe how many wires go from the CPU board to this sound card which only has 6 sounds!

Can anyone point me to a circuit diagram for the stern soundboard? (more out of curiosity on how it works and why so many wires!)

I would also like to figure out what the 3 trimpots on the soundboard do...

I think i have a pdf of the SB-100 diagram somewhere. PM me and i'll sort it out for you :)

The 3 pots control the pitch of the sounds.

If the sounds are in tune, dont mess with it as it's a bugger to get sounding good again :)

One of the pots controls the 10's and 10k sounds. Another controls the 100's sound, and the last one controls the 1k sound.

My Hot Hand which uses the same sound board was shockingly out of tune. I'm a muso with a good ear, so i noticed it straight away :)

AskJacob
7th April 2008, 11:18 PM
Yeah usually the connectors themselves. Some games had ribbon cables and some had the regular wires with red connectors.

You can purchase a new cable from the States which saves a lot of buggering around. Or you can rebuild it yourself etc.



I think i have a pdf of the SB-100 diagram somewhere. PM me and i'll sort it out for you :)

The 3 pots control the pitch of the sounds.

If the sounds are in tune, dont mess with it as it's a bugger to get sounding good again :)

One of the pots controls the 10's and 10k sounds. Another controls the 100's sound, and the last one controls the 1k sound.

My Hot Hand which uses the same sound board was shockingly out of tune. I'm a muso with a good ear, so i noticed it straight away :)

Ah, so my will was strong enough to avoid 'fiddling to see what they did'. Good job too as I wouldn't have a clue if they would be in tune or not. It doesn't sound awful, but without knowing what it should be like, I guess I'll leave it well alone for now.

Yeah, my wires are individuals with red connectors. Don't like the idea of making my own, there is a lot of wires to crimp... but then again money is a bit tight so I'll have a think about it.

I'll PM you about the PDF. Cheers :)

Skybeaux
8th April 2008, 07:56 AM
They are one of the worst designed sound boards.
When Stern was busy stealing Bally board designs they should have copied their sound board as well instead of creating this woeful piece of shit themselves.

Only around 17 wires are actually used for connecting Cpu to the sound board.
The others are just for decoration.

AskJacob
8th April 2008, 12:08 PM
Just been looking at the soundboard diagram.

Damn! That is pretty darn complex design for such a simple set of sounds.

A lot of hardware to perform stuff that these days you wouldn't even blink over performing in software. CPU cycles sure were expensive back then!

I count 18 wires on J1 that actually do anything...

So the breakdown is:
8 data lines
1 power line
3 address lines
6 control lines (reset etc)

for 6 'sounds'... wow! (granted, this same soundboard if populated would also be capable of 10 sounds... but still :o )

AskJacob
9th April 2008, 10:43 PM
Progress update:

Fixed the outhole kicker problem: On a suggestion from Ballypinball, I replaced all the diodes on the power driver board. One of them fell apart while I was removing!

Sound seems to be stable at the moment. Looks like it is a dodgy connector... I think I'll leave it for now (unless it comes back :))

Just played it for an hour. Can't get the grin off my face.

Work to do of course, but... I can play it!

candyflip
9th April 2008, 11:05 PM
And is it playing as well as you (and I) remember it?

Always liked this machine (like all the 80's Sterns)

:)

AskJacob
10th April 2008, 08:51 AM
And is it playing as well as you (and I) remember it?

Always liked this machine (like all the 80's Sterns)

:)

Hmm.. how to answer that one :)

I was 4 years old when this machine was new :)

To be honest, I don't recall playing much pinball until I was around 15 or so, and by then I was being 'spoilt' with machines that had ramps, toys, music and alphanumeric displays...

I really really wanted to get something a bit earlier than that, even if I didn't end up keeping it - I guess to help complete my pinball exposure. In that vein I am still interested in getting an EM at some point...

So, to be fair, except from a few times 'out and about' (remember the awesome collection of old machines that used to be at the top of the Scenic Railway at Katoomba anyone?) I had not really played a machine like Dracula. Opportunity knocked, this is my one story of being in the right place at the right time, and I was able to get this machine....

All of that said, I really like the game. It is a much more 'zen' experience than my other machines (which are more modern). I now know why it isn't fair to compare machines from different eras - they are completely different animals. The selection of shots is few and simple, but their execution requires precision and sequencing (something I am not so hot at yet :)). If you just want to bat the ball around and see what happens, hey that works too - it just is a different paced machine... All the mechanics have their own unique sound... a satisfying kerchunk from the drop targets, the rather startling whack of the flippers, and a very impressive replay knocker (I wonder why the moved from the cab to the backbox?)...

I am wondering about how my friends will react to it... I'm hoping they won't be asking how to start multi-ball, and complain about the 'crappy sounds'....

Cheers

AskJacob
10th April 2008, 09:07 AM
Project Update:

What is remaining to do:

1 - The usual dodgy light sockets are a PITA

Not really keen on doing too much here right now. I tried to solder the bayonet cups onto the brackets without much success... So until I het some flux I'll leave it. Any that were 'out' have been worked enough to get th ebulb to light. Quite a few a still flickery and sensitive to vibration though

2 - Sound issues (not working every time it fires up)

This seems to be more stable now. Looks like it was a bit of corrosion on the pins/connectors. A bit of working them in+out has 'cleaned' them. If it comes back I'll need to replace them though

3 - Upper dead bumper is a generic star type cap is wrong should be a 'Deco' type with skull image.

Found replacements online in the US. Am worried I'll have to get all new bumper caps though, as if I replace one it will be white, the other 3 will be yellowed... So more $$$ = more patience :)

4 - Spinner is wrong - it is from a Future Spa

Was hoping someone who has a Future Spa would want the spinner, and swap it for a plain one...

5 - I need to get some 3" rubber rings (these were the only ones I didn't have handy)

Still need to get these (waiting to tack them onto an order for some parts for my IJ)

6 - Some switch adjusting

Middle playfield Advance Bonus rollover not working. All the others seem to be fine after a bit of playing.

7 - Missing Plastics: The small one above the saucer, the long thin one above the standup targets on the right, the curved one behind the cats/bats drop targets

Have started asking if anyone has scans/photos/anything that would help to recreate these.

8 - adjust drop targets so they are level with playfield

Need to get some new socket cap head bolts to do this, as they are missing.

9 - outhole kicker transistor is bad

No it wasn't. It was all the diodes on the solenoid board going bad from age. All replaced now: http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php?t=13306

10 - Play it

Finally got to do some of that :p

-----

Attached is an image showing why you really want to check over a machine before plugging it in. Some hack replaced the original power cord with a cut back extension lead (no real issue there). But, they couldn't solder for craps, so twisted the wires all over the originals which were cut back... and all the stray copper was only mm from the earth braiding :o

candyflip
10th April 2008, 11:00 AM
Hmm.. how to answer that one :)

I was 4 years old when this machine was new :)

To be honest, I don't recall playing much pinball until I was around 15 or so, and by then I was being 'spoilt' with machines that had ramps, toys, music and alphanumeric displays...

SNIP .....

.....about the 'crappy sounds'....

Cheers

Wow, nice writing. Thanks for the insight into how that is for the younger player. Being 42 yrs old, I'm the other way - its taken me a long time to get into the new fangled machines! (TAF and the like) with my younger partner.. but she's turning me around. :)

enjoy...

Ballywannabe
10th April 2008, 07:23 PM
Project Update:

Attached is an image showing why you really want to check over a machine before plugging it in. Some hack replaced the original power cord with a cut back extension lead (no real issue there). But, they couldn't solder for craps, so twisted the wires all over the originals which were cut back... and all the stray copper was only mm from the earth braiding :o

Hope you reattached the earth while you were at it!

cheers
Ian

AskJacob
11th April 2008, 08:40 AM
Oh yeah, I certainly did! I had to remove the earth to get it out far enough to work on (the filter is in a pretty tough spot to work on!).

AskJacob
11th April 2008, 09:16 AM
Restore Update:

So, now I have a few games under my belt, it's time to get back to looking closer at some outstanding items.

Firstly, I was wondering about the sound - there is a dipswitch on the MPU board that can be set to simple 'chimes' or 'melody'. As far as I can determine, this does nothing on my machine. This leads me to thinking that there are 2 possible issues... Most likely a stuffed dip switch from the corrosion, or it may be a buggered PIO.

I have a spare PIO so that will be the easiest to check. Problem is, as I haven't played a 100% working machine, I don't know which 'mode' the audio currently is.

Anyway, attached are some more pics of the work as it went along.

First pic is reworking the ball trough sides from under the apron (is there a proper name for these things? I want to call them rails but that seems silly).

The top one has been done already, bottom one still to go.

I did these by hand, using 240 then 400 wet&dry, with brasso as the 'wetting' agent as an experiment. This worked suprisingly well. The best part is when you finish with the wet&dry paper, you just buff up with a cloth and it looks pretty damn good. You get bloody black hands though! I'm hoping the polish component of the brasso will help prevent future corrosion/rust too.

The second pic is a tip I'm sure everyone already knows... I had a nice sized box I could screw all the bits into in the same layout as the table. This made sure I could track where all the different screws and posts went. Poor IJ downgraded to a bench for this restore :)

So, now my outstanding tasks for the machine are:

1 - Upper dead bumper is a generic star type cap is wrong should be a 'Deco' type with skull image.

2 - Spinner is wrong - it is from a Future Spa

3 - I need to get some 3" rubber rings (these were the only ones I didn't have handy)

4 - Some switch adjusting

5 - Missing Plastics: The small one above the saucer, the long thin one above the standup targets on the right, the curved one behind the cats/bats drop targets

6 - adjust drop targets so they are level with playfield

Some of these I can knock over this weekend. Others await financial support from the CFO, and then that agonising OS postal wait :)

I will be posting a pic of the backglass soon (still keep forgetting to take a pic) with some requests for advice on what to do with it.

I hope people like reading this stuff. Tough if you don't :p - I'll keep it up anyway. Kinda keeps me going on the one problem instead of jumping around all over the place (which is my usual habit)

Cheers

Cheers

Ballywannabe
11th April 2008, 09:29 AM
Glad you reattached the earth - now you see why the lazy former owner just twisted the wires on!

Good to see the progress you are making with your project. Bite the bullet and buy a set of bumper caps of PBR. Plastics come up on Ebay (US) every now and then, the one for the saucer is very hard to come by however.

The sound in 'chimes' mode sounds similar to the old EM chimes. 'Melody' makes a few (five or six) less than impressive electronic squawking noises. The SB100 is bitch of a board, with a lot of versions floating around. Some do not make the chime noise (look for a lot of components 'missing' off the board), but IIRC these boards make NO sounds if you select the chime mode on the MPU.

hope this helps...

Ian

AskJacob
11th April 2008, 09:57 AM
Yeah, I think my SB-100 won't have the chime mode, there are a lot of unpopulated components (and the holes aren't even drilled in the PCB). There is no U5 installed, so I just thought it was beacuse this is a 6 sound board, not a 10 sound. So most likely no chime stuff either.

Maybe I was a little off in my description - I was looking at switch 8 "melody option" which switches between melodies and 2 tones. This switch does not seem to change anything, it sounds the same either way (and yes, I changed it while the machine was off!)

All in all, nothing vital, just fiddling to see what the difference would be. Melody seems to be giving more credit than necessary, it is about 4 tones :)

Ahh, the saucer plastic. Yeah, I have seen many a person asking for one on the internet. This is a problem for me more than just the missing plastic. I hadn't mentioned it yet, but 2 of the screws that used to hold that plastic are snapped off just below the level of the PF :(. Still thinking how to tackle this problem. First check, no they don't go through the PF so I can't get them from below. At the moment, I'm thinking of using a dremel type tool to cut a slot so I can fit a fine screwdriver in the shaft and unscrew them, but the tiny size is daunting. Can't really drill it out as that would make a mess of the PF...

I'm definately getting a bumper cap set from PBR. It's just a matter of when...

rod71
11th April 2008, 11:44 AM
Maybe I was a little off in my description - I was looking at switch 8 "melody option" which switches between melodies and 2 tones. This switch does not seem to change anything, it sounds the same either way (and yes, I changed it while the machine was off!)

All in all, nothing vital, just fiddling to see what the difference would be. Melody seems to be giving more credit than necessary, it is about 4 tones :)



The melody option works something like this....

All it does is change the power up, add credit, start game and game over "tune"

If it's on, the tune will be 4 tones repeated twice very fast.

If it's off, it will just be the first 2 tones of the 4 tone sequence and that is it.

Pretty lame. The SB-100 was hardly a step ahead. I'd rather the 4 chimes from the Stern games from 77 - 78

Just out of interest. My Hot Hand uses the same board, and the game doesn't even use the "Advance Bonus" sound. It works in test but not in game play.

LOTR4U
11th April 2008, 12:49 PM
Restore Update:

So, now I have a few games under my belt, it's time to get back to looking closer at some outstanding items.

Firstly, I was wondering about the sound - there is a dipswitch on the MPU board that can be set to simple 'chimes' or 'melody'. As far as I can determine, this does nothing on my machine. This leads me to thinking that there are 2 possible issues... Most likely a stuffed dip switch from the corrosion, or it may be a buggered PIO.

I have a spare PIO so that will be the easiest to check. Problem is, as I haven't played a 100% working machine, I don't know which 'mode' the audio currently is.

Anyway, attached are some more pics of the work as it went along.

First pic is reworking the ball trough sides from under the apron (is there a proper name for these things? I want to call them rails but that seems silly).

The top one has been done already, bottom one still to go.

I did these by hand, using 240 then 400 wet&dry, with brasso as the 'wetting' agent as an experiment. This worked suprisingly well. The best part is when you finish with the wet&dry paper, you just buff up with a cloth and it looks pretty damn good. You get bloody black hands though! I'm hoping the polish component of the brasso will help prevent future corrosion/rust too.

The second pic is a tip I'm sure everyone already knows... I had a nice sized box I could screw all the bits into in the same layout as the table. This made sure I could track where all the different screws and posts went. Poor IJ downgraded to a bench for this restore :)

So, now my outstanding tasks for the machine are:

1 - Upper dead bumper is a generic star type cap is wrong should be a 'Deco' type with skull image.

2 - Spinner is wrong - it is from a Future Spa

3 - I need to get some 3" rubber rings (these were the only ones I didn't have handy)

4 - Some switch adjusting

5 - Missing Plastics: The small one above the saucer, the long thin one above the standup targets on the right, the curved one behind the cats/bats drop targets

6 - adjust drop targets so they are level with playfield

Some of these I can knock over this weekend. Others await financial support from the CFO, and then that agonising OS postal wait :)

I will be posting a pic of the backglass soon (still keep forgetting to take a pic) with some requests for advice on what to do with it.

I hope people like reading this stuff. Tough if you don't :p - I'll keep it up anyway. Kinda keeps me going on the one problem instead of jumping around all over the place (which is my usual habit)

Cheers

Cheers

I am going to the electroplaters on Monday :unsure do you need anything done?

cheers

AskJacob
11th April 2008, 05:23 PM
I am going to the electroplaters on Monday :unsure do you need anything done?

cheers

Thanks for the offer... I'd like to do some things but I don't know what prep work is necessary, and what the cost may be?

My one day job is my IJ wireforms.. they look pretty sad.

I'll certainly be in touch, I've seen some of your stuff done, and I'd like to pick yer brains...

AskJacob
27th April 2008, 12:17 PM
UPDATE to restore thread:

I have it pretty much under control now...

All I have left is some plastics to locate, and replace those darned bumper caps (I'll order them one day...)

A tip for removing the snapped of screws in the playfield:

I found a great diamond burr in my generic handheld hobby tool (was from Dick smith $29) which was perfect... It let me cut a slot into the top of the broken srew, so I could then gently back it out with a fine jewelers screwdriver. Impressed myself with that one! - didn't make a mark on the playfield...

PeterW
27th April 2008, 11:27 PM
(remember the awesome collection of old machines that used to be at the top of the Scenic Railway at Katoomba anyone?)
Oh yeah!!! I used to play there a lot back in 1981-82. There wasn't much else to do in the mountains at night! :)


It is a much more 'zen' experience than my other machines (which are more modern). I now know why it isn't fair to compare machines from different eras - they are completely different animals. The selection of shots is few and simple, but their execution requires precision and sequencing (something I am not so hot at yet :)). If you just want to bat the ball around and see what happens, hey that works too - it just is a different paced machine... All the mechanics have their own unique sound... a satisfying kerchunk from the drop targets, the rather startling whack of the flippers, and a very impressive replay knocker (I wonder why the moved from the cab to the backbox?)...
These are the things I love about my Stern Magic. The drop targets resetting is such a great sound! And I agree that the replay knocker is impressive. Mine is in the main cabinet on the right hand side you can really feel it when it goes off. Even though every game is free, I get such a kick out of that sound when it pops. :) These old Sterns are very tactile machines.

AskJacob
28th May 2008, 09:08 PM
Ok

An update on the machine...

I am learning inkscape for my plastic making exercise.... I have converted my paper cutouts into vectors. The long thin one still needs some work, but I don't think it's too bad for an hour into using the software.

Inkscape = simpler = less daunting than illustrator. Right price too! Glad this forum pointed it out to me.

Will tidy it up, and start the colour layers...

edit: the inline viewer (with the black border) does not show the png... but clicking on it shows it...

Cheers

AskJacob
30th May 2008, 04:49 PM
Plastic Progress

OK I have finished my first plastic graphics. It is the RHS sling, which I have one of, but it is in fair condition at best...

This is not a scan, this is a hand traced Inkscape image. Having some fun learning the tool - now I have the latest version!

Skybeaux
30th May 2008, 06:54 PM
Looking pretty good so far.:D

Railways
30th May 2008, 11:45 PM
AJ-Have you done that from scratch - if so well done !!!:041::041::041:

AskJacob
31st May 2008, 01:14 AM
AJ-Have you done that from scratch - if so well done !!!:041::041::041:

Weeellll I do have the real plastic for that one handy for reference, so 'from scratch' is pretty flexible in that regard :)

I did this one first as my source material was pretty good, so I could get up to speed with Inkscape. I've been raving to anyone who will listen how great I think it is - it has been the tool I've been waiting for really... I wanted to get to know it before I tackled the harder pieces.

Next up is the saucer piece, which I have very little reference material for (a few bad pics of whole playfields from the web is about it).

My aim is to have at least the saucer and a spinner decal set done by the end of the weekend....Wish me luck :)

AskJacob
1st June 2008, 04:24 PM
Spinner Decal is done.

I had a reference scan from a generous member here, but it was badly worn. I made some guesses of what was missing based on some grainy pics off the web...

Still plugging along...

AskJacob
2nd June 2008, 04:40 PM
OK a day behind my plans, but here is a draft version of the saucer piece.

Needs some work to make it look more liek the original. This I had very little reference for - even though it is a relativelly simple piece :p

The ever elusive saucer piece starts to take shape....

ugh can't upload images... maybe a work thing? I'll try from home later

Strangeways
10th June 2008, 02:37 PM
Looking Great ! - How about an update :unsure

I love resto threads on these underrated machines...

AskJacob
10th June 2008, 02:51 PM
Heh yeah, an update coming when my disgust in losing some art without saving dies down :rolleyes

Spent a good chunk of time working on it this past weekend.

Will put up something soon :)

Wotto
10th June 2008, 02:59 PM
(remember the awesome collection of old machines that used to be at the top of the Scenic Railway at Katoomba anyone?)


Oh YEP- I remember that place SO WELL...we got kicked out because we discovered that we could lift up an old Gottlieb Roller Coaster and drop it and it would start a game.....we would drop it and the old thing would "clinkety chink" into action , only thing we didnt think was that the 'gift store' was directly under us and that machine was bangin on those old wooden floors.....must have sounded like an atomic bomb down there !!! we were soon dragged out by the ears.

Was there about 3 years ago and he still had the ORIGINAL KISS machine there !! He has owned it from day one ( and its crappy ) but now-a-days it is in his sons house.

Back to your Dracula.....

FANTASTIC restore job so far, I used to play that as a kid too and remember it fondly.
The artwork for your spinner/ plastics look pretty good , have you made a plastic yet?
Wondering how you plan to do that?
I made a plastic for Black Knight once - turned out quite OK - need help - PM me.


Wotto

AskJacob
10th June 2008, 03:12 PM
Was there about 3 years ago and he still had the ORIGINAL KISS machine there !! He has owned it from day one ( and its crappy ) but now-a-days it is in his sons house.


Yeah - that KISS is what made me wonder why they are so expensive:badgrin

Dissapointed to have made the journey there a year or so ago to find nothing but a sterile tourist centre...



Back to your Dracula.....

FANTASTIC restore job so far, I used to play that as a kid too and remember it fondly.
The artwork for your spinner/ plastics look pretty good , have you made a plastic yet?
Wondering how you plan to do that?
I made a plastic for Black Knight once - turned out quite OK - need help - PM me.

Wotto

Haven't made any yet, although I do have the plastic at hand.

Artwork for the saucer piece has been tidied up, and made a bit more 'hand drawn' to match the other plastics.

Plans involve reverse printing onto clear adhesive, with a white backspray of paint as a source of white and diffuser.

Just need to find a reasonable source of laser compatible adhesive film. So far found a 40 pack that was nearly $65. I probably need 5 sheets at most, allowing for stuffups!

Obviously not a permanent solution, but one within my budget :)

AskJacob
10th June 2008, 06:23 PM
Ok, so I'm getting back in the saddle after having imagescape just go blip and dissapear on me. No error, nothing. The file I was working on went kaput too.

Now, I'm back to where I was yesterday afternoon :)

Here is the missing drop target plastic. Ignore the 'bleeds' outside the outlines... yes I can colour inside the lines:badgrin but I'm making the graphics with block colours so they are suitable for screen printing if that ever becomes possible...

Getting there... One more plastic to go - then I have to make 'em :rolleyes

---

note: there are transparent colours, so it looks goofy with the black background... click on it again to view it with a white background...

Ballywannabe
10th June 2008, 07:20 PM
Nice work! It will be interesting to see how your final product looks.

cheers
Ian

AskJacob
12th June 2008, 11:28 AM
http://www.aussiearcade.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=562

There are some closeup pics of my PF, with the "mylar" still on it. I picked what should be high wear areas, especially where the PF is white...

No ball swirl evident. Dust yes - as I didn't clean it before the pics...

The usual grain direction paint cracks though.. but reasonable I think....

Skybeaux
12th June 2008, 07:29 PM
From those few pics it looks in pretty decent shape.
I had one once and the playfield was horrible ,mylar on top of wear on top of mylar:lol

What's it like near the top flippers targets ?
Usually always wears around there.

AskJacob
13th June 2008, 12:07 AM
From those few pics it looks in pretty decent shape.
I had one once and the playfield was horrible ,mylar on top of wear on top of mylar:lol

What's it like near the top flippers targets ?
Usually always wears around there.

Ah you got me :) well - not really. The mylar has a small split on one insert, but no PF damage from memory. I'll look closer tomorrow... but that area is pretty good I think.

Looks like I'm lucky with this machine... saved it from being under a tarp at a mechanics workshop. Apparently hadn't been turned on in 9 years when I got it. By the look of it I hadn't been turned on too much at all.

Now I'm really thinking hard about getting the mylar off...

I'll plan to do that when I have IJ finished...

AskJacob
15th June 2008, 06:59 PM
Ah nice to get to a stage where there is something tangible from my work.

Some mockup slings made up, for a few reasons:

1 - to test some adhesives out to bond the artwork to the acrylic
2 - to see if laser on paper works backlit
3 - to check the colour change that happens with the plastic

Now it is a good feeling to see I have some options for making the plastics, with varying degrees of cost and quality:D

These were the simplest and quickest method today....

Method:

Full colour A4 laser print on a Xerox machine
Regular A4 100gsm paper
Bond 1 - Modified PVA for foam ($4.00 for 125 ml)
Bond 2 - Clear acrylic glass paint ($12.60 for 50 ml)
Cost: $1.50 to $2.00 per A4 sized piece + Acrylic sheet

Result:

Bond 1 and 2 indestinguishable from each other. Bond 1 took longer to dry.
Both have a really good adhesion to the acrylic plastic.

Plastics look very good unlit.
Plastics look rather poor backlit; the paper grain shows through (I was expecting this!)

Conclusion:

Cheap and fine for unlit plastics.
Bonding to acrylic sheet lightens the colours slightly. The camera flash exaggerates this.

Next Up:

Same method but with a special backlit 'photo paper' - which is actually 100 mil white plastic sheet.

I will also be trying out some other stuff (like reverse SAV printing) but this is stuff I can do right now:D
---
[The original sling is on the right]
Cheers

Strangeways
15th June 2008, 08:38 PM
Very impressive, mate. Thanks for adding the details and keep us posted with the results. I need to apply a technique to making a full set of Volley plastics.

Great work :D

Ballywannabe
16th June 2008, 09:45 PM
What I have done is reverse print on adhesive clear with an inkjet printer. This is then stuck on the underside of the plastic (as per original artwork). I then cover this with white translucent contact, which makes the artwork look OK when backlit. If all goes to plan it looks close to original. If things don't work out so good (some colours are hard to get right) it still looks acceptable.

cheers
Ian

Strangeways
16th June 2008, 10:23 PM
What I have done is reverse print on adhesive clear with an inkjet printer. This is then stuck on the underside of the plastic (as per original artwork). I then cover this with white translucent contact, which makes the artwork look OK when backlit. If all goes to plan it looks close to original. If things don't work out so good (some colours are hard to get right) it still looks acceptable.

cheers
Ian

Ian - I did EXACTLY the same thing for one plastic on my Meteor - the commonly broken one around the spot target near the spinner.. Spewing I sold that game, classicplayfields are making a repro set..:cry

AskJacob
17th June 2008, 09:19 AM
What I have done is reverse print on adhesive clear with an inkjet printer. This is then stuck on the underside of the plastic (as per original artwork). I then cover this with white translucent contact, which makes the artwork look OK when backlit. If all goes to plan it looks close to original. If things don't work out so good (some colours are hard to get right) it still looks acceptable.

cheers
Ian

Yep, that is from what I can tell anyway referred to in the sign industry as "reverse print self adhesive vinyl" or reverse SAV - the home edition.

This is something I have done with inkjets before. Instead of the white contact, I spraypainted the back of the sticker white.

Does look pretty good, but the colours faded rather too quickly for my liking. Therefore my trials with colour laser as the pigments are supposed to be much more stable.

My only problem is finding a clear SAV that is laser compatible...

Ballywannabe
17th June 2008, 07:04 PM
Ian - I did EXACTLY the same thing for one plastic on my Meteor - the commonly broken one around the spot target near the spinner.. Spewing I sold that game, classicplayfields are making a repro set..:cry

Yeah - I have a 'perfect' plastic set for my current Meteor, but have made around three of that kidney shaped plastic for earlier machines I have owned or repaired. Has no backlight so they look quite good.

Surprised CP are making plastics for this game - that is good news.

I will always have a Meteor, being a Stern fanatic!

cheers
Ian

Strangeways
17th June 2008, 07:45 PM
Yeah - I have a 'perfect' plastic set for my current Meteor, but have made around three of that kidney shaped plastic for earlier machines I have owned or repaired. Has no backlight so they look quite good.

Surprised CP are making plastics for this game - that is good news.

I will always have a Meteor, being a Stern fanatic!

cheers
Ian

There's a lot move love for Classic Sterns these days... I have a Flight 2000 with a repro Backglass and Plastics set. All I need is the repro playfield (this year) and I'll start it !

PeterW
17th June 2008, 08:36 PM
There's a lot move love for Classic Sterns these days... I have a Flight 2000 with a repro Backglass and Plastics set. All I need is the repro playfield (this year) and I'll start it !
I just checked Flight 2000 out on IPDB as I hadn't seen it before. Apparently this was Stern's first talking machine and it was also multiball. Impressive for 1980.

I hadn't noticed before either that the Stern logo changed around this time from the freehand style to the same logo that the modern day Stern Pinball uses.

Strangeways
17th June 2008, 10:15 PM
Yes - A really nice pin. I was lucky enough to trace down a NOS VSU-100 speech board. Very hard to find..

PeterW
17th June 2008, 10:51 PM
Yes - A really nice pin. I was lucky enough to trace down a NOS VSU-100 speech board. Very hard to find..
I'd love to see some pics when you get to work on this one.

I noticed that Stern also produced a twin-level playfield machine in the early 80's. Does anyone know if they were first to do so?

AskJacob
19th June 2008, 03:35 PM
A quick question:

What size ball goes in the 'roll tilt' mechanism?

I know it doesn't really matter for a home machine, but :unsure the assembly is there, so I'd like to use it :)

It certainly isn't a 1-1/16"....

Cheers

mjdoz
19th June 2008, 03:41 PM
A quick question:

What size ball goes in the 'roll tilt' mechanism?

I know it doesn't really matter for a home machine, but :unsure the assembly is there, so I'd like to use it :)

It certainly isn't a 1-1/16"....

Cheers

My Bally SS and Gottlieb EM both use 1"

From memory a 1 1/16 ball will not fit in the "U" tube (sorry it is more of a "C" tube)

Michael

AskJacob
19th June 2008, 04:07 PM
Thanks for that.

So I'll keep an eye out for a 1" ball. No hurry there - not something I need to make a specific order for :)

Cheer

AskJacob
26th June 2008, 06:26 PM
Finally got some more plastic artwork completed...

A failing mouse which sometimes double clicks when it should single (driving me nuts because that autocloses a path in inkscape) is my latest excuse for crankiness:rolleyes

So, only the left sling to go, and then to print!

Left sling is the hardest one BTW - lots of line work involved...

Cheers!

AskJacob
3rd July 2008, 12:45 AM
Don't try to do too much inkscaping with a laptop touchpad... My hands are pretty cramped up:rolleyes

Got a bit of progress on the left sling. Lots of line work. Lots of work to ensure the hand drawn quality remains...

Something to do while the footy was on.

Just a snapshot to show how I'm going. Colouring is the easy part!

Again, background is transparent so with the black background you won't see it - click on it again to see it in a new window...

Cheers
Jacob

Strangeways
3rd July 2008, 08:24 AM
Jacob - are you doing all the plastics ?

AskJacob
3rd July 2008, 08:46 AM
Heh, not quite - it seems like it though!

I am tempted to do them all though, so I have a digital backup. I'll see how I go though, as the remaining plastics are quite large...

So far I am only doing the ones I'm missing which are the left sling, the drop target piece, the standup piece and the saucer piece.

I have also done the droptargets a decals, and the spinner as decals.

I did the right sling even though I have it, as a learning exercise and to get the process colours right...The other plastics remaining (whhich I have) are the left drop targets, left arch piece and right arch piece.

Cheers

Ballywannabe
3rd July 2008, 09:30 AM
You watch - as soon as you finish a cheap set will come up on Epay:D

Seriously though, great work Jacob. I have not got the skills or patience to undertake such a project.

cheers
Ian

AskJacob
3rd July 2008, 10:04 AM
I have not got the skills or patience to undertake such a project.


Me either :D

But I enjoy having a crack. Learnt a bit and can find my way around the software a bit better.

Still no luck on the patience part though:rolleyes - I just find doing chunks of it at a time helps...

Pash
3rd July 2008, 06:52 PM
Can see that you've only got the head to do on the snake and the scales where you've got the black on the body and its finished. Its spot on so far mate, you've done a great job.

Take your time and keep at it, the results are definitely worth the effort you are putting in Jacob.

Victor

AskJacob
10th July 2008, 11:25 AM
All done - well, the artwork anyway :)

I'll be printing these off and see how they go with a few methods of repro...

Not that these parts would ever be mistaken for the real deal, but I also included in small text "repro" next to the part numbers.

Man this sling was fiddly. all those scales!

-----------------------------

An interesting note:

I noticed a few flaws in the art on the originals. I made sure I tried to keep them as they are part of the machine. This actually takes more time, as it really is more work to make it not look so computer generated...

As a bit of fun, I tried some of the auto tracing options. While they made passable versions suitable for say large scale printing, they were completely not good enough (for my standards:p) for making new plastics - I couldn't even see an easy way to 'clean them up' and make them suitable.

------------------------------

Oh, and to those waiting for part 2 of the IJ PoA mod - it is still coming. Just need a solid block of time at home...

Cheers
Jacob

candyflip
10th July 2008, 12:17 PM
May we have a photo update of the entire machine (or maybe just the playfield with plastics?), with whatever is currently attached and ready?

I want to see the whole thing.... love this machine. :)

thanks

AskJacob
10th July 2008, 12:28 PM
That is a good point - I don't have any pics of machine overall as it stands now...

So I'll do so!

Cheers

illawarra_steelers
10th July 2008, 12:56 PM
Jacob,

Well done - shows patience is the key. Keep the posts coming have enjoyed reading your work.

Game is looking excellent and has been stated most of these Stern pins are real 'sleepers' - not as popular as the Bally's from the same era but I know what I played when they were on location.

Cheers

Tony

Strangeways
10th July 2008, 01:06 PM
That is a good point - I don't have any pics of machine overall as it stands now...

So I'll do so!

Cheers

Not acceptable... :badgrin

Wheres the pictures...:)

Looking forward to your progress on this project.

AskJacob
10th July 2008, 01:51 PM
http://s219.photobucket.com/albums/cc5/askjacob/Stern%20Dracula/

I just uploaded all the pics I have at the moment.

They kinda don't have a huge amount of value on their own, but I did add descriptions to them a while ago when I first went to upload them, only to have the upload fail:x - so this time, just the pics!

Cheers

AskJacob
11th July 2008, 03:47 PM
It isn't much but I am pretty pissed off by the charges added onto my digital print job.

I get online, so I can look on the charges. Hmmm full colour, A4 print = $1.30... fair enough. Special paper = $1.25 OK that is fine too.

So you would think $2.55 a page right?

So did I. Well, to submit it online, not only did I need to register and hand these buggers an open credit card (can't do a 1 off payment), but they wanted to charge me a $3 data charge per file to upload!

Bugger that I say, they are just up the road.

Yesterday arvo I put in my order - they were busy so I said no problems I can pick it up today.

Here is how the bill came for my 2 pages:

USBDLOAD $5.25 [yay, they CHARGE TO PRINT FROM A USB KEY!]
15MBPERMB $0.50 [AND THEN THEY ALSO CHARGE AN ADDIONAL for an extra file - my order was 2 pages, in 2 pdfs, 1 pager per pdf]
DIGITAL COLOUR A4 1SIDE $2.60 [ok this is the $1.30 per page colour charge]
PERMANENT PAPER A4 $2.50 [ok this is the $1.25 per page paper charge]

total was $11.05, which while not a momentous amount, is FAR more than the $5.10 I was expecting.

All the other charges are a complete bloody farce, and cost more than the print job. More importantly, NONE were mentioned when placing my order.

I will be sending their head office a letter letting them know my disappointment about their service with regards to not being up front with the charges...

--------

On the flipside - the prints look ... well... OK I guess. To be honest they seem a bit lower resolution than the prints I have been doing myself, but the "paper" I printed it on... wow!

The paper is called "Permanent Paper 100 micron" and is an untearable plastic sheet (not paper) and looks bloody good backlit. Best news is they will let me buy it from them at $1.50 a sheet.. not exactly cheap but then again I can't find it anywhere else...

It looks like the colour match is off - they use a different printer to the one I had 'calibrated' my prints to.

Untill I get home, I can't tell - nor can I tell if they came out the exact size...

Cheers!

-------

added dodgy cameraphone pic of the prints

AskJacob
12th July 2008, 12:28 AM
well scratch that effort.

Colours not right - no real surprise there.

They resized the bloody print though.

NO GOOD!

Now I will need to find another way...

LOTR4U
12th July 2008, 10:18 AM
Nice try, printing is hard. :cry

Strangeways
12th July 2008, 10:35 AM
well scratch that effort.

Colours not right - no real surprise there.

They resized the bloody print though.

NO GOOD!

Now I will need to find another way...


Mate - I've been down this track before - keep persevering, you would already have spend hours on this already. Color matching is the worst bloody part of the hobby !

AskJacob
13th July 2008, 11:16 AM
Yeah, thanks guys.

Posted that just after checking it out when I got home - and was pretty cranky.

What I meant was that because officeworks employ anyone in their printing section, nothing is under any kind of quality control.

Terms like ICC colour profiles, colour matching, consistency or even "do not modify or rescale print" mean nothing to them.

I had no worries at all regarding the colour matching, I have been down that road before. What I cannot accept is the indescriminate resizing of print runs, even though I left more than generous borders on my print jobs. All those little extra charges I would even swallow if they even had a modicum of professionality with handling print jobs...

So, for now I will bring it 'back in house'. Easy for me to manage.

I know that in the long term I need to get these digitally printed externally. But once that happens it will greatly increase turn around times: a test sheet (for matching) - a proof run, then a final run. All will take time and $$$ :)

Oh, and does anyone have a set of pantone colourchips they want to offload?

There was no way I was going to dump the work I had done so far:D I hate to think how long it really took - I assume much longer than the original artist:lol

Cheers guys, and it ain't over...

Pash
13th July 2008, 03:31 PM
Been looking at getting my hands on the pantone stuff myself. If you are after them to get the colours right on screen then you need the pantone 4 colour process ones. From what i've read that seems to be whats needed, for paint mixing the pantone solid coated is appartenly used. I've looked on ebay and only the latest ones are available but i don't feel like paying a couple of hundred dollars to get them. Doesn't seem to be any old versions available on ebay at the moment.

Congrats on doing a good job so far Jacob. If only somebody was silk screening plastics. Don't know if it would be easy for the backyarder to do or not. I've done a little bit of reading on the subject but not much so I really couldn't say at the moment. But I think getting hold of the pantone stuff is the first step to make life a bit easier.

Good luck with it all mate.

illawarra_steelers
9th August 2008, 07:23 PM
Set of nice playfield plastics just listed on eBay - says US shipping only but if you email the seller you might find that they will ship to Australia

http://cgi.ebay.com/pinball-plastic-set-Stern-Dracula-used_W0QQitemZ290251971418QQihZ019QQcategoryZ13727 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

AskJacob
9th August 2008, 07:30 PM
Hey nice, thanks for that. Still missing the saucer piece I see :D

I wonder which piece is broken?

Cheers
Jacob

Pash
10th August 2008, 02:01 AM
Hard to say which piece is broken there Jacob. They may have glued it back together or have it sitting together for the photo. Though the piece with dracula on it looks like it might be missing a few mm off the end where his finger is, the flame looks a bit shorter compared to the one I have here. Bit hard to say for sure given the size of the picture, shoot them an email and query them if you're interested. It would certainly help out your plastics issue.

AskJacob
12th August 2008, 12:18 PM
Hi again, time for a small update:

I decided to pass up that auction as it only had 1 plastic of the three I needed, the saucer was missing and the standup plastic with the panther was broken.

So good luck to the american who got them, I think they went for a pretty good price.

On Friday I finally got a new set of prints done. I didn't get a chance until Sunday evening to stick them to the plastic.

Now as the new prints are on plastic too, I need to wait a good while while the adhesive sets, as the air only has a small area to escape.

A check last night found the adhesive still soft. I think I may need to wait until this weekend before I head out to the bandsaw and cut them up.

I'll put up some pictures soon showing the progress!

Cheers
Jacob

AskJacob
16th August 2008, 12:18 PM
Another week, another bomb out...

Here you see the closest I am yet:

Problems:

- Adhesive takes too long to dry = bubbles as it outgasses during drying
- Cutting delaminated the print from the plastic
- I got impatient and broke the plastic while drilling

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc5/askjacob/DSC03281.jpg

Here is a link if the image isn't working: http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc5/askjacob/DSC03281.jpg

Oh well, time to try a different approach... Time to think about it a bit more...

Obviously plastic film does not behave like paper!

Cheers
Jacob

Pash
16th August 2008, 02:59 PM
G'day Jacob

The picture isn't showing up mate.

AskJacob
16th August 2008, 03:11 PM
Weird. I added a link just in case!

Thanks
Jacob

Pash
16th August 2008, 05:13 PM
Working well now mate. Doesn't look too bad, you are definitely getting closer to getting the process worked out.

I'm guessing that to screenprint these would be too troublesome given the small run that needs doing. I don't know what would be involved in screenprinting though sometimes it seems that it would be the easier option to get things right. As long as the setup wasn't too involved I suppose.

Just out of interest did you try it in position to see how the lighting would look through it, if it looked spot on then that might help out on the thinking of the best way.

AskJacob
17th September 2008, 05:11 PM
Some progress in the last week or so:

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc5/askjacob/Stern%20Dracula/DSC03432.jpg

Damn old acrylic - the paper has almost fused to the plastic and will only peel in little pieces - so ignore how untidy that looks on the plastic!

Looks like I may have this one beat - finally!

Need some time on the bandsaw to cut some more pieces to finish my testing.

It shouldn't be too hard to reproduce yourself if you need to either. Will update again soon with my results...

Cheers

Jacob

pinball god
19th September 2008, 03:23 PM
Yeah, thanks guys.

Posted that just after checking it out when I got home - and was pretty cranky.

What I meant was that because officeworks employ anyone in their printing section, nothing is under any kind of quality control.

Terms like ICC colour profiles, colour matching, consistency or even "do not modify or rescale print" mean nothing to them.

I had no worries at all regarding the colour matching, I have been down that road before. What I cannot accept is the indescriminate resizing of print runs, even though I left more than generous borders on my print jobs. All those little extra charges I would even swallow if they even had a modicum of professionality with handling print jobs...

So, for now I will bring it 'back in house'. Easy for me to manage.

I know that in the long term I need to get these digitally printed externally. But once that happens it will greatly increase turn around times: a test sheet (for matching) - a proof run, then a final run. All will take time and $$$ :)

Oh, and does anyone have a set of pantone colourchips they want to offload?

There was no way I was going to dump the work I had done so far:D I hate to think how long it really took - I assume much longer than the original artist:lol

Cheers guys, and it ain't over...I wish I knew you were going to officeworks cuz they did the same to me. They have there machine set to size to fit the transperancy. The unfortunate thing for me was that I had enough pix to optimize the page size (nearly!!!). So When I got home, I found the pix were about 5-10% larger which I didn't spot at the shop.

Looks pretty good. What is the print made from, transperancy or paper sticker or something else? IF it was a transperancy, did you spray the back white to bring out the colour?

I'd be interested to see how it pans out after cutting as I usually cut the plastic and then apply the decal, then trim if need be. Must admit I had heaps of probs with clear transperancies and glue. I could never get rid of the air bubble/cracking effect. How did you solve it if applicable.

Some progress in the last week or so:

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc5/askjacob/Stern%20Dracula/DSC03432.jpg

Damn old acrylic - the paper has almost fused to the plastic and will only peel in little pieces - so ignore how untidy that looks on the plastic!

Looks like I may have this one beat - finally!

Need some time on the bandsaw to cut some more pieces to finish my testing.

It shouldn't be too hard to reproduce yourself if you need to either. Will update again soon with my results...

Cheers

Jacob

AskJacob
4th November 2008, 09:42 AM
Ok, it's been a long time between posts.

I have the process sorted which seems good for 1-offs, but if I were a bootlegger it would be an insane way to try and make plastics. Again, these are not perfect, but a damn site better than missing or broken plastics.

A few guys here were missing some parts from their Dracs, and helped me out. If you can get back to me on what parts you needed, I'll make them up for you too. The parts I can make are: the saucer cover, the drop target cover (with the cougar on it) the long thin standup cover, the left and right slings, spinner decals and drop target decals.

This is NON COMMERCIAL so you need to own the machine, and I am not charging anything for these, so please only ask for what you need.

Alternatively, I have the artwork in .SVG vector format, PM me and I will send you a copy.

Cheers
Jacob

AskJacob
1st January 2009, 10:43 PM
Finally...

So close I can play it :D

New bumper caps on, new glass about to slide in, and all I need to do is print out new rule sheets.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc5/askjacob/DSC03708.jpg

Cheers
Jacob

Fish Tales
1st January 2009, 11:01 PM
thats bloody nice, a credit to you!

Ballywannabe
1st January 2009, 11:20 PM
Sweet Jacob! Not a bad game to play either, but it is let down by its sounds and its sloooooow CPU (sometimes you wonder if the target bank is EVER going to reset!!).

Hope it goes as good as it looks:cool:

cheers
Ian

judgeboz
1st January 2009, 11:32 PM
looks very nice Jacob - love those new bumper caps. I assume you painted the 3 posts around the eject hole. Just curious if there is anything you can do about the wear in the ball shooter lane?

AskJacob
2nd January 2009, 11:39 AM
Sweet Jacob! Not a bad game to play either, but it is let down by its sounds and its sloooooow CPU (sometimes you wonder if the target bank is EVER going to reset!!).

Hope it goes as good as it looks:cool:

cheers
Ian

Yeah after playing it quite a bit I have that figured out - the MPU isn't really slow, it is how they tried to emulate the EM machines - the target banks wont reset untill the currently queued score and score sounds are completed. Funny that they went to the effort to ensure players can see their 500 point target count up 100 x 5 times. IIRC I read somewhere that during the transition from EM to SS they did that as they were worried players wouldn't trust the machine is really giving them their proper scores :lol


looks very nice Jacob - love those new bumper caps. I assume you painted the 3 posts around the eject hole. Just curious if there is anything you can do about the wear in the ball shooter lane?

Yeah, that picture really highlighted the wear :(

I will do something, I need to pull the PF out and remove the contact/faux mylar at some point, but right now I am enjoying playing too much :D

I want to be at bit minimal with any PF restoration though (although as far as I can tell all the paint is intact 100%) so clearcoating is not likely - I'm worried it will be too shiny and change the leisurely game play...

Oh yeah, those new caps absolutely POP out the machine, it is so much brighter, even when unplugged.

Cheers
Jacob

Emohawk
2nd January 2009, 12:07 PM
That is some nice work there mate well done..

Ballywannabe
2nd January 2009, 06:13 PM
Y

Oh yeah, those new caps absolutely POP out the machine, it is so much brighter, even when unplugged.

Cheers
Jacob

When I had that machine I found that you could not get the left hand skull cap to line up with the others due to the lack of room to spin the mech to the right position - very annoying:x

AskJacob
2nd January 2009, 06:30 PM
When I had that machine I found that you could not get the left hand skull cap to line up with the others due to the lack of room to spin the mech to the right position - very annoying:x

Haha yeah, that's true, but it was like that from the factory. The Drac sure does seem to be a "quick out the door" machine - especially comapared to the Magic I am now fiddling with...

Cheers
Jacob