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Roxbury
6th February 2008, 10:46 PM
I have a Hankin cocktail which is in fair/rough condition, but I want to make it very good, and make it more original where possible. The idea is to get this out of the shed and into the lounge :)

At some stage someone has resprayed it and done a very poor job in some areas.

Here is a list of things I need to do/ achieve:

- Convert from 2P on one side to 1P either side
- Fix vertical deflection monitor problem (I reckon a new Jomac chassis will make it like new!!)
- Massively clean up
- Repaint
- Remove panel from where coinbox has been removed and find a coinbox
- Re-wire (the way the wiring has been done can't be easily changed to 1P per side - will install new harness).
- Locate an original Hankin glass top, or get a nice new glass top made if I can't get find one for ages
- Reconnect the fan (and maybe get a replacement fan??)

Here are some pics:

From this angle it looks fairly good
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/FrontCP.jpg

Looks a bit crappy from here though
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Door_Large_Gap_Loose_Lock.JPG

Look closely, it seems to have alignment problems??
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Lid_Gap_With_Lock_Hinge_Up.JPG

Its filthy inside
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Inside.jpg

Heres where the coinbox was removed and replaced with a wooden panel (dried glue everywhere)
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/coin_box_panel_to_remove.JPG

So after gutting the cabinet (taking plenty of Pics, and noting which screws go where, what wires connect to where etc) time to remove the panel where the coin box goes. Start with drilling holes as using a saw was too hard!! :lol I then knocked the panel out.
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/panel_removal_drill_holes.JPG

Now with a chisel I removed the rest - part of the way
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/part_panel_removed.JPG

All gone now
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Cashbox_panel_glue_removed.JPG

Here is a cash box I located. Its a good fit, I will need to do something to fit a strip of wood underneath the cashbox as you can see!
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Cashbox_in_panel.JPG

DKong
6th February 2008, 10:57 PM
Is that the one from up north?;)
Good score on getting the coinbox.
I had the same monitor chassis originally in one of my LAI cocktails, they are pretty ancient, its a wonder the flyback hasn't died yet(metal box). Defiantly get a new chassis from Joey.
I was wondering where you can get the 240v (?) replacement fans, the one in my cocktail is so loud and I need to replace it also.
Are you going for a MAME or 48 in 1?

Savage
6th February 2008, 10:57 PM
Nice

I recently restored my Hankin, Love the looks of these...
Can you get any more coin boxes, mines is missing one and can't find any anywhere :(

Roxbury
6th February 2008, 11:16 PM
Is that the one from up north?;)
Good score on getting the coinbox.
I had the same monitor chassis originally in one of my LAI cocktails, they are pretty ancient, its a wonder the flyback hasn't died yet(metal box). Defiantly get a new chassis from Joey.
I was wondering where you can get the 240v (?) replacement fans, the one in my cocktail is so loud and I need to replace it also.
Are you going for a MAME or 48 in 1?

Yeah its the one from up North. I reckon I will definately get a new chassis. They are very expensive, but maybe something like this will be a suitable fan replacement! DSE Fan (http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/47a9a41606b98da0273fc0a87f9c074e/Product/View/Y8490)

Definately 48 in 1 rather than Mame, I want to still be able to put PCBs in as well!!



Nice.
I recently restored my Hankin, Love the looks of these...
Can you get any more coin boxes, mines is missing one and can't find any anywhere :(

I might be able to get a coin box, I probably won't know for sure for a couple of months, the guy I got it from is a nice guy but very slow. I will need to hassle him again soon for some more parts.

PS Are you able to edit your post to get rid of my pics showing up in the quote again?? Cheers!!:lol

DKong
6th February 2008, 11:21 PM
They are very expensive, but maybe something like this will be a suitable fan replacement! DSE Fan (http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/47a9a41606b98da0273fc0a87f9c074e/Product/View/Y8490)



Cheers thats what I need, but your right $39 is expensive:o Good idea to go with the 48 in 1, it will keep it more original.

narf_
7th February 2008, 12:10 AM
ive got a 110v fan here out of a machine if you want original

actually ive got about 20 or so at a mates house out of machines

Davefjedi
7th February 2008, 07:40 AM
PM me ur addy Ill send you up 6 new caps for the ends of the legs ;)
and the large pop rivets used for the side grills(save you buying a whole packet of them just to use a couple)

jyebow
7th February 2008, 10:55 AM
Is that the one from up north?;)
Good score on getting the coinbox.
I had the same monitor chassis originally in one of my LAI cocktails, they are pretty ancient, its a wonder the flyback hasn't died yet(metal box). Defiantly get a new chassis from Joey.
I was wondering where you can get the 240v (?) replacement fans, the one in my cocktail is so loud and I need to replace it also.
Are you going for a MAME or 48 in 1?

Have you tried Jaycar ? they have 240V fans & are cheaper than DSE.http://www.jaycar.com.au/productResults.asp?whichpage=2&pagesize=10&keywords=&CATID=45&SUBCATID=725&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&SPECIAL=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=
cheers Steve.

Roxbury
7th February 2008, 11:11 PM
Added a strip of MDF to along the bottom where the cashbox goes. Nailed and glued it in, and it went a bit wobbly. I need to sand a bit off it as well to make it flush.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Hatch_Bent_Replace.JPG

I put some bog along the strip, sanded it back. It looks heaps better. Not perfectly straight, but good enough I reckon.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Hatch_piece_sanded.JPG

The speaker grill has a heap of rust on it on one side. It also looks as if it was sprayed when there was a heap of rust on it as well. Sanding it back worked well, but rust has formed in the holes a bit as well. Call me crazy, but using a little handheld drill tool with patience I can remove the rust from inside the holes.

what_the
8th February 2008, 07:01 AM
Call me crazy, but using a little handheld drill tool with patience I can remove the rust from inside the holes.

I don't call that crazy, that's doing the job properly. Great to see you taking the time to restore it. I would kill for one of these hankins.

Unfortunately the days of finding a bargain to restore are long gone around my way.

Keep up the pics , love to see how it turns out.

Davefjedi
8th February 2008, 07:20 AM
Mate I used a wad of steel wool to clean the grills it works a treat

IMPURE
8th February 2008, 07:55 AM
i was lazy and got mine sand blasted and powdercoated :)

Roxbury
8th February 2008, 08:59 AM
Mate I used a wad of steel wool to clean the grills it works a treat

Yeah I tried that and a wire brush on an angle grinder. Problem was it wouldn't get inside the holes. The surface is good though. Whoever sprayed this before sprayed over the rust. About a third of the holes have a small amount of rust inside which will show when painted.

Roxbury
8th February 2008, 10:06 PM
Whoever converted the cab from 1P per side to 2P on one side did a real hack job on the control panel. The control panel you see is ruined. I will find an original one to replace it (or both maybe??)
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/wrecked_cp2.JPG

The fitting of the parts of the cab here aren't flush, so with some glue I will attempt to straighten things up.
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Clamps.JPG

The front panel has plenty of dings. This is before I put some bog on it and sanded it down further.
Front_panel_sanded.JPG
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Front_panel_sanded.JPG

DKong
9th February 2008, 01:02 PM
That CP looks like Swiss Cheese:o Wonder how easy it will be to source a couple of Hankin CP's:unsure

That cab is going to be so smooth (and clean) , maybe better than new!

Davefjedi
9th February 2008, 01:07 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=290204750628&ssPageName=STRK:MEBI:IT&ih=019
I only want 2 of these

GameDude
9th February 2008, 04:38 PM
For the CP holes you can weld plates back in then grind it flat, you will never know when the new overlay is applied or painted.

Davefjedi
9th February 2008, 04:49 PM
For the CP holes you can weld plates back in then grind it flat, you will never know when the new overlay is applied or painted.

LOL Dorian if you CBF doing that

Roxbury
9th February 2008, 05:51 PM
Time for spraypainting. I have never spraypainted before, or used a compressor. I am very nervous about this.

I turned my carport into a spraytent with tarpaulins and gaffer tape. This may seem like a good idea, but it took AGES to set everything up. Next time I might see if I can get hold of a cheap marquee thing (~<$100) that is quick to set up. You can see I have the cab all masked up.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Sprayroom1.JPG

Here is my compressor, a Black Ridge from Supercheap. At this very moment (9th Feb 2008) they have a special where you get the compressor and an air nailer/ stapler kit for $179 - Normally if you buy these it will cost double.
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Compressor.JPG

Here is my cab after undercoating. In hindsight I should have put on 4 coats rather than 2, as little marks that I couldn't see came through after applying the top coats.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Undercoat2.JPG

After giving it a sand with 400 grit then 1200grit, on to the top coat.

I did 3 or 4 coats (can't remember now???) Here are some pics of the end result:

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Cab_Sprayed.JPG

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Front_Door.JPG

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Coinbox.JPG

Now it looks heaps better than before, but it doesn't exactly compare to the work of Spacies. I should be pleased though, it is only my first go! My main criticisms are in some spots, looking at certain angles you can see a couple of "dull" patches. Also looking real close, in some areas you can see where I have sanded the cab.

Here are some points I am glad I found out before I sprayed the cab:

- Practice the settings of the spray gun on scrap wood to get it right.
- Have heaps of thinner.
- Have heaps of paper towel.
- Have an area to work on that you can really make a mess on.
- Have several measuring cups/ buckets up to 500ml.
- Have a bucket hand for waste thinner/ paint.
- Spray with your arm straight and move your body along, don’t move arm in an arc.
- Start spraying 6 inches before moving along to item for painting, and continue to spray 6 inches after the end.
- Don’t forget to mask up all areas of item for painting including the side and back. You may need to tape some areas up as you go when swapping sides for painting.
- Wear a respirator mask

Here is what I learned for next time:

- Consider cheap marquee tent to be used as a spray booth if you do not have another suitable area.
- Spray painting is unforgiving even on slight scratching/ marks.
- Do 4 coats of primer when you have sanded and repaired the surface (I only did 2).
- Be careful when the paint starts to run out in your HVLP gun.
- Figure out how to pull your gun apart before using it the first time for spraying paint.
- Don’t be too hard on yourself the first time! My job ended up looking very good, but I still learned heaps for next time.

whew!!

shooter
9th February 2008, 06:09 PM
very nice. I am soo itching.. if only i had a little bit more money i could start my projects :P

Davefjedi
9th February 2008, 08:33 PM
Cudos to you makeing a spray booth
lol i just brushed the bugs off after letting them dry for a few days;)

Savage
10th February 2008, 06:13 PM
2 pointers.
The door looks like the paint went on dry, or you over lapping wasn't enough or too much thinner, as in the light reflection you can see "tiger stripes".

Did you use a regulator / water trap. Those small compressors are nortorius for water in your paint.

Still it looks heaps better than previous. I 2 packed mine, looks like a piano finish :lol

spacies
10th February 2008, 06:27 PM
Well done mate.

Not bad for a first effort.
Remember when you are using car paint that you can really cake the stuff on because it dries really fast. If you get lines in the fan of paint, make sure you have you air pressure/arc set right and/or your mixture is right.
Do this on a scrap piece before you start.

You know now not to skimp on primer. I usually do 2 coats then do any spot priming/filling. Then another 2-4 coats.

Rock on!

Roxbury
10th February 2008, 08:19 PM
2 pointers.
Did you use a regulator / water trap. Those small compressors are nortorius for water in your paint.

Yep I used one between the compressor and the hose. I have found an in-line one now I can put between the gun and the hose.


Well done mate.

Not bad for a first effort.
Remember when you are using car paint that you can really cake the stuff on because it dries really fast. If you get lines in the fan of paint, make sure you have you air pressure/arc set right and/or your mixture is right.
Do this on a scrap piece before you start.

You know now not to skimp on primer. I usually do 2 coats then do any spot priming/filling. Then another 2-4 coats.

Rock on!

It's amazing how much you learn after doing it yourself for the first time. I don't know anybody who has done spray painting personally, so it was just what I read here and on the net.

To the untrained eye it looks excellent, to the experienced sprayers out there (and my critical eye) you see the blemishes.

DKong
10th February 2008, 10:20 PM
To the untrained eye it looks excellent, to the experienced sprayers out there (and my critical eye) you see the blemishes.

After all its an Arcade Cab, not a car.The people playing/looking at it will be looking at the screen more than the outside.
I'm sure originally when they did these cabs detail on paint finish was not high on the agenda as a mass produced object.
As long as your happy with it in your lounge room, it's got to be better than before eh

Roxbury
10th February 2008, 10:28 PM
As long as your happy with it in your lounge room, it's got to be better than before eh

You bet, the missus can't see anything wrong with it and doesn't know what I am talking about when I point out things. I'm being a bit too perfectionist I think!!!

DKong
10th February 2008, 10:45 PM
You bet, the missus can't see anything wrong with it and doesn't know what I am talking about when I point out things. I'm being a bit too perfectionist I think!!!

I know what you mean, I was going to leave the Atari Sprint exterior as is, but now want to fix every chip/re vinyl/replace T-moulding and replace the artwork. Just has to be perfect;)
Just about to order some reproduction "Atari Games" side art.
Damn prob with this game is its Chipboard on the outside, and one corner is chipping badly, the stuff flakes away like a Samboy chip.

Still not sure if its worth going the full resto, but being a dedicated (shared with Paperboy) cab I can convince myself. As well it's one of those games that doesn't really do it in MAME without the full setup.

Roxbury
11th February 2008, 10:44 AM
I have sanded the legs pag with wet & dry paper and a wire brush, and sanded back the glass lid clips with wet & dry paper only (those clips are buggers to sand on the inside!!!)

Clips before:
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Clips_before.JPG

Clips after:
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Clips_after.JPG

Legs after:
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Legs_after.JPG

What you can't see on the legs is pitting and a few deep scratches. I think somebody painted right over leg rust before without sanding it.

So I am thinking I should get the legs and clips powder coated. Is there anything I need to know about this (pros/ cons) and what should I expect to pay? Maybe $30 - $50????

spacies
11th February 2008, 10:50 AM
My susgestions would be to take out the scratches and pitting yourself with a grinder then a sander.

I took some legs in to be chromed and thought they would do it but they did nothing, just chromed them. They looked like ass and I lost the plot at the guy calling him all sorts of funny names. When I was walking out he asked if I was gonna pay ($100 per set), 2 words came out and I don't need to tell you what they were.

Okay, I do...**** OFF

Roxbury
11th February 2008, 11:21 AM
My susgestions would be to take out the scratches and pitting yourself with a grinder then a sander.


OK, so I have an angle grinder. I have only used this with a wire brush and to cut steel fence posts. I never got very far with trade subjects in high school, can I do it with an angle grinder, or does it need to be a bench grinder? What type of grind wheel would I use, just a normal steel one for steel?

spacies
11th February 2008, 11:31 AM
Angle grinder is perfect.

Use a Flap Sander wheel. You can buy them pretty cheap in packs of 6-8 or just buy 1 rough and 1 smooth.

Davefjedi
11th February 2008, 11:53 AM
I got mine sandblasted then powder-coated Looks sweet and cost about 60 bucks

PS posted the caps and rivets today

Roxbury
11th February 2008, 12:46 PM
One great thing about arcade is that I am using tools that I would not ordinarily use. I was always better at using my head than my hands, but now the hands are catching up.

PS davef thanks so much!!!!!!!!!!

DKong
11th February 2008, 02:50 PM
My susgestions would be to take out the scratches and pitting yourself with a grinder then a sander.

I took some legs in to be chromed and thought they would do it but they did nothing, just chromed them. They looked like ass and I lost the plot at the guy calling him all sorts of funny names. When I was walking out he asked if I was gonna pay ($100 per set), 2 words came out and I don't need to tell you what they were.

Okay, I do...**** OFF

They should of nickel plated them first, and to save a bit of money you get them back like that, then rub them back with wet & dry and then when your happy with the finish they chrome them. Did it with some HR ute tray strips that were badly pitted/dented and come up like new.

Roxbury
11th February 2008, 08:05 PM
Sanded the crap off the hinge for the front door

Before:
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Hinge_before.jpg

After:
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Hinge_After.jpg

Yeah I know its not terribly exciting, but for anyone who has a cab which needs a lot of attention, you need to clean up everything!!

Savage
11th February 2008, 08:14 PM
Nice work.
What did you end up doing to get it like that?>

Roxbury
11th February 2008, 08:26 PM
Nice work.
What did you end up doing to get it like that?>

Just 240 grit then 400 grit wet and dry. It looks heaps better, you can't see a few little marks in the pic though.

Roxbury
14th February 2008, 06:44 PM
A big thanks to davef, today I received my new leg end caps and rivets. Cheers mate!!!!!

Davefjedi
14th February 2008, 09:02 PM
A big thanks to davef, today I received my new leg end caps and rivets. Cheers mate!!!!!

:023:
will just add that special touch I had a hard time searching for those caps
was lucky one day any found a bag in an auction house and brought the lot running low now though

narf_
14th February 2008, 09:31 PM
what is the dimensions of the coinbox

i reckon i found a pretty close one. And does the front face have a slight angle on it?

intigod
16th February 2008, 10:47 AM
what is the dimensions of the coinbox

i reckon i found a pretty close one. And does the front face have a slight angle on it?

btw narf... love your avater... havent seen that one in ages :)

Roxbury
17th February 2008, 07:52 PM
Didn't get much time this weekend.

I went and bought a 40 grit flap sander wheel to try and remove some of the pititng and scratching from the legs before getting them powder coated.

Here is a before shot of the worst of the pitting:

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Leg_Pitted.jpg

And here is a shot after taking to it with the 40 grit flap wheel.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Leg_Grind.jpg

Thats worked pretty well. I now need smooth the legs further now. I have only seen flap wheels in 40, 60 & 80 grit.

I should be able to get a pretty good finish from a further sand with an 80 grit flap wheel, then a 120 wet & dry sand?? Any thoughts?

Roxbury
23rd February 2008, 07:17 PM
I have now used a 40 grit & 80 grit grinding wheel to remove pitting & deep scratches from the legs. I finished off sanding them with 120 grit & 400 grit wet & dry. I think they are now ready for powder coating.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Leg_Finished.JPG

I have put the front door on now.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Front_door_on.JPG

I don't know why, but the front door is a couple of mm short in length. The position of the holes puts it flush with one side , but a gap on the other. I have fiddled to try and get the best fit possible for now. I think I will continue for now, and think about filling & re-drilling holes later. The gap I am referring to might be a bit hard to see below.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Cab_gap_mm.JPG

I put in a new lock, but the shaft is a bit too long. I will get another one with a shaft about 10mm shorter.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Lock.JPG

Arcade King
12th March 2008, 07:31 PM
You've inspired me to do up my Hankin which is the very first cab I ever owned. All metal crap off to the Powerdercoaters :)

Davefjedi
12th March 2008, 07:53 PM
Do you need the metal bars that go from the lock to the sides??
know what i mean?

Roxbury
12th March 2008, 08:25 PM
You've inspired me to do up my Hankin which is the very first cab I ever owned. All metal crap off to the Powerdercoaters :)

I too will be sending stuff off to the powdercoaters. At the moment, I am speaking to someone who is trying to find me at least one control panel as one I have is stuffed, so I am saving up to do a bulk lot also with other parts from other cabs soon. As far as I am aware, the more stuff you have, the better the value in cost.

One thing I learned was before you get them powder coated, they need to be sandblasted and then primed with zinc primer. What this means is that you don't really need to clean them up, as it makes no difference to the sandblaster whether they have crap on them or not, they still need to be sandblasted whether you have cleaned them up or not. I found out the hard way with the legs, spent ages grinding & sanding!

Should I get the underside hinge panels of the control panels powder coated as well? They have cleaned up all right, but would it look better all black? Thoughts? Here is a picture:

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Control_panel_bottom_sanded.JPG


Do you need the metal bars that go from the lock to the sides??
know what i mean?

Not sure mate???

Arcade King
12th March 2008, 08:34 PM
I'm not going to go all out like you, I just want to give the old girl a tidy up, all the metal bits Powder coated. I like to keep my cabs original as possible that includes a few scratches on the glass the original CPs etc with that funky black vinyl stuff.

If it was me I'd get the whole CP powder coated, probably best for the long run :)

Roxbury
15th March 2008, 10:27 PM
I have put a fuse holder in between the power switch & filter now. Dick Smith didn't have much choice in fuse holders, so as you can see I got a holder with a small box to enclose it in to keep things neat. Now I need to remember to buy some fuses!

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Fuse.jpg

danny_galaga
16th March 2008, 01:10 AM
I have sanded the legs pag with wet & dry paper and a wire brush, and sanded back the glass lid clips with wet & dry paper only (those clips are buggers to sand on the inside!!!)



probably too late to suggest this, but getting friendly with an auto electrician would have saved you a lot of hassle. dude i knew used to let me use his bead blaster for that sorta stuff (",)

Roxbury
6th September 2008, 08:28 PM
Well its been a while since I have done anything with this project, and in the short term I don't have much time for it, but I have certainly not forgotten it!! Finally I have managed to score a better set of original control panels. Just a reminder that one of the panels that came with this cocktail was hacked to buggery, so I wanted another.

This set that I have now is in fairly good condition, with a few minor scratches. A bit of a clean up, new buttons & joysticks, and blank caps for the single button on the left hand side, these will look great!

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/NewHankinCPs.jpg

maxpower
7th September 2008, 02:14 PM
Well its been a while since I have done anything with this project, and in the short term I don't have much time for it, but I have certainly not forgotten it!! Finally I have managed to score a better set of original control panels. Just a reminder that one of the panels that came with this cocktail was hacked to buggery, so I wanted another.

This set that I have now is in fairly good condition, with a few minor scratches. A bit of a clean up, new buttons & joysticks, and blank caps for the single button on the left hand side, these will look great!

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/NewHankinCPs.jpg

SO it was you that out bit me. I got 2 of them for a $1ea and those 2 went for more then $20.

Roxbury
7th September 2008, 03:27 PM
Yep that was me!! I'm surprised they didn't go for more, given that in the past lots of people here on AA have wanted some. I was really happy with the price - I have looked for these for so long I would have gone much higher......

maxpower
7th September 2008, 04:06 PM
Yep that was me!! I'm surprised they didn't go for more, given that in the past lots of people here on AA have wanted some. I was really happy with the price - I have looked for these for so long I would have gone much higher......

Yeah strange I got the other 2 for a $1ea. There in good nic too. I'm getting a few made but can't make them for a $1ea LOL.

Roxbury
7th September 2008, 04:14 PM
Yeah strange I got the other 2 for a $1ea. There in good nic too. I'm getting a few made but can't make them for a $1ea LOL.

I got a quote to get them made up down here - $50 each, no holes. $1 each is a bargain!! I thought about bidding on the others, but I decided to only get what I needed and wanted, which was the control panels with blue decals.

DKong
7th September 2008, 05:24 PM
They look in great condition well done, some times it pays to just wait till the right thing comes along.

Roxbury
1st March 2009, 10:19 AM
Another update: I got a few parts power coated glass black. Mmmm shiny, they look great!

http://tehkella.net/damian/misc/powdercoat_parts.JPG

daics3522
1st March 2009, 12:32 PM
Another update: I got a few parts power coated glass black. Mmmm shiny, they look great!

http://tehkella.net/damian/misc/powdercoat_parts.JPG

They look ORSM, cant wait to see it fully assembled.........

GORGAR 1
1st March 2009, 09:20 PM
AWESOME-man I'd love a Hankin Cocktail...

Peter

LOTR4U
1st March 2009, 10:07 PM
yep I sure like a good powder coating.

DKong
1st March 2009, 10:26 PM
yep I sure like a good powder coating.

Bullet proof :) seriously it's the way to go! Should come up a treat fitted.

Roxbury
16th August 2009, 09:01 PM
Had a bit of spare time today, so I fitted a power distribution thing to it so I can take 240v to a new fan (old fan was 110V).

I got a power block from an spare parts, and mounted it in a jiffy box on the base of the cabinet.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Power_Distro_Open_Box.JPG

Next I put some holes in the box lid for the wires to pass through.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Power_Distro_Closed_Box.JPG

So in summary from where the main 240V comes in, the active goes to a fuse then to the distribution box. The neutral goes straight to the distribution box. From the distribution box one 240V pair goes to the filter (black wires), the other pair (red wires) will eventually go to a new 240V fan.

Next thing to do is re-wire with a new Jamma harness.

spriggy
26th August 2009, 01:06 PM
Good Job so far m8. Well done.

Roxbury
29th August 2009, 07:01 PM
Started installing a new Jamma harness today. To make things easier for me, I like to have the following on hand:

- Heap of molex plugs
- Heap of quality coloured wire
- Good crimper
- Pin removal tools
- Heap of cable ties
- Good wire strippers
- Good wire cutters

Its good to think before cutting wires and attaching connecters. I like to make sure I group all the wires that go to the same spots together so I can make things nice and neat. See the pic below, I start with a jumbled mess (the new harness I am adapting).

Also I like to add extra +5V and Ground wires to the harness. The ones you buy mostly don't have many of the available points connected. It can't hurt having more return paths available even if you don't need them.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/wire_mess.jpg

Roxbury
13th September 2009, 11:18 AM
I have new shiny fan & speaker to replace the old ones which were covered in crap. I have also wired in the test switch, and the coin meter which were disconnected.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/new_speaker_fan.jpg

Roxbury
20th September 2009, 07:24 PM
Believe it or not, this wiring is on its way to being reasonably well organised.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/insider_wiring_progress.JPG

Also wired up Player One today. To make the wiring the right length, I started with lengths of wires and crimped spade connectors on the end, at a length that was about 10cm longer than it needed to be to get back to the molex plug. I then organised the wiring neatly with cable ties, then cut all wires to end at the same point, crimped pins on them, then placed into molex connector. In other words I find it easier to work backwards with this type of wiring.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/player_one_wiring.JPG

Roxbury
26th September 2009, 08:58 PM
Now have the Player 2 wired up, put the coin mech & plate back in, put the sides on. Next thing to do is order a universal chassis. The original 3 piece Kaga will end up in the bin, it had a vertical deflection problem, not worth the effort to fix. Also need some new T-moulding.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/sides_coinmech.JPG

Davefjedi
27th September 2009, 12:43 AM
6th February 2008 first post

Glad to see you don't rush things:laugh:

kane
7th October 2009, 07:38 PM
http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Lock.JPG

Interesting looking at this pic with the green number label, I just picked up a hankin on the weekend that has the same label in the same spot. I'm guessing this isn't a standard thing, so maybe our cabs were once owned by the same operator. I thought it was interesting anyway, here's a small pic of mine.

Roxbury
7th October 2009, 08:49 PM
Interesting... I wonder if any other Hankin Owners have noticed similar labels?

Wob
7th October 2009, 09:14 PM
Mine has the same label, same spot, I assume it's a manufactures batch number or something.

I doubt with the spread of our machines, they would all come from the same OP.

DKong
7th October 2009, 09:55 PM
80's 3-d labeling , awesome stuff, wonder if you can still buy them sticky tape dispenser type things, that imprinted as a raised edge :D

kane
8th October 2009, 05:07 AM
Mine has the same label, same spot, I assume it's a manufactures batch number or something.

I doubt with the spread of our machines, they would all come from the same OP.

Ah, ok. I thought it looked too ghetto to be from the factory.

Wob
8th October 2009, 06:51 AM
;) Maybe by todays standards, but back when these were made that's hitech :)

Roxbury
10th October 2009, 06:16 PM
Have now installed the new Jomac chassis and the old tube.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/chassis_install.JPG

Installed a 48 in 1 as well.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/48in1.JPG

Next thing to do is put the top back on. Before I turn this on completely, I want to carefully check all the wiring again, and make sure the right voltages are going to the right places. This will be in a few weeks time, as I am moving house very soon.

Roxbury
11th October 2009, 01:52 PM
Have now put everything back together. It might be hard to tell, but it looks 100 x better than when I started.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/together1.JPG

and another pic

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/together2.JPG

Now I am not done yet. As I am moving soon, I won't be able to do much else to it for at least a few weeks.

Still to do:

* Re-check wiring & voltages before turining it on with everything connected.
* Add new T-Moulding.
* Source an original glass top, or make a repro.

Roxbury
26th November 2009, 10:11 PM
Have now got this up and running - looks great!
I have added new T moulding.

The status of this is 95% I now need a NOS or repro Hankin Glass top. I will feel that the project will be completed after replacing the glass.

Roxbury
6th December 2009, 09:08 PM
Here are some more pics and it running.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/1.JPG

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/2.JPG

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/3.JPG

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/4.JPG

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/5.JPG

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/6.JPG

If I ever get an original glass that will be the end of this restore.

Davefjedi
7th December 2009, 06:23 AM
Tight like a tigerrrr

spriggy
8th December 2009, 08:42 PM
Well done m8. Makes u feel good to stand back and admire your own work huh? :cool:

Dutchy
12th December 2009, 11:50 PM
Nice job mate well done :cool:

Roxbury
29th July 2010, 08:01 PM
I have finally got around to making a repro Hankin Glass top. With thanks to all involved in making the Hankin glass border PDF file, I had a vinyl sticker made and had it attached to the underside of a new glass piece. Looks great now! I think I am now resonably happy that I can say this restore is as close to 100% as it will ever be.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Hankin Glass Lid.JPG

DKong
29th July 2010, 08:09 PM
I have finally got around to making a repro Hankin Glass top. With thanks to all involved in making the Hankin glass border PDF file, I had a vinyl sticker made and had it attached to the underside of a new glass piece. Looks great now! I think I am now resonably happy that I can say this restore is as close to 100% as it will ever be.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/Hankin Glass Lid.JPG


Well done, where abouts did you get the glass cut.

I remember spending a few hours with my GF at the time touching up the black border with some enamel paint on my Hankin, but the scratches on the glass pissed me off no end.

Now for some new Cp's with original blue P1 P2 and arrows, that would be the icing ;)

Roxbury
29th July 2010, 08:36 PM
I got the glass done at a local Hobart business Lansdell Glass.

Mr_Staypuft
29th July 2010, 10:12 PM
I think I am now resonably happy that I can say this restore is as close to 100% as it will ever be.


Awesome work!

Hope to (slowly) follow in your footsteps with my own one. :)

wingtipvortex
29th July 2010, 10:20 PM
I got the glass done at a local Hobart business Lansdell Glass.
Lansdell Glass are really good with cutting specific sized glass and mirrors. I had some round mirrors cut for some disco lighting as spares, very reasonable prices and done without hassle.

BTW, how much better does your cab look now with that addition:cool: Very sweet.

Roxbury
30th July 2010, 08:00 AM
BTW, how much better does your cab look now with that addition:cool: Very sweet.

Yeah it makes a big difference! A tip out there for anybody wanting to do the same thing with a vinyl sticker - get it put on for you! The guys that made the sticker for me did it for free, but I would actually pay money for them to do it. Due to the nature of the sticker, it would be very easy to mis-align it, and also very easy to make a mistake, resulting in an imperfect result.

felixthadog
14th November 2012, 09:52 PM
Have now installed the new Jomac chassis and the old tube.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/chassis_install.JPG

Installed a 48 in 1 as well.

http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/48in1.JPG

Next thing to do is put the top back on. Before I turn this on completely, I want to carefully check all the wiring again, and make sure the right voltages are going to the right places. This will be in a few weeks time, as I am moving house very soon.

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but I am impressed with the restoration of your Hankin cocktail machine. I was just curious, why do you need a transformer with a Jomac chassis and a 48-in-1 board? Also, would you be able to post or PM me some close-up photos of the inside of your cabinet? I would like to replicate your wiring in my own cab.

Cheers,
Matthew

Roxbury
15th November 2012, 05:55 AM
Sorry for bumping an old thread, but I am impressed with the restoration of your Hankin cocktail machine. I was just curious, why do you need a transformer with a Jomac chassis and a 48-in-1 board? Also, would you be able to post or PM me some close-up photos of the inside of your cabinet? I would like to replicate your wiring in my own cab.

Cheers,
Matthew

I actually don't require the transformer with the Jomac chassis, but left it in there anyway. On reflection I think the wiring is a bit messy, compared to the way it is done in LAI cocktail cabs. I suggest wiring up different components (eg control panel p1, chassis etc) one at a time and making the wiring neat as you go. Were there any areas in particular you wanted a pic of the wiring, for either how it is routed or connected?

felixthadog
15th November 2012, 07:46 AM
I actually don't require the transformer with the Jomac chassis, but left it in there anyway. On reflection I think the wiring is a bit messy, compared to the way it is done in LAI cocktail cabs. I suggest wiring up different components (eg control panel p1, chassis etc) one at a time and making the wiring neat as you go. Were there any areas in particular you wanted a pic of the wiring, for either how it is routed or connected?

I am mainly interested in the connections on the PSU, mains connection, and filter. However, I would also like to know where the wires start and finish for each of the components. In this picture -> http://tehkella.net/damian/Hankin/Restore/NetPics/chassis_install.JPG it is difficult to determine which wires go where.

Cheers,
Matthew

Roxbury
15th November 2012, 11:38 AM
I'll have a look on the weekend. If I forget just bump the thread again!

felixthadog
21st November 2012, 11:57 AM
I'll have a look on the weekend. If I forget just bump the thread again!

:bump:

Matthew

dmworking247
21st November 2012, 02:21 PM
I'm suddenly very interested in this thread, as I'm in the progress of restoring the same kind of cabinet for keeps.

I'm not going to the extent that you did with painting (nice work by the way), as the laminate and woodgrain is actually quite nice. However I have:

Converted from 2 player on one side, to 1p each side that allow left or right handed control.

Powder coated the control panels
Replaced joysticks
New universal chassis
Removed stepdown transformer
Put in new 240v fan
Install new speaker, new volume control pot
New wiring, dedicated test/service button
New tinted, tempered glass, that is contoured to the curve of the top panel (I didn't like originally you'd hit your hand on the top panel when using the joysticks)
Cleaned out the inside of the cabinet (30 years of black soot)
New cam locks

felixthadog
21st November 2012, 03:07 PM
I'm suddenly very interested in this thread, as I'm in the progress of restoring the same kind of cabinet for keeps.

I'm not going to the extent that you did with painting (nice work by the way), as the laminate and woodgrain is actually quite nice. However I have:

Converted from 2 player on one side, to 1p each side that allow left or right handed control.

Powder coated the control panels
Replaced joysticks
New universal chassis
Removed stepdown transformer
Put in new 240v fan
Install new speaker, new volume control pot
New wiring, dedicated test/service button
New tinted, tempered glass, that is contoured to the curve of the top panel (I didn't like originally you'd hit your hand on the top panel when using the joysticks)
Cleaned out the inside of the cabinet (30 years of black soot)
New cam locks


Pics please :)

Matthew

Roxbury
21st November 2012, 05:49 PM
:bump:

Matthew

Ahh yes I knew I forgot something. Will try again this weekend!

felixthadog
25th November 2012, 06:19 PM
Ahh yes I knew I forgot something. Will try again this weekend!

:bump:

Matthew

Roxbury
25th November 2012, 06:28 PM
Sorry I have been flat out! I thought about taking pics of the PSU, mains & filter connections, but couldn't really get a good pic that made it clear what went where. Anyway, when I wired this up (as my first restore) I referred to this document http://www.arcadefever.net/how-arcade-work/HOW-WORK-AN-ARCADE.html which was really helpful in regards to the mains, PSU & filter connections. Basically my wiring is based on this (which is pretty standard anyway). I think this should help. If there is a particular component of the wiring of the Hankin you are unsure about just let me know and I will look and either take a photo or give a written explanation.

PS our stupid webhost keeps suspending our web server account, so pics are off line till we either get them to fix it, or transfer to a new webhost (whichever comes first).

felixthadog
25th November 2012, 09:31 PM
Sorry I have been flat out! I thought about taking pics of the PSU, mains & filter connections, but couldn't really get a good pic that made it clear what went where. Anyway, when I wired this up (as my first restore) I referred to this document http://www.arcadefever.net/how-arcade-work/HOW-WORK-AN-ARCADE.html which was really helpful in regards to the mains, PSU & filter connections. Basically my wiring is based on this (which is pretty standard anyway). I think this should help. If there is a particular component of the wiring of the Hankin you are unsure about just let me know and I will look and either take a photo or give a written explanation.

PS our stupid webhost keeps suspending our web server account, so pics are off line till we either get them to fix it, or transfer to a new webhost (whichever comes first).

Thanks for the link, it will be very handy. I expect that I will still have questions, but hopefully they will be more detailed than "show me your wiring" :redface

Matthew