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    Thread: Assembling a WPC089 MPU board from scratch

    1. #1
      Sabot68's Avatar
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      Assembling a WPC089 MPU board from scratch

      HI all,
      I have set myself the task of building up a WPC089 MPU board, partly as a project and to have a spare MPU board for my Addams Family pin.
      While I have a basic understanding of electronic components (eg I can tell a diode from a resistor etc) and I am reasonably handy with a soldering iron (surface mount stuff still scares the carp outta me) this is by far the biggest project I have taken on.

      I received the bare board today and have assembled 95% of the components.
      My first question is... there are a bunch of pin outs labelled 'W' 1 through 9, on my bill of components these are described as 0 ohm jumpers, can I use the discarded legs of resistors for this or should the jumper be insulated wire?

      I suspect I will have may other questions as I go along so I ask for your help and patience....

      Andrew

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      Any piece of wire will do - be careful as not all of the "W" jumpers are used - check what RAM and ROM you will be using as this is what these "settings" are for.

      There might be something in here that answers some of your questions:

      http://homepin.com/kits/WPC_INFO.zip

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      Double check every solder joint because solder bridges are bad. And don't overheat the components with the iron. Good luck.

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      Quote Originally Posted by Sabot68 View Post
      HI all,

      My first question is... there are a bunch of pin outs labelled 'W' 1 through 9, on my bill of components these are described as 0 ohm jumpers, can I use the discarded legs of resistors for this or should the jumper be insulated wire?

      Andrew
      You can actually buy 0 0hm resistors.
      http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/throug...stors/0188374/
      That's what was originally used, but wire links would be ok.

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      Quote Originally Posted by c_mario View Post
      You can actually buy 0 0hm resistors.
      http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/throug...stors/0188374/
      That's what was originally used, but wire links would be ok.
      We supplied 0 ohm links in our kits but they aren't necessary. A piece of wire will do the same job.

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      Thanks Again for all the help so far..
      Couple more issues I have.
      I have soldered all the resistors from the list of components on to the board, R76, R81, R99 are left empty.
      Also how can I tell which way the 3 reds leds are mounted, I know the long leg of the led is the positive but there is no polarity marking printed on the board. There is a trace on the board that is common to all three of the led holes so I assume the that is negative? (hole closest to the edge of the board?)

      and how to I mod the board to take a CR2450 battery and holder?

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      Quote Originally Posted by Sabot68 View Post
      Thanks Again for all the help so far..
      Couple more issues I have.
      I have soldered all the resistors from the list of components on to the board, R76, R81, R99 are left empty.
      Also how can I tell which way the 3 reds leds are mounted, I know the long leg of the led is the positive but there is no polarity marking printed on the board. There is a trace on the board that is common to all three of the led holes so I assume the that is negative? (hole closest to the edge of the board?)

      and how to I mod the board to take a CR2450 battery and holder?
      What board are you building? A genuine one?

      The LEDs should have a flat on one side of the printed legend that indicates direction.

      Look at the schematic for the values of those resistors. I don't have it in front of me so I can't look at the moment.

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      WPC89
      R76 1k2 1/4w
      R81 1k2 1/4w
      R99 1meg 1/4w

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      Supposed to be a NOS Williams board
      board crop.jpgboard reverse.jpgwilliams.jpg

      I have looked up the resistor values and they are R76 = 1.2k ohm, R81 1.2k ohm and R99 1M ohm.

      The leds I have do not have a flat side

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      Have a careful look at the very base of the led, there should be a flat section. The actual light emitting section is not flat sided, just the very base section.

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