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Head to Head Battle Pinny


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Wires anyone ? So now throwing in the playfield wiring and completing the "Brains" of the battle Pinny. Hopefully when everything is in place it should sort of work , maybe......or just turn into a smoking wreck :o Still a fair bit to go on this stage though....

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Almost time to fire this puppy up ! I have now wired in the test playfields and connected to the "Brains" of the Battle Pinny. I shall now check all wiring from the playfield right back to the point of origin on the processor boards. A wire in the wrong spot could release the smoke genie, and I dont want that ! At this point none of the high voltage stuff is wired. There is no need at this stage, and its in place so that I can see if i Have any clashes of parts. If everything is connected correctly, then I will move onto checking the software works and the interconnection of all the boards work. This will be far easier to do at this stage, than when its all installed in the pinny.

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Awesome. Can't wait to play this. ��

 

Sent from my SM-G920I using Aussie Arcade mobile app

 

Neither can I !!!! One day , not now ,but definitely closer than 2 years ago !:o I was in at a pinball dealers office the other day, and he said " You cant imaging how hard it would be to design a pinny and make one !" I replied"I actually do ! ":lol

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Haha. Truth of the matter is. It is easy to imagine how EASY it is to design a machine with a full design team and large bank account. Hard to imagine how much is involved for one person to put one together in his garage.

 

Sent from my SM-G920I using Aussie Arcade mobile app

 

Disconcertingly well put.

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First test of the rollover targets controller and lamp driver boards. The push buttons on the test playfield are to simulate the rollover switches. So this was the first test to see if the input encoder board, main processor board and lamp driver boards would all play nice with each other and make some magic happen, and they did ! first try ! And best of all, no smoke genies where released :p

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First test of the rollover targets controller and lamp driver boards. The push buttons on the test playfield are to simulate the rollover switches. So this was the first test to see if the input encoder board, main processor board and lamp driver boards would all play nice with each other and make some magic happen, and they did ! first try ! And best of all, no smoke genies where released

 

Those type red switches are dodgy at best as you demonstrated.

 

I know they are only for testing and it doesn't really matter what those switches are like but the rollover switches would probably work better as would those red ones with a cap across the switch like Bally had to do on there early SS machines.

1- to stretch the signal.

and

2- to stop switch bounce.

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Those type red switches are dodgy at best as you demonstrated.

 

I know they are only for testing and it doesn't really matter what those switches are like but the rollover switches would probably work better as would those red ones with a cap across the switch like Bally had to do on there early SS machines.

1- to stretch the signal.

and

2- to stop switch bounce.

 

Currently writing in debounce timers on the "MAGNET" lamps as the target switches vibrate when hit so can turn on and off 10 times in a second ! Thats the whole idea of this test playfield, is so I can iron out the bugs before the final assembly. Might also try a cap across the switches and see what happens....

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Currently writing in debounce timers on the "MAGNET" lamps as the target switches vibrate when hit so can turn on and off 10 times in a second ! Thats the whole idea of this test playfield, is so I can iron out the bugs before the final assembly. Might also try a cap across the switches and see what happens....

What size cap are you going to try?

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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Currently writing in debounce timers on the "MAGNET" lamps as the target switches vibrate when hit so can turn on and off 10 times in a second !

 

How many bounces do you get before they settle down? Besides debouncing in software and/or using caps, maybe some mechanical dampening might help?

 

Michi.

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De-bounce circuits usually work by creating one reliable pulse of a set duration and it is this duration of the pulse that prevents the input from seeing any further high or low transitions.

 

You can just use chips better suited to detect only a good high or a good low signal like those with "Schmitt trigger" inputs.....(any voltage above 1/2 the supply voltage of the chip is a high, anything below 1/2 is seen as a low), and this will help combined with on each gate to "extend" the output signal but this requires extra components.

 

The process is often called a "one shot circuit".

 

You can save on a lot of individual components and use a chip like this to do the same thing. this chip will "clean" 8 inputs.

 

http://ee-classes.usc.edu/ee459/library/datasheets/ede2008.pdf

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They're really hard to find. Jameco is out of stock and Amazon won't ship to Australia?

Have you bought some @Autosteve? If so where did you get them?

What about a max6818 the only issue with these is they're surface mount devices?

Cheers Trev

 

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They're really hard to find. Jameco is out of stock and Amazon won't ship to Australia?

Have you bought some @Autosteve? If so where did you get them?

What about a max6818 the only issue with these is they're surface mount devices?

Cheers Trev

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

The max6818 looks like the replacement IC but I would regard it as cost prohibitive at nearly $10 a chip.

 

May need to build up the circuit using discrete components.

 

Here are some examples and a basic rundown on exactly what is going on and how the problem is overcome including software solutions...

 

http://www.labbookpages.co.uk/electronics/debounce.html

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Thanks for all the advice guys. The videos show the input pulsing from the "flutter " of the the target switch. lots of trigger inputs in the time frame of a microprocessor . The initial video shoes the inputs "bouncing" from the target switch. The second video shows the input once I have put a 22uf electro on it. The input is now steady for 300m/s ish..... I also have put a debounce into my program to match this. It all works :041: Its a bit hard to see on the vid's but look for the led's flickering on the first video ( this is the switch bouncing ! ) The second vid you will see the leds staying solid on thanks to the capacitor.

https://youtu.be/NBr9x21XAwghttps://youtu.be/g58wDenrnew

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Oh the target switch's work. This is the target switches in action once the debounce was fixed. The vid shows the final target switch hit in a sequence, then the targets doing a light chase with red , green and blue turned on. This is all done off a RGB Piranha LEDs. Please note all design and concep fr this was one before addressable LEDS where cheap and out there !

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it talks ! Im a proud father, my battle Pinny has made it's first sounds !:038: This is testing the interface from the picaxe to the transistor driver board that then fires the MP3 Trigger. I found the picaxe could not sink the input to the trigger board low enough to fire the MP3 off. So the transistor pulls the input trigger on the MP3 bord low enough for it to work, and it DID ! Oh also I made a longer video clip, hope its ok @nmercury :lol

[video=youtube_share;-Mx_ReSWFoM]

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it talks ! Im a proud father, my battle Pinny has made it's first sounds !:038: This is testing the interface from the picaxe to the transistor driver board that then fires the MP3 Trigger. I found the picaxe could not sink the input to the trigger board low enough to fire the MP3 off. So the transistor pulls the input trigger on the MP3 bord low enough for it to work, and it DID !

 

Excellent work @thegrunta666.

 

Just a thought.

 

As you found the Picaxe output unable to sink the input of the MP3 board low enough, so as to not need to use a transistor and it's associated parts, what you could do is place a pot with one terminal of the pot connected to the line between the picaxe output and the mp3 input and either of the outside terminals of the pot to ground.

 

What this will do is let you easierly adjust how much you can pull the picaxe's output to ground.

 

Now by adjusting the pot, you should be able to set the pot to a value that when the picaxe output does go low, it will be low enough to trigger the mp3 board's input direct.

 

Once you get the pot to the correct level that you are happy with, take the pot out and measure the resistance with your meter and replace the pot with a resistor.

 

The purest electronics guy would probably be appalled and just say use the correct formula and work out the correct resistor value but I just find this approach so much quicker.

 

A word of advice, when adjusting the pot don't turn the pot completely off as in no resistance when the picaxe output is high as you will make a short path from it direct to ground.

 

The picaxe output will probably survive such an event but don't take that for granted.

 

If you are worried about this put a resistor in series with the pot, about 200ohm, so the pot and this 200ohm resistor will at a minimum have 200 ohms resistance.

 

Just make sure when you measure the pot's resistance, you add 200ohms to it for the resistor value.

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I'm sure we'll see the 1 hour long full attract mode and gameplay video soon. Which mp3 board are you using? I've just bought a small one on Ebay for the Thomas pin. It's about half the price of the sparkfun wav trigger and can still do 255 sounds. c5792663c9dbe685f1690a7491a24664.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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it talks ! Im a proud father, my battle Pinny has made it's first sounds !:038: This is testing the interface from the picaxe to the transistor driver board that then fires the MP3 Trigger. I found the picaxe could not sink the input to the trigger board low enough to fire the MP3 off. So the transistor pulls the input trigger on the MP3 bord low enough for it to work, and it DID ! Oh also I made a longer video clip, hope its ok @nmercury :lol

[video=youtube_share;-Mx_ReSWFoM]

 

Thats much better. I Blinked and missed the last one...

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Hey @BIG Trev if you're going to show ebay bits to tantalise how about including the item number or link so we can check it out.

 

I reckon this sound module is worth a look - ebay 191736125115 $2.20 and can direct drive 14 sounds in AD mode. Not sure if you can serially control it at the same time as AD which would be cool - use serial for background music and direct drive for short switch hit sounds. I've ordered one to play around with.

 

Sorry for thread hijack, but it's sort of relevant for diy sounds.

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