Assembling a WPC089 MPU board from scratch

Fit all the chips and apply 5V to the power connector (12V is not required) - look at the 3 LEDs - after the board boots ( a couple of seconds) one LED will be flashing rapidly. That indicates the board has booted.

Testing the I/O is a lot more complicated but having a board that boots is a good start.

You can use solid wire for the 0 ohm links, they are just 'shorting links' nothing special.

This picture has saved my butt more times than I care to remember.

It is extremely useful when doing acid repairs but you may find it useful.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/e/e7/WPC-089MPULayout.jpg

The coloured numbers indicate the tracks. You match up the same number same colour and you should have continuity between the two.

This picture has saved my butt more times than I care to remember.

 

It is extremely useful when doing acid repairs but you may find it useful.

 

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/e/e7/WPC-089MPULayout.jpg

 

The coloured numbers indicate the tracks. You match up the same number same colour and you should have continuity between the two.

That is awesome. I'm going to print and laminate it on a3 and it will be going 'straight to the pool room'!

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That is awesome. I'm going to print and laminate it on a3 and it will be going 'straight to the pool room'!

Unfortunately I was never able to find an equivalent for any of the other WPC boards.

That drawing was made by Sascha Voskuil , "Zaza" on Pinside. He is helping with the Homepin pinball manual - his drawings are brilliant. Simple, clear and easy to understand.

Yes it was HomePin and if he is doing your manual I would suggest he colour codes it like he did with this picture. It just makes it so easy to do continuity testing and being a parts side view, enables you to check all the way back to the IC pin itself all from the top of the board.

It has helped me find quite a few dodgy socket pins, bad solder joints and broken traces usually caused by acid on this vintage board.

Could you ask him if he did the other variations of the WPC board in this drawing format?.

I figure they would be equally useful. While you can just use a normal diagram, this format of drawing is just so much faster for fault finding.

Yes it was HomePin and if he is doing your manual I would suggest he colour codes it like he did with this picture. It just makes it so easy to do continuity testing and being a parts side view, enables you to check all the way back to the IC pin itself all from the top of the board.

 

It has helped me find quite a few dodgy socket pins, bad solder joints and broken traces usually caused by acid on this vintage board.

 

Could you ask him if he did the other variations of the WPC board in this drawing format?.

 

I figure they would be equally useful. While you can just use a normal diagram, this format of drawing is just so much faster for fault finding.

I have pointed him to this thread so maybe he will chime in soon??

Nearly ready to fire up the board, can I power it from a 'workbench' adjustable power supply, with it set to 5v?

Still have to acquire some nvram and lock down which of the w1-w17 jumpers in need to connect.

Nearly ready to fire up the board, can I power it from a 'workbench' adjustable power supply, with it set to 5v?

Yep

I'm assuming that 5v has to be applied to both pins 4 and 5 of j210 for the board to boot properly?

I applied +5v to each of those pins one at a time and D19 and D21 both lit up and stayed lit. When I used pin 5 d20 did briefly (fraction of a sec) flick on.

Hello from the Netherlands, this zaza / Sascha here. Glad this picture helped some people over here as well.

The latest version of this picture has more information on data and address locations, as well as jumper settings.

ok, maybe the ram and jumper configuration is not correct? the ram chip I have is a 62256 and I have r93 populated and I have not closed w3. Also w11 to w18 are open.

when the 62256 RAM is used, R93 must be removed and W3 must be installed.

no need to use W11 and W12 , W14-W18 is to setup country code.

Hello from the Netherlands, this zaza / Sascha here. Glad this picture helped some people over here as well.

The latest version of this picture has more information on data and address locations, as well as jumper settings.

 

 

 

 

when the 62256 RAM is used, R93 must be removed and W3 must be installed.

 

no need to use W11 and W12 , W14-W18 is to setup country code.

Thank you for posting that. Are you willing to upload the latest version of the complete drawing for us to use please?

Thank you for posting that. Are you willing to upload the latest version of the complete drawing for us to use please?

I will ask pinwiki to update it to the latest version so everyone has access to the picture,

Looks like the picture is exceeding the limits for me to post here with these dimensions/ file size

Thanks again to all who helped me with this project, I ended up building 2 boards, one I will keep as a 'hot spare' in case my TAF blows up, the other I might sell, once I know it works 100%. I ordered some NVRAM ram today so will wait until that arrives before testing the boards further.

Also I have ended up with quite a few spare components, 8 way DIP switches, 32 way ic sockets, headers and some of the IC's so should anybody need a part for this board please let me know, If I have one spare I will be happy to send it to you.

I am looking for another project, is it worth building the Power driver board?

Received the nvram this week and have installed it into both boards, its 6264 ram so I have left R93 in and left w3 unpopulated. Unfortunately both boards will not boot, on each board D19 and D21 light up and remain lit. Anybody have any ideas where I should start looking for the issue that is causing the boards not to boot?

Also with regard to the 4.7k 10pin resister array, does polarity matter? Does is matter which way I have installed it?

Received the nvram this week and have installed it into both boards, its 6264 ram so I have left R93 in and left w3 unpopulated. Unfortunately both boards will not boot, on each board D19 and D21 light up and remain lit. Anybody have any ideas where I should start looking for the issue that is causing the boards not to boot?

 

Also with regard to the 4.7k 10pin resister array, does polarity matter? Does is matter which way I have installed it?

From memory the PCB has the tracks for pin one at both ends so it doesn't matter which way around - just check the tracks and see if the outside two pins are connected together.

Received the nvram this week and have installed it into both boards, its 6264 ram so I have left R93 in and left w3 unpopulated. Unfortunately both boards will not boot, on each board D19 and D21 light up and remain lit. Anybody have any ideas where I should start looking for the issue that is causing the boards not to boot?

 

Also with regard to the 4.7k 10pin resister array, does polarity matter? Does is matter which way I have installed it?

go here

https://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/board-rework-test/231-testing-wpc-cpu-on-the-bench

Check Blanking problems

From memory the PCB has the tracks for pin one at both ends so it doesn't matter which way around - just check the tracks and see if the outside two pins are connected together.

Spot on Homepin, there is a track that connects the outta pins, once again thanks!