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Help with Atari asteroids


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Hi. So I recently got an Atari asteroids cocktail which seems to be having some issues.

 

Firstly the monitor has what seems to be a spot killer activated. It's an electrohome g05. Apart from that it has the occasional surge of activity then the spot killer activates.

 

Secondly I'm unsure if the board is working or not. The start lights work but no sound apart from some buzzing. Could this be a power supply issue.

 

Hope someone can help

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161120/14e45c39b0ba00a1309561cb845ed87c.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

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Do you have an oscilloscope ?

If you do, you can connect the XY outputs from the board to tell if it's a board problem or a monitor problem.

Have you tried putting it in test mode if there is a switch for that in your cabinet?

Have you checked voltages at the test points?

I can test / fix Asteroids boards but I'm in Brisbane.

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Do you have an oscilloscope ?

Sorry but I don't have one.

 

 

Have you tried putting it in test mode if there is a switch for that in your cabinet?

I have with no change.

 

 

Have you checked voltages at the test points?

I've been wanting to but I don't know what I'm testing for. Is there a diagram in the manual?

 

I can test / fix Asteroids boards but I'm in Brisbane.

 

Thanks for the offer but I'm in Sydney so I can't accept your generous offer.

 

When I get a chance I'll start trying to test voltages.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

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Welcome to the world of vectors :)

 

Is the game board LED lit? As mentioned, you need to check the voltages from the AR board, and ensure you have -15V and +15V on the game PCB. Sense and Zener mods are mandatory on these games. I'd also rebuild the ARI and install a new Big Blue.

 

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

 

Thanks for the offer but I'm in Sydney so I can't accept your generous offer.

 

 

Then I suggest you buy a working board from the USA if yours is faulty, as you won't find anyone in Sydney to repair it.

 

Regards,

 

Johns-Arcade.

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Help with Atari asteroids

 

Welcome to the world of vectors :)

 

Is the game board LED lit? As mentioned, you need to check the voltages from the AR board, and ensure you have -15V and +15V on the game PCB. Sense and Zener mods are mandatory on these games. I'd also rebuild the ARI and install a new Big Blue.

 

Regards,

 

Johns-Arcade.

 

I don't think the LED on the game board was lit. I just had a quick look at it to discover that the edge connector is mangled with pins missing. Some were soldered instead and overall the boards a mess of solder and jumpers.

 

But yea this is my first vector game and I can't wait to get it up and running. I was already planning to replace the big blue but I'm unsure of where to buy the capacitors. Also is there any difference between the LAI version and the Atari version other then LAI logos everywhere? Thanks

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

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Welcome to the world of vectors :)

 

Is the game board LED lit? As mentioned, you need to check the voltages from the AR board, and ensure you have -15V and +15V on the game PCB. Sense and Zener mods are mandatory on these games. I'd also rebuild the ARI and install a new Big Blue.

 

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

 

 

Then I suggest you buy a working board from the USA if yours is faulty, as you won't find anyone in Sydney to repair it.

 

Regards,

 

Johns-Arcade.

 

I might know someone who can repair it but until I can guarantee its the board I'm going to focus on the power supply

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

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I don't think the LED on the game board was lit. I just had a quick look at it to discover that the edge connector is mangled with pins missing. Some were soldered instead and overall the boards a mess of solder and jumpers.

 

But yea this is my first vector game and I can't wait to get it up and running. I was already planning to replace the big blue but I'm unsure of where to buy the capacitors. Also is there any difference between the LAI version and the Atari version other then LAI logos everywhere? Thanks

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

 

Most LAI Asteroids used the KZ XY monitor and often had bootleg boards fitted. Is your PCB an Atari or bootleg board? The only place you'll find the Big Blue caps is in the USA

 

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=67

 

Regards,

 

Johns-Arcade.

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  • 2 weeks later...

That's the one, but remove your PCB first. Once you have +5V at your edge connector, then attach your board, test and re-adjust. To be honest, I never power up the PCB until this board has been rebuilt and modified.

 

Edit: too late :(

 

Regards,

 

Johns-Arcade.

Edited by Johns-Arcade
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Can't disconnect it anyway. Look what the lovely operator/repairman/last owner did to the edge connector. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161129/05cd25055e7aa1d9b296fd094c0567f2.jpg

That would be one +5. X&Y ground as well as missing pins. I've got some work to do.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

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Cut the wires off the pcb. Have a look at the edge connector, and I'm sure you will see damaged pads. These will need to be repaired.

 

The AR boards have a sense circuit that adjusts the voltage depending on what voltage is on the sense wires from the PCB. If resistance builds up due to dirty pads, the AR board can ramp the voltage up and damage the PCB.

 

Check out my Asteroids thread here for more info.

 

http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/73368-Asteroids

 

Regards,

 

Johns-Arcade.

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  • 3 months later...

Ok so recently I've been working on the PCB which has solder on the edge connector (because solder fixes everything) so I've been trying to remove as much as I can but I found that one of the traces was bad. While removing the solder The trace just came off so how do I repair this?

 

59cf1edfcc6706cfdcefbb17681e0b23.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

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Ok so recently I've been working on the PCB which has solder on the edge connector (because solder fixes everything) so I've been trying to remove as much as I can but I found that one of the traces was bad. While removing the solder The trace just came off so how do I repair this?

 

59cf1edfcc6706cfdcefbb17681e0b23.jpg

 

 

That is not really repairable in my opinion

I have cut them off and soldered a new edge PCB connector when they are that bad

The bulky solder blobs will damage the edge connector female side. I suggest you have it replaced

 

I made up a custom fingerboard design to fix these and might have a spare in stock.

I am interstate right now till the 7th. I can have a look then if you need one

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That is not really repairable in my opinion

I have cut them off and soldered a new edge PCB connector when they are that bad

The bulky solder blobs will damage the edge connector female side. I suggest you have it replaced

I made up a custom fingerboard design to fix these and might have a spare in stock.

I am interstate right now till the 7th. I can have a look then if you need one

 

Glue it back in place with super glue will be fine, just be careful not to get any on the pad. Solder wire link from pad to track or via.

 

For now I have decided to just superglue it however if that doesn't work well or another trace comes off I'll look at replacing it. I'll be resuming it tonight so I'll find out then.

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  • 1 month later...
Update please Whats the progress on the power supply & PCB?

 

Right so I've decided that the PCB is beyond my ability so I'm going to send it off when I get the chance.

As for the AR power supply, I'm going to replace the capacitors when I get the chance.

 

Is there an Australian website that sells cap kits because if not I'll use an American website.

 

I've been really busy but asteroids will definitely be repaired.

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Thanks for the vote of confidence

 

I would not be able to fix the game PCB though sorry

 

1. It's had 7V through it.

2. I am a rookie on game boards

3. The edge connector is WAY beyond repair, and would need a less than desirable addon PCB

 

I have cut edge connectors off before and used fingerboards with bridges/blobs.

They worked, but like I said it's less than desirable / ugly

Edited by dezbaz
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