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Hankin MPU Flashes


Boots

Question

I am working on a Hankin MPU at the moment for a friend and I can't find any documentation on the MPU self test LED flashes.

So far I have worked out that with either the 6802 or the roms or UC10 6821 missing you get a locked LED

With the 5101 missing you get 1 flash, with it you get three flashes.

Here comes the weird bit, with a known good 6821 installed at UC11 I get three flashes but with it removed I get four????

Could it be a bad socket shorting once UC11 is installed?

If anyone has an explanation on the flashes that would help greatly.

 

PS it's an FJ

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It's just complete nonsense that removing an IC gets more flashes

 

fairly random guess from a very bad schematic ... ive never worked on this board...perhaps code looking for cabinet test switch input or zero crossing? ( both look to be behind that pia) then doing more if it doesnt see them cos the pia isnt there

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fairly random guess from a very bad schematic ... ive never worked on this board...perhaps code looking for cabinet test switch input or zero crossing? ( both look to be behind that pia) then doing more if it doesnt see them cos the pia isnt there

 

I did briefly think of something like that

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I am working on a Hankin MPU at the moment for a friend and I can't find any documentation on the MPU self test LED flashes.

So far I have worked out that with either the 6802 or the roms or UC10 6821 missing you get a locked LED

With the 5101 missing you get 1 flash, with it you get three flashes.

Here comes the weird bit, with a known good 6821 installed at UC11 I get three flashes but with it removed I get four????

Could it be a bad socket shorting once UC11 is installed?

If anyone has an explanation on the flashes that would help greatly.

 

PS it's an FJ

 

Might be of interest...

 

http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/46625-Hankin-Shark-repair?highlight=Hankin+mpu

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OK so a small update.

On the bench with 12v power supply (5 volts created on the MPU) I get four flashes with all socketed chips installed.

I initially was still using the original sockets and with IC11 PIA 6821 out I was getting four flashes, in I was getting three flashes.

All new sockets now and I get four flashes with IC11 installed.

 

This is what I found so far:

You need to start with only IC1, IC2, IC3, IC10 installed.

IC1, IC2, IC3, IC10 need to be installed and good for the LED to start the initial flicker and get two flashes, if any of these are missing or no good the LED is locked on.

IC4 gets the third & fourth flash.

If you then install IC11 and the socket is no good, you will go back to three flashes down from four.

With IC11 and it's socket good you get four flashes.

 

None of this system makes sense to me as you get very little value in the form of diagnostic information from the flashes.

 

I believe there are supposed to be six flashes, can any Hankin owners confirm this?

 

I assume for the remaining flashes the MPU needs to be installed in the machine, I have tried connecting 24 volts to the MPU but I do not get any additional flashes or response.

Next step, try it in the machine.

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Same as a Bally board you will need for the board to detect the zero crossing voltage before it completes the boot cycle so make sure that is making it to the right place through the resistors/diodes etc.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Surely somebody in the AA family has a Hankin MPU service manual?

 

Not that I have been told.

 

A. Hankin & Co lost a great deal of money with the pinball venture and they were keen to put it all behind them.

 

When they moved to new premises everything was thrown out including hundreds of backglasses and much other stuff.

 

It took the business several years to pay off the debt incurred directly because of manufacturing pinball so you can imagine they are not overly fussed about re-visiting the situation in any case.

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Not that I have been told.

A. Hankin & Co lost a great deal of money with the pinball venture and they were keen to put it all behind them.

When they moved to new premises everything was thrown out including hundreds of backglasses and much other stuff.

It took the business several years to pay off the debt incurred directly because of manufacturing pinball so you can imagine they are not overly fussed about re-visiting the situation in any case.

From a business point of view, Sad to believe that profit was thrown out with the belief that all was worthless...:(

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From a business point of view, Sad to believe that profit was thrown out with the belief that all was worthless...:(

 

I can say that the times I have raised issues around the subject "over a beer or three" it has not been well received.

 

I have taken to not mentioning it.

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Interesting, I never had anything to do with Hankins but I was under the impression they were a cheap copy of a Bally 17 or 35 MPU board. Please correct me if I am wrong. They do look nearly identical.

 

Hankin MPU's are far from your implication that they were a "cheap copy" of a Bally board.

 

In fact they used more modern components for their time than the Bally but this could have been down to the fact that by the time the Hankin boards were made, the Bally design had already been around a fairly long time.

 

Yes, the layout and design of the electronics was overall "similar" but that's just "generic electronics".

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With F3 removed on the p/s board I get 3 flashes

 

Looks like you are on the money there

Initially I was getting four flashes with IC11 PIA installed out of the machine

I installed the board back in the machine and oops still four flashes.

I thought back to the four flashes with no IC11 three flashes with and I was sure the hold up must be something to do with IC11.

So I pulled IC11 out and sure enough pin20 was bent under and not in the socket.

Once I rectified this away she went with 6 flashes and into attract mode.

Just to confirm I pulled the 24V fuse and I got only three flashes.

 

 

 

So to confirm this is the correct flash sequence:

 

On the bench with 12v power supply (5 volts created on the MPU) I three flashes with all socketed chips installed.

With IC11 PIA 6821 out I there should be four flashes, IC11 in only three flashes.

 

You need to start with only IC1, IC2, IC3, IC10 installed.

IC1, IC2, IC3, IC10 need to be installed and good for the LED to start the initial flicker and get two flashes, if any of these are missing or no good the LED is locked on.

IC4 gets the third & fourth flash.

If you then install IC11 you will go back to three flashes down from four.

 

With the MPU installed in the machine you get six flashes, and similar to Bally you get a faint glow from the LED once completely booted.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

So now I am working on the power supply

The main power input connector was a real mess, someone had been digging around in it with a soldering iron.

I repinned it with trifurcon pins before trying to start the machine and all voltages were good.

The headers are the round pin style, not as much contact area as the square pin style so all these have been replaced.

Still have to look at the fuse clips and someone has made a bit of a mess with the rectifier diodes.

These are listed as 100V 6A - MR751 in the schematics but these are either hard to get or discontinued.

 

Looking at RS I have found these:

http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/rectifier-schottky-diodes/7969561/

 

Any reason I can't use these instead?

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Looks like you are on the money there

Initially I was getting four flashes with IC11 PIA installed out of the machine

I installed the board back in the machine and oops still four flashes.

I thought back to the four flashes with no IC11 three flashes with and I was sure the hold up must be something to do with IC11.

So I pulled IC11 out and sure enough pin20 was bent under and not in the socket.

Once I rectified this away she went with 6 flashes and into attract mode.

Just to confirm I pulled the 24V fuse and I got only three flashes.

 

 

 

So to confirm this is the correct flash sequence:

 

On the bench with 12v power supply (5 volts created on the MPU) I three flashes with all socketed chips installed.

With IC11 PIA 6821 out I there should be four flashes, IC11 in only three flashes.

 

You need to start with only IC1, IC2, IC3, IC10 installed.

IC1, IC2, IC3, IC10 need to be installed and good for the LED to start the initial flicker and get two flashes, if any of these are missing or no good the LED is locked on.

IC4 gets the third & fourth flash.

If you then install IC11 you will go back to three flashes down from four.

 

With the MPU installed in the machine you get six flashes, and similar to Bally you get a faint glow from the LED once completely booted.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

So now I am working on the power supply

The main power input connector was a real mess, someone had been digging around in it with a soldering iron.

I repinned it with trifurcon pins before trying to start the machine and all voltages were good.

The headers are the round pin style, not as much contact area as the square pin style so all these have been replaced.

Still have to look at the fuse clips and someone has made a bit of a mess with the rectifier diodes.

These are listed as 100V 6A - MR751 in the schematics but these are either hard to get or discontinued.

 

Looking at RS I have found these:

http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/rectifier-schottky-diodes/7969561/

 

Any reason I can't use these instead?

 

I'm with GIBO,

No reason not to use them:)

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I also had a lot of issues with only four flashes on start up. Ultimately it ended up being the chip (IC3) which I bought from ministry of pinball in the Netherlands of all places which fixed most of my issues. It then proceeds to successfully start but not continue to run.

I ended up changing all the main IC sockets as the score displays for fade out over 30 seconds and then the pinny would stop responding but have created another issue for myself, upon browsing my photos I realized I had not take a photo of the rear of the MPU board. I know there was several links there and recollect one which I put back but as now desperate if anyone has a Hankin ESB if they could take a photo of the rear of the MPU for me?

Many thanks

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