Jump to content
Due to a large amount of spamers, accounts will now have to be approved by the Admins so please be patient. ×

Recommended Posts

That's the next big challenge, the brake release switches are working and the boards seem to be working/powering up.

I'll get to work on it once I've sorted out the broken rod ends and ball joints that connect the car to the base section.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I really need to get in contact with this fella...

I'll do some tests tonight to determine where there is/n't power through the motor controller boards.

 

 

 

 

I changed Dipswitch A1 to on and it now checks motor cpu.

It comes up with 'Motor CPU Stop Error'...

Edited by Kaizen
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I spent the last 10 hours troubleshooting the Motor fault.

First I started by tracing the 40v drive motor power supply and all checked okay (44.4v) where it should be so I turned my attention to the servo motor driver boards.

The horizontal board 5A fuse had blown but the Vertical (15A) wasn't blown when I picked up the cab, my guess is that this was the original fault that caused the cab stop a decade ago.

When I first powered the cab up it blew both fuses on the 40v supply on each servo board.

With brake released on the vertical motor it took a little force to turn it by hand, once it started moving it freed up instantly so I'm hoping that the seized motor was all that was causing the 15A fuse to blow, it's common for the brake friction plates to hold when not used and or been wet.

Focusing on the Horizontal board I checked the MOSFET Transistors as these often blow on Electric Forklifts (similar electrics).

One of the MOSFET's was shorted between S & G, I removed it from the board and confirmed it was faulty.

Altronics have them so I'll see if they're open tomorrow/today (Ekka Show Public Holiday).

This would definitely have blown the fuse so I'll replace all 4 on the board and retest.

I've ordered some replacement opto's from RS so they'll arrive in the next day or so as well.

I'm pretty happy with the progress being made, I've now logged over 50 hours labour on the beast.

It'll be well worth the effort to get it fully working.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20150812_125052_zpsmifrjsdo.jpg

 

I just picked up the 4 new MOSFET Transistors for the Horizontal Servo Motor Controller, I'll fit them shortly.

I also found these home security LED strobes in red and blue so I grabbed a pair of these. They light up when you have caught up to the bad guys car in the game.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One new MOSFET intalled and the fuse for the Horizontal Servo Motor is no longer blowing.

I removed the Vertical Servo Motor and the motor and brake tested okay.

I'm still waiting on the optos to arrive, hopefully they are causing the Stop Error.

I had a quick game and and tested the strobe light output, the lights start flashing when you catch up to the bad guy so thats another win.

Edited by Kaizen
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I picked up the new CD40107 chips this afternoon and replaced the two on the vertical motor driver board.

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/4da59320-6205-454a-af4b-f7d12d5996fc_zpslasbdjsd.jpg

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20150911_175057_zpshvtohnvq.jpg

 

Plugged it in an the fuse no longer blows and the motor runs at top speed in one direction, when you pass a piece of card through the top opto pickup the motor slows.

 

I can't run it with the drive belt connected until I get a new ball joint to connect the plywood body to the motion table.

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20150711_154551_zpsd8azykjp.jpg

 

I'll pick that up on Tuesday.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I had a visit from @Berty on the weekend which motivated me to get back to work on this project. I decided to blanket change all the IC's and surprisingly nearly all were avaliable fron Jaycar. So I go into the Jaycar store at Woolongabba and get served by the 'Assistant Store Manager'. I give him a list of the IC's I needed, eg. (4x4011 8x4049 etc) and he goes "These aren't our part numbers.." I say to him "No..those are the parts, you'll have to do your job and look up the part numbers." as he's looking them up he says "Hex buffer...whatever that is..." and this is the guy that is managing the store??

Anyways.. rant over.

So I carefully extracted all the IC's on the vertical driver board last night.

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20160301_070954_zpsmiz1z8lv.jpg

 

I soldered the new sockets in tonight and fitted the new IC's.

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20160303_222442_zps0ghjmewr.jpg

 

Then went downstairs and plugged the boads back in, switched it on (no smoke), and the vertical motor spins as part of the self test. Woohoo!!

One step closer, I'll do the horizontal driver board tomorrow and test that side of it.

It can't complete the self test without all the opto sensors which are on their 40 day journey from China (I knew I should have paid the $260 freight to get them here within a week). Hopefully I can get this behemoth up and running soon. :D

 

Edit: Still having issues...

Edited by Kaizen
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Possibly mutiple chips dead, i had no way of testing them and destroyed them in the removal process. As they were readily available I just wanted to replace them in order to know they were good.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

I found a spare Chase HQ PCB on Highway's website that has a DX top board with the extra chips for the motor drivers.

It was sold as not working and plugged it in and got a Ram error.

The original game board still works but its good just to have a spare board.

Edited by Kaizen
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

I last looked at this six months ago and have made little progress since.

I had limited tech gear and limited board repair skills.

A lot has changed in the last couple of months and I feel I have the necessary skills and equipment to bring this classic piece of history back to it's former glory.

 

Armed with my two new programmers I decided to dump the ROMs as the two unique DX ROMs haven't been dumped into MAME yet.

 

I spent the whole night (gave up around 3am) investigating each board, reading and verifying as many ROMs as I could and working out which goes where and with what set.

I have two DX boards with Japanese Audio, one that was a DX but was converted back to Upright (this is the one I bought in the post above).

The original PCB is a write off with severe track rot.

The other is an Upright PCB and has the English ROM set, it's in the best condition out of all of them.

I plan to get it fully working as a UP PCB with the chasehqj ROM set then swap the DX ROM and add the extra components once it's working correctly.

 

The DX PCB Label number is K9100187A.

 

The Upright Label is K1100375A.

 

All boards are exactly the same and have the same part number under the label.

The only differences I could find at this stage is that B52-128 at IC29 is not in either the English or Japanese MAME set and there is the addition of the four TTLs, three resistor arrays and a 50 pin ribbon cable connector.

The Motor Controller CPU board also has a ROM on it at IC18, I dumped it and will upload the files later.

 

I gathered the two Japanese ROM sets and fitted the to the two PCBs.

 

If I set Dipswitch A bits 1 & 2 on the game will try to check the motor controllers and CPU PCB (they've been left off for the moment).

 

This Eeprom went into the board with the 50 pin Ribbon Connector.

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170425_011135_zpsytya6hlw.jpg

 

 

One board was working when tested a month or two ago and it booted up and ran okay, a small glitch in the title screen where it says CHASE H.Q. but that can wait until later.

I plugged the other board in and got a red background and 'Color Ram Error'.

A quick google search suggested that the TMM2063's at [2] and [3] have been failing quite a lot and cause the 'Color Ram Error", thank you @Womble.

My original PCB from the cab had Fujitsu MB8464A-80L-SK chips in it, the board had severe track rot so I decided it will give it's life up and become a chip transplant donor. Dead

At least a part of it can still live on in the cab...

So I cleanly removed the chip at [2], fitted a socket and replaced it with one from the donor board.

It made no difference so I replaced the one at [22] and when I powered the board back up I got a mustard coloured background and the same 'Color Ram Error'.

I planned to replace all four rams with sockets anyway as they seem to fail quite a bit.

I socketed [3] and [23] and put another two donor Fujitsu rams in place.

The PCB now passed the Color Ram part of the self test but then came up with 'Could be MPU Ram' then booted into the game.

The colours are wrong in certain places, lines across the screen instead of characters, you can see the car and there are some blanking issues however it does coin up and run...

I swapped layers across and determined that the MPU Ram issue is on the top board and the blanking issue is related to the bottom board (just a guess using logic).

I've only just pulled the schematics out and have started to get familiar with it.

I found the pinout for the 50 pin ribbon connector which is a major step forward in working out what I should be getting between the Game PCB and Motor Controller CPU PCB.

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/50%20pin%20comm_zps5m0zf6eh.jpg

 

 

 

 

Can anyone school me on what I should be seeing from the different pins?

I'm guessing the pins M1-M19 are address and data lines, left side is all grounds except for M-A, that just leaves pins M20-M21-M22-M24.

Edited by Kaizen
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had a look at the 50 Pin Connector with the Logic Probe and tabled the results in the pic below.

The board was set to DX (DIP-A Bits 1 & 2 ON) and bit 3 ON for Self Test Mode.

The Motor Controller CPU PCB was not connected.

The 'DIP Switch Initial Error' was expected as the ribbon cable was disconnected.

I wanted to establish what the Game PCB was doing during self test first.

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/50%20pin%20comm%20-%20Copy_zpsldwefzpp.jpg

 

 

Here's a video of it running the Self Test with the settings above.

 

 

 

From the results I'm fairly confident that there are no issues on the outward communication between the Game PCB and Motor Controller PCB.

 

Next I have to work out the pinout for the Motor Controller CPU PCB and then test again with it connected.

Edited by Kaizen
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I removed all the opto's form the accelerator(3), brake (3), vertical axis position/tilt [T] (3) vertical axis speed (2), horizontal axis position/yaw [Y] (3), a total of 16 opto's are required.

 

I had three different types of opto interrupter, the factory ones are P1200, two 542N's I was given that I was told would work in the cab, then there's the stack of SX4009-P1 that I bought from RS Components which were supposed to cross reference.

 

I needed to confirm each opto's pinout was the same and that they were working correctly so I pulled a 4 pin CD ROM audio connector from an old PC and wired it up at a 4.5vDC battery pack and my logic probe.

I tied the two end wires together [V], connected them to B+ and assigned the black one [G] to ground and the yellow one [O] goes to the output (logic probe tip).

This gave me a pinout of V-G-O-V or if you flipped it you got V-O-G-V.

 

I can now easily plug in any configuration opto and test it.

Though the three different types I have look the same the are all different.

The original factory one will output high when the is no interruption and drop low when a card is passed through the sensors.

The N542's have a different pinout but work in the same manner.

I found with the SX4009-P1 the voltage dropped to a percentage of B+.

I doubled the input voltage to 9v and that doubled the output.

They won't work with the Chase HQ cab.

 

Testing of the P1200's

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170430_012618_zpsshh6jkq8.jpghttp://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170430_012731_zpspboedbce.jpg

 

 

Testing the N542's

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170430_012933_zpsyj5bt8nu.jpghttp://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170430_013021_zpsnsqgoxda.jpg

 

So after testing I end up with 15 usable tested and working opto's out of the 16 required.

There was one that had sustained impact damage and was giving no output when tested, I gave it a little twist and it gave an output so I decided to try to repair it rather than wait weeks for a replacement to come.

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170430_005935_zps6qxhjes1.jpg

 

 

There was at least two broken tracks and a possible third.

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170430_005735_zps8mzqbqvj.jpg

 

When you look at the top side of the PCB you can see it has been bent near the middle and came close to snapping.

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170430_005900_zps3kbfwz85.jpg

 

I removed some mask to expose the copper trace, laid a cut lead down from a trimmed component and soldered it over the break in the track.

The one near the resistor was fixed by building a solder bridge between it and a neighboring component on the same track.

Everything was reflowed and reassembled.

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170430_011709_zpsjuncuk8x.jpg

 

It tested fine so now I have 16 confirmed working opto's to go back in tomorrow.

Edited by Kaizen
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks mate, yeah I'm the same with pins.

I see some of these full restorations on Pinballs and the amount of detail that goes into them is amazing.

I reckon I've clocked up well over 100 hours on this thing so far.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks mate, yeah I'm the same with pins.

I see some of these full restorations on Pinballs and the amount of detail that goes into them is amazing.

I reckon I've clocked up well over 100 hours on this thing so far.

 

Well worth the time with these results

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another 50 hours on it this long weekend...

While I was staring the space where I'll finally house the game, I saw the big sheet of foam on the wall and it reminded me of a projector screen.

The cogs got turning and I mounted a Data Projector I had sitting around doing nothing and here's the result.

I'm thinking I can take the RGBSync signal from the board and run it though a adapter to VGA and have the game run on the wall through the projector as well.

 

 

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170501_215249_zpskwfigkjh.jpg

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170501_215131_zpseyceeixi.jpg

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170501_215353_zpswytvyn4s.jpg

 

 

When I was warming up the projector I had it sitting on the seat of the cab and it threw a wraparound image against the inside of the cab, pretty cool...

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170501_210721_zpsmj99lbaf.jpg

 

 

I've separated the pieces and laid the plywood section that the PCB's go in over a table frame that I can move around if needed.

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170501_094640_zpsaezzc71d.jpg

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170501_123731_zpsozx4yzmp.jpg

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170501_094722_zpshsi1qure.jpg

 

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/20170501_094747_zpstmbqewi3.jpg

 

 

I removed the black moving section on top as there's nothing needed on it to test the motion, it'll get stripped back and repainted before going back on.

 

The wiring is now all laid out so there is easy access to all connectors, motors and switches.

One of the biggest challenges I faced when testing was not being able to quickly move around the cab to take voltage, continuity and logic measurements etc.

 

I also added 250W of fluorescent lighting overhead so I could see what I'm doing.

Edited by Kaizen
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ow I love the projector idea. Now that is a car game. Movement, full sized picture , surround sound and proper controls and your set I think. Congratulations on sticking with this project and seeing it though. Well done mate.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

http://i1038.photobucket.com/albums/a462/Kaizen088/Chase%20HQ%20DX%20Motion/Top%20Speed%20DX%20Manual%20Covera_zpsy6expgui.jpg

 

A big thank you to the person who provided me with the manual for the Top Speed DX 20".

It's been scanned and backed up to multiple locations.

I need to reduce the size before uploading it to KLOV, link below.

The schematics for the motion are all there.

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0kAwpS2NEYzSTl3MktQVGU4anM

Edited by Kaizen
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...