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Assembling a WPC089 MPU board from scratch


Sabot68

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HI all,

I have set myself the task of building up a WPC089 MPU board, partly as a project and to have a spare MPU board for my Addams Family pin.

While I have a basic understanding of electronic components (eg I can tell a diode from a resistor etc) and I am reasonably handy with a soldering iron (surface mount stuff still scares the carp outta me) this is by far the biggest project I have taken on.

 

I received the bare board today and have assembled 95% of the components.

My first question is... there are a bunch of pin outs labelled 'W' 1 through 9, on my bill of components these are described as 0 ohm jumpers, can I use the discarded legs of resistors for this or should the jumper be insulated wire?

 

I suspect I will have may other questions as I go along so I ask for your help and patience....

 

Andrew

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HI all,

 

My first question is... there are a bunch of pin outs labelled 'W' 1 through 9, on my bill of components these are described as 0 ohm jumpers, can I use the discarded legs of resistors for this or should the jumper be insulated wire?

 

Andrew

 

You can actually buy 0 0hm resistors.

http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/through-hole-fixed-resistors/0188374/

That's what was originally used, but wire links would be ok.

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Thanks Again for all the help so far..

Couple more issues I have.

I have soldered all the resistors from the list of components on to the board, R76, R81, R99 are left empty.

Also how can I tell which way the 3 reds leds are mounted, I know the long leg of the led is the positive but there is no polarity marking printed on the board. There is a trace on the board that is common to all three of the led holes so I assume the that is negative? (hole closest to the edge of the board?)

 

and how to I mod the board to take a CR2450 battery and holder?

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Thanks Again for all the help so far..

Couple more issues I have.

I have soldered all the resistors from the list of components on to the board, R76, R81, R99 are left empty.

Also how can I tell which way the 3 reds leds are mounted, I know the long leg of the led is the positive but there is no polarity marking printed on the board. There is a trace on the board that is common to all three of the led holes so I assume the that is negative? (hole closest to the edge of the board?)

 

and how to I mod the board to take a CR2450 battery and holder?

 

What board are you building? A genuine one?

 

The LEDs should have a flat on one side of the printed legend that indicates direction.

 

Look at the schematic for the values of those resistors. I don't have it in front of me so I can't look at the moment.

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Have a careful look at the very base of the led, there should be a flat section. The actual light emitting section is not flat sided, just the very base section.

 

Definitely do not have a flat side around the base. I have look under my magnifying glass, completely round, they are 3mm red leds from RS components

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Interesting. I have never seen a led without a flat side. Anyway the long lead is the anode. The silkscreen on the board shows a flat side that's the cathode. The data sheets on the RS website will also show you.
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Hold the LED up to the light and look through it. The leg with the largest amount of metal attached to it inside the plastic body is the Anode and goes towards ground. It's usually the lowest part closest to the base when looking inside.

 

You can also use a 9V battery and a 1K series resistor to confirm it is correct.

 

A CR2032, 3V lithum cell can also be used to test LEDs without the need for a series resistor. Just whack the LED legs across the battery - easy peasy.

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Thanks I have soldered the leds on to the board.

 

Next question, any down side to socketing all of the IC's on the board? Apart from maybe having to re-seat them very occasionally?

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Nice,

I'm waiting for most of the headers to come back in stock. Where did you source the dip switch block (or whatever its called).

Also the only 22pf caps I could find on RS components web site are 6kv is that ok?

Also having trouble sourcing the asic socket.

 

Here are a couple of pics of my build:

1251498391_mpuboard.jpg.6e8d4690b0864dc09f66dae312ca56c1.jpg1522704517_mpucap.jpg.d86f79f5629e4f18558188c17d7d3853.jpg515524088_mpuled.jpg.7e8b0273b723eec598433bb6d988e8be.jpg

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Nice,

I'm waiting for most of the headers to come back in stock. Where did you source the dip switch block (or whatever its called).

 

Shame on me Jaycar.

 

Also the only 22pf caps I could find on RS components web site are 6kv is that ok?

 

RS http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/ceramic-multilayer-capacitors/8523324/

 

Also having trouble sourcing the asic socket.

 

RS http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/plcc-sockets/6742555/

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

just google search and theres pages of them ??

 

example http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/socket-84-pin-plcc/

You can get 5 deliverd from RS for less than the price of 1 from Mr Pinball

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Nearing the end of the build. I have soured the 8 way dip block, dom I need to run any jumpers to the through holes marked w11 to 18, or do I just solder in the component? Any advice on the correct settings for this and the other through holes marked W would be greatly appreciated. Homepin mentioned then have something to do with ROM and sram choice. I will probably mount a NVRAM in this board.

 

Also do I have to solder in any of the battery connecting holes?

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Ignore the battery mounting holes.

 

Solder the switch in place of the jumpers (they become "switchable jumpers" then). Leave them all set to "OFF" as that is the default for English language.

 

In a couple of games these are also game setting adjustments but not many.

 

The other W jumpers will depend on what RAM and ROM you use and this will probably change depending on the game you will eventually use the board in.

 

Here is a closeup of the area on one of our Homepin boards (exactly the same layout and placement as the original) showing the W jumpers that we fit. Your mileage might vary.

 

1820507984_QQPhoto20170527120408.thumb.jpg.7b09268161d5fae4a0178fce2041cec6.jpg

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Should set them to Australian Export or you might get "Don't do Drugs" or "Don't get Aids" type messages.

 

To get rid of the "Don't do drugs" message on a Williams Indiana Jones.

 

CPU board dip switch settings need to be 1 OFF, 2 OFF, 3 ON, 4 ON, 5 OFF, 6 ON, 7 OFF, 8 ON.

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Board nearly complete, just waiting on the 32 way IC socket and a couple of caps and the 0 ohm jumpers.

 

Next question is how do I go about testing it before I put it in my machine, what should a look at/meter so I donlt blow up my TAF but also can test the board so I know I have a working spare?

 

1234547349_mpunearlycomplete.thumb.jpg.46f5f0d1fb09d7cfd75b02ff43afe11e.jpg

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